Kathmandu Tourism

Writing Inspiration from Tribhuvan International Airport

11 October 20219 October 2021travelingpersecond

Time was so fast. Yesterday afternoon I was still exploring Basantapur area. But now it was four in the morning. I had just soaked myself under a warm shower of Shangrila Butique Hotel. After making sure that nothing was left behind, I immediately went to reception desk to check-out and a step later I was down on the streets of Thamel. Dark, empty and full of worries.

I continued down the street and hoping to found a taxi soon, while from behind in the dark I heard footsteps of several people accompanied by Nepalese chants that made my heart beat faster. I dared to look back, five young men quickly walked after me. I couldn’t seem to walk any faster because my backpack was weighing me down on my back. I seemed resigned if something happened when they actually caught up with me.

“Plakk“, the hand of one of them tightly patted my right shoulder. “Oh, God“, I quickly thought responded.

“Good morning, Brothers. Are you happy in Nepal?”, he said while accompanying my steps which were already slowing down in fear.

“Hi….Yeaaa, nice country”, I said louder than usual just to show courage.

“Good….Be careful, bro”, he quickly passed me while the other four friends looked at me with a light smile and simultaneously said “Hi”.

Oh, God thank you for still sending good people to greet me in the dark of the morning.

Arriving at an intersection, there were rows of taxis queuing up to transport passengers. The leading taxi flashed a flash of light at me and I raised my hand in response that I would use his services.

“Airport, sir….How much?”, I curtly asked.

“Seven hundreds Rupees“, he answered as he grabbed my backpack which closed my intention to bid.

“Ok“, there was no other answer I can come up with.

The taxi was speeding fast without a barrier in Pashupati Road which of course was still quiet. Less than 20 minutes, the taxi arrived to Tribhuvan International Airport.

At half past six in the morning, the airport was still closed and quiet.

There wasn’t much I could do, I just waited at the airport police desk which looked empty while still staring at the international gate and hoping that its door would open soon because it was very cold outside.

“Do you Indonesian, brother?“, the joke came from behind. I looked left and right, there was no one beside me. The voice was clearly asking me. I looked back and saw a woman in her 30s smiling at me.

“Hi Mam, how do you know I’m from Indonesia?“, I replied smiling back.

“That’s it, Sir“, she pointed to one of my backpack pockets which wasn’t completely closed and slightly revealed the red and white flag which I had worn four days ago at Sarangkot.

As a result we talked to each other while waiting for the gate to open. It turned out that she was a graduate of a well-known university in Indonesia and a senior worker at an oil exploration company in Bangladesh. After traveling to Nepal, she would return to his hometown via New Delhi.

On the plane with me to New Delhi, she continued to fly with Singapore Airlines which transiting Singapore. Meanwhile I would explore New Delhi and Agra first.

The gate had been opened, I immediately went to check-in counter. The process took a little longer, I overheard the whispers between them and said the word “internet connection“. No wonder my online check-in process failed last night.

Then in another row of immigration counters, I saw her having a warm conversation with the immigration officer. Her english was very fluent. Shee briefly explained to me in the waiting room that immigration officers in Asia tend to be more flexible than officers in Europe and America. Of course I believed that.

Waiting Room in Tribhuvan International Airport.

She treated me to a cup of chiya until the plane arrived.

I could say, she who disn’t want to be named was a person who inspired me to write and share every travel experience which I did so that I could support every traveler with information. She herself was never able to write because she was very busy, even though she had extraordinary stories. One was when she was able to survive a desert storm which hit her in Kuwait.

Jet Airways flying 9W 0263 was ready. I came out of the waiting room to apron. There was one uniqueness that I have never experienced before, namely when there was an inspection of each passenger’s cabin baggage in the extension area right in front of the plane door. Hilarious and fun experience.

OK, it was time to fly.

Goodbye Basantapur

9 October 20219 October 2021travelingpersecond

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Stepping away from Kumari Ghar, I was still thinking. When Kumari retires later, how does she live in society after only leaving Kumari Ghar once a year for a dozen years, how does she work until which man who is lucky to marry her…. Hmmhh.

My steps arrived at a wide plaza. Elongated white buildings with European architecture flanking the wide courtyard on the left and right, while in the middle, souvenir traders place their stalls.

