At the end of my visitation to Msheireb Museum, I explored with a middle-aged man from France. I slowly lead him into room after room.
Radwani House was an original depiction of a typical Qatari house built in the 1920s on the border of Qatar’s oldest districts namely Al-Jassra and Msheireb. This house was bought by Ali Akbar Radwani on December 5, 1936 and lived with his family for more than 70 years.
The Radwani House has been enlarged and remodeled from the original building over time and was one of the most important historical buildings in Doha. This house showed the extraordinary history of Qatari life and lifestyle and illustrated the adaptation to vast societal changes in Qatar during the twentieth century.
Special research on Radwani House was carried out in the winter of 2012-2013 by a team of archaeologists from University College London Qatar. This was the first archaeological investigation conducted in the whole of Qatar.
The discovery of other foundations in this building indicated that this house had undergone many renovations throughout its life, it seemed that a well was found which, if you looked at the initial layout of the house, this well was located outside the main building, precisely in a narrow alley.
It was also known that this house originally consisted of two buildings, which after these two parts were purchased by the same owner, the two parts were combined. Both ends of the alley were closed so as to produce a wider house shape.
Old house foundation.
Well and bath.
Excavations at Radwani House uncovered several objects that provided clues to daily life in this house. Found incense burners from 1920-1930, a series of discarded pearl shells that were the result of collecting sea shells at low tide, coffee cups, glasses, jewellery, clothing and toys.
Sherbah, a long-necked clay jug that served as a drinking place.
Pearl shell.
Coffee cup.
Radwani House was renovated in the early 1940s to produce the house you see today:
The current form of Radwani House.
Front door.
Terrace.
Majlis – typical Qatari home page -.
Even though the yard looked spacious, Ridwani House still showed a concern for privacy. The outside of the house looked windowless. The window was only on the wall facing the courtyard. Meanwhile, the courtyard itself was surrounded by houses on all sides.
Meanwhile, the part of the main gate which would lead people to the courtyard must first turned 90 degrees to ensure that the courtyard was not visible to outsiders.
The arrangement of the Radwani House rooms also showed its own peculiarities. There were rooms which function very specifically liked kitchens and warehouses. Some of them were built as functional spaces.
Living room.
Bedroom.
Family lounge.
Guest lounge.
Kitchen.
Room furniture.
This was the last destination during my visitation in Qatar. Then of course, I had to immediately leave Qatar.
The second part of Msheireb Museum is Bin Jelmood House.
Who is Bin Jelmood?….He was a famous slave trader in Doha during the slavery era. He was often known as “The Rock”, referring to his convictions and stubbornness at the time.
This edition is more serious than Company House edition, friends….Be prepared to read more solemnly.
Come on, let’s got in!….It was hot outside, you know.
At the beginning of Bin Jelmood House exploration, I entered an audio-visual room which narrated the time of slave trading from Africa to Europe.
The shape of an ancient Doha house, the courtyard was in the middle.
It was told…Europe in the Middle Ages where slavery was supported by a social system called SERFDOM.
At that time, slaves wore special accessories in the form of bracelets called Manilla and it was a historical fact that one of four Athenians would become slaves and worked in the olive fields. In another part of the world, Syria, there were slavery contracts between the buyers and sellers of slaves.
“The Indian Ocean World” Sessiom.
Civilizations in Africa and Asia, especially India, Middle East, and Sriwijaya (Indonesia) developed through the Indian Ocean.
In the maritime history of Indian Ocean, goods and slaves were traded between countries in Africa and the Gulf region. Meanwhile, between India and East Asia, goods and slaves were traded via the Silk Road (this route had two routes, land and sea). One of the pictures in the museum showed the export of oxen (oxen) from Madagascar to Mauritius.
Events in the eastern hemisphere were also depicted in black and white photographs, namely the activities of Dutch East Indies on the spices export at Jakarta Port in 1682, while in India, trading ships carried opium from Calcutta to China.
“Slavery in The Indian Ocean World ”Session
The legendary slave story was here.
Slavery was very prevalent in the pre-Islamic period, where slaves from Egypt, the Eastern Mediterranean and Africa were sold to Mecca and Baghdad which were the main slave markets in the Middle East. One of stories was about a famous slave named Antarah bin Shaddad Al-Absi who was born by an Ethiopian slave with father who be a Bani Abas leader. Then the story of Abdullah Ibn Abi Quhafa (Abu Bakr Ash-Shidiq) who became an important figure in the history of slave liberation, one of the famous slaves freed by him was Bilal bin Rabah Al-Habashi. Then Islam came down in Middle East and forbade slavery between human beings.
Some of the methods of slavery around Indian Ocean were through war, punishment for crimes, invasions, kidnapping, selling family members and debt bondage.
“Slaves’Status in The Indian Ocean World”Session
Among the upper classes, slavery indicated the master’s level of influence and wealth.
During the Abassid Empire (Abasiy), the Mamluk Army (Mamluk Army) was formed from slaves of Balkans, Caucasus and Europe. This army was very famous during the rule of Ayyubid dynasty in Egypt in the 12th century. There was also the Janissaries Troop formed by the Ottoman Empire in Turkey consisting of youth from Christian families who were trained in religious and military principles.
In the mid-19th century, clove plantations were highly developed in East Africa. This resulted in the enslavement of 1.6 million people there. In this section, the museum displayed a sword belonging to a Zanzibar slave at that time.
There was also a story about Tippu Ti (Hamed bin Muhammed Al-Murjebi), the owner of seven clove plantations and 10,000 slaves. This businessman from Swahili-Zanzibari Ivory captured and sold slaves on the orders of King Leopold of Belgium who was the authority on Congo.
Another heart-wrenching story was about the Persian King Bahram Gur who stepped on his favorite slave girl named Azada from a horse, simply because she did not value his hunting abilities. In ancient times slaves would only be guaranteed their life if they were integrated into their master’s family, this could be done if slaves were able to communicate in thir master’s language and were willing to embrace their master’s religion.
Five Rooms Describing Slavery in Qatar.
Illustration of slave activity at Bin Jelmood House in the past.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Qatar’s population was only 27,000 and the fact was that one in six of its citizens was a slave. The ownership of slaves was a guarantee for pearl exporting businessmen as well as importers, that their goods would be safe in the harsh desert voyages and treacherous sea voyages.
Qatar was still quiet at that time.
In 1868, Sheikh Mohammed bin Thani signed a protection treaty from British Government. Meanwhile in 1872, the Ottoman Empire established a military garrison in Doha until the end of World War I. After their departure in 1916, the British began to exert influence in Qatar through their base in Bahrain.
In the 18th century, Qatar had a positive impact on global economic developments. Mainly because of the increasing world demand for pearls. In order to increase the pearl catch, there was slavery of workers in the pearl catching industry in Qatar.
In the early 19th century, as many as 2,000-3,000 slaves were sent to Middle East, especially Oman, to be traded.
Meanwhile, at the end of the 19th century, slaves were employed in Qatar, taken from East Africa and the Red Sea, thousands more were imported from Zanzibar, slaves were brought by Dhow Boat across the Indian Ocean to Qatar. At the beginning of the 20th century, because of the opposition to slavery in East Africa, slaves began to be taken from Baluchistan.
The slave population in Qatar continued to be maintained by their masters by marrying their fellow slaves which of course would give birth to children as slaves as well.
The effects of the increased capture of slaves in Africa were disturbing to general community in the region. This was what causes endless wars in Africa.
At the time of slaves capturing, slaves would be chained and walked from Mozambique, Congo, Malawi and Zambia as far as 1,000 miles to Kilwa coast in Tanzania, sometimes before reaching the shore, they would be killed by the robbers, then slaves who survived then for weeks even months would sail for sale to Middle East and Yemen.
Illustration of slave abduction in Africa.
In Zanzibar’s slave market, female slaves would be dressed in fine clothes and jewelry so that they were sold at a high price. Buyers would usually check their physical health and beauty before buying them. Even slaves would be given new names such as Faida (profit), Baraka (blessing) and Mubaroka (blessed). To illustrate nominally, in 1926, a 24-year-old male slave diver in Qatar could be purchased for 1,210 Rupees.
Slaves in Doha and Al Wakra, some of whom lived together with their masters, ate the same food and wore the same clothes. Some of them separately live next to the house provided by the employer.
In daily life, slave girls would work to prepare food and took care of the children. While male slaves after the pearl shell hunting season was over, would work looking for firewood, breaking stones, transporting water, and being security guards for city officials.
Then there was social acculturation, slaves who initially were the majority of non-Muslims accepted the presence of Islam in their lives, then they embraced it. Likewise, the children of slaves will automatically become Muslims because of the religion of their parents.
Illustration of a slave with their daily work.
But their origin culture remain attached and could not be abandoned. Slaves from West Africa, Ethiopia, Sudan, Somalia, Egypt, Tunisia and Morocco often performed the Zar Ritual when their master was asleep at night. This Zar ritual was considered to be able to give spirit and enthusiasm to get physical and mental health.
Over time, it turned out that the demand for slaves increased throughout Qatar when the pearl industry became booming and was needed by the world.
In practice, slave pearl divers would work from dawn to sunset. A small basket would be draped around their neck to store about 8-10 oysters they picked up from seabed. They would dive with an average time of 90 minutes and could dive up to 50 times per day.
