Kusempatkan memejamkan mata sejenak begitu menyelesaikan proses check-in di Hotel Sri Indrayani. Semalam yang tak nyenyak di bangku tengah Bus INTRA, bersambung dengan empat jam berjalan kaki demi mengeksplorasi daerah Senapelan telah membuat otot betisku kelelahan dan mataku terasa berat.
Smartphone yang masih mengisi ulang daya itu pun berteriak membangunkanku, tepat satu jam sebelum Shalat Ashar. Waktu shalat memang menjadi pilihan sebagai penanda mula untuk kelanjutan petualanganku di Pekanbaru. Itu karena aku memilih untuk mengunjungi sebuah masjid termegah di seantero Provinsi Riau atau boleh dikatakan sebagai salah satu yang termegah di tanah air.
Tak mengulur lagi keterlambatan bersantap siang, aku menyusuri daerah Pecinan di sepanjang Jalan Dr. Leimena yang tak jauh dari gerbang hotel, hingga menemukan sebuah kedai yang memaparkan harum rempah dan terlihat sangat ramai pengunjung. Seluruh bangku di lantai bawah ruko itu hampir penuh dan tanpa pikir panjang aku segera menduduki satu bangku diantaranya.
Mie dengan tauge bercampur potongan lontong, udang, telur dan diwangikan dengan taburan bawang goreng…beuhhh, nikmat
Menenggak pelan asam manis es jeruk dingin menjadikan tubuh mendingin sejenak di panasnya kota. Dan tepat di tegukan terakhir, ojek online itu datang menjemputku.
Menuju ke tenggara sejauh tiga kilometer dan tiba di gerbangnya tepat dua puluh menit sebelum waktu Ashar tiba. Begitu banyak polisi di halaman masjid yang tampak tengah mengamankan sebuah agenda penting siang itu. Setiap kendaraan yang masuk area masjid tak luput dari pemeriksaan ketat.
“Mau kemana, Bang”, tegur polisi muda bersenjata laras panjang di gerbang masuk. “Shalat Ashar, pak”, password yang begitu ampuh untuk melewati pemeriksaan itu.
Mirip Taj Mahal, bukan?
Kubah bak gasing terbalik dan pohon-pohon kurma itu….Hmmmhh.
Aku belum juga memasuki ruangan masjid. Sibuk di pelataran menikmati keindahan arsitektur yang tersaji di depan mata. Masjid dominan hijau berusia setengah abad dengan luas area yang kuperkirakan lebih dari sepuluh hektar…..Sungguh, luas sekali.
Lihat saja bagaimana lapangnya salah satu sisi parking lot.
Mughal masih saja menjadi corak arsitektur yang mendominasi, lengkungan-lengkungan khasnya mirip lengkungan pada persemayaman terakhir Mumtaz Mahal di Agra. Sedangkan nuansa sekeliling masjid sedikit mengadopsi atmosfer Masjidil Haram di Mekkah dan Masjid Nabawi di Madinah.
Corak Melayu disematkan oleh warna hijau pada bangunan utama, warna merah pada ornamen di menara dan kuning emas pada ormanen interior beserta seni kaligrafinya. Lalu adat Melayu digambarkan pada lantai dua tingkat dengan beranda dibawah. Mengadopsi konsep rumah panggung Melayu.
Rukun Islam dilambangkan pada lima kubah dan kepemimpian Khilafah sahabat Nabi direpresentasikan pada empat menara.
Kini aku bersiap untuk beribadah Ashar, menyucikan diri di lantai bawah dan menaiki tangga demi tangga menuju ruang peribadatan utama di lantai kedua. Atmosfer di dalam yang begitu khusyu’, membuatku merasa bersyukur karena masih diberikan kesempatan untuk mengunjungi rumah Tuhan yang megah ini.
Enam pilar raksasa berdasar hijau dan berlapis putih di bagian atas.
Kulamakan waktu dudukku di bagian belakang untuk menikmati ikon wisata religi Provinsi Riau yang konon bisa menampung hampir lima ribu jama’ah.
Lengkung kubah dari dalam.
Karya arsitektur kenamaan di Pekanbaru ini tak lepas dari tangan dingin Kaharuddin Nasution, Gubernur kedua Provinsi Riau yang memindahkan Ibukota Provinsi dari Tanjung Pinang di Pulau Bintan ke Pekanbaru pada tahun 1960-an. Perpindahan itu tentu membawa konsekuensi baginya untuk memfasilitasi kegiatan keagamaan mayoritas masyarakat yang notabene memeluk agama Islam. Oleh karena itulah Sang Gubernur merasa penting untuk menghadirkan Masjid Agung An-Nur ini.