Basantapur Dabali is a must-visit historical landmark.

Playing a role as the heart of Kathmandu, Basantapur had indeed been a meeting place for people from all over for politics and trading since Nepal was still a kingdom. Therefore Basantapur is always crowded until now.

For you as millennials, Basantapur provides many modern cafes to just hang out. Himalayan tea is also easy to find in this area. You can feel the deliciousness of Chiya (tea mixed with milk) in the cold air of Kathmandu.

Hunting for Himalayan Tea at one of the stalls.

Freak Street was a lane which looks quite busy with the existence of this iconic plaza. The charm of Basantapur Dabali hypnotized anyone to last a long time enjoying it. But the sun had slipped far, it was time for me to leave Basantapur to return to Thamel.

Sinha Swan Khala, a fairly busy religious institution in Freak Street.

Enjoying Kathmandu can’t be done by taking a taxi, make sure you keep going and enjoy the authentic Newar culture and architecture which is in every side of the city.

Now I was back in the streets of Layaku Marg. “Layaku” is another word for “Durbar Square”, while “Durbar Square” itself means “Palace Square”. It is true as it is, this Layaku Marg divides Basantapur and places the Royal Palace of Malla on its a side.

Bishal Bazaar or Vishal Bazaar is a very famous shopping area in Kathmandu. Characterized by the existence of an old mall and Chinese Market. Bishal Bazaar may be the right place for fans of jewelry knick-knacks.

The Basantapur and Bishal Bazaar areas are bordered by the Sukra Path that begins with the Juddha Statue, a statue at the crossroads in honor of Nepal’s King Juddha Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana who played a major role in rebuilding his country from the severe damage caused by the Nepal earthquake in 1934.

Before actually completing the trip to Thamel, I tried to enjoy the busy activities of local residents by entering a restaurant in the Sukra Path number

That afternoon was my last evening in enjoying Kathmandu because the next day I would fly using Jet Airways 9W 0263 to the capital of India. Maybe tonight I won’t wander around much because I have to get ready to leave for Tribhuvan International Airport in the dark of the morning.

I arrived in Thamel and immediately checked-in online for my flight, tonight I’m only going out for a while to enjoy dinner.

Wow… Look that beautiful woman in the shampoo commercial.

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The Beauty of the Living Goddess in Kumari Ghar

6 August 20215 August 2021travelingpersecond

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It was King Prithvi Narayan Shah who first in using the two-triangular flag when he succeeded in unifying all kingdoms in Nepal on 1768. Yes, two triangles on the Nepalese national flag represent two great dynasties which once existed in the Land of a Thousand Gods, namely the Shah Dynasty and the Rana Dynasty.

“Please, come!….Please, come!” a man told me to entering a shiny red brick building. European tourists and their tour guides who seem to know the reason why they come to this place seem to flock to entering the gate. I who haven’t saved any information, just rely on that man’s humble smile. A moment later I was inside.

The man in a gray jacket who was meritorious to brought me to the Goddess.

Another man inside greeted me, “Welcome to Kumari Ghar…The house of Kumari”. Kumari is a living goddess in Hindu and even Buddhist mythology. Kumari itself is a Sanskrit term which means “Princess”. Kumari is chosen by the head of Pandita and is considered the reincarnation of Goddess Taleju, the Goddess of Guardians of the City.

Chop up buffalo meat for tomorrow’s offering ceremony.

I kept eavesdropping on tour guide’s explanation to European travelers. It was said that the last king Malla often met in secret with Goddess Taleju who was asked to protect the kingdom. His wife who was suspicious, on a night followed the King when he was about to meet the Goddess. Suddenly the Goddess was angry because her whereabouts was revealed. But the Goddess was still kind enough to remain willing to protect the kingdom, but with one requirement, i.e by providing a girl as a reincarnation of her. Well, this girl was what I was going to see this time.

All eyes were on three black windows on top floor of Kumari Ghar. From there, Kumari will be displayed in a flash. The burly men seemed to be starting to spread out in all corners and their eyes were unblinking at us. Their faces swept across to all tourists in courtyard, they were careful to not to let any video highlights or camera captures pointed towards Kumari when it was shown later.