Pearl diver’s slave.
Year after year, Qatar’s economic uncertainty caused its population to decrease from 27,000 to 16,000 and only 4,000 of them were still interested in working in pearl industry. Slaves began to be sent to oil fields to work and their wages would be shared with their masters.
“The Richness of Diversity”Session
Diversity in Qatar today.
The migration of slaves over hundreds years in Qatar contributed to the formation of Qatari culture in terms of cuisine, music and language. Qatar people then know Indian Biryani, Levantine Mansaf, Spanish Paella, and Balaleet. Other cultures which developed include playing Mancala and decorating the body with Qatari Henna.
Qatar had long been the meeting point of people migration who carried their respective cultures because it was located at the crossroads of Indian Ocean trade routes. In fact, many people who initially only stopped by ended up settling in Qatar.
“Knowing Our Ancestors”Session
From fossil and archaeological studies, it was known that the ancestors of Qatari people came from Africa.
Included in this session were the subject of DNA and its inheritance, the anatomy taught by Avicenna, the human genome and the reading of DNA sequences that could help humans to treat certain diseases based on this information.
That genes also affected blood type, hair and eye color. In some studies it was said that genes would make humans become super tasters (tasting something bitter than normal people) and non-tasters (not sensitive to taste).
Back to slavery…
In the late 19th century, Britain began to initiate the reduction of slavery in Middle East. They often rescued slave ships and brought them to British territory. This was because, since the end of the 18th century, the people of Western Europe through their parliaments cast the opinion on the abolition of slavery.
The early days of the struggle to abolish slavery.
There was the right moment when British signed the Qatar protection agreement on November 3, 1916. This was used by British to ask Sheikh Abdullah Bin Jassim Al-Thani to stop the practice of slavery in Qatar as a condition. But Qataris objected to this abolition.
The success of slavery abolition was only effective when Qatar succeeded in exporting its oil abroad. With the profits from oil trading, Qatari government was able to pay compensation money to slave owners to free their respective slaves. And finally, in April 1952, the practice of slavery was officially banned in all of Qatar.
After the ban, many slaves were granted Qatari citizenship by the Emir and many of them were accepted to work with full salaries in Qatar’s oil companies.
“Qatar, a Pioneer in Personalized Healthcare”Session
Health achievements in Qatar.
Qatar was a country which was committed to genetic research and was a pioneer in personalized medicine, which was a management of patient care in the medicine world based on patient genotype information, so that an evaluation could be carried out to determine an appropriate treatment for disease type which patient were suffering from.
Qatar was making progress by establishing Qatar Biobank, a place to store health information and biological samples from its citizens. This biobank was very helpful in the Qatar Genome Program launched by the government. This program was funded by Qatar Foundation through Qatar National Research Fund and was also funded by the Ministry of Health.
Qatar was also home to research centers such as Qatar Biomedical Research Institute at Hamad bin Khalifa University, Qatar University Biomedical Research Center and Weill Cornell Medicine.
Qatar also had a National Diabetes Center, a National Premarital Screening and Counseling Program, and a Qatar Newborn Screening Program.
“Modern Slavery”Session
Example of Modern Slavery.
You need to know that around 27 million people have become victims of modern slavery around the world. This type of slavery was caused by rampant human trafficking.
Some surprising facts include:
2.5 million people were in forced labour, including sexual exploitation.
Human trafficking was the most profitable international crime, along with drugs and arms trafficking.
Profits from human trafficking per year reached 31.6 billion US Dollars.
The majority of human trafficking victims were 18-24 years old.
1.2 million children were trafficked every year.
From 190 countries in the world, 161 countries have a role in this human trafficking. Either as a source, destination or as a transit country.
Political and humanitarian crises often place vulnerable groups (women and children) from less developed areas in human trafficking risk.
Many children in the 1990s were employed in factories, fishing boats, mining, agricultural land and underage women were employed in sexual industry. They work more than normal hours, sometimes without pay, living only with minimal food and minimal housing.
“Organizations”Session
Qatar struggles to abolish slavery in the modern era.
Then many organizations have sprung up in the world which were moving to end human trafficking, they hold meetings with governments in countries which still have modern slavery practices, they meet labor agencies around the world to work together to fight the practice of modern slavery.
Qatari House for Lodging and Human Care was one of many organizations which protected human trafficking victims. This organization provided health services, psychiatric consultation, legal assistance, rehabilitation, as well as cooking and sewing courses.
Qatar was the first and largest financier in UN Global Action Plan to Combat Human Trafficking. Qatar as also funding The Arab Initiative for Capacity Building in Combating Human Trafficking which was a collaboration between UNODC and the Arab League.
Finally…. I couldn’t believe I was at the end of this session at Bin Jelmood House. I took the time to entering the toilet, took pictures of the lobby and courtyard, then thanked all the staff at reception desk when I was about to leave the museum.
I left Doha Sports City just before sunset. Exit from Villaggio Mall, went to Al Aziziyah Station, which was only 100 meters from door number four of this famous shopping mall.
At the station entrance…..there was a slight conversation between me and a traveler.
“Hello, do you want to go with the metro?”, said the curly youth, white skin and a typical Arab face but a little shorter than me.
“Yes, brother,” I said briefly.
“Use this ticket!, I will go back with the bus, You can use it”, he handed me the ticket.
“Oh, No, thanks. I will buy a single journey ticket at downstair”, I politely refused because I had a wrong guess, I thought he was selling his ticket to me. I knew it was a Standard Day Pass ticket for 4 Rial.
“Brother, just take it. I don’t need more because I will use the bus”, He seemed to hurry and slipped the ticket into my right hand.
Oh my God….Turned out he gave it away for free. “Thank you very much, brother”, I briefly said.
“I’m Donny from Indonesia, what is your name, brother?”, I asked before separating.
“Said from Algeria …”, he smiled as he adjusted his green backpack and then hurriedly left me.
“Thank you, Said”, I started down the escalator to Doha Metro platform.
Pursuing the MRT, which was ready to going, a Filipino officer ordered me to entering the metro via luxurious Goldclub class wagon and then moved to the Standard class wagon behind it. Wow….. the Goldclub wagon offered a luxurious single seat like an airplane business seat, armrest seats which were separated from each other in a long line facing each other. Sitting in a standard wagon, I was taken along Gold Line to Souq Waqif Station, which was quite close to Al Ghanim Bus Station. I would take Karwa Bus number 12 to hotel.
I still remembered a message from a hotel staff from Islamabad that tonight they invited me to cook together and ate their country’s signature dish, namely Pakistani White Pulao-a rice dish mixed with chopped carrots, vegetables and beans-.
After taking a bath, it was true, they went into my room to hijack me and were taken to kitchen to join a impromptu chefs of Casper Hotel.
Pakistani White Pulao…..Yummm.
—-****—-
The fourth dawn I felt in Qatar. I was a little lazy because fatigue and boredom became my new enemy. Towards ten in the morning, I started leaving for Al Ghanim Bus Station. Initially planned to head to Islamic Museum of Art. Oh, but….As soon as I arrived at the terminal, I thought again. My wallet stopped my intentions, it led me to find free destinations to save my budget.
Trying to surf in internet by sitting relaxed in the terminal, I finally knew where I must to go. Msheireb….Yes, Msheireb!
There was Msheireb Museum which was open for free to tourists there. I thought further….After visiting the museum, I was able to explore Msheireb Downtown Doha to see the concept of this planned city.
You needed to know….MDD (Msheireb Downtown Doha) was a replacement city for Mushayrib District whose development was planned in great detail.
I wandered along Ali Bin Abdullah Street, past the Gold Souq -a building with ten curved glass windows, a center for buying and selling gold-, passed the cash office of Qatar National Bank (QNB) Souq Waqif and then turned right at an intersection.
Gold Souq.
Before actually arriving at Msheireb Museum, my steps were stopped under an iconic building, which I myself understood from its shape that it was a defensive building or a fort. Later, I came to know it as Al Kort Fort.
Also known as Doha Fort, this 140 year old building was built during the Ottoman Empire as a police station. Thirty-five years from its founding, this fort was turned into a prison at the end of the reign of the Ottoman Empire.
Then history changed again when Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani, the third Emir of Qatar, rebuilt this fort as crime rates soared around Souq Waqif. It was said that a group of famous thieves appeared in the market area. So this fort became the security center of Souq Waqif at that time. In accordance with the characteristics of a desert fort, the building was square in shape with a rectangular tower at a corner and three round towers at the other three corners.
Unfortunately, this fort was still under renovation so I couldn’t get into it. But that was okay, because I could quickly visit the Msheireb Museum.
Do you want to know what the Msheireb Museum is like?…. It was a long story, you knew…. Be prepared to read with patience!
Maybe, a person who was influencing me to go to Qatar was Valentino Rossi. Yes….The living legend of premium iron horse racing had indirectly influenced me to visit Losail International Circuit through television screen for a long time. During the years of watching MotoGP that too, the intention to visiting Qatar began to disturb my sleep at night.
That dream had became a beautiful reality when for five days I was able to explore Qatar in early 2020. Now is the time for me to tell you about its beauty. Here are a few of the memories which I got in the country which rich in “black gold”:
1. Hamad International Airport
It can be said that Hamad International Airport (HIA) is a perfector to Qatar’s tourism gateway. Since seven years ago, HIA had succeeded in replacing the role of Doha International Airport. You need to know that naming of this airport is taken from the name of Emir of Qatar, Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani.
