West Sumatra Tourism

Ontel bicycle in Pavilion of Bung Hatta Birthplace Museum

16 July 202016 July 2020travelingpersecond

The combination of yellow, blue and orange was slightly tarnished by peeling of Banto Trade Center wall paint. But that wasn’t the focus, Ramlan Nurmatias and Joko Widodo’s handshake had stunned me. It seems that the Mayor and the number one person of my country have agreed on laying the first stone of Ateh Market revitalization project….Apparently, Bukittinggi is actively building.

Meanwhile, Banto Trade Center courtyard was be a trader area for selling vegetables on their cart and motorbike. Then far ahead, still in Soekarno Hatta Street, a golden plaque “Adipura Kencana” is upheld by a single white pole. Shows that this city is recognized for cleanliness throughout the country.

Sekitar dua kilometer sajalah, avku tiba di sebuah mulut gang. “Gg Komp Sabar” begitulah aksara dalam plat nama berwarna hijau yang ditegakkAbout two kilometers away, I arrived at an alleyway. “Gang Kompleks Sabar” were words in a green name plate which was placed on a black pole with a bigger size with thick white script “Museum Rumah Kelahiran Bung Hatta Proklamator RI, Jl. Soekarno Hatta No. 37 Bukittinggi“

For eleven years, Bung Hatta lived in this house.

It is a duplication of original house architecture which if it still stands, it will be 160 years old. Unfortunately it had collapsed in the 60’s, but upon the chairman idea of Bung Hatta Education Foundation, it was rebuilt.

Built according to its original curves, according to its picture in memoirs and various family-owned documentation. In general, this house can also describe situation and past life of Bukittinggi society and especially Bung Hatta’s family.

Main Building

This Bukittingi’s typical house consists of main building, pavilion, rice barn, kitchen, horse stable and fish pond.

The main building itself consists of two floors and is at forefront of house area. The main building serves to receive guests, family dining room and bedroom of Bung Hatta’s mother, uncle and grandfather.

Here’s a glimpse of booths on main building’s second floor:

Floor 1.

Floor 2.

Bung Hatta’s parents’ room, in this room Bung Hatta was born.

Pavilion

Behind the main building, a pavilion was built. This white wall building was used for kitchen, Bung Hatta’s bedroom, bathroom, horse stable and hansom cab room. From his bedroom, Bung Hatta began his education at Europese Lageree School (ELS) Bukittinggi. In his room is also stored bicycle which was often used Bung Hatta everyday. It was given by his parents since he was 8 years old.

Bung Hatta’s room near rice barn. Called as “*Ruang Bujang*“.

He lived with his grandfather, Syech Adurrachman, also known as Syech Batuhampar. His grandfather himself worked as a private post contractor.

At the end of my visitation, I was curious about Ma’ Etek Ayub profile as someone who helped Bung Hatta in continuing school, his profession was “Time Trade Practice”. Confused by this profession type, I asked to an elderly woman who worked to took care of this whole house.

Hansom cab as Bung Hatta’s vehicle to school.

Rice Barn

Like as past era houses, when this nation was still experiencing economic difficulties. Rice granaries are an effort to ensure family food security.

After completing his primary education, Bung Hatta continued his secondary education at Meer Uitgebred Lager Onderwijs (MULO) or secondary school in Padang City.

Janjang Ampek Puluah, Integration Manifestation in Colonial Era

12 July 20205 July 2020travelingpersecond

Moving from Bung Hatta Proclamator Monument Park, I moved down along Istana Street, across Plaza Bukittinggi, greeting Gadang Clock Tower, treading on Minangkabau Street and then entering Cindua Mato Street.

A step later, I entered Pasar Atas. Most of stalls were still closed because I was too early to visited it. There was nothing I could do, only a few stalls which were preparing to open, marked by its owners who was busy arranging their trade goods.

Now I was at a gate with a view of steep steps, two tigers guard it on either side, while at lower end was seen a bit of trading crowd, maybe that was Banto Market.

I slowly descended while my mouth muttering count numbers….It’s true, forty steps. These rows of stairs are known as Janjang Ampek Puluah. It is said that forty symbolizes number of Niniak Mamak members.