The time came, everyone was silent as the window slowly opened. Kumari hadn’t come out yet, I didn’t blink for fearing of losing her appearance. Burly men below loudly shouted to other above, I didn’t know what they was reporting. Perhap condition were ready for Kumari to appeared in the window.

Two women rechecked condition below from above. A moment later, they gave a code to inside. An instant later, a beautiful girl who dressed in all red, crowned with gold sheets with a third eye on her forehead appeared in the window opening. Just a moment, less than half a minute.

“Wooouwww“, a word which came out from all visitors and then they were busy whispering to their friends in their language. While I was still looking at the window which had been closed since earlier with a smile. It was crazy to be able to meet a goddess who was actually alive.

Following the belief, Kumari will finish being the reincarnation of Goddess Taleju when she is menstruating and will be replaced by a new Kumari. Kumari will be selected from three years old with very strict requirements such as no scars, no fear from masked men who dancing on the blood of slaughtered buffalo, she willn’t step on the ground as long as become Kumari and only come out just once a year, i.e in Bhoto Jatra ceremony, the festival to celebrating rainy season as well as harvest season.

This Nepali culture is magical….It’s amazing.

Madira at Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square

5 June 2021travelingpersecond

Early morning….No doubt, I exchanged 1.000 Rupee with a pink-white ticket as an access to enjoying the history of Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square.

Walking on andesite-covered Layaku Marg Street which looking gray color and the thin dust which thrown by the cleaning staff’s broomsticks, I was ready to entering ancient Nepal are which was still in the form of a kingdom.

The temple to worship “Goddess of Science” I passed passed and then I met a crowd of people who were busy burning incense, sowing flowers and then putting their palms together on their chests facing a black six-armed statue which was believed to be the embodiment of Lord Shiva the Destroyer.

Meanwhile, the incense traders in Indorapur Mandir courtyard made this area very crowded if was compared to other areas in Kathmandu Durbar Square. In harmony with a busyness of hundreds of pigeons were eating their breakfast which was given by travelers who have come first in this area.

Kaal Bhairav with golden crown as embodiment of Lord Shiva.

Roof layers of all temples look the same and took me to Majapahit fiction atmosphere likely in Indonesian cinema. The atmosphere of Hindu Knights which was very thick that morning, was able to throw me for a moment from a world which was fanatical with technology.

The Royal Palace of Malla which was later used by Shah Dynasty was an important icon in Kathmandu Durbar Square. Because the statue of Lord Hanuman was guarded at front gate, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was known as Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square. Some people call it as Basantapur Durbar Khsetra because this palace was located in Basantapur area.

After gate, the spacious palace courtyard welcame. Known as Nasal Chowk. Nasal means dance, referring to Lord Shiva who danced Tandava Nataraja when destroying the obsolete universe. This plaza-like courtyard was surrounded by palace buildings on all four sides.

Meanwhile on south side of courtyard was a sign of a project funded by Ministry of Commerce of People’s Republic of China to renovated the palace which was badly damaged after a tectonic earthquake which was resulted from the collision of the Indian and Eurasian plates in the Himalayas in 2015.

The Nine-story Basantapur Tower which has collapsed.

The room in which there was a statue of Lord Shiva who was dancing.

Sun Dial, the timepiece before clock invention.

Then, on north side, there was the architectural form of Newar with striking green windows. Nicknamed as Sisha Baithak which its functions as a work audience room. On the lower floor of this building, there were rows of king photos. And two palace guards were seen pacing with their rifles around this building.

From left were King Rana Bahadur Shah (third King of Nepal) and his son King Girbanayuddha Bikram Shah (fourth King-pictured at right)

With Guard Police at Sisha Baithak before leaving the palace.

I left the palace while throwing my thanks and goodbye to Guard Police. Suddenly his friend who had just arrived said to him in Nepali, I guess it reads “Where is he from?”, because the policeman who I took the photo with said simply “Indonesia”.

One tip when you are in Kathmandu Durbar Square area is to try to understand one by one buildings which you pass, because every building there has an amazing function and historical value.

Again I found a unique building. A temple which studded with Shwet Bhairav which was believed to be the most powerful embodiment of Lord Shiva. Hidden in wooden curtains and waiting for the Indrajatra Festival to fully reveal itself to the people of Newar. When the festival arrived, Madira (alcohol) will be emitted from his mouth as a form of blessing for humans.