That sunny morning, I agreed with the splendor of this airport which was located on the shores of Persian Gulf. This is the airport which holds an asset of “Yellow Bear” worth 6.7 million US Dollar…Wowww.
2. Karwa Bus
As a person who adhered to backpacker ethic codes, I was only faced with two choices to get to downtown…..Train or bus?. That time, bus was my first choice.
Haven’t seen and boarded it yet, I already imagined that I would ride a modern-looking city bus when I left the airport.
Doha city buses are known as Karwa Buses and require a KARWA Smart Card to ride them. All Doha city buses are operated by the state transport company “Mowasalat”. The average one-way fare is also very affordable, which is around 2.5 Qatari Riyal.
3.Al Ghanim Bus Station
After checking in at Casper Hotel and putting all my equipments down, I started exploring Doha. The first place which I traced was Al Ghanim Bus Station as final destination for Karwa Bus number 12 which picked me up from hotel.
Located in Municipality Ad Dawhah, Al Ghanim Bus Station is an important landmark. This bus terminal certainly covers most of Karwa Bus routes in Qatar. Al Ghanim Bus Station takes on the role of a central terminal in Qatar as well as being the headquarters of Mowasalat. If you intend to explore Qatar tourism by bus, surely you will often visit this terminal.
4.Abdul Aziz Nasser Theater
This is a performance space for multidisciplinary arts which supports local and international artists. Located in Doha downtown with a capacity of almost a thousand seats. Even to facilitate the implementation of large events, this theater is directly connected to Al Mirqab Hotel which is located right on its west side.
5.Al Fanar Mosque
I visited this mosque after exploring Al Ghanim Bus Station. The location is only a kilometer in north of terminal. Al Fanar is a Qatar Islamic Cultural Center better known as Al Sheikh Abdullah Bin Zaid Al-Mahmood Islamic Cultural Center. Apart from introducing Qatari culture through Islam, the Fanar Cultural Center also organizes social and educational activities.
6.Souq Faleh
Souq Faleh and Al Fanar Masque are only separated by Al Tarbiya Street. It’s one of many old markets in Doha. If you are an Abaya lover, then this market is right place to hunt it, because the price which is offered is relatively cheaper than other markets.
7.Domes Mosque
While I was busy in visiting Souq Faleh, suddenly I heared the call to Dzuhur prayer. It seemed that I should end my exploration for a moment and heading to an old mosque in southeast. This mosque with many domes and pillars still proudly stands in the middle of modern city. The Dzuhur prayer was filled with worshipers who came from all over. And it was my first congregational prayer in Doha.
8.City Souq
Adjacent to Al Fanar Mosque in east, right at a corner of the intersection of Al Tarbiya Street and Al Bareed Street, is a modern shopping mall with a seven-story which then looks to dwarf the Central Municipal Center building in opposite. I entered it just to hunt for a fridge magnet and then took some photos of situation inside.
Known as City Souq, this mall provides clothes, garments, shoes, perfumes, children’s toys, stationery, blankets and abayas. Practice haggling before shopping at this place !.
9.Souq Waqif
More than two centuries old, doesn’t make Souq Waqif change its architectural form. Being the only ancient traditional market in all of Qatar.
Waqif means standing. Because during pioneering period, not a single stall was built. This was due to overflow of sea water from Doha coast which inundated market. Even at the beginning, buyers would come by boat or ride camels to get around inundation and sellers would stand around all day offering their goods.
10.The Pearl Monument
Leaving Souq Waqif for a moment for me to revisit on next day, I targeted The Pearl Monument at across of Al Corniche Street which provided underground crossing facility under it. I think, not only travelers, even all Qatari citizens should be obliged to visit this monument which in the form of gaping pearl shells. Through this monument, all visitors should know that prior to 1939, era before oil discovery in their earth belly, Qatar was a poor country whose income which was depended on catching pearl shells in Persian Gulf.
11.Corniche Promenade
Visiting The Pearl Monument made me happy beyond measure, in addition to exploring Qatar history, my eyes were spoiled by beautiful view of Doha Corniche. The seven-kilometer long promenade reveals the arch of Doha Bay which was crammed with skyscrapers at the end. Meanwhile, distribution of traditional dhow boats which are quietly anchored along the bay becomes a natural interior which makes situation more charming.
12.Museum of Islamic Art
Right at the eastern end of Doha Corniche, there is building which is erected like floating on the shores of sea. It’s the Museum of Islamic Art which exhibits the richness of Islamic culture from three continents which is more than 1,400 years old. This is Qatar’s flagship museum which is founded by the sister of their Emir, H. E Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. The existence of this museum has ordained Qatar as the cultural capital of Middle East region.
13.MIA Park
MIA in this park name stands for Museum of Islamic Art. As name implies, before visiting it, everyone can be sure to understand that this park is located right in front of Museum of Islamic Art. The park is often be the official state venue for national holiday celebrations, besides that, this park is often used as a venue for musical performances, bazaar activities or other regular concerts. Meanwhile, specifically on Tuesdays and starting at 17:00 hours, this park becomes a special public area for women who are usually led by personal trainers in cardio and fitness training.
14. Doha Hop On Hop Off Bus
For those of you who don’t want to bother exploring Doha. Qatar Tourism provides Hop On-Hop Off Sightseeing Tour. So you just sit down from the top of this bus and will be delivered to several tourist destinations in Doha. This bus spans thirty minutes in operation. Passing through Qatar’s main tourist destinations, namely Souq Waqif, Katara Cultural Village, The Pearl Qatar and the Museum of Islamic Art. To pamper travelers, this bus also stops at Marriott Hotel, Sharq Village and Spa, Sheraton and Hilton Hotel.
15. West Bay
Day Two….The air was very windy and cold of course. Boarding Karwa Bus number 12 and continuing with number 64, I headed for West Bay. The skyscraper complex seemed to be waving at me when I looked at it from the other side of Doha Corniche yesterday afternoon.
Now I was right in the middle of this business area on east coast of Doha. An area that covers three districts at once, namely Al Qassar, Al Dafna and West Bay Lagoon. Finally up close, I could enjoy the Burj Doha, the most iconic building in Qatar.
16.City Center Doha
Tracing every inch in Wes Bay streets, I came to one of the oldest shopping malls in Qatar. City Center Doha which is located in the business center but is targeted to serve customers from the middle economy class. Located right in the middle of West Bay area, this shopping mall is directly connected to three luxury hotels, namely Shangri La Hotel, Rotana Hotel and Merweb Hotel.
17. Doha Metro
For the first time I ride Doha Metro. Qatar’s newest mass transportation system which has been in operation since last year. The three-line MRT (Red Line, Green Line and Gold Line) owned by Hamad Group is ordained as the fastest driverless train in the world with a cruising speed of 100 km/hour.
This time, I enjoyed its luxurious facilities from DECC Station (Doha Exhibition & Convention Center) in Wet Bay to Katara Station which is the access to visit Katara Cultural Village.
18.Katara Cultural Village
Doha Metro dropped me off at Katara station. It only took a half kilometer walk to reach Katara Cultural Village, a cultural center in Qatar. Located on east coast between West Bay and The Pearl, this cultural village dates back ten years.
Katara itself was the name for Qatar before 18th century. The word “Catara” in the first century AD was pinned to naming Qatar Peninsula which is located in south of Persian Gulf.
19.Aspire Park
My third day of exploration in Qatar I started a little bit late. Waiting for the sun to rise, because I would play in an open area, namely Aspire Park. The name of this park is taken from the name of an area, namely Aspire Zone which is the well-known name of Doha Sports City in Baaya District.
Karwa Bus number 301 dropped me off at Villaggio Shelter Bus at exactly 11:44 am. I walked to the park which is located in the west of Qatar. Aspire Park is a beautiful and spacious park which is equipped with a playground, fountains, several coffee shops and even the only artificial lake in Qatar.
20.The Torch Doha
Still in Aspire Zone Complex, stepping a little to east, I was right under a 300 meter high hotel. Often referred to as Aspire Tower, although its official name is The Torch Doha.
The work of an architectural consultant from France, this building is currently the tallest building in Doha. This 36-floors hotel has contributed to Qatar as a focal point for the 15th Asian Games.
21.Khalifa International Stadium
Khalifa International Stadium is right next to The Torch Doha. Often called by the name National Stadium. Like their magnificent airport, this football arena also bears name of the Emir of Qatar Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. This is the official home of Qatar national football team with forty thousand seating capacity.
Owned by Qatar Football Association, this stadium was the witness where Australia was overthrown by “the blue samurai squad” with Tadanari Lee’s only goal in the 2011 AFC Asian Cup final.
22.Villaggio Mall
My visit to Doha Sports City, ended by entering Villaggio Mall. This mall in the outskirts of Al Waab Street was developed by Gondolania Entertainment, therefore the concept of gondola tourism in Venice was adopted in this one-story shopping center.
Designed in it’s 150 meter long indoor canal complete with gondola boat, reminds me when I visited The Venetian in Macau 4 years ago.
The main retailer at Villaggio Mall is Carrefour, but this shopping center also accommodates 200 stores selling well-known brands from America, England, Italy and Germany. Come on, those who like shopping, please stop by here!