I took a moment to close my eyes after I finished check-in process at Sri Indrayani Hotel. An uneasy night on a middle bench of INTRA Bus, continued for four hours on foot to explore Senapelan area had made my calf muscles exhausted and my eyes felt heavy.
My smartphone which was still charging, shouted to wake me up, exactly one hour before Asr Prayer. Prayer times was indeed an option as a starting marker for continuation of my journey in Pekanbaru. That was because I chose to visit the grandest mosque in the whole of Riau Province or it could be said as one of the grandest in the country.
No longer postpone for late lunch, I went through Chinatown along Dr. Leimena Street which isn’t far from my hotel gate, until I found a small restaurant which exposed fragrant spices and looked very crowded. Its entire seat in downstairs was almost full and without long thinking, I immediately occupied one seat in between.
Noodles with bean sprouts mixed with lontong (Indonesian compressed rice), shrimps, eggs and fragrant with a sprinkling of fried onions….Hmmh, delicious.
Slowly drinking a sweet-sour of cold-orange juice made my body felt cool for a moment in the middle of city heat. And right at a last sip, an online motorcycle taxi came to pick me up.
Heading southeast for three kilometers and arrive at the gate exactly twenty minutes before Asr Prayer arrived. So many police officers in mosque courtyard, it seemed to be securing an important agenda that afternoon. Every vehicle which entered mosque area didn’t escape from strict inspection.
“Where are you going, Sir?” a young policeman which armed with long barrel gun said at entrance gate. “Asr prayer, Sir“, a password was so effective for passing the inspection.
It’s like the Taj Mahal, right?
Domes like an upside down “spinning top” and that palm trees….Hmmmhh, nice.
I hadn’t entered yet the mosque room. Busy in courtyard to enjoy the beauty of architecture which was presented in front of my eyes. A greeny dominant mosque which is a half of century old with large area which I estimate to be more than ten hectares….Really, very vast.
Just look at how spacious a parking lot side is?
The Mughals are still be dominant architectural style in it, its distinctive arches resembling arches of Mumtaz Mahal’s tomb in Agra. While nuances around the mosque was slightly adopted Al-Masjidil Al-Haram atmosphere in Mecca and Al-Masjid An-Nabawi in Medina.
The Malay style is embedded to green color of main building, red color on tower ornaments and yellow gold color on interior ornament and calligraphy. Then the Malay custom is depicted on two levels of floor with veranda below. It adopts a concept of Malay’s houses on stilts.
Five pillars of Islam are symbolized by five domes and leadership of Prophet’s Caliph is represented on four towers.
Now I was preparing to Asr Prayer, purified myself on lower floor and then climbed stair by stair leading to main worship room on second floor. The atmosphere inside was so solemn, it made me feel grateful because I was still given an opportunity to visit this magnificent God house.
Six giant pillars with green color in base layer and white on top layer.
I made my sitting time so long in the back to enjoy this iconic religious tourism of Riau Province which is said able to accommodate almost five thousand worshipers.
Dome arch from inside.
This famous architectural creation in Pekanbaru can’t be separated from Kaharuddin Nasution cold hands, the second Riau Province Governor who moved Provincial Capital from Tanjung Pinang on Bintan Island to Pekanbaru in the 1960s. Certainly, this displacement had consequences for him to facilitate religious activities of residents majority who in fact embraced Islam. That is why the Governor felt it was important to present An-Nur Great Mosque.
Taj Mahal is may be an famous heritage on earth. But actually behind its fame, there is an architectural creation which the world has agreed that It is a Taj Mahal’s blueprint. This prototype is in Itimad ud Daulah.
Very grateful, I had an opportunity to visit it on that afternoon. Like a surprise when reading a novel. This time, The Preliminary Chapter began with a suddenly appearing of donkey rows carrying red bricks which was accompanied by the owner’s song. Amazed to see donkeys which were saying “excuse me” in front of me. This is my first time in seeing this animal about a meter in front. The owner just smiled to me when he saw me gaping without blinking eyes while pressing record button of my mobile phone.
Donkeys and its owner.
Spending USD 2.8, I entered into “Baby Taj” yard. (“Baby Taj” is a favorite call for Itimad ud Daulah).
Get the ticket at front gate.