It was noon….The sun was now starting to penetrate every gap in the square, warming my body which had been exposed to the cold since morning. It was time to move on to next destination.

Next I would show you the beauty of a goddess in Hindu and Buddhist mythology in Nepal.

Yups….Follow me!

Indra Chowk before Kathmandu Durbar Square

30 May 202129 May 2021travelingpersecond

Unusually, a slightly luxurious breakfast had been prepared on the top floor of Shangrila Boutique Hotel. Fried rice sprinkled with diced buffalo meat, two slices of sausage and a sheet of beef eye egg. Two layers of toast with a sheet of cheese were also prepared. Then they closed with a cup of hot black coffee.

A full stomach and I was ready to enter the past Nepalese glory that will be implied in every inch of area in Kathmandu Durbar Square, one of three famous Durbar Square in Nepal. “Durbar” itself means “palace”. So actually Durbar Square is a palace square in general.

Walking in Amrit Marg, the warm morning sun eased my steps when I must defeat 9 degrees Celcius air which was still reluctant to move up. While coughing had inhabited my throat since a day ago due to dust which continued to be uncontrollably inhaled. “It’s okay, tomorrow I fly to New Delhi, surely air will be cleaner there,” I thought to calm myself. This belief kept Ambroxol tablets which I brought from Jakarta still intact.

Now I was starting to enter a number of narrow intricate turns. Andesite-floor streets lined with a row of sun-blocking shophouses and spreading of irregular signboards. Even in Jyatha Marg, it was decorated by the very tangled knotted strands of electric cables.

Nepalese electric officer must be adept at dealing with electrical damage.

Gemitir flower trader on the edge of Chandraman Singh Marg.

It was time to step out at last intersection before entering the famous Indra Chowk area. It was 10 a.m. but shops along Chandraman Singh Marg were still closed. Meanwhile, motorbikes which were passing could be counted in a matter of fingers.

A few steps, the area which I headed for was in front of my eyes, intersection of five streets with very high activity. The rumble of morning trading which stunned me to observe it from a intersection side. This was Indra Chowk, an area which for centuries had been a famous trading center in Kathmandu district. Anyone who wanted to hunt for Nepalese clothes, souvenirs or tasting local food then just came here!

Entering intersection area from north side via Chandraman Singh Marg, I could see other four roads which made up the intersection, namely Siddhidas Marg (from Northeast), Watu Marg, Sukra Path, and Siddhidas Marg (from Southwest). All five lead to a broad circle with an iconic view of Aakash Bhairav temple.

*Aakash Bhairav* yang bersejara The historic Aakash Bhairav became Nepal’s first king’s palace.

Stepping back, away from the noise of Indra Chowk while holding Dhaka Topi which I bought from a shophouse, a less crowded street greeted me again.

On this street, there was an interesting spot. Public knew it as Makhan Tole. A famous art spot in Kathmandu. There were many fine arts works here and of course many travelers chase them.

From Makhan Tole, it only took 5 minutes walking to Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Let’s explore what were in Kathmandu Durbar Square …….

Bollywood Dance in Thamel

20 May 2021travelingpersecond

I was put in the first floor room to the right of Shangrila Boutiqe Hotel’s reception desk. Putting my 45 litre backpack and took my boots off, after some time, I let the warm water splash my tired body after almost half a day of hard journey in a road trip leaving Pokhara.

Not wanting to be trapped in boredom at my room, I started stepping red carpeted stairs to hotel’s roof. At above, a young man who standing at cash counter greeted and offered me a special restaurant menu. There wasn’t special menu which I ordered, I would just spend the evening with a cup of hot tea and enjoying the charm of Thamel area from above.

Until my adventure desires teased. It felt like a loss if I didn’t move closer to the road and directly enjoying the atmosphere. Thamel was really special. Imagine, the streets were dedicated every night especially for their country’s guests. Each end of the road was guarded by police who wouldn’t allow motorized vehicles to passing through. Thamel was always crowded with travelers to spend the Kathmandu’s night.