Brilliant thinking for Louis Constant Westenenk (Agam Resident Assistant/Controleur Agam) who collaborated with Niniak Mamak (Minangkabau Customary Institution) in sparking an idea to integrated of Pasar Atas (Upper Market) – Pasar Bawah (Lower market) – Banto Market in early 20th century. At that time, Janjang became a popular facility in market connectivity. The thinking power of leaders at that time was really squeezed in order to organize Bukittinggi city which had a hilly and uneven topography.

I arrived at lower gate with four poles and European style, also with a large signboard “Janjang Ampek Puluah“. After all, I finally knew that this lower gate was a new construction, complementing the upper gate which had already existed.

The Lower Gate was seen from T-junction of Pemuda Street, Perintis Kemerdekaan Street and Soekarno Hatta Street.

While at inner side of lower gate, there is an inscription which contains a brief history of legendary Janjang existence as high as 5 meters and 4.6 meters in wide which was built in the past.

I was still staring at the elegance of this colonial era integration facility, while residents seemed to be moving up and down at Janjang. I really didn’t want to leave this area quickly, stunned to think of how form of this area when Janjang hadn’t been built, maybe where I stood was still in the form of steep hills which separating three market activities.

Janjang Ampek Puluah is just one of many Janjang in Bukittinggi. Apparently Colonial Government was quite serious in integrating all city economic spots at that time. You need to know that there are still Janjang Saribu, Janjang Koto Gadang and Janjang Pasanggrahan in the town which called as Fort de Kock in its past time.

At outer side of gate, public transportations start to generating city pulse. The appearance of imperious Banto Trade Center increasingly shows that the surrounding area can be relied upon as a driving force for city’s economy.

Okay let’s continue….If you go straight ahead, what else is there?

Bung Hatta Proclamator Monument Park and Its Unpretentious Story

8 July 20208 July 2020travelingpersecond

One hour I have peeled heroic story in Unknown Hero Monument. Now I would study other history in a different park. It’s precisely east across of that dragon-shaped black monument. Only need to cross for a moment on Istana Street.

From a signboard display at park front gate, apparently West Sumatra was preparing to hold a race series belonging to Union Cycliste International on a week ahead.

The 9th Tour de Singkarak, the fifth ranked bicycle race in the world.

Climbing twenty-two black stairs, I reached park courtyard. Named as Bung Hatta Proclamator Monument Park, this park features a intact statue of Mohammad Hatta in his four-pocket safari dress who with his charisma waved his right hand toward a T-junction of Istana Street, Haji Agus Salim Street and Sudirman Street.

If I had been under road surface when I was at Unknown Hero Monument, now I was high above road surface when I visited Bung Hatta Proclamator Monument Park. Two days exploring the city, it began to realize that I was sometimes briefly down, then suddenly I was on high. It isn’t Bukittinggi if it don’t like that.

Looks behind the statue, there are three wall pages which tell the story of a character struggle whose real name is Mohammad Ibn ‘Atta.

On the first wall page, you can see Bung Hatta’s life in his simple house, Hatta story who studying Islam at Batuampar and then continuing his education at MULO (Meer Uitgebreid Lager Onderwijs).

On second wall page, It is tell about a time when Hatta led “Perhimpunan Indonesia” Organization in Netherlands when he studied.

The first and second pages are on right side of Mohammad Hatta statue.

Third wall page is a beautiful period when Hatta managed to proclaim Indonesia independence with Ir. Soekarno on August 17th, 1945 until his struggling from one negotiating table to another negotiating one for world’s recognition of proclaimed independence.

And like a normal scenario, fourth wall page is Hatta’s retirement from his political world to the time when he received an award from President Soeharto (The second president of Indonesia).

Streets have seemed crowded with activities, one by one residents who were exercising seemed to visit this park to just cool down after jogging, sat relaxed at park and took a picture with Bung Hatta statue which became pride figure of small city of Bukittinggi.

The park still looked wet as rest of heavy rain overnight.

Just thirty minutes for me to visited this park. I would continue Bukittinggi exploration by visiting Janjang Ampek Puluah, a connecting market link which is quite famous in this city’s tourism.

Sudirman Street situation was starting to get crowded with vehicles.

Come on….Continued to walk again….