If Taj Mahal belongs to Mumtaz Mahal, then Itimad ud Daulah belongs to Mirza Ghiyas Beg who is none other than Mumtaz Mahal’s grandfather . Taj Mahal was built by Mumtaz Mahal’s husband, then Itimad ud Daulah was built by Nur Jahan who was Ghiyas Beg’s son.
A door before entering the tomb.
Here it is the grave of Mirza Ghiyas Beg and his wife.
Tracking it part by part, my mind confirmed that Itimad ud Daulah was a mini form of Taj Mahal. Not exactly same but its architecture, interior and exterior design are close to similar. Still the same, It is relying on white marble as main display.
Itimad ud Daulah interior.It’s good, is not….
The weather began to warm, making me comfortably sat while enjoying the beauty of this mausoleum. This time, my gaze was slightly interrupted by the arrival of a beautiful tourist with long blond hair. It wasn’t her face which teased me, but my admiration for her effort to came to Itimad ud Daulah in her condition with crutches and casts that indicated there was a severe injury in her right leg. She struggled to sit on the ground while directing her DSLR to and fro. Occasionally interspersed by reading Lonely Planet which was issued from her small backpack. Unfortunately, I didn’t dare to say hello. Her beauty makes me stunned….Damn, I was a coward backpacker.
Closing Chapter of Itimad ud Daulah’s exploration began with stepping to a gate on right side. I was really fascinated by the vast expanse of a river which began to dry up. I certainly knew that it is Yamuna river which is considered by Indian Hindus to be Goddess Yamuna, the Goddess who is believed to be able to free them from death torments when purifying themself with its water.
The gate is directly adjacent to Yamuna river.
Yamuna river.
So….Yamuna River was my exploration closing session in Itimad ud Daulah. Curious in waiting for various surprises for the beauty of Agra architecture in other locations which I will visit until late afternoon.
Stepping out, I began to open my map and stirred my intention to visit Mehtab Bagh, a charming park which was the best point to enjoy the beauty of Taj Mahal.
My passionate spirit of visiting Taj Mahal which wasn’t higher than my trifling guts of conquering cold of every drop of water which coming out from GoStops Agra’ shower, had embarrassed myself on a saturday morning.
Needle is exactly on number 7, a taxi which we rented for full-day through sharing costs arrived and the driver was waiting in hostel’s lobby while tightly holding his hands as a sign that he had been hit by a stabbing cold weather in streets.
Do you want to know our white taxi rent fare?….Sure….USD 17.8 divided by four people. So, I had to give USD 4.4 as my transportation budget that day.
Brushing my teeth without bathing, I approached and talked while waiting for 3 other tourists to come down. “No need long time to reach Taj Mahal, brother“, he said first while shaking his head in Indian style to open a conversation that morning. “Nice“, I said while busy fixing my winter jacket and syall which coiled around my neck.
Ten minutes later, his exhaust fumes began to acquiring thick fog along Agra-Bah Road. Sure enough as he said, 15 minutes later he asked us to come down and point to a bajaj with fare about for USD 2.9 to continuing our journey to Taj Majal Eastern Gate. No problem with price because we finally rode that bajaj with all of us….Oh No, we were unpolite tourist….Hahaha.
At 7:30 a.m, tourists queued to hunt for tickets with fare for about USD 7.2.
A ticket in my hand.
What a fool!….Blindly curiosity had closed my logic that morning. Never clearly thought since leaving my hostel that thick fog storm in Agra would perfectly close Taj Mahal courtyard….Ah, I annoyance stood with a long sigh at Taj Mahal entrance. Not able to see anything 10 meters ahead. Only a thick fog which made me slowly freeze.
There was no choice, like it or not, I had to start exploring Taj Mahal with a definite guarantee that I would never fully enjoy its beauty.
I started slowly up the stairs and entering first gate of that famous site. The first gate is named Jilau Khana.
The area around Jilau Khana or often called Forecourt.
What happened was really out of reason. I haven’t finished yet in enjoying Jilau Khana’s red bricks, my automatic footsteps were unstoppable in approaching main building. Taj Mahal like a magnet for anyone who visits it.
Connecting road between Jilau Khana and main gate
Before arriving at main building….About 100 meters later, I reached the grand Main Gate.
Its name is Darwaza-i-rauza or often called Great Gate.
Tourists complaints began to hear while blaming the mist. “I can’t take a picture“, He complained to his fellow friends. Wry smile, I didn’t care about same disappointment.
Look at carvings inside the Darwaza-i-rauza!
Then, where is Taj Mahal main building which is always hunted by world travelers?
