Bet with rain, I left Kinantan Zoo. I think it would be very disadvantage to just let go of Bukittinggi’s natural fracture charm. Going through same path as I entered Fort de Kock, Limpapeh Bridge and TMSBK, now I was standing again at front gate of that square fort.
A young age man came with a smile approaching me. He was an online motorcycle taxi that I was waiting to take me for next destination. On fast journey, he said “Brother, your signal will be bad at valley , if you want to be picked up after finishing your visitation, I’m ready to take“. Because my habit that doesn’t want to be rushed in enjoy something, especially about the beauty of nature, I refuse it subtle.
Dr. Abdul Rivai Street had finished to be passed until the end. That is the road name to remember a “Bumiputera (local people)” who had fought against Dutch colonialism through journalism realm. Next, the road started to sharply swoop when I turned to the right.
One kilometer swoop down trip presented a breathtaking view of valleys on either side of Binuang Street. Janjang Koto Gadang like a Great Wall of China miniature looked in a flash of eyes. I didn’t have time to visit it because I had to bet with travel services schedule to Padang.
“Welcome to Kenagarian Sianok Anam Suku“, written at top of a gate which is located precisely in middle of bridge which connecting two valley sides which is cut off by Batang Sianok River. On right pillar told that I was in Sub-Districts IV Koto, while the left one told that I was in Agam Districts.
The twenty meter wide river never seemed to be angry with spilling flood. My estimation is very reasonable with existence of semi-permanent and even permanent buildings in river banks. And somehow, sandy soil deposits in the middle of river were delivered from some where by river currents.
I can’t imagine how two sides of cliff that were originally fused then shifted in opposite direction to form a perfectly perpendicular fracture and created an elongated valley which was then invaded by water to form a natural river.
And…. Heavy rain was really falling…..
Made me to escape from canyon and looked for a shelter. “Gulai Itiak Lado Mudo Ngarai” restaurant terrace became a comfortable place to shelter even though I was closely watched by its owner. Finally I dared myself to ask permission for temporarily took shelter .
It was true, I really didn’t get a phone signal to call a online motorcycle taxi when it started to rain. I tried to find a higher place and then get two signal cell bars. I struggled to order an online motorcycle taxi that was repeatedly rejected. Until finally, on fifth call I was picked up by a middle-aged woman with her scooter matic and delivered me to my last destination in Bukittinggi.
“There’s still time“….Inner continued to force steps.
TMSBK ticket was grasped, then at the end of Fort de Kock I saw a crowd on next hill. While the mind continued to imagine an exquisite Sianok canyon, while a iconic suspension bridge welcomed me at front.
I couldn’t dodge its charm…..
Six Gonjong Roofs in the center, four giant steel strands hold bridge deck along 90 meters. Connecting two strong hills which are quite popular in Bukittinggi, namely Jirek Hill and Cubudak Bungkuak Hill with 3 meters footing width.
Is Limpapeh Bridge which looked mighty straddling on Ahmad Yani Street. It had played a role for about 28 years in connecting Kinantan Wildlife and Cultural Park (TMSBK) with Fort de Kock fortress area.
“Limpapeh” itself means “Centre Pillar“. The uniqueness of this bridge is besides in structure centre, its twin pillars also limit both sides of Ahmad Yani Street so that it form a welcome gate for city guests on its protocol road.
Whereas on my second visitation on my first night, alphabets board “Limpapeh Bridge” which glowed bright red was decorated with a splash of purple light on both of its twin pillars. Really become city gate which is very beautiful in eyes view.
Like Janjang which is spread in many city corners, this beautiful link is also a integration manifestation of city facilities. That are a Fort de Kock tourism and Wildlife Cultural Park Kinantan (TMSBK) tourism which are be exposed objects from construction reason of this bridge. It makes easy for tourists to exploring in the city with its nicknamed Parijs van Sumatra.
In order to maintain security and maintain bridge’s age of use, venue management only allows a maximum of 200 visitors who can simultaneously be on this bridge and each visitor can only take pictures on the bridge for a maximum of 3 minutes. Okay….Let’s obey the rules if you visit it !….Hehehe.
