Para Panglima Perang di Masjid Raya Nur Alam

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Satu perandaian yang tak pernah terwujud adalah memasuki Rumah Singgah Tuan Kadi. Ingin rasanya duduk menghampar di dalamnya dan menikmati untaian sejarah dalam bilik-bilik mungilnya. Secara bersamaan, keringat yang terus meleleh di pelipis mata, pelan tapi pasti meluruhkan setiap perandaian di kepalaku. Pintu-pintu rumah itu tertutup rapat seakan berkata kepadaku “Sudahlah pergi saja, cukup bagimu melihat keindahan kulit ariku saja”.

Aku pergi…..

Langkah kaki yang tak kusadari mulai sedikit terseret mengindikasikan bahwa aku perlu banyak beristirahat setelah empat hari sebelumnya menyisir Medan, Pulau Samosir dan Pematang Siantar. Tapi apa daya, keinginanku mengenal Pekanbaru mengalahkan keletihan kaki yang sesungguhnya sudah berteriak minta berhenti.

Aku mulai memasuki Jalan Kota Baru. Baut-baut raksasa, gulungan kabel-kabel tebal, selongsong pipa bekas berukuran besar tampak berserakan di deretan rumah toko yang disulap menjadi bengkel-bengkel mekanik. Setiap ayunan langkah seakan mengisi ulang semangatku untuk segera tiba di area Kampung Bukit dimana Kota Pekanbaru dirintis pada mulanya.

Di area inilah, sebidang tanah bekas pasar baru (Pekan Baharu) yang dirintis oleh Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah berdiri sebuah peninggalan istimewa yaitu masjid tertua di Provinsi Riau.

Lagi….Kubah kuning perlambang kebesaran Melayu.

Masjid yang lahir sebagai sebuah konsekuensi yang dipikulkan di pundak Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah, Sultan ke-4 yang memindahkan pusat Kesultanan Siak Sri Indrapura dari Mempura Besar ke Bukit Senapelan pada pertengahan abad XVIII.

Adalah adat Tali Berpilin Tiga  yang menjadikan Istana Raja, Balai Kerapatan Adat, dan Masjid sebagai satu kesatuan syarat yang harus dipenuhi Sang Sultan jika berniat memindahkan kesultanan. Istana Raja melambangkan pemerintahan, Balai Kerapatan Adat melambangkan adat istiadat leluhur dan Masjid sebagai perlambang agama.

Setengah kubah pada lengkung kanopi teras mengingatkanku dengan arsitektur Mughal di Taj Mahal.

Oleh Sang Sultan, Bangunan Istana diberi nama Istana Bukit, Balai Kerapatan Adat dinamai Balai Payung Sekaki dan Masjid diberi nama Masjid Alam yang diambil dari nama kecil Sang Sultan yaitu Raja Alam.

Ada yang menyebutnya dengan nama Masjid Senapelan Pekanbaru, beberapa orang menyebutnya Masjid Raya Pekanbaru.

Aku tiba di Masjid dalam keadaan Masbuq (terlambat shalat), tak mau tertinggal seluruh raka’at, aku bergegas menuju ke tempat wudhu dan segera mengikuti dua raka’at terakhir berjama’ah. Selepas menggenapkan 2 raka’at terakhir sendirian, aku mulai tertegun dengan enam tiang besar berwarna putih yang ujungnya dilapisi kubah warna emas dan tak sampai menyangga atap, bak mercusuar.

Sinar matahari yang menembus jendela-jendela kaca permanen di dinding teratas semakin menampilkan lengkung-lengkung lancip khas Persia. Sedangkan kaligrafi emas berlatar dasar hijau khas Timur Tengah tampak melingkar mengelilingi bagian dalam masjid.

Mimbar emas beratap hijau bermenara bulan sabit emas.

