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  • 7 Tourist Attractions in Pekanbaru

    Entering Pekanbaru, all INTRA Bus passengers were unloaded in a non-permanent restaurant building which is made from green colour wood. Entering in back of restaurant, long row of simple bathrooms made me easy to washing my face and preparing myself to explore “Madani City“.

    Entering city’s roads for the first time on an online motorcycle taxi seat, I began to save my curiosity about destinations which I could visit in the city. Until I finally arrived at Sri Indrayani Hotel lobby before check-in schedule. After charging my camera and smartphone to several cell bars in the hotel restaurant, I immediately swung my steps to nearest spots.

    1. Tunjuk Ajar Integritas Park

    Not far away, half a kilometer to northwest of hotel, there is a fairly well-known park in Pekanbaru. It is Tunjuk Ajar Integritas Park which has became a favorite play ground for city residents whice its development is dedicated to corruption resistance program in local government.

    Integrity Monument in the park.

    Not yet midday, hot air began to feel. Forcing me to took a shelter on park edge. Visitors was still quiet, considering I didn’t visit on weekend.

    2. Siak River

    Continuing my steps, I went down to Wakaf Street before finally being led by a traffic policeman to turn right and passing Jembatan Siak I street then reached edge of Siak River.

    Visiting Siak River and imagining the glory and prosperity of Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate who once stood on this river edge was a thing that was interested me to made it as one of my destinations this time.

    Panorama of Siak I Bridge.

    3. Tuan Kadi’s Halfway House

    Still wandering along the river, now I headed to Siak II Bridge. People call it as Bridge of Sultan Muhammad Ali Abdul Jalil Muazzam Syah, taken from name of the 5th Sultan of Siak Sultanate.

    Stunned to stare at a building under the bridge, an original house since golden era of Siak Sultanate. This tourism site is known in the name Tuan Kadi’s Halfway House. Kadi or Qadhi itself is a famous title during the sultanate. The first owner of this house is Qadhi Haji Zakaria bin Haji Abdul Muthalib who had served as Chairperson of Siak Sultanate’s Shariah Deliberative Board.

    It was once be a stopover for Sultan Syarif Kasim II, the 12th Sultan.

    4. Nur Alam Grand Mosque

    The sun began to slip from its highest position, meaning that I was able to entering Sri Indrayani Hotel’s room. Taking southeast direction, I intended to stop by and praying Dzuhur at Nur Alam Grand Mosque before arriving at hotel.

    The oldest mosque in Pekanbaru.

    The relic mosque of Siak Sri Indrapura Sultanate still firmly stands with its yellow dome as a symbol of Malay greatness. It feels, Pekanbaru residents worth give a thank to Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah, the fourth Sultan who had built this magnificent mosque.

    5. An-Nur Great Mosque

    The heat of city began to subside, especially after I finished to bathing in hotel. Finishing lunch then I continued my exploration. After visiting the oldest mosque, now I headed to the grandest mosque in Riau Province.

    Exhausted after walking almost 4 km, I chose to use an online motorcycle taxi towards An-Nur Great Mosque, two kilometers to southeast.

    Indonesia’s Taj Mahal.

    An-Nur Great Mosque itself has been a religious icon of Riau Province since the first year it was built, in 1963. Make sure that you don’t miss to visiting it when you are in Pekanbaru.

    6. Putri Kaca Mayang Park

    Next, I hurried to downtown. My next choice was Putri Kaca Mayang Park. Located on a side of Pekanbaru’s protocol street, this park looked more presentable than the first park which I visited.

    The park name is taken from a princess name in a legendary tale in society.

    Time that had slipped towards afternoon, one by one residents were seen coming to the park to just releasing fatigue or bringing their children to spending time by playing around the park.

    7. Jenderal Sudirman Street

    Like the same street name in Jakarta, Jenderal Sudirman Street in Pekanbaru also plays a role as a protocol road in the city.

    As a main road, of course there are many things which can be enjoyed along the way. Road width with busy passing of vehicles is decorated by classy buildings architecture on both sides made Jenderal Sudirman street as a photography spot which worth to visiting.

    The Soeman HS Library, Lancang Kuning Tower, Riau Governor’s Office and Dang Merdu Tower are architectures which look striking and different from other buildings along Jenderal Sudirman Street.

    The road is decorated with Asmaul Husna along its edge.

    Come on, vacation to Pekanbaru!

  • Indra Chowk sebelum Kathmandu Durbar Square

    Bersiap sarapan.

    Tak seperti biasanya, santapan pagi sedikit mewah telah disiapkan di lantai teratas Shangrila Boutique Hotel. Nasi goreng bertabur potongan dadu daging kerbau, dua potong sosis dan selembar telur mata sapi. Masih pula disiapkan dua lapis toast berselai selembar keju. Kemudian ditutup dengan secangkir kopi hitam panas.

