Amrit Marg

Unusually, a slightly luxurious breakfast had been prepared on the top floor of Shangrila Boutique Hotel. Fried rice sprinkled with diced buffalo meat, two slices of sausage and a sheet of beef eye egg. Two layers of toast with a sheet of cheese were also prepared. Then they closed with a cup of hot black coffee.

A full stomach and I was ready to enter the past Nepalese glory that will be implied in every inch of area in Kathmandu Durbar Square, one of three famous Durbar Square in Nepal. “Durbar” itself means “palace”. So actually Durbar Square is a palace square in general.

Walking in Amrit Marg, the warm morning sun eased my steps when I must defeat 9 degrees Celcius air which was still reluctant to move up. While coughing had inhabited my throat since a day ago due to dust which continued to be uncontrollably inhaled. “It’s okay, tomorrow I fly to New Delhi, surely air will be cleaner there,” I thought to calm myself. This belief kept Ambroxol tablets which I brought from Jakarta still intact.

Now I was starting to enter a number of narrow intricate turns. Andesite-floor streets lined with a row of sun-blocking shophouses and spreading of irregular signboards. Even in Jyatha Marg, it was decorated by the very tangled knotted strands of electric cables.

Nepalese electric officer must be adept at dealing with electrical damage.

Gemitir flower trader on the edge of Chandraman Singh Marg.

It was time to step out at last intersection before entering the famous Indra Chowk area. It was 10 a.m. but shops along Chandraman Singh Marg were still closed. Meanwhile, motorbikes which were passing could be counted in a matter of fingers.

A few steps, the area which I headed for was in front of my eyes, intersection of five streets with very high activity. The rumble of morning trading which stunned me to observe it from a intersection side. This was Indra Chowk, an area which for centuries had been a famous trading center in Kathmandu district. Anyone who wanted to hunt for Nepalese clothes, souvenirs or tasting local food then just came here!

Entering intersection area from north side via Chandraman Singh Marg, I could see other four roads which made up the intersection, namely Siddhidas Marg (from Northeast), Watu Marg, Sukra Path, and Siddhidas Marg (from Southwest). All five lead to a broad circle with an iconic view of Aakash Bhairav temple.

*Aakash Bhairav* yang bersejara The historic Aakash Bhairav became Nepal’s first king’s palace.

Stepping back, away from the noise of Indra Chowk while holding Dhaka Topi which I bought from a shophouse, a less crowded street greeted me again.

On this street, there was an interesting spot. Public knew it as Makhan Tole. A famous art spot in Kathmandu. There were many fine arts works here and of course many travelers chase them.

From Makhan Tole, it only took 5 minutes walking to Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Let’s explore what were in Kathmandu Durbar Square …….

Tak seperti biasanya, santapan pagi sedikit mewah telah disiapkan di lantai teratas Shangrila Boutique Hotel. Nasi goreng bertabur potongan dadu daging kerbau, dua potong sosis dan selembar telur mata sapi. Masih pula disiapkan dua lapis toast berselai selembar keju. Kemudian ditutup dengan secangkir kopi hitam panas.

Perut kenyang dan aku siap memasuki kejayaan Nepal masa lalu yang akan tersirat pada tiap jengkal area di Kathmandu Durbar Square, satu diantara tiga Durbar Square terkenal di Nepal. “Durbar” sendiri berarti “istana”, sementara “square” berarti “alun-alun”. Jadi sebenarnya Durbar Square adalah alun-alun istana pada umumnya.

Membilang di Amrit Marg, hangatnya mentari pagi meringankan langkah ketika harus menembus suhu 9 derajat yang masih saja enggan beranjak naik. Sementara batuk telah menghuni tenggorokan sejak sehari lalu akibat debu yang terus terhisap tak terkendali. “Tak apa, besok aku terbang menuju New Delhi, pasti udara akan lebih bersih disana”, batinku menenangkan diri. Keyakinan itu membuat Ambroxol yang kubawa dari Jakarta masih saja utuh.

Kini aku mulai memasuki sejumlah tikungan rumit sempit. Jalanan berlapis andesit dengan deret ruko penghadang surya dan bertabur signboard tak beraturan. Bahkan di bilangan Jyatha Marg diperparah dengan untaian kabel listrik yang bersimpul sangat kusut.

Petugas PLN Nepal pasti mahir menangani kerusakan listrik.

Penjual bunga Gemitir di tepian *Chandraman Singh Marg*.

Tiba saatnya melangkah di perempatan terakhir sebelum memasuki area terkenal Indra Chowk. Waktu sudah jam 10 pagi tetapi pertokoan di sepanjang Chandraman Singh Marg masih saja tutup. Sementara itu, sepeda motor yang berlalu-lalang tercacah dalam hitungan jari..

Pengayuh becak yang beranjak mengais rezeqi.

Beberapa dasa langkah, area yang kusasar ada di depan mata, simpang lima dengan kesibukan sangat tinggi. Gemuruh perniagaan pagi yang membuatku tertegun mengamatinya di suatu sisi. Inilah Indra Chowk, area yang selama berabad-abad telah menjadi sentra perdagangan tersohor di distrik Kathmandu. Siapa saja yang ingin berburu pakaian khas Nepal, souvenir untuk dibawa pulang ataupun merasakan aneka makanan lokal, maka datanglah kesini!

Memasuki area simpang lima dari sisi utara melalui Chandraman Singh Marg, aku bisa melihat keempat jalan lain sebagai penyusun simpang yaitu Siddhidas Marg (dari Timur Laut), Watu Marg, Sukra Path, dan Siddhidas Marg (dari Barat Daya). Kelimanya bermuara pada lingkaran luas dengan pemandangan ikonik kuil Aakash Bhairav.

*Aakash Bhairav* yang bersejarah menjadi istana raja pertama Nepal.

Melangkah kembali, menjauhi kebisingan Indra Chowk sembari mencangking Dhaka Topi yang kubeli ketengan, jalanan yang tak begitu ramai kembali menyambut.

Abege di *Siddhidas Marg*….Manis ya?….Hahaha.

Di jalan inilah terdapat satu spot menarik. Khalayak mengenalnya sebagai Makhan Tole. Spot kesenian terkenal di Kathmandu. Karya seni rupa banyak dijumpai disini dan tentu banyak pelancong yang memburunya.

Dari Makhan Tole, hanya memerlukan 5 menit berjalan kaki menuju Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Yuk kita eksplore apa saja yang ada di Kathmandu Durbar Square ini…….

Tag: Amrit Marg

Indra Chowk before Kathmandu Durbar Square

Indra Chowk sebelum Kathmandu Durbar Square