Keluar dari masjid aku menuju ke sisi timur menuju sebuah gerbang pemakaman. Bernama Kompleks Makam Marhum Pekan yang merupakan komplek makam para pendiri kota Pekanbaru seperti Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah (Sultan ke-4), Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (Sultan ke-5) beserta para panglima perang setianya.

Gerbang Kompleks Makam Marhum Pekan. Marhum Pekan sendiri adalah sebutan untuk Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (pendiri kota Pekanbaru).

Masjid Nur Alam adalah penutup napak tilasku tentang Kesultanaan Siak Sri Indrapura. Puas dan bahagia bisa mengenal lebih dekat tentang kesultanan tersohor di tanah Sumatera ini.

Yuk….Balik ke hotel, check-in dan makan siang!

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Taksi Hitam dari Toba ke Pematang Siantar

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Aku memasuki kamar Eloise untuk mengambil backpack  yang kutitip sejak pagi. Aku check out di pagi hari dan berlanjut mengeksplorasi Samosir seharian bersamanya. Aku berpamitan padanya dan bersiap menuju Pematang Siantar, sedangkan dia masih semalam lagi di Samosir.

Staff Bagus Bay Homestay mengarahkanku untuk menunggu ferry di pelabuhan terdekat. Berbelok ke kiri setelah keluar hotel, beberapa puluh meter kemudian, aku memasuki gang di kiri jalan. Tetap melangkah hingga tiba di sebuah warung, tepat di sisi pelabuhan.

Tigaraja Bang?, tunggu setengah jam ya!”, ucap seorang timer padaku. Setengah jam yang lebih dari cukup untuk menyantap semangkuk mie instan bertopping telur mata sapi seharga Rp. 15.000 di pojok warung.

Ferry terlihat merapat dan sang timer diam menunjuk mukaku, lalu telunjuknya bergeser menunjuk ke arah ferry. Aku faham maksudnya.

Belum juga merapat sempurna, aku melompat ke ferry. Segenap penumpang di deck kiri berteriak. “Awasssss, Banngg!”. Aku melambaikan tangan bak artis. Ternyata kemampuanku bermain perahu motor di Waduk Jatiluhur saat menjadi sales ikan budidaya karamba masihlah mumpuni.

Zoe’s Paradise Hotel (putih) dan Dumasari Hotel (merah) menatapku pergi meninggalkan Samosir.
Menuju Pelabuhan Tigaraja dalam 50 menit.

Pria berjaket jeans biru pudar menatap lekat dari kejauhan ketika aku menuruni ferry. Tak ada jalan lain untuk menghindarinya. Seperti ditunggu seorang preman yang siap menerjangku.

Siantar, Bang. Empat puluh ribu?”, ujarnya sembari membayangi langkahku. “Oh, jasa taksi”, ujarku. Mengejar Bus INTRA yang akan berangkat jam tujuh malam, aku mengiyakan saja. Dan aku dibawa ke kantor Bagus Taxi.

Kebelet pipis tapi tak kebagian toilet, ada yang kelamaan mandi….Asem.
Sopir dan penumpang pun bermusuhan lewat adu bidak kayu.

Sepertinya akulah pengisi terakhir di manifest taksi. Begitu cepat, aku sudah duduk saja di sisi kanan bangku tengah.

Tepat di kiriku, seorang bapak yang gemar merokok sepanjang perjalanan.

Avanza hitam berputar-putar mengukur jalanan untuk menjemput penumpangnya satu persatu. Penjemputan diakhiri dengan satu insiden ketika seorang ibu ketinggalan dompet di kilometer kelima perjalanan kami. Hal menjengkelkan tetapi mampu membuatku tertawa kecil. Tak ada pilihan, taksi berputar balik untuk mengambil dompet si ibu.