Still dusty….I walked along the streets lined with pashmina outlets, souvenirs, restaurants, money changers, hotels or tourism agency offices on either side of it. Tips for you….If you aren’t interesting in buying pashmina, then don’t try to bid it, the seller will ask you to transact in their outlet and they are the best negotiators and I make sure that you will go out from their stall with carrying one of their wares.

Typical colorful flags like on their shrine.

I had a little trouble in finding dinner menu because I purposely avoided a restaurant menu. I struggled to find a food stall for dinner. Exiting and entering some alleys until finally I found it, really far into the alley. Luckily, this food stall provided momo. To completing this Nepalese typical food, I ordered a small glass of honey lemon mixed with ginger slices which made me feel warm.

Back on the street after almost an hour sitting at the food stall. Passing a different road, I stopped at an intersection and turned to the right. A crowd with music kicking off Chaksibari Marg. After approaching it, it turned out that a group of dancers were practicing Bollywood dance. It was also fun to directly see the dance.

Getting colder, I left the crowd and headed straight for the hotel. But because of a tourist area, some bar waitress stopped my steps. Now a young man spoke to me and offering me to spend a warm evening at a bar. “You can enjoy our band performance“, he said. I who have never entered a bar in my life, starting to be tempted, “Okay, there’s nothing wrong to try“, I thought.

As a result, I started walking on the steps of Sisha Bar & Restaurant. It was true, a local band with 4 millennial youth members with 1 female vocalist was singing local pops which made me excited to sit down and enjoying the show. Until I drank two large portions of hot lemon with honey for enjoying the band show.

Beautiful and unforgettable evening in Thamel

Wrong Seat in Pokhara-Kathmandu Tourist Bus

12 May 202112 May 2021travelingpersecond

Mr. Tirtha still accompanied me to speak, we leaned back in his tiny taxi while observing the bustle around Tourist Bus Park. Several hawkers took turn getting on and off in all small sized-buses offering their wares.

A while later, Mr. Tirtha widely spread his arms and we lightly hugged as a substitute for saying “thank you and see you later”. I entered a bus on half an hour before departure. It would be better because Mr. Tirtha could immediately continue work with his taxi.

The conductor showed me a seat where I should sit. At second row behind driver which was limited by a glass screen. Now situation became tense, when an Indian spouse argued with the conductor. They felt were aggrieved because a ticket agent in Kathmandu had promised them to giving them a front seat. The conductor casually snapped back, “This is Pokhara, Not Kathmandu”. Instantly situation was silence. I just realized, that spouse wanted my seat…. Hahaha, even though I was asked to exchange, I didn’t refuse either. Seriously.

Three European tourists in the front seat near driver had fun playing cards the whole way.

Three and a half hours after departure on 7 am, bus stopped for breakfast break for 20 minutes after an hour earlier, bus had once done 15 minutes of toilet break. Hotel’s breakfast which Mr. Raj prepared on the last morning seemed quite effective for me to didn’t spend any consumption budget this time. Come on!, let me showed you how the restaurant which I stopped at:

The hat which used by the cashier was called as Dhaka Topi.

Yups, I still full….Just drank a coffee.

I felt hungry at lunch break on 1:30 p.m., enjoying a thali (Indian wide plate) of food which I picked up from buffet table for 400 Rupee and drink a free-orange juice which was given to all passengers since our departure in Pokhara.

My watch pointed to 15:34 hours. The last toilet break was the most memorable part. Taking the time to explore area around the rest area. I moved towards a side of road and enjoyed panoramic view of valley and ravine below.

Impressed with situation on a side of road, I entered a small alley and saw a glimpse of local residents activities who living on a side of road. Observing a banner which stucked in a concrete wall, I tried to slightly open an outer skin of Nepal’s politics.

Nepal is a parliamentary republic which has four main political parties. The Communist Party of Nepal (CPN) became the winning party in Nepal which placed two important figures, namely Khadga Prasad Sharma Oli as Prime Minister and Bidhya Devi Bhandari as President of the country.

Back in bus seat, this time, my journey encountered a terrible traffic jam when it descended the last hill nearing Kathmandu border. Looked like a traffic jam in Cianjur on the weekend (Cianjur is tourist destination near my home).