Yup….350 meters at north of Darwaza-i-rauza is Taj Mahal location, the tomb of two legendary “lovebirds“. Shah Jahan as the king and Mumtaz Mahal as the “Persian descent” empress who have a extraordinary beauty.
Not long, I immediately put a shoe cover then I got ready to entering Taj Mahal
Shoe cover will be given when buying a ticket.
Like the commonly mosque, Taj Mahal is equipped with four minarets on each side. The greatness of Mughal kingdom is reflected in every inch of Taj Mahal which composed from white marble which was specially imported from Rajashtan and sapphires which was sent from Sri Lanka.
Minaret as high as 40 meters with a cylindrical wall.
Another intriguing thing when visiting Taj Mahal was when each visitor regularly walked to follow a path which had been made by officers to enjoy each side of Taj Mahal main room where Mumtaz Mahal tomb is located. Three heavily armed police closely watched every visitor. Sometimes they gave order to some tourists to immediately move because taking photos for a long time could make a path to be stuck.
Taj Mahal wall.
Taj Mahal window.
Beautiful art of calligraphy in Taj Mahal.
Not bad….Than not at all.
Such is the fact, the 372-year-old Taj Mahal is indeed charming. No wonder, 4 million tourists are interested in visiting it every year.
After enjoying Taj Mahal, then I immediately retreated and returned to eastern gate for approaching taxi which was waiting for me.
I went back east….Which way did you choose to go back?
A fog storm in northern India has robbed more than six hours of my time. But my aggravation was defeated by my own vulnerability against India’s cold air .
Fog calamity in India
Jhelum Express pulled up at Agra on 8:30 pm. Do you want to hear my story in using their economic train….Just wait….HORRIBLE !!!.
There was nothing I could do that night. Temperature almost touched zero degree Celsius, even air quickly cooled fried noodles I bought at street food stall. Even Indian spices which are stinging, I still couldn’t feel because a frozen began to hit my tongue.
I was like a coward hiding under the blanket of GoStops Hostel while waiting for the electricity to fill all my “electronic friends”.
Hotel staff: “You must be grateful to be an Indonesian. You can easily go everywhere. Not like me, getting a passport is very difficult. Our government protect their citizen from getting difficult life at out of our country. I had waited for two years to get a passport, I hope I will get this year. I want go around the world like you”
Me: “Don’t worry, you will get it, my friend. You will go to my country also sometimes. One thing that should made you proud with India. Your currency is more stronger than my currency…..Aaannnnddddd, Your country have great histories and cultures in the world.”
It was a bit of a serious conversation before I entered room, and a slightly intellectual conversation after previously I only talked to Jhelum Express’ passengers who sitting in front of me and also to taxi driver who transferred me from Agra Cantt Station to hotel.
—-****—-
OKAY….A morning has came
Automatically, I only had 10 valuable hours to explore Agra starting on 7:00 in the morning. This time I wouldn’t justify myself to use public transportation….Too tight….Luckily, I did sharing costs with fellow backpacker roommates for a taxi services which was willing to be chartered until afternoon. Because in the afternoon, I would go to New Delhi. I just needed to spend USD 4.4 for my entire transportation fee.
1.Taj Mahal
Didn’t daring to touch water to wash myself, I rushed into a taxi which was ready in front of hostel. That morning….Fog was so thick which even the morning sun was unable to uncover it.
Yes, finally….I headed for dream destination of tourists all over the world….Taj Mahal
Taxi moved north along Agra-Bah Road. Not far away, only 3.5 km which is traveled in 15 minutes. Taxi stopped at edge of road, I was only remember a sign “Malik Tour & Travel” as a marker.
Bajaj service for USD 2.9 became a next connector toward Taj Mahal West Gate Ticket Office. I spend USD 7.25 to get a entry ticket.
Every inchies in Taj Mahal always carried an impression, a only thing which really disturbed all tourists was fog which made them feel annoyed because they couldn’t capture themselves with this historical building.
Taj Mahal was captured from Mehtab Bagh.
This mainstay of Uttar Pradesh State Tourism is truly impressive. A tomb which is dedicated to Mumtaz Mahal (wife of emperor Shah Jahan) is able to attract 8 million tourists from all over the world each year. One of UNESCO World Heritage Sites which you must visit if you enter Mahabharata land.
2.Itimad ud Daulah Tomb
Two hours of absorbing and enjoying the beauty of Taj Mahal which is almost entirely wrapped in white marble had carved a doctrine in my brain that the world is really beautiful.