Opposing Colonial Tax in Version of Unknown Heroes Monument

4 July 202029 June 2020travelingpersecond

There was only Noah who snoring flounder due to residual effects of drunk last night at De Kock Cafe’s 1st floor. I tried to remain quiet to bath under shower at edge of room. Even until I was ready to wander, his snoring didn’t change at all.

Cafe’s 1st floor remained wide open without a guard when I left hotel in half-dark, quiet and still cold.

Down through same road when yesterday afternoon hunting for the charm of Gadang Clock Tower, only this time, I was alone who looked very rushed in the quiet of morning.

Nagari Bank and Novotel were once again overtaken without expression, I had seen them yesterday afternoon. Likewise, I passed Gadang Clock Tower without any impression. Same, maybe because I snatched its charm a day ago. I just thought to immediately landing my step in a city park.

However, before entering the park, I was a little interested in the charm of a golden yellow large building. It is Balai Sidang Bung Hatta as mainstay Convention Center in Bukittinggi city.

On 7:10 hours, I began to enter the park which is located under Istana Street surface in west. While a gray high building which is owned by Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) Bukittinggi limited my eyes to east.

Park focal point lies in an artistic black monument in its middle circle. That’s the Unknown Heroes Monument which was designed by sculpture artists from Padang Panjang City, i.e Hoerijah Adam. Hoerijah Adam name itself was later enshrined as a name of Dance Workshop in Taman Ismail Marzuki, Jakarta after Merpati Nusantara airplane accident of Vickers Viscount type which she rode in the Indian Ocean.

This monument was built to commemorate heroes resistance who couldn’t be identified with certainty in opposing Dutch Colonialism on June 5th, 1905. The resistance itself was due to application rejection of a 2% income tax for natives over all forms of trade which they undertaken.

The monument which is form of a dragon circle.

Laying of the first stone was carried out by General Abdul Haris Nasution on June 15th, 1963 who was then serving as Chief of Armed Forces Staff. And two years later this monument was inaugurated.

On one side of monument, there is a loud quote from a famous writer who is also an Indonesia National Hero, none other than Muhammad Yamin:

“Noble Dead without Tomb

Deciding Soul and Leaving Name

Become Cloud in Space

Becoming Froth in Ocean

Spread Out Its Fragrant in Air“

As it turned out, Bukittinggi kept a lot of history of nation struggle which I had only just found out after visiting it.

It was fun….Backpacking while getting to know about nation history.

Following Sermon with Backpacker Style in Bukittinggi Grand Mosque.

30 June 202020 June 2020travelingpersecond

I instantly realized that I hadn’t fulfilled yet Maghrib Prayer. While time had shown at 19:10 hours and prayer sounds had disappeared since earlier. Then time forced me to immediately move from Bukittinggi Plaza courtyard.

Walking through Cinduo Mato Street, I didn’t find a crowd like I imagined. Many shops on either side of road had begun to close its door. Only few shops still opened because they still had to serve some customer who passing through on streets.

I arrived at Bukittinggi Grand Mosque. A holy building with eight arched windows on second floor. Right on road side and marked by a green glowing tower in one of its front corners.

The front yard of Bukittinggi Grand Mosque.

Entering its terrace area, one thing which attracted my attention was concrete seating provision for women on left side, while men seating was placed on right wing. Separation began since entering its terrace.

I fulfilled Maghrib Prayer on red carpet, while other worshipers were solemnly listening sermon from religious leader who preached from pulpit. I calmed my mind, sat cross-legged and watered my hard heart with heavenly advice, something I rarely followed.

Ostad’s sermon which I followed to the end.

I went out with congregation, the Adam and Eve folk regularly came out on track. Married couples left the mosque one by one by riding motorbikes, some rode bicycles. While youths were seemed to entering narrow alleys towards their homes.

The end of Canduo Mato Street was gradually deserted. Bright shades of shophouses began to be abandoned by visitors. While some traders were still patient waiting for remaining buyers who would came.

Hunting for crowds, I crossed Minangkabau Street then entered Ahmad Yani Street. I really found it. Parking lots along shophouses were still packed with four-wheeled vehicles, making me even more excited to postpone my returning to the inn.