    Perut kenyang dan aku siap memasuki kejayaan Nepal masa lalu yang akan tersirat pada tiap jengkal area di Kathmandu Durbar Square, satu diantara tiga Durbar Square terkenal di Nepal. “Durbar” sendiri berarti “istana”, sementara “square” berarti “alun-alun”. Jadi sebenarnya Durbar Square adalah alun-alun istana pada umumnya.

    Membilang di Amrit Marg, hangatnya mentari pagi meringankan langkah ketika harus menembus suhu 9 derajat yang masih saja enggan beranjak naik. Sementara batuk telah menghuni tenggorokan sejak sehari lalu akibat debu yang terus terhisap tak terkendali. “Tak apa, besok aku terbang menuju New Delhi, pasti udara akan lebih bersih disana”, batinku menenangkan diri. Keyakinan itu membuat Ambroxol yang kubawa dari Jakarta masih saja utuh.

    Kini aku mulai memasuki sejumlah tikungan rumit sempit. Jalanan berlapis andesit dengan deret ruko penghadang surya dan bertabur signboard tak beraturan. Bahkan di bilangan Jyatha Marg diperparah dengan untaian kabel listrik yang bersimpul sangat kusut.

    Petugas PLN Nepal pasti mahir menangani kerusakan listrik.
    Penjual bunga Gemitir di tepian Chandraman Singh Marg.

    Tiba saatnya melangkah di perempatan terakhir sebelum memasuki area terkenal Indra Chowk. Waktu sudah jam 10 pagi tetapi pertokoan di sepanjang Chandraman Singh Marg masih saja tutup. Sementara itu, sepeda motor yang berlalu-lalang tercacah dalam hitungan jari..

    Pengayuh becak yang beranjak mengais rezeqi.
    Mencicip kacang rebus.

    Beberapa dasa langkah, area yang kusasar ada di depan mata, simpang lima dengan kesibukan sangat tinggi. Gemuruh perniagaan pagi yang membuatku tertegun mengamatinya di suatu sisi. Inilah Indra Chowk, area yang selama berabad-abad telah menjadi sentra perdagangan tersohor di distrik Kathmandu. Siapa saja yang ingin berburu pakaian khas Nepal, souvenir untuk dibawa pulang ataupun merasakan aneka makanan lokal, maka datanglah kesini!

    Pangkalan becak di Indra Chowk.

    Memasuki area simpang lima dari sisi utara melalui Chandraman Singh Marg, aku bisa melihat keempat jalan lain sebagai penyusun simpang yaitu Siddhidas Marg (dari Timur Laut), Watu Marg, Sukra Path, dan Siddhidas Marg (dari Barat Daya). Kelimanya bermuara pada lingkaran luas dengan pemandangan ikonik kuil Aakash Bhairav.

    Aakash Bhairav yang bersejarah menjadi istana raja pertama Nepal.

    Melangkah kembali, menjauhi kebisingan Indra Chowk sembari mencangking Dhaka Topi yang kubeli ketengan, jalanan yang tak begitu ramai kembali menyambut.

    Abege di  Siddhidas Marg….Manis ya?….Hahaha.

    Di jalan inilah terdapat satu spot menarik. Khalayak mengenalnya sebagai Makhan Tole. Spot kesenian terkenal di Kathmandu. Karya seni rupa banyak dijumpai disini dan tentu banyak pelancong yang memburunya.

    Gerbang Makhan Tole.

    Dari Makhan Tole, hanya memerlukan 5 menit berjalan kaki menuju Kathmandu Durbar Square.

    Akhirnya aku sampai juga.

    Yuk kita eksplore apa saja yang ada di Kathmandu Durbar Square ini…….

  • 7 Fast Destination at Pematang Siantar

    Sitting in waiting room, my gaze focused on my watch and INTRA bus office yard….Never saw when he arrived, from right side of the yard, he shouted to me. It was nice to meet an old friend.

    His kindness and simplicity was still the same as Erwin who I met in Kuala Lumpur 2013 ago. Remembered again when he gave me a small box of red cakes on Kuala Lumpur’s Hop on Hop off. And now, he gave me four hours of his time to enjoying Pematang Siantar.

    “Come on, bro, ride up!“, He said while turning backpack to his chest. I Instantly glided on his 90’s Japan motorcycle towards his home. He had to change a teacher uniform which he wore before going around the city.

    1. Warung Miso Pematang

    “Let’s have lunch first, bro! There is something special for you. Come on!“, His smile ignored my rejection because he just wanted to be a good host. Tracing the “rat path” which I never knew its exact location, I felt the rear tire was a bit shaky. It made me believe that Erwin is a sincere and simple person.

    “Warung Miso Pematang. Oh, is this the special dish that is meant?“, I muttered. Erwin rushed into the restaurant with its front door at the back. While I was still in the yard, busy capturing the picture. It was amazingly delicious, a bowl of Miso, a mixture of yellow-white noodles which are flushed with soup mixed with fried tofu, chicken liver-gizzard and mushroom for USD 1.3.