23.Al Koot Fort
The fourth day, I intend to explore the MDD (Mshreib Downtown Doha) area, which is a replacement city for Mushayrib District whose its development is planned in detail.
But before entering MDD area, I took time to stop at the 93-year-old Al Koot Fort. It was the services of fourth Emir of Qatar, Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani who built this fort with the aim of protecting Souq Waqif from notorious band of thieves at that time.
After stopping at Al Koot Fort or Doha Fort, then I stepped into the MDD area. Let’s see what’s in MDD?
24.Msheireb Museum
The main tourist spot which I visited in Mshreib Downtown Doha was Msheireb Museum which was developed by Msheireb Properties (Qatar National Real Estate Developer). I diligently traced four historic heritage homes which make up the main part of Msheireb Museum. Namely Bin Jelmood House which reveals the history of slave trade in that country, Company House which reveals the story of pioneers of Qatar’s oil industry workers, Mohammed Bin Jassim House which is a house built by son of the founder of Qatar, Sheikh Mohammed bin Jassim Al Thani and Radwani House which is a duplication of original Qatari house model.
If you go to Qatar, you have to come here…. Free ticket anyway.
25. Msheireb Tram
Riding the Msheireb Tram is an easy way to experience the beauty of MDD. This mass transportation was launched by Msheireb Properties with a two kilometer long loop track and is able to connect every spot on MDD in just eighteen minutes.
You have to feel the comfort of an American-made electric tram that uses a filtering glass panel which is said to be able to prevent sunlight from entering the tram cabin by up to 90%.
26. Doha Free Metrolink
Before leaving Qatar, on the last day I tried to try out Doha Metrolink which is a feeder bus network to connect anyone with Doha Metro Station within a radius of two to five kilometers.
There is no charge for using this feeder bus service. The Qatari government provides forty-two Doha Free Metrolink lines that operate from six in the morning to eleven at night.
If you want to travel cheaply in Qatar, look for a hotel which is passed by this bus route. Especially if the hotel is a bit far from the downtown, it will definitely save your pocket more…. Hihihi.
Hopefully this COVID-19 pandemic will end soon and you can immediately travel to Qatar….Amen.
Di bagian akhir kunjungan ke Msheireb Museum, aku melakukan eksplorasi bersama lelaki setengah baya dari Perancis. Aku menuntunnya pelan-pelan memasuki ruangan demi ruangan.
Radwani House adalah gambaran asli dari rumah khas Qatar yang dibangun pada tahun 1920-an di perbatasan distrik tertua di Qatar yaitu Al-Jassra dan Msheireb. Rumah ini dibeli oleh Ali Akbar Radwani pada 5 Desember 1936 dan ditinggali bersama keluarganya hingga lebih dari 70 tahun.
Radwani House ini sudah diperbesar dan ditata ulang dari bangunan awal seiring waktu berjalan dan inilah satu dari sekian banyak bangunan bersejarah terpenting di Doha. Rumah ini menunjukkan sejarah kehidupan dan gaya hidup warga Qatar yang luar biasa dan menggambarkan adaptasi atas perubahan sosial kemasyarakatan yang luas di Qatar selama Abad XX.
Penelitian khusus mengenai Radwani House dilakukan pada musim dingin 2012-2013 oleh tim arkeolog dari University College London Qatar. Inilah investigasi arkeologi pertama kali yang dilakukan di seantero Qatar.
Ditemukannya pondasi lain dalam bangunan ini menunjukkan bahwa rumah ini sudah mengalami banyak renovasi sepanjang umur berdirinya, tampak ditemukan subuah sumur yang apabila diperhatikan dari layout awal rumah itu, maka sumur ini terletak di luar bangunan utama, tepatnya di sebuah gang sempit.
Diketahui pula bahwa rumah ini awalnya terdiri dari dua bangunan, yang setelah kedua bagian ini dibeli oleh pemilik yang sama maka kedua bagian itu digabungkan. Kedua ujung gang ditutup sehingga menghasilkan bentuk rumah yang lebih luas.
Pondasi lama.
Sumur beserta bak mandi.
Penggalian Radwani House menemukan beberapa benda yang memberikan petunjuk akan kehidupan sehari-hari di rumah ini. Ditemukan tempat pembakar dupa dari tahun 1920-1930, serangkaian cangkang mutiara yang dibuang yang merupakan hasil dari pengumpulan kerang laut saat air sedang surut, cangkir kopi, gelas, perhiasan, pakaian dan mainan.
Sherbah, kendi berleher panjang berbahan tanah liat dan berguna sebagai tempat minum.
Cangkang mutiara.
Cangkir kopi.
Radwani House direnovasi pada awal tahun 1940an untuk menghasilkan rumah seperti yang anda lihat saat ini:
Bentuk Radwani House saat ini.
Pintu depan.
Teras.
Majlis- halaman rumah khas Qatar-.
Walaupun halaman rumah tampak luas, tetap saja Ridwani House menampilan concern sebuah privasi. Tampak bagian luar rumah tak berjendela. Jendela hanya ada pada dinding yang menghadap ke halaman. Sedangkan halaman itu sendiri seluruh sisinya dikelilingi oleh bangunan rumah.
Sedangkan bagian dari gerbang utama yang akan menghantarkan orang menuju ke halaman harus berbelok dahulu 90 derajat untuk memastikan bahwa halaman rumah tak terlihat oleh orang dari luar.
Penyusunan ruangan Radwani House juga menunjukkan kekhasan tersendiri. Ada ruangan yang berfungsi sangat khusus seperti dapur dan gudang. Sebagian lagi dibangun sebagai ruang fungsional.
Ruang tamu.
Kamar tidur.
Ruang lesehan keluarga.
Ruang lesehan tamu.
Dapur.
Furniture ruangan.
Inilah destinasi terakhir selama kunjunganku di Qatar. Maka sudah barang tentu, aku harus segera meninggalkan Qatar.
Mau kemana ya kedua kakiku ini hendak dilangkahkan?……
Bagian kedua dari Msheireb Museum adalah Bin Jelmood House.
Siapakah sosok Bin Jelmood?….Dia adalah pedagang budak terkenal di Doha pada masa perbudakan masih berlangsung. Dia sering dikenal dengan sebutan “The Rock”, merujuk pada pendirian dan kekerasan hatinya kala itu.
Eh, edisi ini lebih serius dari edisi Company House, ya temans….Bersiaplah membaca lebih khusyu’.
Yuk, kita mulai masuk!….Panas di luar, tauk.
Di awal penjelajahan Bin Jelmood House, aku memasuki sebuah ruang audio visual yang menceritakan masa perdagangan budak dari Afrika ke Eropa.
Bentuk rumah Doha zaman dahulu, halaman berada di tengahnya.
Dikisahkan…Eropa di Abad Pertengahan dimana perbudakan didukung oleh sistem sosial yang disebut dengan SERFDOM.
Kala itu, para budak dipakaikan aksesoris khusus berupa gelang bernama Manilla dan fakta yang telah menjadi sejarah bahwa satu diantara empat warga Athena akan menjadi budak dan dipekerjakan di ladang zaitun. Di belahan dunia lain, Syria, terdapat kontrak perbudakan antara pembeli dan penjual budak.
Sesi “The Indian Ocean World”.
Peradaban di Afrika dan Asia khususnya India, Timur Tengah, dan Sriwijaya (Indonesia) berkembang melalui Samudera Hindia.
Dalam sejarah maritim Samudera Hindia, barang dan budak diperdagangkan antara negara-negara di Afrika dan wilayah Teluk. Sementara antara India dan Asia Timur, barang dan budak diperjualbelikan melalui Jalur Sutra (jalur ini memiliki dua rute, darat dan laut). Salah satu gambar di museum memperlihatkan ekspor oxen (lembu) dari Madagaskar ke Mauritius.
Kejadian di belahan timur dunia juga digambarkan dalam foto hitam putih, yaitu tentang kegiatan Hindia Belanda pada ekspor rempah-rempah di Pelabuhan Jakarta pada tahun 1682, sementara di India, kapal-kapal dagang membawa opium dari Calcutta menuju Tiongkok
Sesi “Slavery in The Indian Ocean World ”
Kisah para budak yang melegenda ada di sini.
Perbudakan sangat marak dilakukan pada masa sebelum Islam, dimana budak dari Mesir, Mediterania Timur dan Afrika dijual ke Mekah dan Baghdad yang merupakan pasar utama budak di Timur Tengah. Salah satu kisahnya adalah tentang budak terkenal bernama Antarah bin Shaddad Al-Absi yang dilahirkan oleh budak Ethiopia dengan bapak seorang pemimpin Bani Abas. Kemudian kisah Abdullah Ibn Abi Quhafa (Abu Bakar Ash-Shidiq) yang menjadi figur penting dalam sejarah pembebasan budak, salah satu budak terkenal yang dibebaskan olehnya adalah Bilal bin Rabah Al-Habashi. Lalu Islam turun di Timur Tengah dan melarang adanya perbudakan antar sesama manusia.
Beberapa metode perbudakan di sekitar Samudera Hindia adalah melalui perang, hukuman atas kejahatan, invasi, penculikan, penjualan anggota keluarga dan jeratan hutang.