Finally I had an opportunity to enjoy views of this tiny city which had ever been Indonesia capital from a height. Not skyscrapers which appeared in view, but an expanse of citizen’s houses, commercial shops which extend along Ahmad Yani Street curves and green trees dominance which are relied upon as a water catchment area of the city.
Being a sensation when you are on the bridge in a condition which alway sway as a main characteristic of suspension bridge. Being a satisfaction when enjoying the charm of Bukittinggi from the bridge which became a city’s flagship icon after its first icon, i.e Gadang Clock Tower.
So….You have to come here if you travel to Bukittinggi.
I was still staring at Bung Hatta Birth House from sidewalk of Soekarno Hatta Street, not willing to leave it, but I kept thinking about how a work team built a replica of that house precisely because the original house had collapsed in 1962 ago.
Stepping back towards the direction which I originally came, I turned onto Pemuda Street after passing through Banto Trade Center. My legs were still strong when faced with a swerving long road, I was willing to follow it because my eyes were spoiled with a stretch of green rice fields and typical “Gonjong” roof architecture which adorns official government buildings.
Looked like my trip would rotate and increasingly climb, my legs were no longer able after five days before always rely on it to explore Sumatra Island.
It was time to called online transportation to reach Fort de Kock front gate. In less than five minutes of riding it, I climbed Jirek Hill and arrived at fort front gate.
“Wekom in Fort De Kock”…..
Past the gate, “Family Benteng Indah” restaurant was the first greeter, then forwarded by ticket sales counter. Even though, I visited Fort de Kock, the venue which was written on ticket was Wildlife Cultural Park Kinantan with its price listed about USD 1.1.
After passing ticket check point, food stalls stood in line on right side. Then a cage of an endemic Chinese pigeon type “Junai Mas” was placed at its end. After that, I could see original shape of the fort.
Fort Fort Kock was established by Captain Bauer as dome of Dutch East Indies Government in facing of people resistance in Padri War which was led by Tuanku Imam Bonjol. This war itself erupted in first quarter of 19th Century. At that time, Boan Hendrick Markus de Kock was the commander of Der Troepen and Deputy Governor General of Dutch East Indies Government. This is where the name “Fort de Kock” originated.
The main building of the fort which is no more than 400 square meters looks small but is very strong physically and strategically. In physical form, this fort has a good wall thickness. And strategically, the fort is tough because it is located right at hill top, making it easy for anyone to observe all movements of enemy around.
I tried to continue to imagine how great Tuanku Imam Bonjol actions in leading Padri people against Dutch Colonialism. Until Netherlands had to build this fort to secure its power from threat of this charismatic leader.
Driver: “Donny, just get off here, okay? This car will turn to right, then car will run further away from downtown“.
Me: “Oh Okay, Uda. No problem for me“
I was lowered by Annanta Travel on Veteran Street, I sat for a moment and stretched muscle stiffness after sitting in the back seat for eight hours. The white statue of Tuanku Imam Bonjol on his horse became the first sight which entertained my arrival in Bukittinggi. The “Paderi War” Leader spreaded charisma, valiantly without sound.
After two days felt scalding heat in Pekanbaru, now I enjoyed Bukittinggi’s cool air. Now I was free to direct my camera to every where without sun sting. I had to occasionally stop because city contours which are up and down, making me gasped for breath with backpack’s burden on my back.
From a distance, I continued to look each other with a young blond girl who was sitting to enjoying the afternoon on big motorcycle. I predicted that she was precisely sitting in front of De Kock Hotel where I would stay in it.
It was true, arrived right at the big motorcycle was parked, I was confronted to hotel lobby in the form of a cafe, then young girl followed me and hurried to reception desk. It seemed like she was a hotel staff on duty that afternoon.
Me: “Hi. Were you in Samosir four days ago?, I think that we stayed at a similar hotel, Bagus Bay Homestay”.
Noah: “Oh really? Yes, I was in Samosir four days ago”.
Me: “I’m Donny. I am an Indonesian traveler. What is your name?”.
Noah: “I’m Noah form California”.
Me: “Are you on vacation, No? What do you do in America?”.
Noah: “Yes, I’m on vacation. I am an engineer at oil company. What is your job in Indonesia? “.
Noah: “What marketing?”.