    The dish was closed with fresh orange juice….Yummy.
    The first Siantar specialty food which I tasted.

    2. Pedicab Monument BSA (Birmingham Small Army).

    “Come on, I’ll show you the Siantar icon!“, He spoke while cranked the motor starter. I give a thumb as agree sign. Riding along Sudirman Street until finally arrived at a motorized rickshaw-crowned monument. Supposedly said that this city has almost 1,000 war motorbikes. Therefore you have to queue to be able to take a picture in front of the monument.

    The main character this time.

    3. Sintong Bingei Public Library

    Right behind the monument is a public library owned by the city government while on the right opposite is Pematang Siantar City Hall where the Mayor worked.

    Sintong Bingei Public Library. Sintong Bingei is father of the North Sumatra “Cigarette King“-Edwin Bingei Purbo Siboro.

    4. Pematang Siantar City Hall

    Pematang Siantar City Hall is a century-old Dutch building.

    Gecko ornaments in most of large buildings in Siantar made me to asked a question about it. Erwin briefly explained that gecko is a wisdom and wealth symbol for the Batak ethnic. Local people call it as Gorga Boraspati.

    5. Hangout Area near Pedicab Monument

    While on right side of the monument is a coffee shop row which seems to only wait for short time to be filled by city millennials to hang out at night.

    Unfortunately I didn’t have time to sip the coffee.

    6. Pematang Siantar City’s Bunga Park

    While right behind hang out area is Bunga Park. As a Child Friendly Public Open Space makes this park as a favorite place to spend time with family after work.

    The perfect place to celebrate a weekend for city dwellers.

    7. Ganda Bakery

    “Bro, it’s almost dark, let’s go back to INTRA office!“, Erwin reminded me. I jumped on his motorcycle and hurried to INTRA bus office. Upss ….”Why Bakery?“, I suspected.

    “Don’t flatter yourself, I don’t buy bread for you, but I will buy it for my family at home“, he thinly smiled. I was burst out laughing when seeing his act. I took a moment to enjoy storefronts with fragrant aroma of tempting bread.

    Ganda Bakery is legendary since 1979.

    Ten minutes later, I was standing outside and waiting for him to complete payment at the cashier. And then….He held two packs of bread in his hands.

    “This is for your breakfast tomorrow on the way“, he said while offering a packet of bread with srikaya jam which was famously delicious. It was forbidden to refuse it, so I accepted it with many thanks.

    “Come on, now it’s really going to INTRA Bus office and not stopping by anymore!“, He said with a laugh. That was the end of my fast journey at Pematang Siantar.

    Thank You Erwin. See you later.

  • Goyang Bollywood di Jalanan Thamel

    Aku ditempatkan di kamar lantai pertama dibalik sebelah kanan meja resepsionis Shangrila Boutiqe Hotel. Menaruh backpack 45 liter dan melepas ikat sepatu boots maka selang beberapa waktu, kubiarkan air hangat lama menyiram tubuh lelahku pasca hampir setengah hari berjibaku pada perjalanan darat meninggalkan Pokhara.

    Tak ingin terjebak kejenuhan di dalam kamar, aku mulai menaiki tangga berkarpet merah menuju atap hotel. Di atas, seorang pemuda berdiri di meja kasir menyapa ringan dan menawarkan menu spesial restoran. Tak ada menu spesial yang kupesan, aku hanya akan menghabiskan senja dengan secangkir teh hangat dan menikmati pesona Thamel dari atas.

    Restoran Shangrila Boutique Hotel.

    Hingga kemudian hasrat petualanganku menggoda. Rasanya akan merugi jika tak merapat ke jalan dan menikmati suasana secara langsung. Thamel sungguh istimewa. Betapa tidak, jalanannya tiap malam dipersembahkan khusus untuk para tamu negara itu. Setiap ujung jalan dijaga oleh polisi yang tak akan membiarkan satu pun kendaraan bermotor lolos melintas masuk. Thamel selalu ramai ditumpahi para pelancong untuk menghabiskan malam Kathmandu.

    Aku mulai ke jalanan.
    Suasana sore menjelang gelap.

    Tetap berdebu….Aku menelusuri jalanan yang dibatasi dengan kios-kios pashmina, souvenir, restoran, money changer, hotel ataupun kantor agen pariwisata di kiri-kanannya. Tips buat kamu…Jika tak berminat membeli pashmina, maka jangan berusaha menawarnya, penjual akan mengajakmu bertransaksi di dalam kios dan mereka adalah para negosiator ulung dan kupastikan kamu akan keluar dengan menenteng salah satu dari dagangan mereka.

    Kios-kios penggoda kantong.
    Khas bendera warna-warni seperti pada kuil mereka.