Sesi “Slaves’Status in The Indian Ocean World”
Di kalangan kelas atas, perbudakan menunjukkan level pengaruh dan kesejahteraan sang tuan.
Di masa Kekaisaran Abassid (Abasiyah), dibentuklah Pasukan Mamluk (Mamluk Army) yang dibentuk dari kalangan budak Balkan, Kaukasus dan Eropa. Pasukan ini sangat terkenal semasa kekuasaan Dinasti Ayyubid di Mesir pada Abad ke-12. Terdapat juga Pasukan Janissaries yang dibentuk oleh Kekaisaran Utsmaniyah di Turki yang beranggotakan pemuda dari keluarga kristiani yang dilatih dengan kaidah agama dan militer.
Pada pertengahan Abad ke-19, perkebunan cengkeh sangat berkembang di Afrika Timur. Hal ini berdampak dengan diperbudaknya 1,6 juta orang disana. Di bagian ini, museum menampilkan sebuah pedang milik budak Zanzibar pada masa itu.
Dikisahkan juga seorang Tippu Ti (Hamed bin Muhammed Al-Murjebi), pemilik tujuh perkebunan cengkeh dan 10.000 budak. Pengusaha dari Swahili-Zanzibari Ivory ini menangkap dan menjual budak atas perintah Raja Leopold dari Belgia yang merupakan pemegang otoritas di Kongo.
Cerita menyayat hati lainnya adalah tentang Raja Persia, Bahram Gur yang menginjak budak perempuan kesayangannya yang bernama Azada dari atas kuda, hanya karena dia tidak menghargai kemampuan berburunya. Pada zaman dahulu budak hanya akan terjamin hidupnya jika dia dintegrasikan menjadi bagian dari keluarga sang majikan, hal ini bisa dilakukan jika si budak mampu berkomunikasi dengan bahasa tuannya serta mau memeluk agama tuannya.
Lima Ruangan yang Mendeskripsikan Perbudakan di Qatar.
Ilustrasi aktivitas budak di Bin Jelmood House tempo dulu.
Di awal Abad ke-20, penduduk Qatar hanya berjumlah 27.000 jiwa dan faktanya adalah satu dari enam warganya adalah seorang budak. Kepemilikan budak merupakan jaminan bagi para pebisnis ekspor mutiara dan juga para importir, supaya barang mereka tetap aman dalam perjalan gurun yang keras dan pelayaran laut yang berbahaya.
Qatar masih sepi ya kala itu.
Pada tahun 1868, Sheikh Mohammed bin Thani menandatangani perjanjian perlindungan dari Pemerintah Inggris. Sementara pada tahun 1872, Kekaisaran Utsmaniyah membentuk garnisun militer di Doha hingga akhir Perang Dunia I. Setelah kepergian mereka pada tahun 1916, Inggris mulai menanamkan pengaruh di Qatar melalui pangkalan mereka di Bahrain.
Pada Abad ke-18, Qatar terdampak positif dalam perkembangan ekonomi global. Terutama karena meningkatnya permintaan dunia akan mutiara. Untuk meningkatkan hasil tangkap mutiara inilah terjadilah perbudakan pekerja pada industri tangkap mutiara di Qatar.
Di awal Abad ke-19, sebanyak 2.000-3.000 budak dikirim ke Timur Tengah khususnya Oman untuk diperdagangkan.
Sedangkan pada akhir Abad ke-19, budak yang dipekerjakan di Qatar, diambil dari Afrika Timur dan Laut Merah, ribuan lagi didatangkan dari Zanzibar, para budak itu dibawa dengan Dhow Boat menyeberangi Samudera Hindia menuju Qatar. Pada awal Abad ke-20, karena terjadi penentangan perbudakan di Afrika Timur maka budak mulai diambil dari Baluchistan.
Populasi budak di Qatar terus dijaga para tuannya dengan cara menikahkan sesama budak yang tentu akan melahirkan anak sebagai budak juga.
Efek dari peningkatan penangkapan budak di Afrika ternyata mengganggu komunitas umum di wilayah tersebut. Hal inilah yang menyebabkan peperangan tiada henti di Afrika.
Pada masa penangkapan budak, budak akan dirantai dan berjalan dari Mozambik, Kongo, Malawi dan Zambia sejauh 1.000 mil menuju pantai Kilwa di Tanzania, terkadang sebelum sampai di pantai, mereka akan terbunuh oleh para perampok, kemudian budak yang selamat maka selama berminggu-minggu bahkan berbulan-bulan akan berlayar untuk dijual ke Timur Tengah dan Yaman.
Ilustrasi penculikan budak di Afrika.
Di pasar budak Zanzibar, budak wanita akan dikenakan pakaian bagus dan perhiasan supaya harga jualnya mahal. Pembeli biasanya akan mengecek kesehatan fisik dan kecantikan sebelum membelinya. Bahkan budak akan diberikan nama baru seperti Faida (keuntungan), Baraka (berkat) dan Mubaroka (diberkati). Sebagai gambaran secara nominal, pada tahun 1926, seorang budak penyelam laki-laki berusia 24 tahun di Qatar bisa dibeli dengan harga 1.210 Rupee.
Budak di Doha dan Al Wakra, beberapa diantaranya hidup serumah bersama tuannya, memakan makanan yang sama dan memakai pakaian yang sama. Sebagian dari mereka tinggal terpisah di sebelah rumah yang disediakan sang majikan.
Dalam keseharian, budak perempuan akan bekerja menyiapkan makanan dan mengasuh anak-anak. Sedangkan para budak laki-laki setelah musim berburu kerang mutiara usai, akan bekerja mencari kayu bakar, memecah batu, mengangkut air, dan menjadi penjaga keamanan para pejabat kota.
Kemudian terjadilah akulturasi sosial, budak yang awalnya adalah mayoritas non-muslim menerima kehadiran Islam dalam kehidupannya, lalu mereka memeluknya. Begitu pula anak-anak budak secara otomatis akan menjadi muslim karena agama orang tuanya.
Ilustrasi budak dengan pekerjaan sehari-harinya.
Tetapi budaya asal mereka tetap melekat dan tak bisa ditinggalkan begitu saja. Para budak asal Afrika Barat, Ethiopia, Sudan, Somalia, Mesir, Tunisia dan Maroko sering mengadakan Ritual Zar pada saat tuannya sudah tertidur di malam hari. Ritual Zar ini dianggap bisa memberikan ruh dan semangat untuk mendapatkan kesehatan fisik dan mental.
Seiring berjalannya waktu, ternyata permintaan budak meningkat di seantero Qatar ketika industri mutiara menjadi booming dan dibutuhkan oleh dunia.
Pada prakteknya, budak penyelam mutiara akan bekerja dari fajar hingga tenggelamnya matahari. Keranjang kecil akan dikalungkan di leher untuk menyimpan 8-10 oyster yang diambilnya dari dasar laut. Mereka akan menyelam dengan rataan waktu 90 menit dan bisa melakukan penyelaman hingga 50 kali per hari.
Budak penyelam mutiara.
Tahun berganti tahun, ketidakjelasan ekonomi Qatar menyebabkan pengurangan jumlah penduduk dari 27.000 jiwa menjadi 16.000 jiwa dan hanya 4.000 jiwa diantaranya yang masih tertarik bekerja di industri mutiara. Para budak mulai dikirim ke ladang minyak untuk bekerja dan upahnya akan dibagi bersama tuannya.
Sesi “The Richness of Diversity”
Keberagaman di Qatar saat ini.
Perpindahan budak selama ratusan tahun di Qatar berkontribusi atas terbentuknya budaya Qatar dalam hal kuliner, musik dan bahasa. Masyarakat Qatar kemudian mengenal Indian Biryani, Levantine Mansaf, Spanish Paella, dan Balaleet. Budaya lain yang berkembang diantaranya adalah bermain Mancala dan menghias tubuh dengan Qatari Henna.
Qatar telah lama menjadi titik pertemuan dari perpindahan manusia yang membawa budayanya masing-masing karena terletak di persimpangan jalur perdagangan Samudera Hindia. Bahkan banyak orang yang awalnya hanya singgah akhirnya menetap di Qatar.
Sesi “Knowing Our Ancestors”
Dari studi fosil dan arkeologi, diketahui bahwa nenek moyang bangsa Qatar berasal Afrika.
Diselipkan di sesi ini adalah perihal DNA dan pewarisannya, anatomi yang diajarkan oleh Avicenna, genom manusia dan pembacaan susunan DNA yang bisa membantu manusia untuk mengobati sejumlah penyakit tertentu berdasarkan informasi tersebut.
Bahwa gen juga mempengaruhi tipe darah, rambut dan warna mata. Di beberapa studi mengatakan bahwa gen akan menjadikan manusia menjadikan super taster (mengecap sesuatu lebih pahit dari orang normal) dan non-taster (tidak peka rasa).
Kembali ke masalah perbudakan…..
Di akhir Abad ke-19, Inggris mulai memprakarsai pengurangan angka perbudakan di Timur Tengah. Mereka sering meyelamatkan kapal budak dan dibawa ke wilayah teritori Inggris.`Hal ini dikarenakan, sejak akhir Abad ke-18, masyarakat Eropa Barat melalui parlemennya melemparkan opini penghapusan perbudakan.
Masa-masa awal perjuangan menghapus perbudakan.