I continued to step past a T-junction which is cuted by Ahmad Karim Street from south left. Then continued with found tent stalls which lined lengthwise on one side of Ahmad Yani Street with Limpapeh Bridge view which was full of lights.

Row of culinary stalls along Ahmad Yani Street.

Satay scent which a minute ago was completely chewed by sense of taste, instantly drove out drowsiness which clung my eyelids since Ostad’s heavenly sermon at Bukittinggi Great Mosque.

Continued with displacing meatball bench to a coffee maker, my time slowly depleted at the same time with increasingly disappearing of “iron horses” bustles with vehicle license plate BA.

Temperature degree that night quickly diminished, I who didn’t wear jacket really felt Bukittinggi cold air, forced me to immediately withdrawed from street and slowly walked towards the inn. Tomorrow I would early wake up and walking around the city in early morning.

Memasuki lantai satu penginapan, Noah, Si Insinyur Amerika itu mEntering the first floor of hotel, Noah, an american engineer waved his right hand and greeted me with a big smile. A large beer bottle was in his left hand. “I will sleep early“, I told him. He raised his right thumb while saying a short word, “See you tomorrow”.

Good night Bukittinggi.

Staying at De Kock Hotel, Hunting the Gadang Clock Tower

26 June 202026 June 2020travelingpersecond

Driver: “Donny, just get off here, okay? This car will turn to right, then car will run further away from downtown“.

Me: “Oh Okay, Uda. No problem for me“

I was lowered by Annanta Travel on Veteran Street, I sat for a moment and stretched muscle stiffness after sitting in the back seat for eight hours. The white statue of Tuanku Imam Bonjol on his horse became the first sight which entertained my arrival in Bukittinggi. The “Paderi War” Leader spreaded charisma, valiantly without sound.

T-junction of Veteran Street, Pemuda Street (left) and Ahmad Yani Street (right).

After two days felt scalding heat in Pekanbaru, now I enjoyed Bukittinggi’s cool air. Now I was free to direct my camera to every where without sun sting. I had to occasionally stop because city contours which are up and down, making me gasped for breath with backpack’s burden on my back.

Entering Teuku Umar Street, which began to decline.

From a distance, I continued to look each other with a young blond girl who was sitting to enjoying the afternoon on big motorcycle. I predicted that she was precisely sitting in front of De Kock Hotel where I would stay in it.

It was true, arrived right at the big motorcycle was parked, I was confronted to hotel lobby in the form of a cafe, then young girl followed me and hurried to reception desk. It seemed like she was a hotel staff on duty that afternoon.

I would sleep on second floor of that simple dormitory.

Me: “Hi. Were you in Samosir four days ago?, I think that we stayed at a similar hotel, Bagus Bay Homestay”.

Noah: “Oh really? Yes, I was in Samosir four days ago”.

Me: “I’m Donny. I am an Indonesian traveler. What is your name?”.

Noah: “I’m Noah form California”.

Me: “Are you on vacation, No? What do you do in America?”.

Noah: “Yes, I’m on vacation. I am an engineer at oil company. What is your job in Indonesia? “.

Me: “Marketing”.

Noah: “What marketing?”.

Me: “I work in field, meet customers, and sell products”.

Noah: “Oh, you aren’t marketing. You are a sales. How about your income? Good income? I work with good income but with high risk in America … hahahaha”.

Me:” Yes, of course, I’m a salesman. I got a lot of money from my work”.

That was Noah, my new friend in Bukittinggi. Incidentally we were the only two who staying in the dormitory room with five single beds.

—-****—-

I sat in the lobby, a medium-sized bottle of Coca Cola managed to freeze my sweat after walking in a kilometer. That afternoon I intend to visit Gadang Clock Tower which is only half a kilometer to northwest of hotel.

Around 17:30 hours, I started to moving and carrying camera towards Gadang Clock Tower. I chose to walk through Yos Sudarso Street which tends to be flat and then descending on Istana Street.

Directly across from Novotel is Bukittinggi Plaza. I just quietly stood in mall courtyard to enjoy the beauty of Gadang Clock Tower. Sabai Nun Aluih Park, which was under the clock tower, was covered with a tight project’ iron sheeting. Apparently, There was park renovation.

96-years-old clock dedicated to secretary of Fort de Kock (old name of Bukittinggi).