Let’s go back to hostel to took a bath and ate a simple free-breakfast which was served by hostel. I immediately packed my backpack for check-out and put it in taxi luggage. After enjoying Agra Fort later, I would immediately go to New Delhi.
Located at 4.5 km north of Taj Mahal, this site offers tranquility and comfort. Unlike with Taj Mahal which is noisy with visitors. Similar but don’t as big as Taj Mahal which make it known as the “Baby Taj“.
A building which inspires architectural style of Taj Mahal.
If Taj Mahal is dedicated to Mumtaz Mahal, the construction of Itimad ud Daulah is dedicated to Mumtaz Mahal’s grandfather named Mirza Ghiyas Beg.
I don’t want to tell much….Visit it, yes!…Yuhuuuuu !!!!
3.Yamuna River
An hour moved quickly. My intention to immediately rushed to next destination ran aground. I was stunned by appearance of a dry river which stretched so broadly, as if showing off its beauty to all who were seeing, crossing or even living in it.
Located at west of Itimad ud Daulah.…Nice.
Guys….That’s Yamuna River….All my life, It was first time to saw a river which very wide like it.
Considered by Hindus as the Goddess Yamuna.
The river which is originating from Yamunotri glacier at Uttarakhand State looked receding and exposed to various forms of waste such as plastic and liquid waste which are easily guessed from its smell. .
4.Mehtab Bagh
Next two kilometers to south….
Licking, sipping and gently swallowing French fries with curry-flavored salt became my next unimportant activity….Set aside for about USD 0.7 to try some street culinary in India! I guarantee that you will be impressed.
Guys, I was already on a side of wide and romantic park….Mehtab Bagh is its name.
“Mehtab Bagh” itself has a meaning which is similar to a meaning of pair of words in English i.e “Moonlight Garden“…Yes, how romantic is it?
It was said that….Shah Jahan would build a Black Taj Mahal in this park. But it was never achieved..
It is often been King’s stopover to enjoy beauty of Taj Mahal which is located at opposite it and is only separated by Yamuna River.
The price of admission ticket for USD 2.9 is nothing compared to the beauty of park which you can safely enjoy. Safe?….Yes, park was guarded by two fully armed soldiers who always walk around park.
5.Agra Fort
Masala Tea = 90 Rupee….This is USD 1.2
Egg Fried Rice = 150 Rupee….This is USD 2.1
That was my lunch menu at “The Master Chef” Restaurant at Fatehabad Road before heading to my last destination in Agra….#sad.
Located 2.5 km northwest of Taj Mahal, Agra Fort is also a World Heritage Site which is very prominent in its red color.
The walled city of Agra Fort….Amazing.
You have to pay USD 7.2 to directly imagine how is the Mughal emperor living in Agra Fort.
Walking around as much as you can in Agra Fort before parting with Agra city. I traced one by one of part in this fort.
Entering Diwan-i-Am like Mughal people who are complaining, or entering Diwan-i-Khas like an important royal guest who is being entertained by the king.
Feel the luxury of Jahangiri Mahal, which is a special palace for king’s wife then sat down to relax in Anguri Bagh which was used by women member of kingdom as a royal garden.
And as a Muslim, I also feel obliged to visit Moti Mosque in Agra Fort as a worship place for all kingdom members.
—-****—-
A short time that introduced me to an ancient city in northern India. City whose its architecture influences many building creations around the world.
Make sure that you visit it longer than me because historical values of this city are so high and can’t be enjoyed in an instant time.
Gebu semangat menyongsong Taj Mahal yang tak lebih tinggi dari nyali remeh temeh dalam menaklukkan dinginnya setiap tetes air yang keluar dari shower goStops Agra telah mempermalukan diriku sendiri di sebuah Sabtu pagi.
Jarum di angka 7 persis, taxi yang kami sewa harian melalui sharing cost tiba dan si pengemudi telah menunggu di lobby hostel sembari mendekapkan erat kedua tangannya sebagai pertanda bahwa dia telah diterpa kedinginan yang menusuk di luar sana.
Mau tahu harga sewa taxi putihnya?….Boleh….Rp. 240.000 yang dibagi empat orang. So, Rp. 60.000 harus kurelakan untuk naik diatas rodanya.
Bersikat gigi tanpa mandi, aku menghampiri dan mengajaknya bercakap sembari menunggu 3 turis lain turun. “No need long time to reach Taj Mahal, brother”, tutur pertamanya sembari menggeleng-geleng kepala ala India menjadi pembuka percakapan pagi itu. “Nice”, timpalku sembari sibuk membenahi winter jacket dan shall yang melingkar di leher.