Ada momen yang tepat ketika terjadi penandatangan kesepakatan perlindungan Qatar oleh Inggris pada 3 November 1916. Hal ini dimanfaatkan Inggris untuk meminta Sheikh Abdullah Bin Jassim Al-Thani untuk menghentikan praktek perbudakan di Qatar sebagai syarat. Tetapi warga Qatar menolak penghapusan ini.
Keberhasilan penghapusan perbudakan baru efektif diterima saat Qatar berhasil mengekspor minyaknya ke luar negeri. Dengan keuntungan penjualan minyak, pemerintah Qatar bisa membayar uang kompensasi kepada para pemilik budak untuk membebaskan budaknya masing-masing. Dan akhirnya, pada April 1952, praktek perbudakan secara resmi dilarang di seluruh Qatar.
Setelah pelarangan itu, banyak budak yang diberi kewarganegaraan Qatar oleh Sang Emir dan banyak diantara mereka diterima bekerja dengan gaji penuh di perusahaan minyak Qatar.
Sesi “Qatar, a Pioneer in Personalized Healthcare”
Pencapaian bidang kesehatan di Qatar
Qatar adalah negara yang berkomitmen terhadap penelitian genetik dan menjadi negara pioneer dalam personalized medicine, yaitu suatu manajemen penanganan pasien di dunia kedokteran berdasarkan informasi genotype pasien, sehingga bisa dilakukan evaluasi untuk mengetahui penanganan yang cocok untuk jenis penyakit yang diidap.
Qatar membuat kemajuan dengan mendirikan Qatar Biobank yaitu tempat menyimpan informasi kesehatan dan sampel biologis dari warga negaranya. Biobank ini sangat membantu dalam Qatar Genome Programme yang diluncurkan oleh pemerintah. Program ini didanai oleh Qatar Foudation melalui Qatar National Research Fund dan juga didanai oleh Menteri Kesehatan.
Qatar juga menjadi tempat didirikannya pusat-pusat penelitian seperti Qatar Biomedical Research Institute di Hamad bin Khalifa University, Qatar University Biomedical Researc Center dan Weill Cornell Medicine.
Qatar juga memiliki National Diabetes Center, National Premarital Screeningand Counselling Programme, serta Qatar Newborn Screening Programme.
Sesi “Modern Slavery”
Contoh Modern Slavery.
Perlu kamu ketahui bahwa sekitar 27 juta manusia telah menjadi korban perbudakan modern di seluruh dunia. Perbudakan jenis ini diakibatkan oleh maraknya human trafficking.
Beberapa fakta mengejutkan diantaranya adalah:
2,5 juta orang adalah tenaga kerja paksa, termasuk eksploitasi sexual.
Human trafficking adalah kejahatan internasional paling banyak memberi keuntungan uang, bersama narkoba dan arms trafficking (perdagangan senjata).
Keuntungan dari human trafficking per tahun mencapai 31,6 milyar Dolar Amerika.
Mayoritas korban human trafficking berusia 18-24 tahun.
1,2 juta anak-anak diperdagangkan tiap tahun.
Dari 190 negara di dunia, 161 negara memiliki peran dalam perdagangan manusia ini. Baik sebagai sumber, tujuan atau sebagai negara transit.
Krisis politik dan kemanusiaan sering menempatkan golongan rentan (wanita dan anak-anak) dari wilayah-wilayah kurang berkembang pada resiko human trafficking (perdagangan manusia).
Banyak anak-anak pada era 1990-an dipekerjakan di pabrik-pabrik, kapal-kapal ikan, pertambangan, lahan pertanian dan wanita-wanita di bawah umur dipekerjakan di industri sexual. Mereka bekerja melebihi waktu normal, terkadang tanpa upah, hanya hidup dengan makanan seadanya dan tempat tinggal seadanya.
Sesi “Organizations”
Perjuangan Qatar menghapus perbudakan di era modern.
Kemudian banyak bermunculan organisasi di dunia yang bergerak untuk mengakhiri human trafficking, mereka melakukan pertemuan dengan pemerintah di negara-negara yang masih terdapat praktik perbudakan modern, mereka bertemu para agensi tenaga kerja di seluruh dunia untuk bersama-sama melawan praktek perbudakan modern.
Qatari House for Lodging and Human Care adalah salah satu dari sekian banyak organisasi yang melindungi para korban human trafficking. Organisasi ini memberikan pelayanan kesehatan, konsultasi psikiater, bantuan hukum, rehabilitasi, serta kursus memasak dan menjahit.
Qatar adalah pendana pertama dan terbesar untuk UN Global Action Plan to Combat Human Trafficking. Qatar juga mendanai The Arab Initiative for Capacity Building in Combating Human Trafficking yang merupakan kolaborasi antara UNODC dan Arab League.
Akhirnya….
Tak terasa aku sudah berada di akhir sesi di Bin Jelmood House ini. Aku menyempatkan diri memasuki toilet, mengambil gambar selasar dan halaman, kemudian mengucapkan terimakasih kepada segenap staff di reception desk ketika hendak meninggalkan museum.
Aku meninggalkan Doha Sports City menjelang maghrib. Keluar dari Villaggio Mall, menuju Stasiun Al Aziziyah yang hanya berjarak 100 meter dari pintu nomor empat shopping mall kenamaan itu.
Di pintu masuk stasiun…..terjadilah insiden tipis antar pengelana….
“Hello, do you want go with metro?”, ucap pemuda ikal, berkulit putih dan berwajah khas Arab tetapi lebih pendek sedikit dariku.
“Yes, brother”, ucapku singkat.
“Use this ticket!, I will go back with bus, You can use it”, dia menyodorkan tiketnya kepadaku.
“Oh, No, thanks. I will buy a single journey ticket at downstair”, kutolak halus karena salah duga, kukira dia menjual tiket kepadaku. Aku tahu itu Standard Day Pass ticket seharga Rp. 16.000
“Brother, just take it. I don’t need more because I will use bus”, Dia tampak bergegas dan menyelipkan tiket itu ke tangan kananku.
Ya ampun….Ternyata dia memberikan dengan cuma-cuma. “Thank you very much, brother”, ucapku singkat.
“I’m Donny from Indonesia, what is your name, brother?”, tanyaku sebelum berpisah.
“Said from Algeria….”, senyumnya sembari membenarkan tas punggung hijaunya lalu bergegas meninggalkanku.
“Thank you, Said”, aku mulai menuruni escalator menuju platform Doha Metro.
Mengejar MRT yang sudah mengambil ancang-ancang, diperintahkanlah aku oleh petugas berkebangsaan Philippines untuk memasuki metro melalui gerbong kelas Goldclub yang mewah lalu berpindah ke gerbong kelas Standard di belakangnya. Wahhhh…..gerbang Goldclub itu menawarkan tempat duduk tunggal mewah bak business seat pesawat terbang, kursi bersandaran lengan yang terpisah satu sama lain dalam baris memanjang berhadapan. Terduduk di gerbong standard, aku dibawa menyusuri jalur Gold Line menuju Stasiun Souq Waqif yang lokasinya cukup berdekatan dengan Al Ghanim Bus Station. Aku akan menaiki Karwa Bus langganan bernomor 12 menuju penginapan.
Aku masih mengingat pesan salah satu staff hotel asal Islamabad bahwa malam ini mereka mengajakku memasak bersama dan menyantap masakan khas negeri mereka yaitu Pakistani White Pulao-hidangan nasi yang dicampur dengan cacahan wortel, sayur dan kacang-kacangan-.
Seusai mandi, benar adanya, mereka ke kamar membajakku dan digelandang e dapur untuk bergabung bersama para chef dadakan Casper Hotel.
Pakistani White Pulao…..Nyammm.
—-****—-
Fajar ke empat yang kurasakan di Qatar. Aku sedikit bermalas-malasan karena kelelahan dan kejenuhan menjadi musuh baru. Menjelang pukul sepuluh pagi, aku mulai berangkat menuju Al Ghanim Bus Station. Awalnya berencana menuju ke Museum Islamic of Art. Eh, tetapi….Begitu tiba di terminal, aku berfikir ulang. Dompetku mengkhianati niat, dituntunnya aku mencari destinasi gratisan untuk menghemat amunisi yang mulai menipis.
Mencoba berselancar maya dengan duduk santai di terminal, akhirnya aku tahu harus melangkah kemana. Msheireb….Ya, Msheireb!
Ada Msheireb Museum yang dibuka gratis untuk wisatawan disana. Aku berfikir lanjut….Setelah mengunjungi museum itu, aku bisa berkeliling di area Msheireb Downtown Doha untuk melihat konsep kota terencana itu.
Perlu kamu tahu….MDD (Msheireb Downtown Doha) adalah sebuah kota pengganti Distrik Mushayrib yang pengembangannya direncanakan sangat detail.
Aku menjelajah sepanjang Ali Bin Abdullah Street, melewati Gold Souq -bangunan sepuluh jendela kaca lengkung sentra jual beli emas-, melintas kantor kas Qatar National Bank (QNB) Souq Waqif kemudian belok kanan di sebuah perempatan.
Gold Souq.
Sebelum benar-benar tiba di Msheireb Museum, langkahku tertahan di bawah sebuah bangunan ikonik, yang dari bentuknya aku sendiri faham bahwa itu adalah bangunan pertahanan atau benteng. Sewaktu kemudian, aku mengenalnya sebagai Al Kort Fort.