Me: “I work in field, meet customers, and sell products”.
Noah: “Oh, you aren’t marketing. You are a sales. How about your income? Good income? I work with good income but with high risk in America … hahahaha”.
Me:” Yes, of course, I’m a salesman. I got a lot of money from my work”.
That was Noah, my new friend in Bukittinggi. Incidentally we were the only two who staying in the dormitory room with five single beds.
I sat in the lobby, a medium-sized bottle of Coca Cola managed to freeze my sweat after walking in a kilometer. That afternoon I intend to visit Gadang Clock Tower which is only half a kilometer to northwest of hotel.
Around 17:30 hours, I started to moving and carrying camera towards Gadang Clock Tower. I chose to walk through Yos Sudarso Street which tends to be flat and then descending on Istana Street.
Directly across from Novotel is Bukittinggi Plaza. I just quietly stood in mall courtyard to enjoy the beauty of Gadang Clock Tower. Sabai Nun Aluih Park, which was under the clock tower, was covered with a tight project’ iron sheeting. Apparently, There was park renovation.
As its name “Gadang” which in Minang language means “Large”, this clock tower is twenty-six meters in high with four 128-years-old twin clocks which was directly brought from Rotterdam via Bayur Port.
Was designed by Radjo Mangkuto, Gadang Clock Tower was made with 4 levels. The lowest level is the officer’s room, second level contains a clock’s ballast pendulum. Clock is placed on third level and the uppest level is tower top where clock’s bell are placed.
I was happy, being able to see Gadang Clock Tower which since I was a little boy, I only knew it through my elementary school textbook.
Walking through Veteran Street, I slowly approached De Kock Hotel to check-in. Cool and peaceful is an image in my head about Bukittinggi when I arrived.
1. Limpapeh Bridge
Halfway to hotel, I was fascinated by a suspension bridge. It is the Limpapeh Bridge which stretches over Ahmad Yani Street. It was built in 1992 and have function as a link between Wildlife Cultural Park Kinantan and Fort De Kock Fortress area. Stretching along ninety meters with approximately three meters in width, making this bridge so dashing visible from Ahmad Yani Street.
2. GadangClock Tower
A bottle of coca cola closed my check-in session as well as a starting marker for my exploration around Pasar Atas that afternoon. Walking through Yos Sudarso Street with up-down contour, my steps arrived at a phenomenal landmark which is famous throughout Indonesia.
Gadang Clock Tower, a landmark which was given by Queen Wilhelmina, looked dashing. Needed long time in waiting for different color lights to appear and illuminated entire this giant clock tower as a marker of switching from evening to night. Because of its fame, Gadang Clock Tower has been designated as Kilometer Zero Point of Bukittinggi City. “Gonjong” shaped roof or roof style which was commonly used in “Gadang House” (typical house of West Sumatra) makes this European architectural art possess a local customs wealth.
3. Bukittinggi Plaza
Major renovations at Sabai Nan Aluih Park, made me only able to enjoy the beauty of Gadang Clock Tower from mall courtyard which is located opposite this big clock tower.
Bukittinggi Plaza in the last few years had became the best mall in Bukittinggi. Ramayana (Indonesia’s prominent department stores) becomes main player which occupies seventy percent of overall mall capacity.
4. Bukittinggi Grand Mosque
Fun in enjoying the beauty of Gadang Clock Tower almost made me lose Maghrib Prayers. I tried to trace azan origin several minutes before. Heading north, I finally arrived at Bukittinggi Grand Mosque.
The mosque which in earthquake 2007 became a refuge for residents who evacuated because of damage which was caused by the massive earthquake.
5. Pasar Atas Bukittinggi
Grand mosque which is precisely located in the center of Pasar Atas (a famous market in Bukittinggi) made me interested to explore road towards Pasar Atas. Dark which continued to devour the day, made shop owners began to close them one by one.
Pasar Atas is a market which places several sellers of Kapau Rice, Ampiang Dadiah Ice and Sanjai Crackers which are favorite crackers for souvenirs which were bought by Bukittinggi visitors.