    Sedikit kesulitan mencarinya karena sengaja menghindari menu restoran. Aku berjibaku mencari sebuah kedai untuk bersantap malam. Keluar masuk gang hingga akhirnya menemukannya, benar-benar jauh masuk ke dalam gang. Beruntung kedai kecil itu menyediakan momo.  Menyempurnakannya, aku memesan segelas kecil honey lemon tercampur potongan memanjang ginger yang membuatku terasa hangat.

    Momo khas Nepal.

    Kembali ke jalanan setelah hampir satu jam duduk di kedai itu. Menelusuri  jalanan yang berbeda, aku terhenti seketika di sebuah perempatan dan menoleh ke kanan. Sebuah kerumunan dengan musik menghentak-hentak di bilangan Chaksibari Marg. Setelah mendekatinya , ternyata sekelompok dancer sedang berlatih tarian Bollywood. Asik juga melihat secara langsung tarian itu secara langsung. Untuk tak ada pohon, bisa-bisa aku ikut menari mengelilinginya.

    Mereka berlatih untuk sebuah film.

    Semakin dingin, aku meninggalkan kerumunan  dan segera menuju ke hotel. Tapi yang namanya daerah wisata, para penggoda kembali menghentikan langkah. Kali ini seorang pemuda memanggil dan menawariku untuk menghabiskan malam dengan hangat di sebuah bar. “You can enjoy our band performance”, ungkapnya. Aku yang seumur hidup tak pernah memasuki bar kini mulai tergoda, “Oke lah, tak ada salahnya”, batinku.

    Alhasil, aku mulai menaiki tangga Sisha Bar & Restaurant. Benar adanya, sebuah band lokal beranggota 4 pemuda millennial dengan 1 vokalis perempuan sedang melantunkan pop lokal yang membuatku bersemangat untuk segera duduk dan menikmati pertunjukan itu. Hingga aku menghabiskan dua porsi besar hot lemon with honey saking khusu’nya.

    Malam yang indah dan tak terlupakan di Thamel

  • Black Taxi from Toba Lake to Pematang Siantar

    I entered Eloise’s room to pick up my backpack which I had entrusted since morning. I checked out in the morning and continued to exploring Samosir all day with her. I said good-bye to her and prepared to go to Pematang Siantar, while she was still overnight at Samosir.

    Bagus Bay Homestay staff directed me to wait for a ferry at the nearest port. Turn left after exiting the hotel, a few tens of meters later, I entered a alley at left side of road. Keep stepping until I reached a stall, right on port edge.

    “Tigaraja, Sir? Wait for half an hour, okay?“, Said a timer to me. Half an hour which was more than enough to ate a bowl of instant noodles with egg topping for USD 1.1 in stall corner.

    Ferry looked approaching and the timer was silently pointing my face, then his index finger was pointing toward the ferry. I understand what that means.

    Not even perfectly leaning yet, I jumped into the ferry. All passengers on the left deck shouted. “Watch out, Sir!” I waved like an artist. It turned out that my ability to maneuver with motorboats in Jatiluhur Dam when I became a fish farm salesman was still good.

    Zoe’s Paradise Hotel (white) and Dumasari Hotel (red) stared at me when leaving Samosir.
    Heading to Tigaraja port in 50 minutes.

    The man in a faded blue jeans was intently staring in the distance when I descended the ferry. There isn’t other way to avoid it. I looked like waiting for a thug who was ready to hit me.

    “Siantar, Sir. Forty thousand Rupiah (USD 3)?“, He said while shadowing my steps. “Oh, taxi service“, I said. Chasing INTRA Bus which would leave at seven o’clock in the evening, I said yes. And I was taken to Bagus Taxi’s office.

    Dying for a pee but didn’t getting a toilet, someone took a shower too long….Huftt.
    Driver and passenger were hostile through a wooden pawns fight.

    Looked like I was the last filler in taxi manifest. So fast, I’ve just sat on right side of middle row seat.

    Right on my left, an old man who liked smoking during journey.

    Black Avanza (one of Toyota type in Indonesia) swirled to measure street and picked up passengers one by one. pickup was ended with one incident when a woman missed her wallet in the fifth kilometer of our trip. It was annoying but can make me a little bit laugh. There wasn’t choice, the taxi turned back to get her wallet.

    Leaving Toba Lake, the taxi speed forced me to open my eyes. It invited me to snaking and enjoying beautiful natural scenery of Simalungun Regency. Oil palm plantations, fields, hills and valleys were passed one by one. Occasionally the driver created humors, one of it when he frantically installing a seat belt which he didn’t wear in unison with a passenger next to him, even failedly installing it, until we passed the police operation area….Luckily, he didn’t stopped by police.

    Within an hour and 20 minutes, taxi started to entering city edge, then headed to downtown via Gereja Street and Merdeka Street with two monuments as city landmarks.

    Adipura Monument. Siantar has won this environmental award for four times.
    Wahana Tata Nugraha Monument in President Soeharto era, an award for the excellent of transportation management.

