Backpacking to Magelang….Enjoying “Lima Gunung” Festival.

Magelang….a small town in Central Java Province, Indonesia which since Dutch colonial era was known as armed forces producer. But my arrival here was unrelated to military even though two members of my family were soldiers from Magelang barracks.

This time I had a opportunity to climb to east slope of Merapi mountain for enjoying the beauty of “Tutup Ngisor” village. A village where is famous for its efforts to preserve dance culture through a Padepokan Seni “Tjipta Boedaja” (in english: “Tjipta Boedaja” dance gallery) which was founded in 1937 ago.

And a main reason for my arrival there was the 18th “Lima Gunung” Festival (FLG XVIII). The festival which is able to attract my interest to heading there amid my dense work activities in capital city.

The festival is named “Lima Gunung” (in english: Five Mountains)…. Referring to five mountain names located around Magelang district i.e Merapi, Merbabu, Menoreh, Sumbing and Andong.


My journey to Magelang used a legendary bus service which had triumphed in year 1990-2000, namely PO Santoso. Old and “voiced” bus slowly but surely drove and dropped me to Magelang on cold Saturday morning (6/7/19).

The warmth of long black coffee in a cold morning disrupted my eyes to close and required me to accompany my morning until dawn coming.

A shadow of festival’s majesty continued to disrupt my concentration that morning. And after the dawn came, a brother-in-law’s white hatchback began to split green rice fields towards festival.

I have to be willing to lag one session, because this event has been started since Friday (7/7/19) afternoon. A road to Tutup Ngisor village that has been closed for several types of public transportation indicates that this festival will be attended by many visitors, and finally I had to park the car a little far from village gate.

A few steps later I arrived.

Java eagle as stage background. This bird is believed to give a sign when Merapi volcano will erupt.

My Whatsapp continued to actively reply some messages to find someone who had an important role in my presence at this festival. Our friendship in blogging world started since a year ago and finally we met here.

He is Yokhanan who give a big contribution in my arrival at festival this time. Finally, we can meet in an event after we each other just contact in blogging world for a long time….Thanks, “Brother” Yo.


In addition to local performers, the festival was also enlivened by performers from other countries. Likewise with visitors….international visitors were also coming….It was cool.

Kaori Okado from Japan performed “Gambir Anom” dance. She is a good Japanese dancer.
Well, this photo is deliberately displayed, it’s nothing…I just interest to see Putri who was very exotic….hahaha, it’s heard naughty.

FLG XVIII presented 79 performers, all performances were presented in 3 days duration (5-7th July 2019) with 20 minutes show time for each performance. Really massive agenda, visitors were required to be smart to choose performance which they wanted to see within timeframe which was prepared by committee.

“Barong Gunung” dance from Sanggar Rangkul Dulur (Lumajang, East Java Province)

This 18-year-old festival was also independently organized by “Lima Gunung” Community without sponsors. This is based on a commitment that community is trying to maintain art purity so willn’t be contaminated by commercial businesses.

“Gedruk Pangekes” dance from Sanggar Gaboet Wasesa (Magelang, Central Java province).

Carrying a theme of “Gunung Lumbung Budaya” (in english: “Mountain is Source of Culture”), shows that villages are main enclave of cultural guards amid swift influences of modernization. Villages are expected to be the guardian of diverse cultural originality which dance is one of them.

“Uni Ing Geprak” dance from Gramang Art Community (Special Province of Yogyakarta).

“Lima Gunung” festival is usually held close to Dieng Culture Festival. So these two events can be visited alternately if you want to feel how lively art parties in Java land.

“Subali Senopatya” dance by Culture Board of Bantul (Special Province of Yogyakarta).

FLG XVIII committee was organized on by millennials, this was very visible from many young faces of committee members, event concept was neatly arranged and brought an interesting theme. Stage design also looked very modern when night. Light shot towards stage wasn’t inferior to many performances in capital city.

