Para Panglima Perang di Masjid Raya Nur Alam

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Satu perandaian yang tak pernah terwujud adalah memasuki Rumah Singgah Tuan Kadi. Ingin rasanya duduk menghampar di dalamnya dan menikmati untaian sejarah dalam bilik-bilik mungilnya. Secara bersamaan, keringat yang terus meleleh di pelipis mata, pelan tapi pasti meluruhkan setiap perandaian di kepalaku. Pintu-pintu rumah itu tertutup rapat seakan berkata kepadaku “Sudahlah pergi saja, cukup bagimu melihat keindahan kulit ariku saja”.

Aku pergi…..

Langkah kaki yang tak kusadari mulai sedikit terseret mengindikasikan bahwa aku perlu banyak beristirahat setelah empat hari sebelumnya menyisir Medan, Pulau Samosir dan Pematang Siantar. Tapi apa daya, keinginanku mengenal Pekanbaru mengalahkan keletihan kaki yang sesungguhnya sudah berteriak minta berhenti.

Aku mulai memasuki Jalan Kota Baru. Baut-baut raksasa, gulungan kabel-kabel tebal, selongsong pipa bekas berukuran besar tampak berserakan di deretan rumah toko yang disulap menjadi bengkel-bengkel mekanik. Setiap ayunan langkah seakan mengisi ulang semangatku untuk segera tiba di area Kampung Bukit dimana Kota Pekanbaru dirintis pada mulanya.

Di area inilah, sebidang tanah bekas pasar baru (Pekan Baharu) yang dirintis oleh Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah berdiri sebuah peninggalan istimewa yaitu masjid tertua di Provinsi Riau.

Lagi….Kubah kuning perlambang kebesaran Melayu.

Masjid yang lahir sebagai sebuah konsekuensi yang dipikulkan di pundak Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah, Sultan ke-4 yang memindahkan pusat Kesultanan Siak Sri Indrapura dari Mempura Besar ke Bukit Senapelan pada pertengahan abad XVIII.

Adalah adat Tali Berpilin Tiga  yang menjadikan Istana Raja, Balai Kerapatan Adat, dan Masjid sebagai satu kesatuan syarat yang harus dipenuhi Sang Sultan jika berniat memindahkan kesultanan. Istana Raja melambangkan pemerintahan, Balai Kerapatan Adat melambangkan adat istiadat leluhur dan Masjid sebagai perlambang agama.

Setengah kubah pada lengkung kanopi teras mengingatkanku dengan arsitektur Mughal di Taj Mahal.

Oleh Sang Sultan, Bangunan Istana diberi nama Istana Bukit, Balai Kerapatan Adat dinamai Balai Payung Sekaki dan Masjid diberi nama Masjid Alam yang diambil dari nama kecil Sang Sultan yaitu Raja Alam.

Ada yang menyebutnya dengan nama Masjid Senapelan Pekanbaru, beberapa orang menyebutnya Masjid Raya Pekanbaru.

Aku tiba di Masjid dalam keadaan Masbuq (terlambat shalat), tak mau tertinggal seluruh raka’at, aku bergegas menuju ke tempat wudhu dan segera mengikuti dua raka’at terakhir berjama’ah. Selepas menggenapkan 2 raka’at terakhir sendirian, aku mulai tertegun dengan enam tiang besar berwarna putih yang ujungnya dilapisi kubah warna emas dan tak sampai menyangga atap, bak mercusuar.

Sinar matahari yang menembus jendela-jendela kaca permanen di dinding teratas semakin menampilkan lengkung-lengkung lancip khas Persia. Sedangkan kaligrafi emas berlatar dasar hijau khas Timur Tengah tampak melingkar mengelilingi bagian dalam masjid.

Mimbar emas beratap hijau bermenara bulan sabit emas.

Keluar dari masjid aku menuju ke sisi timur menuju sebuah gerbang pemakaman. Bernama Kompleks Makam Marhum Pekan yang merupakan komplek makam para pendiri kota Pekanbaru seperti Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah (Sultan ke-4), Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (Sultan ke-5) beserta para panglima perang setianya.