Sepuluh menit selanjutnya, asap knalpotnya mulai mengakuisisi kabut tebal di sepanjang Agra-Bah Road. Benar saja katanya, 15 menit kemudian dia meminta kami turun dan menunjuk sebuah bajaj seharga Rp. 40.000 untuk melanjutkan perjalanan menuju Taj Majal Eastern Gate. Tak menjadi masalah dengan harga karena bajaj itu akhirnya kami tunggangi berempat….Dasar turis tak beradab….Hahaha.
Jam 07:30, para turis telah mengantri berburu tiket seharga Rp. 98.000
Tiketku digenggaman
Bodoh sangat!…..Rasa ingin tahu yang membabi buta telah menutup logikaku pagi itu. Tak pernah berfikir jernih sedari berangkat meninggalkan hostel bahwa badai kabut tebal kota Agra akan menutup pelataran Taj Mahal secara sempurna….Ah, aku berdiri lama menghela nafas panjang kesal di gerbang masuk Taj Mahal. Tak mampu melihat apapun 10 meter didepan. Hanya kabut tebal yang membuatku perlahan membeku.
Tak ada pilihan, suka tak suka, aku harus mulai menjelajah Taj Mahal dengan jaminan pasti bahwa aku tak akan pernah menikmati kemolekannya secara sempurna.
Aku mulai menaiki tangga perlahan memasuki gerbang pertama situs termasyhur itu. Gerbang pertama ini bernama Jilau Khana.
Area sekitar Jilau Khana atau sering disebut forecourt. Bahasa Jawanya “halaman depan”.
Yang terjadi sungguh di luar nalar. Belum juga selesai menikmati merah batanya Jilau Khana, langkah kaki otomatisku tak terbendung mendekat ke bangunan utama. Taj Mahal bak magnet bagi siapa saja yang berkunjung.
Jalan penghubung antara Jilau Khana dan gerbang utama
Sebelum tiba di bangunan utama….Sekitar 100 meter kemudian, aku mencapai gerbang utama nan agung.
Namanya Darwaza-i-rauza atau sering disebut Great Gate
Mulai terdengar keluhan para bule itu sembari menyalahkan sang kabut.”I can’t take a picture!”, keluhnya kepada sesama temannya. Kecut tersenyum dengan sunggingan sebelah bibir, aku tak memperdulikan kekecewaan yang sama.
Lihatlah ukiran di bagian dalam Darwaza-i-rauza itu!
Lalu dimana bangunan utama Taj Mahal yang selalu diburu para traveler dunia?
Yup….350 meter di utara Darwaza-i-rauza adalah letak Taj Mahal, makam dua sejoli yang melegenda. Shah Jahan sang raja dan Mumtaz Mahal sang permaisuri keturunan Persia yang konon cantik luar biasa.
Tak berlama waktu, aku segera memasang penutup sepatu untuk kemudian bersiap memasuki Taj Mahal
shoe cover akan diberikan saat membeli tiket.
Layaknya masjid, Taj Mahal dilengkapi dengan empat minaret di setiap sisinya. Kebesaran kerajaan Mughal tercermin dari setiap jengkal Taj Mahal yang tersusun dari marmer putih yang didatangkan khusus dari Rajashtan dan batu safir yang dikirim dari Sri Lanka.
Minaret setinggi 40 meter dengan dinding silinder.
Hal menggelitik lain ketika mengunjungi Taj Mahal adalah dikala setiap pengunjung berjalan teratur mengikuti alur yang sudah dibuat petugas untuk menikmati setiap sisi ruang utama Taj Mahal dimana makam Mumtaz Mahal berada. Tiga polisi bersenjata lengkap mengawasi setiap pengunjung dengan cermat. Terkadang mereka berseloroh ke beberapa turis untuk segera melangkah karena keasyikan mengambil photo dan membuat alur jalan menjadi macet.
Dinding Taj Mahal
Jendela Taj Mahal
Indahnya seni kaligrafi Taj Mahal
Lumayan lah….Daripada tidak sama sekali
Begitulah adanya, Taj Mahal yang berusia 372 tahun ini memang mempesona. Tak khayal, 4 juta wisatawan tertarik mengunjunginya setiap tahun.
Selesai menikmati Taj Mahal, maka aku segeran undur diri dan kembali ke eastern gate menuju taxi yang menungguku.
Aku kembali ke timur….Kamu mau kembali lewat mana?