“Brahmarupa” dance in collaboration with Kemlaka Sound of Archipelago and Pesona Nusantara Surakarta (Central Java Province).

FLG XVIII slipped a session i.e Culture Carnival of “Lima Gunung” Community around “Tutup Ngisor” village on third day of festival.

Culture Carnival of “Lima Gunung” Community preparation.


There are several other things that can be found during FLG XVIII. Visitors could enjoy it as an added bonus for their presence in “Tutup Ngisor” village.

Padepokan Tjipta Boedaja (“Tjipta Boedaja” Dance Gallery).

Almost all Tjipta Boedjaja’s art activities are did out in this gallery.

Gallery is often used for Wayang Menak show by villagers.

The Tomb of Roso Yoso Soedarmo.

Roso Yoso Soedarmo is a central figure in art development at “Tutup Ngisor” village. Padepokan Tjipta Boedaja was born as his initiation. Because of his pioneering work in art, “Tutup Ngisor” village has consistently produced artistic talents until now.

This is the tomb.

“Lumbung Karya” Art Exhibition

This art exhibition displayed various artworks in form of paintings, sculptures, dance costumes and masks.

Father and his son also took pictures in exhibition gallery.
It was good right….masks felt alive.
He was carving something in wood.

“Mangunsuko” Suspension Bridge.

During festival, MC always reminded visitors fo didn’t miss a view from Jokowi Bridge (the famous name of Mangunsuko Suspension Bridge). Hearing this repetitive emphasis, made me curious. And on my first day of arrival at “Tutup Ngisor” village, I immediately visited this bridge.

Like a suspension bridge in general….sway if we step on it….hahaha.
Enchanting mini waterfall.
Beware, don’t eat there… can be bitten by a tiger.

Transit House

Transit house is a term for a resident’s home which was voluntarily and unpaid used to stay for festival visitors. Strong spirit of mutual cooperation, making every village residents is very compact in competing to provide transit house during FLG XVIII.

Complete combination, visitors can also stay in tents in front of transit house.


During my visitation in FLG XVIII, there were two culinary which have left an impression until today.

Nasi Lesah (“Lesah” Rice) is an Magelang’s original rice with a mixture of vegetable sprouts, vermicelli, sliced tofu, small pieces of beef, fried onions and celery. Then it was poured with soup of hot coconut milk…..ulala.

Eating Nasi Lesah for first time.

Wine Coffee….For me who is a beginner coffee fan, finding wine coffee was something special. “Kopi Tanpa Nama” Coffee Shop which was located near stage, provided a “Sindoro Wine Coffee” menu with a very pleasant wine aroma.

Wine coffee can also be called fermented coffee or coffee which undergoes 30 days fermentation process before it is roasted.

So … Want to go to “Lima Gunung” Festival in 2020?….Let’s go with me.

Menuju Magelang….Menikmati Festival Lima Gunung.

Magelang….sebuah kota kecil di Propinsi Jawa Tengah yang sejak zaman Belanda terkenal sebagai produsen perwira Angkatan Bersenjata Republik ini. Tapi kedatanganku kesini tak terkait dengan dunia militer walaupun dua anggota keluargaku adalah serdadu hasil gemblengan barak Magelang.

Kali ini Aku berkesempatan menanjak ke lereng timur Merapi untuk menikmati pesona Desa Tutup Ngisor. Sebuah desa yang terkenal karena usaha pelestarian budaya tarinya melalui sebuah Padepokan Seni “Tjipta Boedaja” yang berdiri pada tahun 1937 silam.

Dan alasan utama kedatanganku adalah Festival Lima Gunung ke-18 (FLG XVIII). Festival yang mampu menarik minatku untuk merangsek kesana ditengah padatnya aktivitas pekerjaan di Ibu Kota.

Festival ini dinamakan demikian….Mengacu pada lima nama gunung yang terletak di sekitar Magelang yaitu Merapi, Merbabu, Menoreh, Sumbing dan Andong.