The bus arrived in Kanti Path Road on 17:08 hours. Excessive fatigue persuaded me to immediately looked for Shangrila Boutique Hotel in Thamel area. I walked through many narrow alleys and asking to local people to find the location. Only walking for 20 minutes, I finally found the hotel.

I handed over 2.300 Rupee as the rate of staying per night. This time, I would spend 2 nights in Kathmandu to enjoy the city.

Tourist Bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara

11 February 202127 February 2021travelingpersecond

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Enough with 300 Rupee for 10 minutes, riding a taxi from Thamel to Kanti Path Road. If you weren’t afraid of getting lost, you could also walk for 20-25 minutes.

My imagination told me that a bus which I was chasing would standby at a travel agent office. But the reality was far beyond presupposition. All buses from various travel agents lined up along Kanti Path Road.

48 minutes before departure, I took time to have a light breakfast because this was a long journey which I myself didn’t know how the travel time management was.

*BG’s Coffee Shop which had opened on a side of Kanti Path Road.*

You could also have breakfast on sidewalk, guys….Wouw, a child was pious to help his father in selling food.

I already ordered the ticket via email from Jakarta for 750 Rupee, it was just the payment was do at departure location. It was a strange transaction which I encountered for the first time abroad. Now the problem was only one, I had to be transferred to another bus because according to ticket seller, a bus which I ordered was fullseat (it seemed that this was their strategy, catching passengers via email first and regarding which bus would be placed on, that was the next business….Hahaha, smart).

Amazingly, I was only given a ticket and then asked to independently find a bus along Kanti Path Road based on a number plate on the ticket. I confidently executed his order. It was just that, just walking for 5 minutes to looking for it, I started to get overwhelmed….Yes, it was puzzling!….Nepali numeric was different from Latin numeric!.

Worse …. Now half an hour to departure began to be count down. Armed with no communication access, I returned to starting point of searching to ask ticket seller who seemed to be concurrently as bus coordinator. Dizziness was made by him because I couldn’t find him. I showed my ticket to several people around, they just shouted “wait!…. wait!”. Trying to disguise my panic with 15 minutes remaining to departure time, my eyes closely watched crowd one by one to find the person who I was looking for. Yes, I recognized green color of his winter beanie and a polyphonic phone necklace around his neck. I approached and asked him to help me in finding the bus which was referred to in the ticket….Yes, he only briefly said “Looking for light green bus….Row number three from the front”. Seeing her busy and impossible to accompany me in looking fo the bus, I immediately ran towards front row.

Finally, a light green bus departed at 7 o’clock. Armed with a liter of free mineral water, I sat in the back seat with Korean students who would then have a friendly conversation throughout 8.5 hours journey to Phokara.

Along the way, the bus would stop four times.

Twice for toilet breaks for 15 minutes, i.e 1st break stop on 9:30 hours and 4th break stop on 14:30 hours.

Apart from toilet breaks, bus would also stop twice for meals, each with a duration of 20 minutes. 2nd break stop for breakfast on 10:30 hours and 3rd break stop for lunch on 13:30 hours. I paid a little attention to restaurant cashier table. It was seen that if how many of food was taken, passenger would pay for 450 Rupee.

You have to be fast if you didn’t want to be left by bus.

I didn’t even have time to chew it….I swallowed it in my mouth.

During the trip, I was really fascinated when I was presented with views from right side. Leaves were turning white because of thick dust from streets, giant billboards which were displayed in the middle of rice fields, suspension bridges which connecting hills, rafting along river and bustling Chandragiri Cable Car tour. Even I could be made to smile by residents behavior in sunbathing in 9° C air while playing carom or some of them surround fire which was lit in house yard.

Rice fields also became commercial land.

Slowly bus climbed, descended and circled mountains with ravines on the right. I wasn’t too worried because bus was slowly running. A thing that then made me realized that most of cars, trucks and buses in Nepal came from Tata Motor manufacturer, India.

Look at trucks in mining area along Kathmandu-Pokhara.

I thought bus which labeled with “Tourist Bus” word wouldn’t pick up passengers on streets, it turned out that its little conductor had picked up passengers twice, but the better ting was no one stood up in bus.