Badai kabut di utara India telah merampas waktuku lebih dari 6 jam. Tetapi kejengkelan telak terkalahkan dengan keripuhanku sendiri melawan super dinginnya udara Negeri Nehru itu.
Petaka kabut di India
Jhelum Express menepi di Agra pada 20:30. Pengen denger ceritaku menjajal kereta ekonomi mereka….nanti saja lah….MENGERIKAN !!!.
Tak ada yang bisa kuperbuat malam itu. Suhu yang hampir menyentuh nol derajat Celcius, bahkan udara dengan cepat mendinginkan sajian mie goreng pinggir jalan yang kubeli. Bumbu India yang terkenal menyengat itu bahkan tak mampu kurasakan karena beku mulai menghantam lidah.
Aku bak seorang pengecut yang bersembunyi di balik selimut GoStops Hostel sambil menunggu aliran listrik memenuhi segenap “teman elektronikku”.
Staff Hotel: “You must be grateful to be an Indonesian. You can easily go everywhere. Not like me, getting a passport is very difficult. Our government protect their citizen from getting difficult life at out of our country. I had waited for two years to get a passport, I hope I will get this year. I want go around the world like you”
Aku: “Don’t worry, you will get it, my friend. You will go to my country also sometimes. One thing that should made you proud with India. Your currency is more stronger than my currency…..Aaannnnddddd, Your country have great histories and cultures in the world.”
Itu sedikit percakapan serius sebelum aku memasuki kamar, dan percakapan yang sedikit intelektual setelah sebelumnya aku hanya berbicara dengan penumpang kereta yang duduk di depanku dan sopir taxi yang mentransferku dari Stasiun Agra Cantt ke hotel.
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OKAY….Kukuruyukkkkk….#perasaanganemuayam.
Automatically, Aku hanya memiliki 10 jam berharga untuk mengeksplorasi Agra dimulai dari jam 7 pagi. Kali ini aku tak akan membenarkan diriku untuk menggunakan transportasi umum….Terlalu mepet….Beruntungnya, aku melakukan sharing cost bersama teman-teman backpacker sekamar untuk jasa taxi yang bersedia di carter hingga sore hari. Karena sore hari, aku akan menuju New Delhi. Aku hanya perlu mengeluarkan Rp. 60.000 untuk biaya transportasiku seharian.
1.Taj Mahal
Tak berani menyentuh air untuk membasuh badan, aku tergopoh memasuki taxi yang sudah siap di depan hostel. Pagi itu….Kabut sangat tebal bahkan matahari pagi tak mampu menyibaknya.
Yes, akhirnya….Aku menuju destinasi idaman turis seluruh dunia….Taj Mahal
Taxi bergerak ke utara menyusuri Agra-Bah Road. Tak jauh, hanya 3.5 km yang tertempuh dalam 15 menit. Taxi berhenti di tepi jalanan, aku hanya ingat dengan papan nama “Malik Tour & Travel” sebagai penanda.
Jasa bajaj seharga Rp. 40.000 menjadi penghubung berikutnya menuju Taj Mahal West Gate Ticket Office. Kulepas Rp. 98.000 untuk mendapatkan tiket masuknya.
Setiap jengkal di Taj Mahal selalu menggoreskan kesan, satu-satunya benda yang sangat mengganggu para wisatawan adalah kabut yang membuat mereka seakan kesal tak bisa mengabadikan dirinya bersama bangunan sangat bersejarah itu.
Taj Mahal tertangkap dari Mehtab Bagh.
Wisata andalan Negara Bagian Uttar Pradesh itu memang sungguh mengesankan. Makam yang didedikasikan untuk Mumtaz Mahal (istri dari kaisar Shah Jahan) sanggup menarik 8 juta wisatawan dari seluruh dunia setiap tahunnya. Salah satu Situs Warisan Dunia UNESCO yang harus kamu kunjungi jika memasuki tanah Mahabharata itu.
2.Itimad ud Daulah Tomb
Dua jam meresapi dan menikmati keindahan Taj Mahal yang hampir keseluruhannya berbalut marmer putih mematri doktrin di otakku bahwa dunia itu sungguh indah.
Yuk, balik ke hostel untuk berbasuh dan menyantap sajian free-breakfast sederhana yang disajikan hostel. Aku sendiri langsung berkemas check-out dan menaruh backpack di bagasi taxi. Selepas menengok Agra Fort nanti, aku akan langsung bertolak ke New Delhi.