Perjalananku menuju Magelang menggunakan jasa bus legendaris yang pernah berjaya di masanya yaitu PO Santoso. Bus yang sudah berumur dan “bersuara” ini perlahan tapi pasti mengantarkanku tiba di Magelang tepat di dinginnya Sabtu (6/7/19) dini hari.

Hangatnya kopi hitam di tengah dinginnya pagi mengganggu terpejamnya mata dan mengharuskanku menemani Si Pagi yang tengah menjemput Fajar.

Bayangan keagungan festival terus mengganggu konsentrasiku di pagi itu. Dan setelah sang fajar datang, hatchback putih milik Ipar mulai membelah hijaunya persawahan.

Aku harus rela tertinggal satu sesi, karena acara ini sudah dimulai sejak Jum’at (5/7/19) siang. Jalanan menuju Tutup Ngisor yang sudah ditutup untuk beberapa jenis kendaraan umum menunjukkan bahwa festival ini akan dihadiri banyak pengunjung, bahkan akhirnya Aku harus memarkirkan mobil sedikit jauh dari gerbang desa.

Beberapa langkah kemudian Aku tiba.

Elang Jawa sebagai background panggung. Burung ini diyakini sebagai pemberi tanda jika gunung Merapi akan meletus.

Whatsapp ku terus aktif berbalas pesan untuk mencari seseorang yang punya peran penting dalam kehadiranku di festival ini. Perkenalanku di dunia maya setahun lalu (….kek ABG aja) akhirnya dipertemukan disini.

Dialah Mas Yokhanan yang  berjasa besar dalam kedatanganku di festival kali ini. Akhirnya Kita pun bisa kopdar di sela acara setelah sekian lama cuma ledek-meledek di dunia blogging….Thanks ya, Mas Yo.


Selain performer lokal, festival ini juga dimeriahkan performer dari negeri sebelah. Begitu juga dengan para pengunjung….pengunjung internasional juga banyak yang datang lhoooo….Keren kan.

Kaori Okado dari Jepang membawakan tari Gambir Anom. Masak kalah sama orang Jepang?
Nah foto ini sengaja kupajang, bukan apa-apa sih….Suka aja liat Si Putri yang eksotik banget…..hihihi, nakal.

FLG XVIII menghadirkan 79 performer yang keseluruhannya disajikan dalam durasi 3 hari (5-7 Juli 2019) dengan rata-rata waktu tampil 20 menit untuk setiap performance. Padat banget ya, pengunjung dituntut cerdas untuk memilih performance yang ingin mereka lihat dalam rentang waktu yang disiapkan panitia.

Tari Barong Gunung dari Sanggar Rangkul Dulur (Lumajang)

Festival yang sudah berusia 18 tahun ini juga diselenggarakan secara mandiri oleh Komunitas Lima Gunung tanpa sponsor. Hal ini didasari pada komitmen bahwa komunitas berusaha menjaga kemurnian seni agar tidak terkontaminasi oleh bisnis komersial.

Tari Gedruk Pangekes dari Sanggar Gaboet Wasesa (Magelang).

Mengusung tema “Gunung Lumbung Budaya”, menunjukkan bahwa desa adalah kantong utama penjaga budaya di tengah derasnya pengaruh modernisasi. Desa diharapkan menjadi penjaga orisinalitas beranekaragam budaya dimana seni tari adalah salah satunya.

Tari Uni Ing Geprak dari Gramang Art Community (Yogyakarta).

Festival Lima Gunung biasanya diadakan berdekatan dengan Dieng Culture Festival. Jadi dua event ini bisa didatangi bergantian jika ingin merasakan bagaimana meriahnya pesta seni di tanah Jawa.

Tari Subali Senopatya dari Dinas Kebudayaan Bantul.