    “Brother, once you get to Parluasan area, just go to the bus office, be careful“, said Erwin (my backpacker friend who accidentally met on KL HoHo Bus on 2013). Maybe he was worried about me when entering Parluasan area who was famous for its thugs. But I casually responded because I knew that I would be dropped right in front of the INTRA bus office.

    I arrived…..

    Let’s waited for brother Erwin to pick me up for getting around Pematang Siantar for a moment.t

  • Salah Bangku di Tourist Bus Pokhara-Kathmandu.

    Mr. Tirtha masih saja menemaniku berbincang, kami berdua berdiri bersandar di taksi mungilnya sembari mengamati kesibukan di sekitar Tourist Bus Park. Beberapa pedagang asongan silih berganti naik turun di seluruh bus berukuran tiga perempat menawarkan dagangannya.

    Sewaktu kemudian, Mr. Tirtha  merentangkan tangannya lebar dan kami berpeluk ringan sebagai pengganti ucapan “terimakasih dan sampai jumpa”. Aku sengaja memasuki bus setengah jam sebelum keberangkatan. Akan lebih baik karena Mr. Tirtha bisa dengan segera melanjutkan mencari nafkah dengan taksinya.

    Si kondektur menunjukkanku tempat dimana aku harus duduk. Baris kedua dibelakang sopir yang dibatasi sekat kaca. Kini pemandangan menjadi tegang, ketika sepasang suami istri India beradu mulut dengan si kondektur. Sejoli itu merasa dirugikan karena agen tiket di Kathmandu menjanjikan bangku paling depan buat mereka. Si kondektur dengan santainya balik menggertak, “This is Pokhara, Not Kathmandu”. Seketika suasana hening. Aku baru sadar, sejoli itu mengincar bangkuku….Hahaha, padahal jika disuruh tuker aku juga tak menolak. Ada-ada saja.

    Europeans di depan itu seru bermain kartu sepanjang perjalanan.

    Tiga setengah jam setelah keberangkatan pukul 7 pagi, bus berhenti untuk breakfast break selama 20 menit setelah sejam sebelumnya bus sudah sekali melakukan 15 menit toilet break. Sarapan yang diberikan Mr. Raj di pagi hari nampaknya cukup efektif bagiku untuk tak mengeluarkan budget konsumsi apapun kali ini. Yuk, kuperlihatkan bagaimana restoran tempatku berhenti:

    Makan prasmanan aja ya!
    Itu tarifnya.
    Kopyah yang dipakai kasir itu bernama Dhaka Topi.
    Ah masih kenyang….Ngopi aja lah.

    Aku baru merasa kelaparan pada lunch break pukul 13:30,  menikmati se-thali (piring lebar khas India) makanan yang kuambil dari meja prasmanan seharga  Rp. 52.000 dan sebuah free-orange juice yang diberikan pada semua penumpang sejak pemberangkatan di Pokhara.

    Lumayan free….  
    Aku naik yang warna putih.

    Jarum jam menunjuk pukul 15:34. Toilet break terakhir kali ini menjadi bagian paling berkesan.  Kumanfaatkan waktu dengan menelusuri area di sekitar tempat peristirahatan. Aku bergerak menuju tepian jalan dan menikmati panorama lembah dan jurang dibawahnya.

    Kebanyakan truk di Nepal adalah Tata Motor.

    Tergeletik dengan kehidupan di pinggiran jalan, aku memasuki sebuah gang kecil dan melihat sekelumit aktivitas warga lokal yang hidup di pinggiran jalan. Mengamati sebuah spanduk yang tertempel di sebuah sisi tembok beton, aku mencoba sedikit membuka kulit luar perpolitikan di Nepal.

    Nepal adalah negara berbentuk republik parlementer yang memiliki empat partai politik utama. Communist Party of Nepal (CPN) menjadi partai pemenang di Nepal yang menempatkan dua tokoh pentingnya yaitu Khadga Prasad Sharma Oli sebagai Perdana Menteri dan Bidhya Devi Bhandari sebagai  Presiden negara tersebut.

    Itu dia lambang CPN.

    Kembali berada di bangku bus, perjalanan kali ini mengalami kemacetan luar biasa ketika menuruni bukit terakhir menjelang perbatasan Kathmandu. Layaknya kemacetan di Cianjur saat weekend tiba.

    Bus merapat di Kanti Path pada pukul 17:08. Kelelahan yang teramat sangat membujukku untuk segera menemukan Shangrila Boutique Hotel di area Thamel. Aku menelusuri banyak gang-gang sempit dan menanyakan kepada penduduk lokal untuk menemukan lokasinya. Hanya berjalan selama 20 menit, akhirnya penginapan itu kutemukan.

    Kuserahkan Rp. 280.000 sebagai tarif menginap per malam. Kali ini aku akan bermalam 2 petang di Kathmandu untuk menikmati wisata kota.