Dikenal juga sebagai Doha Fort, bangunan berusia 140 tahun ini dibangun pada masa Kesultanan Utsmaniyah sebagai kantor kepolisian. Tiga puluh lima tahun dihitung dari masa berdirinya, benteng ini berubah fungsi menjadi penjara di masa akhir kekuasaan Kesultanan Utsmaniyah.
Lalu sejarah kembali berubah ketika Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani, Emir ketiga Qatar, membangun kembali benteng ini seiring melonjaknya angka kejahatan di sekitar Souq Waqif. Konon, muncul sekelompok pencuri terkenal yang merajalela di area pasar. Nah benteng inilah menjadi pusat keamanan Souq Waqif pada masa rawan itu.
Sesuai ciri khas benteng gurun pasir, bangunan ini berbentuk persegi dengan satu menara persegi panjang di salah satu sudut dan tiga menara bundar di ketiga sudut lainnya.
Sayang , benteng ini masih dalam proses renovasi sehingga aku tidak bisa masuk ke dalamnya. Tapi tnetu tak mengapa, karena aku bisa lekas berkunjung ke Msheireb Museum.
Mau tau ga Msheireb Museum kayak apa?….Panjang lho kisah yang tersampaikan di dalamnya….Siap-siap membaca penuh kesabaran ya!.
Mungkin sosok yang berjasa membawaku ke Qatar adalah Valentino Rossi. Ya….Legenda hidup balapan kuda besi premium itu telah sekian lama memaksaku menyambangi Losail International Circuit melalui layar televisi. Selama bertahun-tahun menonton MotoGP itu pula, niat untuk mengunjungi Qatar mulai mengganggu tidur malamku.
Mimpi itu telah menjadi sebuah kenyataan indah ketika selama lima hari aku bisa menjelajah Qatar di awal tahun 2020. Kini saatnya bagiku untuk menceritakan kepada kalian tentang keelokannya. Berikut sedikit banyak kenangan yang kudapatkan di negeri kaya “emas hitam” itu:
1. Hamad International Airport
Bisa ditasbihkan bahwa Hamad International Airport (HIA) adalah penyempurna gerbang pariwisata Qatar. Sejak heksa warsa lalu, HIA sukses menggantikan peran Doha International Airport. Perlu kamu ketahui bahwa penamaan bandara ini di catut dari nama Emir Qatar, Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani.
Pagi yang cerah kala itu, aku mengamini kemegahan bandara yang terletak di tepian Teluk Persia ini. Inilah bandara yang menyimpan aset “Beruang Kuning” senilai 91 milyar Rupiah….Wowww.
2. Karwa Bus
Sebagai seorang yang taat dengan kode etik kaum backpacker, aku hanya dihadapkan pada dua pilihan untuk menuju pusat kota…..Kereta atau bus?. Kali ini bus menjadi pilihan pertamaku.
Belum juga melihat dan menaikinya, sudah terbayang bahwa aku akan menaiki bus kota berpenampilan modern ketika nanti meninggalkan bandara.
Bus kota Doha dikenal dengan nama Karwa Bus dan dibutuhkan KARWA Smart Card untuk mengunggangnya. Seluruh bus kota Doha dioperasikan oleh perusahaan transportasi negara yaitu Mowasalat. Rerata tarif sekali jalan juga sangat terjangkau yaitu sekitar Rp. 10.000.
3.Al Ghanim Bus Station
Setelah check-in di Casper Hotel dan menaruh semua perlengkapan, aku mulai mengeksplorasi kota Doha. Tempat pertama yang kujejak adalah Al Ghanim Bus Station sebagai tujuan akhir Karwa Bus bernomor 12 yang mengangkutku dari sebelah hotel.
Terletak di Municipality Ad Dawhah, Al Ghanim Bus Station adalah landmark penting. Terminal bus ini tentu mengcover sebagian besar rute Karwa Bus di Qatar. Al Ghanim Bus Station mengambil peran sebagai terminal sentral di Qatar sekaligus menjadi kantor pusat Mowasalat. Jika kamu berniat menjelajah wisata Qatar menggunakan bus, pasti kamu akan sering menyambangi terminal ini.
4.Abdul Aziz Nasser Theater
Inilah ruang pertunjukan untuk multidisiplin seni yang mensupport seniman lokal dan internasional. Terletak di pusat kota Doha dengan kapasitas hampir seribu tempat duduk. Bahkan untuk mempermudah pelaksanaan event-event besar, teater ini dikoneksikan secara langsung dengan Al Mirqab Hotel yang terletak tepat di sisi baratnya.
5.Al Fanar Mosque
Aku mengunjungi masjid ini setelah mengeksplore Al Ghanim Bus Station. Lokasinya hanya berjarak satu kilometer di utara terminal. Al Fanar adalah Pusat Kebudayaan Islam Qatar yang lebih dikenal dengan nama Al Sheikh Abdullah Bin Zaid Al-Mahmood Islamic Cultural Center. Selain mengenalkan budaya Qatar melalui Islam, Fanar Cultural Center ini juga menyelenggarakan kegiatan sosial dan pendidikan.
6.Souq Faleh
Souq Faleh dan Al Fanar Masque hanya dipisahkan oleh Al Tarbiya Street. Merupakan salah satu dari sekian banyak pasar-pasar tua di Doha. Jika kamu penggemar Abaya, maka pasar ini menjadi tempat yang tepat untuk memburunya, karena harga yang ditawarkan tergolong lebih murah dari pasar-pasar yang lain.
7.Domes Mosque
Sedang asyik berkunjung ke Souq Faleh, tiba-tiba suara adzan Dzhuhur memanggil. Tampaknya aku harus segera mengakhiri eksplorasiku sejenak dan menuju ke sebuah masjid tua di tenggara. Masjid dengan banyak kubah dan tiang ini masih berdiri gagah di tengah modernnya kota. Shalat Dzuhur siang itu dipenuhi jama’ah yang datang dari segenap penjuru. Dan itu adalah shalat berjama’ahku pertama kali di Doha.
8.City Souq
Bersebelahan dengan Al Fanar Mosque di sebelah timur, tepat di salah satu sudut perempatan Al Tarbiya Street dan Al Bareed Street terdapatlah shopping mall modern dengan julangan tujuh lantai yang kemudian tampak mengkerdilkan bangunan Central Municipal Center di seberangnya. Aku memasukinya hanya untuk sekedar berburu fridge magnet lalu mencuri foto suasana di dalam.
Dikenal dengan nama City Souq, mall ini menyediakan pakaian, garmen, sepatu, parfum, mainan anak-anak, stationery, selimut dan abaya. Berlatihlah menawar sebelum berbelanja di tempat ini.
9.Souq Waqif
Berusia lebih dari dua abad, tak membuat Souq Waqif merubah bentuk arsitekturnya. Menjadi satu-satunya pasar tradisional kuno di seluruh Qatar.
Waqif berarti berdiri. Karena pada masa perintisan pasar, tidak ada satupun kios yang dibangun. Hal ini disebabkan karena meluapnya air laut dari pantai Doha yang menggenangi pasar. Bahkan diawal berdirinya, para pembeli akan datang menggunakan perahu atau menaiki onta untuk mensiasati genangan tersebut dan penjual akan berdiri sepanjang hari untuk menawarkan dagangannya.
10.The Pearl Monument
Meninggalkan sejenak Souq Waqif untuk kemudian kutengok ulang esok hari, aku menyasar The Pearl Monument di seberang Al Corniche Street yang menyediakan fasilitas penyeberangan bawah tanah di kolongnya. Kurasa tak hanya traveler, bahkan seluruh warga negara Qatar hendaknya wajib mengunjungi monumen berwujud kerang mutiara menganga ini. Melalui monumen ini, semua khalayak harus tahu bahwa sebelum tahun 1939 yaitu era sebelum ditemukannya minyak di perut bumi mereka, Qatar adalah negara miskin yang pendapatannya bergantung pada hasil tangkap kerang mutiara di Teluk Persia.
11.Corniche Promenade
Mengunjungi The Pearl Monument membuatku bahagia tak terkira, selain mendalami sejarah Qatar, mata dimanjakan dengan indahnya pemandangan Doha Corniche. Promenade sepanjang tujuh kilometer ini menampakkan lengkungan Teluk Doha yang dijejali gedung pencakar langit di ujungnya. Sementara sebaran traditional dhow boat yang diam terjangkar di sepanjang teluk menjadi interior alam yang mengelokkan suasana.
12.Museum of Islamic Art
Tepat di ujung timur Doha Corniche terdapat bangunan yang didirikan layaknya mengambang di tepian laut. Adalah Museum of Islamic Art yang didalamnya dipamerkan kekayaan budaya Islam dari tiga benua yang telah berusia lebih dari 1.400 tahun lamanya. Inilah museum andalan Qatar yang didirikan oleh saudara perempuan dari Emir mereka yaitu H. E Sheikha Al Mayassa binti Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. Keberadaan museum ini telah mentasbihkan Qatar sebagai ibu kota budaya kawasan Timur Tengah.