Kepanitiaan FLG XVIII digarap oleh para millennial, hal ini sangat terlihat dari wajah muda para anggota panitia, konsep acara yang tersusun rapi dan detail serta mengusung tema yang menarik. Desain panggung pun terlihat sangat modern ketika malam tiba. Tembakan lampu ke arah panggung tak kalah dengan pertunjukan-pertunjukan anak muda Ibu Kota.

Tari Brahmarupa berkolaborasi dengan Kemlaka Sound of Archipelago dan Pesona Nusantara Surakarta.

FLG XVIII menyelipkan sesi Kirab Budaya Komunitas Lima Gunung mengelilingi Desa Tutup Ngisor pada hari ketiga pelaksanaan.

Persiapan Kirab Komunitas Lima Gunung.


Ada beberapa hal lain yang bisa ditemukan selama penyelenggaraan FLG XVIII. Para pengunjung bisa menikmatinya sebagai bonus tambahan atas kehadirannya di Desa Tutup Ngisor.

Padepokan Tjipta Boedaja

Hampir seluruh kegiatan kesenian padepokan ini dilakukan di pendopo ini.

Pendopo yang sering digunakan untuk pementasan Wayang Menak oleh warga desa.

Makam Roso Yoso Soedarmo.

Roso Yoso Soedarmo adalah tokoh sentral dalam pengembangan seni di Tutup Ngisor. Padepokan Tjipta Boedaja lahir atas inisiasi beliau. Berkat kepeloporannya dalam seni, Tutup Ngisor konsisten melahirkan bakat-bakat seni hingga saat ini.

Bangunan makam Romo Roso Yoso Soedarmo

Pameran Seni “Lumbung Karya”

Pameran seni ini menampilkan berbagai karya seni berupa lukisan, patung, kostum tari dan topeng.

Anak dan Bapak pun ikut berfoto ria di galeri pameran.
Bagus kan….topengnya serasa hidup
Si Mas sedang mengukir sesuatu di kayu

Jembatan Gantung Mangunsuko

MC sepanjang acara selalu mengingatkan pengunjung festival untuk tidak melewatkan suguhan pemandangan di Jembatan Jokowi (nama tenar dari Jembatan Mangunsuko). Mendengar penekanan berulang-ulang tersebut, membuat rasa penasaran menyerangku. Dan dihari pertama kedatanganku di Tutup Ngisor, Aku langsung meyambangi jembatan ini

Seperti jembatan gantung pada umumnya….goyang-goyang euy…..aseekkk
Air terjun mini yang mempesona
Awas jangan makan disitu…bisa digigit macan

Rumah Transit

Rumah transit adalah sebutan untuk rumah warga yang secara sukarela dan tanpa pungutan sepeserpun digunakan sebagai tempat menginap para pengunjung festival. Kuatnya jiwa gotong royong, menjadikan setiap warga sangat kompak dalam berlomba-lomba menyediakan rumah singgah selama FLG XVIII.

Kombinasi lengkap, pengunjung pun bisa bertenda di depan rumah transit.


Selama keikutsertaan Saya dalam FLG XVIII, ada dua jenis kuliner yang membekas hati hingga saat ini.

Nasi Lesah merupakan nasi khas Magelang dengan campuran sayur taoge, bihun, irisan tahu bacem, potongan kecil daging sapi, bawang goreng dan sledri. Kemudian diguyur kuah soto bersantan yang masih panas….Wadaaauuwww

Pertama kalinya makan Nasi Lesah

Wine Coffee….Buat Saya yang penggemar pemula kopi, menemukan wine coffee adalah hal yang istimewa. Kedai Kopi Tanpa Nama yang berada dilokasi pameran menyediakan menu Sindoro Wine yang aroma wine nya sangat terasa nikmat.

Wine coffee juga bisa disebut dengan fermented coffee atau kopi yang mengalami proses fermentasi sebelum menjadi biji kopi.

So…Mau ikut ke Festival Lima Gunung tahun 2020?…..Kuy hal.