Meninggalkan Toba, kebutan taksi memaksaku membuka pejaman mata. Aku diajaknya meliuk-liuk menikmati indahnya pemandangan alam Simalungun. Kebun sawit, hamparan ladang, perbukitan dan lembahnya dilewati satu-persatu. Sesekali si sopir menciptakan humor, salah satunya ketika panik memasang sabuk pengaman yang tak dikenakannya bebarengan dengan penumpang di sebelah, pontang-panting memasangnya, bahkan tak berhasil hingga melewati area operasi polisi….Beruntung tak ditangkap.

Dalam satu jam 20 menit, taksi mulai memasuki tepian kota,kemudian menuju pusat kota melalui Jalan Gereja dan Jalan Merdeka dengan dua tugu sebagai landmark kota.

Tugu Adipura. Siantar pernah 4 kali menyabet penghargaan lingkungan ini.
Monumen Wahana Tata Nugraha era Soeharto, penghargaan atas apiknya tata kelola transportasi.

Bang, begitu sampai Parluasan langsung ke pool aja, hati-hati ya!”, kata Bang Erwin (teman backpacker yang tak sengaja bertemu di diatas Bus HoHo KL 2013 silam). Mungkin dia mengkhawatirkanku memasuki Parluasan yang terkenal dengan premannya. Tapi aku menanggapinya dengan santai karena aku tahu akan diturunkan tepat di depan pool bus INTRA.

Sampai…..

Mari menunggu Bang Erwin menjemputku untuk berkeliling Pematang Siantar sejenak.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Warlords in Nur Alam Grand Mosque

A assumption which never materialized was to entering Tuan Kadi Halfway House. I wanted to sit relax in it and enjoyed history strands in its small cubicles. Simultaneously, sweat which had continued to melt in my temples, slowly but surely shed every assumption in my head. House doors were tightly closed as if it said to me “Just go, enough for you to just see my beauty“.

I went…..

Footsteps which I was unconscious began to little bit drag, indicating that I needed a lot of rest after four days before in exploring Medan, Samosir Island and Pematang Siantar. Alas!, my desire to know about Pekanbaru had beated feet tiredness which had actually screamed to stop.

I began to enter Kota Baru Street. Giant bolts, rolls of thick wires, large pipe casings seemed scattered in shop house rows which were transformed into mechanical workshops. Every swing of my steps seemed to recharge my enthusiasm to immediately arrive at Kampung Bukit area where Pekanbaru City was established.

In this area, a land plot of former new market (Pekan Baharu) which was pioneered by Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah stands a special heritage, the oldest mosque in Riau Province.

Again….Yellow dome symbolizes Malay greatness.

A mosque which was born as a consequence which was carried on Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah shoulders, the 4th Sultan who moved the center of Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate from Mempura Besar to Bukit Senapelan in the mid XVIII century.

It is “Tali Berpilin Tiga” tradition which makes King’s Palace, Custom Deliberative Hall, and Mosque as requirements which must be fulfilled by the Sultan if he intends to move the sultanate. The King’s Palace symbolizes government, the Custom Deliberative Hall symbolizes ancestral custom and the Mosque as a religion symbol.

Half of dome in arch canopy reminds me to Mughal architecture at Taj Mahal.

By the Sultan, the Palace Building was named Istana Bukit, the Custom Deliberative Hall was named Balai Payung Sekaki and the Mosque was given a name as Alam Mosque which was taken from the Sultan’s youngname, King Alam.

Some people call it Pekanbaru Senapelan Mosque, also some people call it Pekanbaru Grand Mosque.

I arrived at the mosque as a Masbuq (late for prayer), didn’t want to be left behind of entire rak’ah, I rushed to ablution room and immediately followed the last two rak’ah in prayer congregation. After completing last 2 rak’ah, I began to be stunned by six large white pillars which on its top were covered with golden domes and didn’t really support the roof, like a lighthouse.

Sunlight which was penetrating permanent glass windows on top wall increasingly displayed typical Persian arches. While golden calligraphies which set in a typical Middle East green background seemed to circle around mosque as an interior.

A green-roofed golden pulpit with golden crescent moon tower.