  • Three Malay Dances at Merdeka Walk

    After tasting Waroenk Nenek’s pecel lele (fried catfish with chili sauce), the sky looked occasionally throwing lightning. As if announcing to earth inhabitants that soon it would drop rain which it couldn’t hold anymore.

    It seems I never heeded the announcement. The green button “Order GoRide” has already been touched and invited a online taxibike driver to appear in front of me in 4 minutes. Motorizing along 4.5 km, I got off at right in front of “Pos Indonesia” building. “Anno 1911” was precisely wrote above a old window with four columns and three rows shutters, had became a birth certificate of the building, it is meaning that the building is 109 years old now.

    The colorful gates of Merdeka Walk which are only 150 meters from my dropping point, I approached it by walk. This time, I passed next old building which had become “Bank Indonesia” office and next to it I found an elegant Old City Hall which was doused in yellow spotlights from its roof.

    Arrive at a big T-junction, right in front is my next destination and at the south side is “Bank Mandiri” Building.
    Old City Hall in north of Bank Mandiri.

    I slowly tread into Medan’s culinary center. Large trees became the first sight which catched my eye’s attention. How shady it would be if I arrived at noon, the assumption which I immediately imagined.

    Let’s come in!….Don’t just stare.

    Long rows of tables and chairs which were arranged lengthwise following restaurants direction which lined up parallel to Balai Kota Street greet me. I wasn’t counting but I heard that Merdeka Walk provided 700 seats for visitors.

    Hang out there seemed good.

    This place also provides menu variety from Asian food to European food. But yes, that’s how I am, you can certainly guess….I never once sat and tasted food in this place.

    Sitting there is fun also…Looks like again.

    Two Merdeka Walk restaurant sides will be centered in a field area called the Center Piece. That night, this area was transformed into a red carpeted stage which was functioned as a catwalk. Loud music delivered by backstage sound system was welcomed by swinging footsteps in one straight line. Child models were able to stylish like an adult and experienced models.

    At the Center Piece there was also a local TV shooting activity.

    Not long after, the sky really poured heavy rain. I couldn’t imagine, they who quickly sipped hot coffee or they who chewed their food which have just been served with a high tempo too….amused to see it. While me?…. Easy…. Just ran away and took shelter in an closed restaurant then waited for rain until finished.

    What’s behind of Merdeka Walk?

    The night began to move, in the soft drizzle I went down some stairs at back of Merdeka Walk to saw activities at Merdeka Square. It seemed that this field is an children choice area which allowed them to free run around or just drove around in cars which were glittering with colorful lights.

    Medan Hall.

    Then my steps came to a large hall where several families gathered while laying mats and enjoying dinner together with a dinner basket from home. A harmonious family.

    And when I intended to end my visit on Merdeka Walk, I hear a faint Malay music which was followed by someone’s voice which I guessed as MC. The sound was sourced from north. I rushed over

    It turned out to be a free performance of Malay dance.

    For a moment I enjoyed three Malay dances which were held right in front of the yellowish green “Tourist Service” building.

    Beautiful closing night in Medan because on next day I would go to Toba Lake….I couldn’t wait.

  • Himalayan Coffee dan Nepali Thali

    Sebelum benar-benar tuntas menuruni Bukit Anadu, aku terhenti pada sebuah kedai.  Kedai kelontong yang menjual beberapa snack, air mineral, juga minuman beralkohol ringan. Kedai mungil beraroma harum kopi  yang dihasilkan dari tungku roasting di sebelah kanannya.

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    Somersby berkadar 5%….Terkenal di Pokhara. Aku mah air putih aja….murahhhhh.

    “Himalayan coffee bean”, tutur si penjual ketika aku memperhatikan caranya me-roasting kopi. Buat beberapa orang, passion memang segalanya. Seperti pria ini, dia rela melepas kewarganegaraan Jepang dan memilih berganti menjadi Nepalese demi cintanya pada kopi Himalaya.

    “I take it”, aku menunjuk kemasan 250 gram untuk kuseduh di Jakarta.

    —-****—-

    “Mr. Tirtha, your country is unique. Some Nepalese faces are like Indians, sometimes I find them similar to Chinese”, ucapku ketika Mr. Tirtha mulai menginjak pedal gas taksinya menjauhi bukit.

    “Yess….Nepal is flanked by India in south and China in north. So some Nepalese have mixed marriages”, tutur beserta senyum ramahnya menjawab pertanyaan.

    Kami bergerak ke timur laut dengan memutari Phewa Lake untuk kembali ke hotel yang berjarak 6 km. Setiba di New Pokhara Lodge, aku mengucapkan terimakasih kepada Mr. Tirtha yang sejak jam 4 pagi menemaniku dalam eksplorasi Pokhara. Kuserahkan Rp. 600.000 sebagai biaya jasanya, itu artinya aku hanya perlu mengeluarkan budget transportasi sebesar Rp. 150.000 karena aku memborongnya bersama trio backpacker sehotel.