The trip was stopped due to a wheel leak on 15 minutes before reaching Pokhara. The conductor was a teenager who struggling to change bus wheel, luckyly three taxi drivers came to help. In this condition, I still managed to do transactions at a street market to get a bag of oranges for 100 Rupee. But repairing took too long time and didn’t fast finish, so I was finally transferred to another bus.

In Pokhara, bus would stop at Tourist Bus Park with a view of the Himalayas behind it…..pretty amazing.

Ignoring many offering from taxi drivers, I rushed to a travel agent office, not far from where I got off. Yup….I took initiative to immediately order a return ticket to Kathmandu because later I would fly to New Delhi via Tribhuvan International Airport. This travel agent offered three types of ticket prices, ranging from 650 to 850 Rupee depending on bus quality. Not taking it long, I chose the cheapest price.

Let’s Explore Pokhara!

Check out a video which was related to this article here: https://youtu.be/sSDNtAYx0tQ

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Sweet Spicy Sour Panipuri at Swayambhunath Stupa

3 February 202111 February 2021travelingpersecond

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Receptionist: “Mr. Donny Suryanto from Indonesia? ”, greeted me when he got closer to his desk.

Me: “How do you know me?“.

Receptionist: “Yes Sir, we are waiting for you. Our last room which we have. And you have kept it via Booking.com “

Me: “Yeaa wright….Hahaha, excellent”, Simultaneously signed a confirmation sheet with a smile.

I entered Holiday House Hotel room for 1,100 Rupee. Planning to stop overnight in Kathmandu. And next morning, I left for Pokhara to enjoy the Himalayas.

Limited time forced me to hurry up. Without taking a bath and immediately took a folding bag to fill it with important items, then heading to Swayambhunath Stupa.

Now I walked along narrow streets of Thamel with inevitable suction of dust with every step. Distinctive smell of dust was obscured by pungent smell of incense which slowly diminished by small embers in pashmina stalls.

I approached a driver who was wiping his tiny taxi from dust, then started a transaction to Swayambhunath Stupa which was 3 km away from hotels where I was staying. I deliberately canceled to walking because I was worried that it was getting late.

400 Rupee was my agreement with him. During trip, Nepali pop songs, which I never understood, made my head nod in following its tune. Every now and then the driver who was the owner of that taxi looked at me with full of smiles and finally we nod together.

Taxi driver advised me to get off at top gate of shrine. He said it took a long time if I had to tread from bottom gate. After I agreed to his suggestion, that tiny taxi slowly drove in a circle following Swayambhu hill contour and dropped me off right at front gate.

Security: “Where are you come from?“

Me: “Indonesia, Sir“

Security: “Oh, I know…. I know…. Jokowi“.

Me: “Hahaha great….You know that“

Security: “He is very famous here“, he said while tore my entrance ticket for 200 Rupee.

It was true, according to its nickname, i.e “Monkey Temple”, area around stupa was often found monkeys which cheering up tourists arrival in front courtyard. Crossing “the peace pool” which full of coins which were tossed by travelers. It was said that they believe their prayers would come true if they throw coins. I continued up the stairs to worship’s main place at hill top.

Rotate it and your prayers would be answered.

Congregation took turns coming and turning prayer wheels one by one…. Of course they hoped that Buddha would grant their request.

Around the stupa, souvenir sellers offered their merchandises to tourists. Souvenirs made fro metal which dull because of were exposed by dust didn’t deter tourists to buying and owning them.

Lots of souvenir were requested by my frends….

Passing through each groove around stupa, dogs as guard animals looked limp and some of them were asleep anywhere. Meanwhile, thousands of colorful prayer flags neatly lined up on a rope which centered on stupa and stretched out in various directions.

Meanwhile, on other side, there was a sunset which splashes the city with a reddish-yellow spectrum. Combination of religious nuances and natural beauty which really spoiled the eyes.

Kek BandLike Bandung City which was seen from Bukit Bintang, right?

Exiting at the same gate, I took time to walk down street, watching activity of street food stalls. My steps stopped when a husband and wife who selling panipuri were busy. Then I redeemed a portion for 100 Rupee and started to enjoying Nepal’ street food for the first time. Spicy taste mixed with sweet and sour, also strong aroma of curry made me a little slow to swallow every piece of panipuri which I bought. In the end, that seller spouse laughed at me when I chewed that snacks while glaring.