Went out from mosque, I headed east to a cemetery gate. Named as Marhum Pekan Cemetery Complex which is cemetery complex of Pekanbaru city founders such like Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah (4th Sultan), Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (5th Sultan) and their loyal warlords.

Gate of Marhum Pekan Cemetery Complex. Marhum Pekan itself is a term for Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (founder of Pekanbaru city).

Nur Alam Mosque is a closing for my exploration about Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate. Satisfied and happy to get to know more about the famous sultanate in Sumatra land.

Come on …. Back to hotel, check-in and lunch!

Black Taxi from Toba Lake to Pematang Siantar

I entered Eloise’s room to pick up my backpack which I had entrusted since morning. I checked out in the morning and continued to exploring Samosir all day with her. I said good-bye to her and prepared to go to Pematang Siantar, while she was still overnight at Samosir.

Bagus Bay Homestay staff directed me to wait for a ferry at the nearest port. Turn left after exiting the hotel, a few tens of meters later, I entered a alley at left side of road. Keep stepping until I reached a stall, right on port edge.

Tigaraja, Sir? Wait for half an hour, okay?“, Said a timer to me. Half an hour which was more than enough to ate a bowl of instant noodles with egg topping for USD 1.1 in stall corner.

Ferry looked approaching and the timer was silently pointing my face, then his index finger was pointing toward the ferry. I understand what that means.

Not even perfectly leaning yet, I jumped into the ferry. All passengers on the left deck shouted. “Watch out, Sir!” I waved like an artist. It turned out that my ability to maneuver with motorboats in Jatiluhur Dam when I became a fish farm salesman was still good.

Zoe’s Paradise Hotel (white) and Dumasari Hotel (red) stared at me when leaving Samosir.
Heading to Tigaraja port in 50 minutes.

The man in a faded blue jeans was intently staring in the distance when I descended the ferry. There isn’t other way to avoid it. I looked like waiting for a thug who was ready to hit me.

Siantar, Sir. Forty thousand Rupiah (USD 3)?“, He said while shadowing my steps. “Oh, taxi service“, I said. Chasing INTRA Bus which would leave at seven o’clock in the evening, I said yes. And I was taken to Bagus Taxi’s office.

Dying for a pee but didn’t getting a toilet, someone took a shower too long….Huftt.
Driver and passenger were hostile through a wooden pawns fight.

Looked like I was the last filler in taxi manifest. So fast, I’ve just sat on right side of middle row seat.

Right on my left, an old man who liked smoking during journey.

Black Avanza (one of Toyota type in Indonesia) swirled to measure street and picked up passengers one by one. pickup was ended with one incident when a woman missed her wallet in the fifth kilometer of our trip. It was annoying but can make me a little bit laugh. There wasn’t choice, the taxi turned back to get her wallet.

Leaving Toba Lake, the taxi speed forced me to open my eyes. It invited me to snaking and enjoying beautiful natural scenery of Simalungun Regency. Oil palm plantations, fields, hills and valleys were passed one by one. Occasionally the driver created humors, one of it when he frantically installing a seat belt which he didn’t wear in unison with a passenger next to him, even failedly installing it, until we passed the police operation area….Luckily, he didn’t stopped by police.

Within an hour and 20 minutes, taxi started to entering city edge, then headed to downtown via Gereja Street and Merdeka Street with two monuments as city landmarks.

Adipura Monument. Siantar has won this environmental award for four times.
Wahana Tata Nugraha Monument in President Soeharto era, an award for the excellent of transportation management.

Brother, once you get to Parluasan area, just go to the bus office, be careful“, said Erwin (my backpacker friend who accidentally met on KL HoHo Bus on 2013). Maybe he was worried about me when entering Parluasan area who was famous for its thugs. But I casually responded because I knew that I would be dropped right in front of the INTRA bus office.

I arrived…..

Let’s waited for brother Erwin to pick me up for getting around Pematang Siantar for a moment.t