    Belum hilang juga nuansa perayaan tahun baru di Lakeside Road, aku kembali menjelajah pinggiran Phewa Lake setelah berbasuh dan meluruskan kaki. Kali ini, aku kelaparan dan harus makan besar. Masih ada janji pada diri pasca percakapan sepanjang hari dengan Mr. Tirtha. Ya….Aku akan mencicipi Nepali Thali.

    Jajanan kaki lima sepertinya tak akan mampu meredam kelaparanku, aku bergegas memasuki sebuah resto. Terduduklah diriku di bagian dalam untuk mendapatkan udara hangat, lalu disambut oleh pelayan perempun berparas manis. Tak perlu lama memilih. “Nepali Vegetarian Thali and orange juice”, pintaku setelah melihat menu yang kubaca. Makanan khas Nepal seharga Rp. 40.000 dan juice seharga Rp. 23.000 menjadi penutup hariku malam itu.

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    @Bellas Garden Restaurant.

    —-****—-

    Malam berganti pagi, aku menyeruput teh panas dan menghabiskan menu sarapan di pelataran hotel. Kemudian kembali ke kamar dan memanggul backpack biruku untuk bersiap pamit pada Mr. Raj. Kujabat tangan keriputnya dan kutepuk berulang kali lengan atasnya.

    Aku:  “Thank you Mr. Raj for your kindness and hope to see you again next time”.

    Mr. Raj: “Be careful, Donny. Thank you for stopping by in New Pokhara Lodge”.

    Aku tahu Mr. Raj masih memaksakan dirinya bekerja karena anak terakhirnya masih berkuliah di Kathmandu University. Karena perkerjaannya pula, dia masih terlihat bugar.

    Kali ini Mr. Tirtha datang untuk terakhir kalinya memberikan jasa taksi kepadaku. Kami berdua menuju Tourist Bus Park, mengantarkanku menuju Kathmandu.

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    Bisa ga sih bertampang parlente dikit….Hadeuh, Donny!

  • Revealing a Benefactor story at Tjong A Fie Mansion

    Sumatra Money Museum and Tjong A Fie’s House are only three blocks away and pass a large intersection which separates Pemuda Street where the museum is located and Jenderal Ahmad Yani Street where the house is located.

    Security: “Hey, brother. Why do you capture photos of this building?”, his left hand is on his waist, his right hand hold a T-stick.

    Me: “Oh, that’s sir….The building is nice, really classic“, bent down as a sorry.

    Security: “Oh yeah, that’s great … I didn’t realize it“. Saying while standing on my right side led to the same building.

    Me: “Sure, Sir….You who has worked here for a long time, just realized that” while holding a laugh in my chest.

    I thought he will take my camera and erased the picture in it…. Apparently no, hahaha.

    —-****—-

    That house gate is so small and I had a little bit passed it. I turned and slowly walked toward it.

    My bad habit: silence for a long time in the courtyard and even didn’t blink.

    Young staffs who on duty at ticket desk were watching me from terrace. They were glad to get a guest. Some time later, I realized that they were waiting me.

    Staff: “Sir, you can keep your backpack here. The house is spacious, you will be tired“.

    Me: “Thank you honey Ms, I put it here….Is it safe?”.

    Staff: “I’ll take care, Sir….You don’t need to worry”.

    Me: “Take care of my heart too….Thanks Ms”.

    OK….Let’s start to entering Tjong A Fie Mansion.

    A multicultural figure from Guangdong.

    Do you know about Tjong A Fie?….He is a Chinese descent resident who in his life became a rich trader and became an important figure in Medan because of his generosity in building Medan city in his era. He worked hand in hand with Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid Perkasa Alamsyah to develop city economy. At that time, Deli was famous worldwide with its high-quality tobacco, and even Deli was dubbed as Dollar Landsh (Dollar Land).

    The beauty of his 120-year-old house is truly eye-catching. Has four guest rooms with different concepts to receive guests from different communities.

    The yellow dominant living room is for receiving guests from Deli Sultanate as Malay community.
    Chinese descent guests are welcome here.
    This room is to receive guests from Dutch government.

    I was fortunate to meet two visitors from Aceh who used a tour guide services. Seeing me when visiting it alone, Mr. Syaiful smiled and waved to me and then invited me to join with them. “Come on, brother, come here!“, he lightly said. How lucky is my fate.

    Tjong A Fie was so rich, many of his home furnishings were imported from Europe such as safes, ceramic decorations or ovens in his kitchen.

    The dining table was ever used to entertain Deli Sultanate family in Chinese New Year celebration.

    Next exploration showed photos of the entire Tjong A Fie family, which consist from 21 family members. The photo was taken during his 60th birthday celebration in early 20th century.

    A bed made from classic carving woods with white mosquito nets.

    An orange kitchen wall with three wood-burning stoves next to a separate room with two flour stone-grinders and one rolling pin with similar material.

    A hall which contains a row of family history photos.

