Janjang Ampek Puluah, Integration Manifestation in Colonial Era

Moving from Bung Hatta Proclamator Monument Park, I moved down along Istana Street, across Plaza Bukittinggi, greeting Gadang Clock Tower, treading on Minangkabau Street and then entering Cindua Mato Street.

A step later, I entered Pasar Atas. Most of stalls were still closed because I was too early to visited it. There was nothing I could do, only a few stalls which were preparing to open, marked by its owners who was busy arranging their trade goods.

Quiet.

Now I was at a gate with a view of steep steps, two tigers guard it on either side, while at lower end was seen a bit of trading crowd, maybe that was Banto Market.

I slowly descended while my mouth muttering count numbers….It’s true, forty steps. These rows of stairs are known as Janjang Ampek Puluah. It is said that forty symbolizes number of Niniak Mamak members.

Legendary connecting stairs.

Brilliant thinking for Louis Constant Westenenk (Agam Resident Assistant/Controleur Agam) who collaborated with Niniak Mamak (Minangkabau Customary Institution) in sparking an idea to integrated of Pasar Atas (Upper Market) – Pasar Bawah (Lower market) – Banto Market in early 20th century. At that time, Janjang became a popular facility in market connectivity. The thinking power of leaders at that time was really squeezed in order to organize Bukittinggi city which had a hilly and uneven topography.

I arrived at lower gate with four poles and European style, also with a large signboard “Janjang Ampek Puluah“. After all, I finally knew that this lower gate was a new construction, complementing the upper gate which had already existed.

Colonial style lower gate.
The Lower Gate was seen from T-junction of Pemuda Street, Perintis Kemerdekaan Street and Soekarno Hatta Street.

While at inner side of lower gate, there is an inscription which contains a brief history of legendary Janjang existence as high as 5 meters and 4.6 meters in wide which was built in the past.

I was still staring at the elegance of this colonial era integration facility, while residents seemed to be moving up and down at Janjang. I really didn’t want to leave this area quickly, stunned to think of how form of this area when Janjang hadn’t been built, maybe where I stood was still in the form of steep hills which separating three market activities.

Janjang Ampek Puluah is just one of many Janjang in Bukittinggi. Apparently Colonial Government was quite serious in integrating all city economic spots at that time. You need to know that there are still Janjang Saribu, Janjang Koto Gadang and Janjang Pasanggrahan in the town which called as Fort de Kock in its past time.

At outer side of gate, public transportations start to generating city pulse. The appearance of imperious Banto Trade Center increasingly shows that the surrounding area can be relied upon as a driving force for city’s economy.

Okay let’s continue….If you go straight ahead, what else is there?

Following Sermon with Backpacker Style in Bukittinggi Grand Mosque.

I instantly realized that I hadn’t fulfilled yet Maghrib Prayer. While time had shown at 19:10 hours and prayer sounds had disappeared since earlier. Then time forced me to immediately move from Bukittinggi Plaza courtyard.

Walking through Cinduo Mato Street, I didn’t find a crowd like I imagined. Many shops on either side of road had begun to close its door. Only few shops still opened because they still had to serve some customer who passing through on streets.

I arrived at Bukittinggi Grand Mosque. A holy building with eight arched windows on second floor. Right on road side and marked by a green glowing tower in one of its front corners.

The front yard of Bukittinggi Grand Mosque.

Entering its terrace area, one thing which attracted my attention was concrete seating provision for women on left side, while men seating was placed on right wing. Separation began since entering its terrace.

Women’s seat behind a concrete fence.

I fulfilled Maghrib Prayer on red carpet, while other worshipers were solemnly listening sermon from religious leader who preached from pulpit. I calmed my mind, sat cross-legged and watered my hard heart with heavenly advice, something I rarely followed.

Ostad’s sermon which I followed to the end.

I went out with congregation, the Adam and Eve folk regularly came out on track. Married couples left the mosque one by one by riding motorbikes, some rode bicycles. While youths were seemed to entering narrow alleys towards their homes.

The end of Canduo Mato Street was gradually deserted. Bright shades of shophouses began to be abandoned by visitors. While some traders were still patient waiting for remaining buyers who would came.

Hunting for crowds, I crossed Minangkabau Street then entered Ahmad Yani Street. I really found it. Parking lots along shophouses were still packed with four-wheeled vehicles, making me even more excited to postpone my returning to the inn.

Ahmad Yani Street at southern end.

I continued to step past a T-junction which is cuted by Ahmad Karim Street from south left. Then continued with found tent stalls which lined lengthwise on one side of Ahmad Yani Street with Limpapeh Bridge view which was full of lights.

Row of culinary stalls along Ahmad Yani Street.
Ahhhh….Padang Satay was only USD 1.1.

Satay scent which a minute ago was completely chewed by sense of taste, instantly drove out drowsiness which clung my eyelids since Ostad’s heavenly sermon at Bukittinggi Great Mosque.

Continued with displacing meatball bench to a coffee maker, my time slowly depleted at the same time with increasingly disappearing of “iron horses” bustles with vehicle license plate BA.

Temperature degree that night quickly diminished, I who didn’t wear jacket really felt Bukittinggi cold air, forced me to immediately withdrawed from street and slowly walked towards the inn. Tomorrow I would early wake up and walking around the city in early morning.

Memasuki lantai satu penginapan, Noah, Si Insinyur Amerika itu mEntering the first floor of hotel, Noah, an american engineer waved his right hand and greeted me with a big smile. A large beer bottle was in his left hand. “I will sleep early“, I told him. He raised his right thumb while saying a short word, “See you tomorrow”.

Good night Bukittinggi.