After enjoying this famous South Asian folk-style snack, I stopped a taxi which had just dropped its passengers. It was time to go to hotel, took a shower and got ready to enjoy dinner on my first night in Nepal.

Bye Swayambhunath….Got ready to go to Pokhara tomorrow.

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Old Transportation from Tribhuvan International to Thamel

27 January 202111 February 2021travelingpersecond

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Thai Airways TG 319 was perfectly parked in Tribhuvan International Airport’s apron at exactly 14:08 hours. There wasn’t aerobridge which greet me, one by one passengers descended the stairs on either side of plane door.

Aviation security: “Hi, Sir….Please, directly stepping to airport building!“, While stepping closer while hold a handy talky and his hand clearly pointing at my face….Assertive with a dark skin and thick mustache.

Me: “OK, Sir….I’m sorry“, without thinking, I put a black Motorola E4 into right pocket of Emba’s brown pants whixh I was wearing.

In the end, I failed to capture my face image along with Thai Airways TG 319 in one frame because of it. Then I began to enter in passengers queuing who entered into terminal building.

My hands tightly gripped my backpack’s shoulder harnesses and my face saw from side to side, paying close attention to Tribhuvan’s interior, which momentarily felt like I was passing through a temple room. Red-brown brick patterned walls with several carved decorations were scattered in every corner of room. Then I was greeted by a line of Visa on Arrival application machines on left side. Without any command, I understood and immediately took a queue at machine in the middle.

In the queue, I was intrigued by behavior of a son who was inputting visa data for his mother who not tall. He ordered his mother to step closer.

Snap 01….Just her forehead which was captured….Failed.

Then he told his mother to tiptoe.

Snap 02….The photo was 100% her face….Failed again.

A second later, his mother while looking at me with full of smiles, stood on top of small cardboard which she was still carrying a while ago.

Snap 03….Yeaaaa….It worked.

I immediately went to payment counter after successfully printed out the VoA application form. No needed to queue long, I got my visa after handing over USD 25 to female staff who wearing blue saris and on middle-aged age. “Oh, Indonesia. Welcome to Nepal and enjoy your trip. ”, She said when ending our immigration transaction.

Now I was getting closer to arrival hall exit gate. Before I actually went out, I took very slow steps to read whole information in a hallway. Instantly I quickly stopped at information board which displayed transportation rate to several areas in Kathmandu. Finally, I was relieved to find the word “Thamel” which became my next destination. It was only cost 700 Rupee (USD 6) to got in a dull red minivan which could accommodate 4 passengers and its last row seats were removed and changed as luggage.

Ticket seller: “Where will you go, Sir?” Asked to me while holding a wad of red transaction notes.

Me: “Thamel, Sir“.

Ticket seller: “Do you want private booking or shared booking?“.

Me: “Is there someone who is ready to join with me?“.

Ticket seller: “Come!… .Come!”, he asked me to follow him and out through airport door.

Competition in tourism services in Thamel area.

After a while, I finally entered an old car which looked like a Suzuki “Carry” (Carry is a brand from Suzuki manufacturing in Indonesia) from the 80s. The car slowly drove leaving Tribhuvan and down a dusty road. Yes, only dust which I remembered in the first time when I had to tell about this “Land of a Thousand Temples”.

At an intersection, the car stopped and was entered a man who dressed in dapper Bollywood style and accented with extraordinary English. Offers all kinds of tour packages, from hiking, rafting, trekking and canoeing. It was common knowledge that Nepalis were competing to earn money from their tourism excellence which was famous for the beauty of Himalaya. I told him that I had bought all tour packages which I was going to take while stayed in his country from Jakarta via online. Even though, in fact I never had any tour packages which I prepared. I prefered to follow my heart and foot in my Kathmadu and Pokhara exploration.

Hotel Holiday House for 1,100 Rupee (USD 9.4) per night.

Passing the Ring Road route, I continued to be stunned by road view which at a glance resembled to old Indonesia. Thamel, which was only 6 km away from Tribhuvan, was finally reached in 25 minutes.

Now I entered a famous tourist area in Kathmandu. Dropped down in an alley and taxi driver showed me which way to head towards hotel which I had booked.

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