Gerbang Kompleks Makam Marhum Pekan. Marhum Pekan sendiri adalah sebutan untuk Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (pendiri kota Pekanbaru).

Masjid Nur Alam adalah penutup napak tilasku tentang Kesultanaan Siak Sri Indrapura. Puas dan bahagia bisa mengenal lebih dekat tentang kesultanan tersohor di tanah Sumatera ini.

Yuk….Balik ke hotel, check-in dan makan siang!

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Dari Hotel Sri Indrayani Petualangan Bermula

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Aku masih saja tak bergeming dengan tawaran para sopir taksi, sementara para penumpang Bus INTRA yang lain lebih memilih menggunakan jasa taksi menuju tujuan akhirnya di Pekanbaru.

Beberapa waktu kemudian, dari seberang jalan, pengemudi ojek online melambaikan tangan kepadaku. Tentu dia tahu, aku memakai jaket biru dengan backpack berwarna sama. Aku telah mengirimkan deskripsi itu kepadanya lewat pesan dalam aplikasi.

Asli sini, Bang?”, tanyaku di jok belakang,

Bukan, aku asal Padang, Bang. Mas asli Jawa ya? Suaranya medok banget”, jawabnya balik bertanya

Aku mbiyen kuliah ning Jogja, mas. Sampeyan Jowone ngendi?”, belum juga kujawab, sudah bertanya lagi.

Aku asli Solo, Bang. Orang sini baik-baik kan, Bang?”, aku mulai penasaran.

Warga Pekanbaru kebanyakan perantau Padang, Bang. Tenang, abang kemana aja aman”, ucapnya menenangkan.

Dari artikel yang kubaca setelahnya, memang benar 40% warga kota Pekanbaru adalah para perantau asli Minang. Memang hebat orang Minang ini dalam urusan merantau.

Belum juga pukul 10 pagi, aku tiba.

Hotel bintang tiga yang kupesan melalui Airy Rooms tepat sembilan hari sebelum kedatanganku di Pekanbaru ini hanya berharga Rp. 81.000 per malamnya. Murah, kan?

Aku sengaja memilih tinggal di daerah Senapelan hanya untuk menapak tilas kejayaan Kesultanan Siak Sri Indrapura. Melihat aktivitas perekonomian warga kota, mengingat nama Pekanbaru berasal dari kata Pekan Baharu yaitu sebuah pasar yang dirintis oleh Raja Muda Tengku Muhammad Ali, Sultan Siak ke-5. Boleh dikatakan bahwa daerah Senapelan adalah cikal bakal terbentuknya Kota Pekanbaru yang terlahir sebagai dampak positif berkembangnya ekonomi Kesultanan.

Halaman depan hotel yang berada di tepian Jalan Sam Ratulangi.

Merasa datang terlalu pagi, aku mencoba peruntungan di depan meja resepsionis. Barangkali mereka bisa memasukkanku lebih cepat untuk beristirahat di kamar.

Kamar belum siap, Bang. Abang tunggu aja ya di lobby sampai jam 1”, ungkap pemuda berseragam rapi yang bertugas.

Oh baik, bang. Saya titip backpack saja ya. Saya lebih baik keliling kota dulu, nanti balik lagi pas sudah bisa check-in”, ujarku membalas.

“Oh, boleh bang. Taruh sini saja”, Dia meminta backpack untuk ditaruhnya dibelakang meja.

Bang, ada colokan listrik buat ngecharge HP?”, permintaanku kepadanya

Oh colokan ada di restoran di sebelah kanan lobby. Masuk aja, Bang!”, telunjukknya mengarah pada sebuah pintu.

Meluruskan pinggang sebentar di lobby, aku masih saja menatap bentuk ruang resepsionis yang autentik, kuning emas mendominasi. Tiga atap dengan tiga selembayung di ujungnya. berbentuk tangan menengadah perlambang hubungan erat antara makhluk hidup dan Sang Pencipta.