13.MIA Park
MIA dalam nama taman ini adalah singkatan dari Museum of Islamic Art. Sesuai namanya, sebelum mendatanginya, semua orang sudah bisa dipastikan faham bahwa taman ini terletak tepat di depan Museum of Islamic Art. Taman yang sering menjadi venue resmi negara pada perayaan hari libur nasional, selain itu taman ini sering dipakai sebagai tempat berlangsungnya pertunjukan musik, kegiatan bazaar ataupun konser-konser regular lainnya. Sedangkan khusus di hari Selasa dan dimulai pada pukul 17:00, taman ini menjadi area publik khusus kaum Hawa yang biasanya dipimpin oleh personal trainer dalam latihan kardio dan senam kebugaran.
14. Doha Hop On Hop Off Bus
Buat kamu yang tidak mau repot menjelajah Doha. Pariwisata Qatar menyediakan Hop On-Hop Off Sightseeing Tour. Jadi kamu cukup duduk manis dari atas bus dan akan diantarkan ke beberapa destinasi wisata di Doha. Bus ini berentang waktu tiga puluh menit dalam pengoperasiannya. Melewati destinasi wisata utama Qatar yaitu Souq Waqif, Katara Cultural Village, The Pearl Qatar dan Museum of Islamic Art. Untuk memanjakan para traveler, bus ini juga berhenti di Hotel Marriott, Sharq Village and Spa, Sheraton dan Hilton Hotel.
15. West Bay
Hari Kedua….Udara sangat berangin dan dingin tentunya. Menaiki Karwa Bus bernomor 12 dan bersambung dengan nomor 64, aku menuju West Bay. Kompleks bangunan pencakar langit itu seakan melambai-lambaikan tangannya kepadaku ketika kupandangi dari sisi lain Doha Corniche sore kemarin.
Kini aku tepat berada di tengah area bisnis di pantai timur Doha ini. Sebuah area yang mengcover tiga distrik sekaligus, yaitu Al Qassar, Al Dafna dan West Bay Lagoon. Akhirnya dari dekat, aku bisa menikmati Burj Doha, bangunan paling ikonik di Qatar itu.
16.City Center Doha
Menelusuri setiap inchi jalanan di West Bay, aku sampai juga di salah satu shopping mall tertua di Qatar. City Center Doha yang diletakkan di pusat bisnis tetapi ditargetkan melayani para pelanggan dari kelas ekonomi menengah. Tepat berloksi di tengah area West Bay, shopping mall ini terkoneksi secara langsung dengan tiga hotel mewah yaitu Shangri La Hotel, Rotana Hotel dan Merweb Hotel.
17. Doha Metro
Untuk pertama kalinya aku menaiki Doha Metro. Sistem tranportasi masal teranyar milik Qatar yang dioperasikan sejak setahun lalu. MRT tiga jalur (Red Line, Green Line dan Gold Line) yang dimiliki oleh Hamad Group ini ditasbihkan sebagai kereta tanpa pengemudi tercepat di dunia dengan kecepatan jelajah mencapai 100 km/jam.
Kali ini aku menikmati fasilitas mewahnya dari Stasiun DECC (Doha Exhibition & Convention Center) di Wet Bay menuju Stasiun Katara yang merupakan akses mengunjungi Katara Cultural Village.
18.Katara Cultural Village
Doha Metro menurunkanku di stasiun Katara. Hanya perlu berjalan kaki sejauh setengah kilometer untuk sampai di Katara Cultural Village, sebuah pusat budaya di Qatar. Terletak di pantai timur antara West Bay dan The Pearl, perkampungan budaya ini telah berdiri sejak sepuluh tahun lalu.
Katara sendiri adalah nama untuk Qatar sebelum Abad ke-18. Kata “Catara” pada seratus tahun pertama Masehi disematkan untuk menamai Semenanjung Qatar yang terletak di selatan Teluk Persia.
19.Aspire Park
Eksplorasi hari ketigaku di Qatar kumulai sedikit siang. Menunggu matahari meninggi, karena aku akan bermain di area terbuka, yaitu Aspire Park. Nama taman yang diambil dari nama sebuah area, yaitu Aspire Zone yang merupakan nama beken dari Doha Sports City di Distrik Baaya.
Karwa Bus bernomor 301 menurunkanku di Villaggio Shelter Bus tepat jam 11:44. Aku berjalan kaki menuju taman yang terletak di barat Qatar itu. Aspire Park adalah taman indah nan luas yang melengkapi diri dengan playground, air mancur, beberapa coffee shop bahkan menciptakan satu-satunya danau di Qatar.
20.The Torch Doha
Masih di Aspire Zone Complex, melangkah sedikit ke timur, aku tepat berada di bawah sebuah hotel setinggi 300 meter. Sering disebut dengan panggilan Aspire Tower, walaupun nama resminya adalah The Torch Doha.
Adalah buah karya konsultan arsitektur dari Perancis, inilah bangunan yang saat ini masih menjadi yang tertinggi di Doha. Hotel 36 lantai ini telah menyumbang jasanya untuk Qatar sebagai focal point (titik fokus) pada perhelatan Asian Games ke-15.
21.Khalifa International Stadium
Khalifa International Stadium disandingkan tepat di sebelah The Torch Doha. Sering dipanggil dengan nama National Stadium. Seperti bandara megah mereka, gelanggang sepakbola ini juga mencatut nama Emir Qatar Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani. Inilah kandang resmi tim nasional sepakbola Qatar dengan empat puluh ribu kapasitas tempat duduk.
Di empui oleh Qatar Football Association, stadion ini adalah saksi dimana Australia dijungkalkan oleh pasukan samurai biru dengan gol tunggal Tadanari Lee pada perhelatan final AFC Asian Cup 2011.
22.Villaggio Mall
Kunjungan di Doha Sports City, kuakhiri dengan memasuki Villaggio Mall. Mall di pinggiran Al Waab Street ini dikembangkan oleh Gondolania Entertainment, oleh karenanya konsep wisata gondola di kota Venice di adopsi di pusat perbelanjaan satu lantai ini.
Didesain di dalamnya canal indoor sepanjang 150 meter lengkap dengan perahu gondola, mengingatkanku ketika mengunjungi The Venetian di Macau 3 tahun silam.
Retailer utama di Villaggio Mall adalah Carrefour, akan tetapi pusat perbelanjaan ini juga mengakomodasi 200 toko yang menjual brand-brand ternama asal Amerika, Inggris, Italia dan Jerman. Yuk, yang hobby belanja, silahkan mampir ke sini !
23.Al Koot Fort
Hari keempat, aku berniat menelusuri area MDD (Mshreib Downtown Doha) yaitu sebuah kota pengganti Distrik Mushayrib yang pengembangannya direncanakan dengan detail.
Tetapi sebelum memasuki area MDD, aku sempatkan mampir di Al Koot Fort yang telah berusia 93 tahun. Adalah jasa dari Emir keempat Qatar, Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani yang membangun benteng ini dengan tujuan melindungi Souq Waqif dari kelompok pencuri terkenal pada waktu itu.
Setelah mampir di Al Koot Fort atau Doha Fort ini, barulah aku melangkah memasuki area MDD. Yuk lihat ada apa saja di MDD ?
24.Msheireb Museum
Tempat wisata utama yang kukunjungi di Mshreib Downtown Doha adalah Msheireb Museum yang dikembangkan oleh Msheireb Properties (Pengembang Real Estate Nasional Qatar). Aku dengan tekunnya menelusuri empat rumah warisan bersejarah yang menjadi bagian utama dari Msheireb Museum. Yaitu Bin Jelmood House yang mengungkap sejarah perdagangan budak di negeri itu, Company House yang mengungkap kisah para pioneer pekerja industri minyak Qatar, Mohammed Bin Jassim House yang merupakan rumah yang dibangun oleh putra pendiri Qatar, Sheikh Mohammed bin Jassim Al Thani serta Radwani House yang merupakan duplikasi model rumah asli Qatar.
Kalau kalian ke Qatar, wajib datang ke sini ya….Free ticket kok, santuy….
25. Msheireb Tram
Menaiki Msheireb Tram adalah cara mudah untuk menikmati keindahan MDD. Transportasi massal ini diluncurkan oleh Msheireb Properties dengan loop track sepanjang dua kilometer dan mampu menghubungkan setiap spot di MDD dalam waktu delapan belas menit saja.
Kamu harus merasakan nyamannya tram listrik buatan Amerika yang menggunakan filtering glass panel yang katanya mampu mencegah masuknya sinar matahari ke dalam ruangan tram hingga 90%.
26. Doha Free Metrolink
Sebelum meninggalkan Qatar, di hari terakhir aku mencoba menjajal Doha Metrolink yang merupkan jaringan feeder bus untuk mengkoneksi siapapun dengan Doha Metro Station dalam radius dua hingga lima kilometer.
Tidak dipungut biaya dalam memanfaatkan jasa feeder bus ini. Pemerintah Qatar menyediakan empat puluh dua jalur Doha Free Metrolink yang beroperasi dari jam enam pagi hingga jam sebelas malam.
Jika kalian mau berwisata hemat di Qatar, carilah hotel yang dilalui oleh rute bus ini. Apalagi kalau hotelnya agak jauh dari pusat kota, pasti akan lebih menghemat kantongmu….Hihihi.
Semoga pandemi COVID-19 ini segera berakhi dan kamu bisa segera melancong ke Qatar….Amin.