Berada 4.5 km di utara Taj Mahal, situs ini menawarkan ketenangan dan kenyamanan. Tak seperti Taj Mahal yang bising pengunjung. Mirip tapi tak sebesar Taj Mahal menjadikannya dikenal sebagai “Bayi Taj”.
Adalah bangunan yang mengilhami gaya arsitektur Taj Mahal.
Jika Taj Mahal didedikasikan untuk Mumtaz Mahal, maka pembangunan Itimad ud Daulah didedikasikan untuk kakek dari Mumtaz Mahal yang bernama Mirza Ghiyas Beg.
Aku ndak mau bercerita banyak….Datang sendiri aja ya….Yuhuuuuu !!!!
3.Yamuna River
Satu jam bergulir dengan cepatnya. Niatanku untuk segera bergegas menuju destinasi berikutnya kandas. Aku tertegun dengan penampakan sungai kering nan menghampar begitu luas, seakan memamerkan kegagahan kepada semua yang makhluk melihat, melintasi atau bahkan hidup daripadanya.
Terletak di sebelah barat Itimad ud Daulah……Beuh,
Man….Itu Sungai Yamuna….Seumur-umur, aku baru melihat sungai seluas itu.
Didaulat umat Hindu sebagai Dewi Yamuna.
Sungai yang bersumber dari gletser Yamunotri di Negara Bagian Uttarakhand ini terlihat surut dan terpapar berbagai bentuk limbah seperti plastik dan limbah cair yang mudah diterka dari baunya.
4.Mehtab Bagh
Dua kilometer berikutnya di selatan…..
Menjilat, menyesap dan menelan pelan french fries jalanan berbumbu garam beraroma kari menjadi aktivitas tak pentingku berikutnya….Sisihkan beberapa Rp. 10.000-an untuk mencoba beberapa kuliner ringan jalanan di India !. Kujamin kamu akan terkesan.
Gaes, aku sudah di sisi sebuah taman nan lebar dan romantis….Mehtab Bagh namanya.
“Mehtab Bagh” sendiri memiliki makna yang tak jauh dari sepasang kata dalam Bahasa Inggris “Moonlight Garden”….tuh, gimana ga romantis coba?.
Konon…. Shah Jahan akan membangun Black Taj Mahal di taman ini. Tapi tak pernah kesampaian.
Sering menjadi persinggahan sang Raja untuk menikmati keindahan Taj Mahal yang berada di seberangnya dan hanya terpisahkan oleh Sungai Yamuna.
Harga tiket masuk sebesar Rp. 40.000 tidaklah seberapa dibandingkan dengan keindahan taman yang bisa kamu nikmati dengan aman. Aman?….Ya taman ini dijaga dua tentara bersenjata lengkap yang selalu berkeliling taman.
5.Agra Fort
Masala Tea = 90 Rupee ….ini mah Rp. 17.000
Egg Fried Rice = 150 Rupee….yah sekitar Rp. 29.000.
Itulah menu makan siangku di “The Master Chef” Restaurant di bilangan Fatehabad Road sebelum menuju destinasi terakhirku di Agra….#sedih.
Terletak 2.5 km di barat laut Taj Mahal, Agra Fort juga menjadi Situs Warisan Dunia yang sangat menonjol dengan warna merahnya.
Kota berdinding ala Agra Fort….Menakjubkan.
Kamu harus membayar Rp. 98.000 untuk membayangkan secara langsung para kaisar Mughal tinggal di Agra Fort ini.
Berkeliling sepuasnya di dalam Agra Fort sebelum berpisah dengan kota Agra. Aku menelusuri satu demi satu bagian didalam banteng kota ini.
Memasuki Diwan-i-Am bak rakyat Mughal yang sedang berkeluh kesah, atau memasuki Diwan-i-Khas bak tamu penting kerajaan yang sedang dijamu sang raja.
Merasakan kemewahan Jahangiri Mahal yang merupakan istana khusus untuk istri raja, lalu terduduk merelaksasi diri di Anguri Bagh yang pada masanya digunakan oleh para wanita anggota kerajaan sebagai taman kerajaan.
Dan sebagai seorang muslim, aku juga merasa wajib menapaki Moti Masjid didalam Agra Fort sebagai tempat peribadatan segenap anggota kerajaan.
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Waktu singkat yang mengenalkanku pada kota kuno di utara India. Kota yang arsitekturnya mempengaruhi banyak kreasi bangunan di seluruh dunia.
Pastikan kamu mengunjunginya lebih lama dariku karena nilai sejarah kota ini begitu tinggi dan tak bisa dinikmati dalam sekejap saja.