Selain selembayung, motif layaknya songket khas melayu sangat mempercantik ruangan.

Selepas daya kameraku terisi maka untuk memanfaatkan waktu sembari menunggu waktu check-in, aku mulai menelusuri beberapa jejak Kesultanan Siak yang terepresentasi jelas di sepanjang Sungai Siak, Rumah Singgah Tuan Kadi dan Masjid Raya Nur Alam.

Memasuki twin bed room pada pukul 2 siang.
Kamar hotel yang murah namun mewah bagiku.

Hotel Sri Indrayani awalnya adalah mess yang disewa oleh sebuah maskapai penerbangan untuk para air crewnya sejak 1971. Seiring berkembangnya Pekanbaru, wisma ini menyempurnakan diri dengan bertransformasi menjadi hotel syariah terkemuka di Pekanbaru pada masa perkembangan kota. Letaknya yang berseberangan jalan dengan Kawasan Pecinan juga membuat perkembangan hotel ini berlangsung sangat cepat pada masanya.

Akhirnya menemukan air hangat setelah 38 jam tak mandi.
Taman di belakang hotel berbatasan dengan Jalan Bangka.

Dari hotel Sri Indrayani inilah petualangan mengeksplore Pekanbaru bermula. Saatnya berkeliling kota mengenal Ibukota Provinsi Riau ini.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Warlords in Nur Alam Grand Mosque

A assumption which never materialized was to entering Tuan Kadi Halfway House. I wanted to sit relax in it and enjoyed history strands in its small cubicles. Simultaneously, sweat which had continued to melt in my temples, slowly but surely shed every assumption in my head. House doors were tightly closed as if it said to me “Just go, enough for you to just see my beauty“.

I went…..

Footsteps which I was unconscious began to little bit drag, indicating that I needed a lot of rest after four days before in exploring Medan, Samosir Island and Pematang Siantar. Alas!, my desire to know about Pekanbaru had beated feet tiredness which had actually screamed to stop.

I began to enter Kota Baru Street. Giant bolts, rolls of thick wires, large pipe casings seemed scattered in shop house rows which were transformed into mechanical workshops. Every swing of my steps seemed to recharge my enthusiasm to immediately arrive at Kampung Bukit area where Pekanbaru City was established.

In this area, a land plot of former new market (Pekan Baharu) which was pioneered by Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah stands a special heritage, the oldest mosque in Riau Province.

Again….Yellow dome symbolizes Malay greatness.

A mosque which was born as a consequence which was carried on Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah shoulders, the 4th Sultan who moved the center of Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate from Mempura Besar to Bukit Senapelan in the mid XVIII century.

It is “Tali Berpilin Tiga” tradition which makes King’s Palace, Custom Deliberative Hall, and Mosque as requirements which must be fulfilled by the Sultan if he intends to move the sultanate. The King’s Palace symbolizes government, the Custom Deliberative Hall symbolizes ancestral custom and the Mosque as a religion symbol.

Half of dome in arch canopy reminds me to Mughal architecture at Taj Mahal.

By the Sultan, the Palace Building was named Istana Bukit, the Custom Deliberative Hall was named Balai Payung Sekaki and the Mosque was given a name as Alam Mosque which was taken from the Sultan’s youngname, King Alam.

Some people call it Pekanbaru Senapelan Mosque, also some people call it Pekanbaru Grand Mosque.

I arrived at the mosque as a Masbuq (late for prayer), didn’t want to be left behind of entire rak’ah, I rushed to ablution room and immediately followed the last two rak’ah in prayer congregation. After completing last 2 rak’ah, I began to be stunned by six large white pillars which on its top were covered with golden domes and didn’t really support the roof, like a lighthouse.

Sunlight which was penetrating permanent glass windows on top wall increasingly displayed typical Persian arches. While golden calligraphies which set in a typical Middle East green background seemed to circle around mosque as an interior.