As its name “Gadang” which in Minang language means “Large”, this clock tower is twenty-six meters in high with four 128-years-old twin clocks which was directly brought from Rotterdam via Bayur Port.

Operated by a Brixlion engine whose its twin is in Big Ben, London.

Was designed by Radjo Mangkuto, Gadang Clock Tower was made with 4 levels. The lowest level is the officer’s room, second level contains a clock’s ballast pendulum. Clock is placed on third level and the uppest level is tower top where clock’s bell are placed.

I was happy, being able to see Gadang Clock Tower which since I was a little boy, I only knew it through my elementary school textbook.

Annanta Travel from Pekanbaru to Bukittinggi

18 June 20205 June 2020travelingpersecond

The last evening in Pekanbaru became a nostalgic session in durian aroma and a savory portion of fried Malon (Manuk Londo-a type of quail) which looked plump on a plate. This was a meeting which I deliberately prepared with a durian businessman that I didn’t know how long we didn’t meet, before leaving Pekanbaru tomorrow.

—-****—-

Morning came together with chewing toast from Ganda Bakery, which remained since my arrival in Madani City (other name of Pekanbaru), tasteless but still quite delicious to eat.

Smartphone ring which I was waiting for finally arrived.

“Is this Donny?“, he shortly said.

“Annanta Travel, Sir?“, I briefly replied and asked.

“Yes, Don. What is an easy landmark to find the hotel?”, he asked in detail.

Quickly reflex, I ran to reception desk and handed my smartphone to the staff on duty. Somehow the staff explained to driver. As I understood, they spoke in Minang language.

Ten minutes later, a black Kijang (Toyota’s varian) which labeled “ANNANTA” stopped its engine roar in Sri Indrayani Hotel courtyard. Saying thanks to reception staff, I left the lobby and entered travel car in right rear seat.

*Snack and mineral water provided by travel agency.*

“Do you understand Javanese language, Uda (mention for brother in West Sumatra)?“, I was curious because driver played Didi Kempot’s song which stored on his blue flashdisk.

“Ah, I don’t really understand, Donny. Just tunable to listen it“, he was laughing.

“Ha ha ha“, I laughed off.

I became the first passenger who he picked up. I just enjoyed every step on gas pedal into narrow alleys and streets in some housing complexs to pick up five other passengers. On second taking, I finally found my seat couple, a smiling grandmother who only could speak Minang language. Meanwhile, the last passenger was a stocky young man who seated in the front seat next to driver.

222 km journey would be taken in 7 hours interval and through the famous Kampar River. Pekanbaru-Bangkinang highway was like a street race track like Monaco Circuit. Annanta Travel was so swiftly moving among heavy and slow-goods trucks. Grandmother who sat next to me only occasionally smiled to face me while enjoying this single race.

Entering Payakumbuh City, I kept awake. Didn’t want to lose a brief moment when passing a scenic spot. It was none other than Kelok Sembilan. I was so fascinated when I crossed this overpass, along 2.5 km and as high as 58 meters. Tall, dashing and charming to everyone who passes it.

Fascinated when Marshall Sastra and David John Schaap peeled it off on a Indonesian TV program “My Trip My Adventure”.

Overland journey for USD 11.8 passed 4 Regencies (Kampar, Rokan Hulu, Lima Puluh Kota and Tanah Datar) and 3 Cities (Pekanbaru, Payakumbuh and Bukittinggi) and leaved a natural beauty which is tempting to my eyes.

A trip which only provided a lunch break. This morning toast wasn’t longer able to withstand hunger, even wind had acquired my stomach. That afternoon, Minang’s typical black rendang (West Sumatra’s typical meat with spices) became my dining companion. This was the first time I felt rendang in its origin land.

Annanta Travel, “The Fast” from Sumatra.

Uwan Labuak Bangku Restaurant in Lima Puluh Kota Regency.

Rain began to fall when the trip entered Bukittinggi City through Tanah Datar District. I started to get ready to got off, because Annanta Travel have last destination in Padang. I was dropped off at Veteran Street, right at T-junction with Tuanku Imam Bonjol (Indonesian national hero) Monument in the middle.

Towards dark, I must head to De Kock Hotel.