Hungry stomach has forced myself to immediately look for dinner. Dinner under Limpapeh Bridge finally closed my two hours exploration on my first night in Bukittinggi
6. Unknown Hero Monument
My second day exploration began with leaving the hotel on a quiet morning. Even residents’ activities hadn’t been seen. Quiet and cold didn’t dampen my steps to visit Unknown Heroes Monument.
This monument was built to commemorate heroes who couldn’t be identified in opposing Dutch Colonialism on 1905. The monument with a circular shaped ornament of large dragon and on its top stands a statue of a young man who holding a flag.
7. Bung Hatta Proclamator Park Monument
While across the front of monument, there is a park with a black statue of Bung Hatta. Known as Bung Hatta Proclamator Park, this park was dedicated to Mohammad Hatta, the native son of Bukittinggi who proclaimed Indonesian independence with Ir. Sukarno.
8.Janjang Ampek Puluah
Returning to Cindua Mato Street which I passed last night, I headed for a connecting stairway between Pasar Atas and Pasar Bawah also Pasar Banto (three markets in Bukittinggi). A steep concrete staircase with forty stairs which is 112-year-old. This is embodiment of public facilities integration in past time. At that time, Dutch East Indies Government and several local powers agreed to connect every market in Bukittinggi, one of which was by making janjang or stairs.
9. Bung Hatta Birthplace Museum
Coming out of lower gate and passing through Banto Trade Centre which looked unkempt, I headed to Bung Hatta residence when he was a child. Even though this house is actually only a reconstruction building, but its interior arrangement and exterior appearance are made as closely as possible to condition of the original house which has collapsed. If you want to know about life history behind Muhammad Hatta glory in his political career, then come to this place.
10. Fort De Kock
After visiting Bung Hatta Birthplace Museum, I intended to walk to Fort de Kock through Pemuda Street with quite a long climb walking and meanders from south to north. But apparently I wasn’t strong in middle of journey, I called for online transportation to drive me at Fort de Kock front gate.
Fort de Kock was built by Captain Bauer in 1825 on Jirek Hill as the defense dome of Dutch East Indies Government in facing popular resistance i.e Paderi War which led by Tuanku Imam Bonjol (Indonesia’s national hero).
11. Wildlife Cultural Park Kinantan
From Fort de Kock, I just needed to cross Limpapeh Suspension Bridge to a famous zoo in Bukittinggi.
Wildlife Cultural Park Kinantan is one of the oldest zoos in Indonesia and the only one in West Sumatra with the most complete collection of animals on Sumatra island.
12. Baanjuang Traditional House Museum
As the zoo grew, in 1935 the Baanjuang Traditional House was built in it.
Functioned as a museum, this traditional house is dedicated to elevating the traditional culture of Minangkabau people. Its inside were exhibited various clothes, jewelries and typical Minang art tools.
Not far away….In northeast of the zoo, there is a Zoological Museum with Sumatran tiger and goldfish as its icons. The museum was established in conjunction with a similar museum at Bogor in 1894. Two thousand species of animal are preserved and exhibited in this museum.
I left Fort de Kock from its entrance. My next destination was Sianok Canyon. A valley formed by natural fracture, has a wall which is perpendicular to Sianok River which flowing in the middle. But it was unfortunate that the rain fell so heavily. After getting off from an online motorcycle taxi, I felt like I was hopeless and just waited for rain to stop. Under a tree, I continued to observe valley in a side of Sianok Canyon.
15. Japanese Tunnel
The rain began to thin but still never let up. It caused my hope to enjoying the canyon for a longer time had to ending. I get a online motorcycle taxi with middle-aged women as the rider. Under light drizzle, I headed for Panorama Park.
Before exploring Panorama Park, I made time to explore the longest defensive hole in Asia. A Japanese tunnel made by order of Lieutenant General Moritake Tanabe, 25th Division of Japanese Army Commander. Very deep, long and amazing.
Finally the closing visit fell at Panorama Park, a large park with two entrances on edge of Panorama Steet. With a ticket for USD 1.1, I tried to enjoy this shady garden in my last seconds in Bukittinggi.
Leaving the park and returning to hotel, I prepared to go to a travel agent office to reach Padang city. On 13:00, I finally left Bukittinggi. Goodbye Bukittinggi.
So for you who intend to go to West Sumatra….Visit Bukittinggi and enjoy the cool air there.