A green-roofed golden pulpit with golden crescent moon tower.

Went out from mosque, I headed east to a cemetery gate. Named as Marhum Pekan Cemetery Complex which is cemetery complex of Pekanbaru city founders such like Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah (4th Sultan), Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (5th Sultan) and their loyal warlords.

Gate of Marhum Pekan Cemetery Complex. Marhum Pekan itself is a term for Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah (founder of Pekanbaru city).

Nur Alam Mosque is a closing for my exploration about Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate. Satisfied and happy to get to know more about the famous sultanate in Sumatra land.

Come on …. Back to hotel, check-in and lunch!

From Sri Indrayani Hotel….The Adventure was Began

I still didn’t budge with an offer of taxi drivers, while other INTRA Bus passengers preferred to use taxi services towards their final destination in Pekanbaru.

Several time later, from across the street, an online motorcycle taxi driver waved to me. Of course he knew, I was wearing a blue jacket with same color backpack. I had sent a description to him via message in application.

Are you originally from here, Sir?” I asked in back seat.

No, I’m from Padang, Sir. Are you from Java? your accent is typical“, he answered and asked.

I ever studied in a college at Yogyakarta, Sir. Which Java are you from?“, I didn’t have answered yet, He had asked again.

I’m originally from Solo, Sir. Are local residents nice, Sir?”, I began to wonder.

Most of Pekanbaru residents are from Padang, Sir. Calm down, Sir, anywhere is safe“, he soothingly said .

From an article I read afterwards, it’s true that 40% of Pekanbaru residents are Minang native migrants. Indeed, Minang people are great in odyssey

Not even 10 o’clock in the morning, I arrived.

The three-star hotel which I booked through Airy Rooms exactly on nine days before my arrival in Pekanbaru was only USD 6 per night. Cheap, right?

I deliberately chose to stay in Senapelan area just to tracing the glory of Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate. Looking at economic activities of city residents, remembering that the name of Pekanbaru came from words of Pekan Baharu, a market which was pioneered by Young Sultan named Tengku Muhammad Ali, the 5th Siak Sultan. It can be said that Senapelan area was the forerunner to the formation of Pekanbaru City which was born as a positive impact from Sultanate economic development.

Hotel front yard is on an edge of Sam Ratulangi Street.

Coming too early, I tried my luck in front of reception desk. Maybe they could put me faster to rest in hotel room.

The room isn’t ready, Sir. Just wait in our lobby until 13 o’clock”, young staff on duty said in neat uniform.

Oh well, Sir. Can I put my backpack here. I better go around the city first, then come back when I can check-in“, I replied.

Oh sure, sir. Just put it here“, he asked my backpack to put behind the table.

Sir, is there a power outlet to recharge my handphone?“, I asked him

Oh, the plug is in hotel’s restaurant at right of the lobby. Just go in, Sir!“, His index finger pointed at a door.

Straightening my waist for a while in the lobby, I was still staring at the authentic reception room, golden yellow dominated. Three roofs with three selembayung at the end. praying hand shape symbolizes the close relationship between living things and God.

In addition to selembayung, motifs like a Malay songket is beautify the room.

After my camera and handphone was charged, to take advantage my time while waiting for check-in, I began to explore some traces of Siak Sultanate which were clearly represented along Siak River, Tuan Kadi’s Halfway House and Nur Alam Grand Mosque

Entering twin bed room at 2 pm.
Cheap but luxurious hotel room for me.

Sri Indrayani Hotel was originally a guesthouse which was rented by an airline for its air crew since 1971. Along with Pekanbaru development, this guesthouse perfected itself by transforming into a leading shariah hotel in Pekanbaru during the city’s development. Its location which opposite the Chinatown also made hotel development was quickly its time.

Finally, I found warm water after didn’t bathing for 38 hours.
The park behind hotel is bordered by Bangka Street.

From Sri Indrayani Hotel, my adventure to exploring Pekanbaru was began. It was time to got around the city and got to know about the capital of Riau Province.