    In other side, I found a Tjong A Fie family tree, some photos of important buildings in the city which were built with his funds (such as Gang Bengkok Old Mosque, Sipirok Old Mosque and even Al Mashun Grand Mosque in downtown), as well as a photo of Kesawan Bank Commissioner which was founded by Tjong A Fie.

    A high windows with a dominant number make the house so spacious.

    Tour guide said that during President Soeharto era, the state acquired Tjong A Fie’s plantation and merged into state’s plantation ownership i.e PT. Perkebunan Nusantara (PTPN).

    End of my visitation in Tjong A Fie Mansion. His house gate is seen from 2nd floor.

    See the Tjong A Fie Mansion situation here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYmGn_g4FW4

  • Kuncir Kuda di Shanti Stupa

     “Prepare your leg to climb Anadu Hill !”, tutur Mr. Tirtha sambil mengepalkan tangan kanannya ke depan.

    Ya, aku tahu. Di bagian akhir kali ini, aku harus menaklukkan ratusan anak tangga untuk menikmati keindahan pagoda berusia 47 tahun, satu dari delapan puluh pagoda perdamaian yang tersebar di seluruh penjuru bumi.

    Menanjak ke barat laut, mesin taksi mungil itu menggerung hampir 20 menit untuk menuntaskan perjalanan sejauh 3,5 km. Tiba di area parkir, Mr. Tirtha menunjukkan darimana aku harus mulai menanjak.

    Perlu waktu lama untuk menaklukkan seluruh anak tangga. Terengah….Aku sejenak menyandari pagar tangga di tengah perjalanan. Pelan menenggak air mineral tersisa, aku beristirahat sejenak sembari menikmati wajah-wajah ayu gadis Nepal yang terus melintas. Para gadis Nepal berperawakan langsing yang gemar memiliki rambut hitam panjang teurai, berkulit cokelat dan berwajah khas Asia Selatan. Akan beruntung jika kamu menemukan yang bermata sipit….cantik otentik….Aduhai.

    Seperti kilat, aku tergagap ketika seorang gadis Nipon melewatiku dan melempar senyum sembari berucap singkat “Hi”. Otomatis bibirku menyungging senyum kepadanya sambil mengawasinya lekat. Aku masih terbengong ketika dia menanjak semakin jauh. “Siapa dan Kenapa?”, batinku terus bertanya.

    “Oh, astaga…..Itu si cantik berkuncir kuda bermarga Kawaguchi yang duduk di sisi kiriku dalam penerbangan Thai Airways TG 319”, ingatanku menyadarkan lamunan. Dia sudah menghilang di tikungan. Aku bertekad mencarinya di atas nanti.

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    Patung buatan 5 November 2001.

    Mulai memasuki  pelataran nan luas dan disambut oleh patung Mr. Meen Bahadur Gurung, Deputi Menteri Pertahanan Nepal yang telah berjasa dalam pengembangan stupa.

    Jalan setapak menuju stupa.

    World Peace Pagoda dikenal dengan nama lain Shanti Stupa. Shanti adalah bahasa Sansekerta yang berarti perdamaian. Jadi pada dasarnya ini adalah monumen perdamaian yang didirikan berwujud stupa. Stupa ini dibagun oleh sebuah ordo Buddhist dari Jepang bernama Nipponzan-Myohoji.

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    Berdiri di ketinggian 1.110 m dpl.
    Ruangan di belakang stupa.

    Pelataran depan begitu hening, hanya terdengar satu jenis dengung yang dibunyikan oleh seorang biksu dalam sebuah ruangan. Hening dan sakral. Sementara di sisi jauh tertampil tepian selatan dari Phewa Lake dan lekukan Himalaya yang luar biasa memikat.

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    Pokhara dari atas bukit.
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    Phewa Lake dan Himalaya….Aset Pokhara.

    Jantung terasa berhenti ketika helikopter berwarana merah mendadak menukik tajam jatuh ke danau. Baru kali ini melihat helikopter jatuh menghujam dengan tajamnya.

    Nafasku yang mendadak berhenti, akhirnya mampu menarik udara kembali dengan cepat ketika helikopter itu mampu mensejajarkan moncongnya dengan permukaan danau. Astaga….Itu hanya permainan adrenalin berbayar, pastas saja pengunjung di sekitarku mengacuhkannya….Ndeso kamu, Donny.

    Helikopter pembohong.

    Mataku menyusuri segenap arah mencari keberadaan Kawaguchi. Berdebar berharap menemukannya. 15 menit sudah…..Tak kunjung pula aku melihat batang hidungnya. Mungkin dia sudah keburu pulang, hilang sudah kesempatan untuk meminta maaf karena aku tak mengingatnya dengan baik….Sudahlah.

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    Senyum palsu dibalik kekecewaan.

    Sudah sore, saatnya pulang ke hotel.

    Lihat suasana Shanti Stupa di sini: https://youtu.be/wSOfTsqJjX8