Chinese Fishing Nets: Fort Kochi’s version of Anco

<—-Previous Story

The long wait to be present on the coast of Fort Kochi had paid off. In one jump down the orange KURTC Bus, I stood in the city built on mangroves. For a moment I stood motionless looking around, quickly adapting to the boisterous travelers at that famous destination in the State of Kerala.

Starting from a corner of KB Jacob Road, I was aligned with the Kochi Corporation Zonal Office, a government office tasked with managing the city of Fort Kochi, which had a population of seven hundred thousand people.

It was still Thursday….I didn’t know why?…. In the middle of the day, the two-story government office with cream-colored walls had its front gate tightly closed. It managed to make me look away and stared straight at the stretch of KB Jacob Road which was perpendicular to the shoreline.

That afternoon I wouldn’t follow a structured agenda. Without an itinerary, I would let my feet go as to enjoy the charm of Fort Kochi.

Just stepped out….It didn’t feel like a beach area, that was because the streets of Fort Kochi presented a shady situation with old tree decorations shading all along. Even paving blocks were chosen as the base for the streets, which were arranged very neatly.

Coupled with the crowds of local and foreign tourists, it made me feel less lonely even though I was far from home. After all, many European tourists seemed to be walking alone as solo travelers like me.

Just setting foot a few steps on the streets of Fort Kochi, my heart was amazed because I was transported to the past when I saw models of local buses chasing passengers along the side of the road. The buses seemed to have come from the past….Old, but they make the atmosphere of the city more classic.

Kochi Corporation Zonal Office at the confluence of River Road and KB Jacob Road.
River Road atmosphere.

Toward the first destination, I decided to pull over to the beach. From the tourist photos of Fort Kochi that I often find on search engine pages, Chinese fishing nets were always the ones that appear most often on that page. Then, I wanted to find its whereabouts, if I was lucky I would look closely at the activities of the Indian fishermen in the vicinity.

The shoreline wasn’t longer far, only thirty meters parallel to the River Road that I was currently crossing. I immediately got out of the flow of the street and decided to move closer to it. Within a few steps I arrived at the edge of the beach and as far as the eye could see the blue expanse of Malabar Beach was quite pleasing to the eye.

The beautiful scenery was added to the routine of the fishermen along the coast. A group of fishermen seemed to be relaxing enjoying coffee in a food stall, another group seemed to be just taking shelter from the hot sun and several others were seen busy anchoring their boats and unloading their load from the sea to then transfer the load to cold barrels.

Another sight on the shore was the activity of several small groups of fishermen catching fish using Chinese fishing nets…Fishermen in Indonesia (my country) called it “anco” or “tangkul”. Because it was installed on the shoreline, the catch from the operation of that fishing gear was mostly small fish.

Let’s talk with the Indian fishermen!
Well, the fish were coming….Let’s see how big the fish were.
They started to unloading.
India’s version of Tangkul or Anco.

Fresh and large fish from the sea were immediately transported using pick-up vehicles to be taken out of the beach area. Meanwhile, several medium and small-sized fish were immediately sold at fish stalls along the coast.

Mingling with the local community had indeed become a favorite activity. Sometimes even a little smile that was thrown on their faces made me feel like I was still close to home. That was what made me feel at home sitting with them for a long time and reluctant to move from the beach.

Fort Kochi indeed depicts a high economic movement, in any place, tourists could be seen thronging.

In the waters, tourist boats went back and forth along the coast carrying various multi-national tourists. Of course, the tourist ships offered sea cruise services along the coast to enjoy the exotic Fort Kochi.

Meanwhile, on the mainland, there weren’t a few tourist buses parked along the streets of Fort Kochi. As if Fort Kochi had been sovereign as a tourist city in the State of Kerala.

Tourist Boat….Boat tour around the west coast of Kerala, maybe as far as Vembanad Lake?
Chartered tourist buses in south India.

Even so, for one hour I put myself on the beach and was satisfied to enjoy the activities of the local fishermen.

I have to leave soon….

Let’s follow in my footsteps again….The next place wasn’t far from the beach.

Next Story—->

Chinese Fishing Nets: Anco ala Fort Kochi

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Penantian panjang untuk hadir di pesisir Fort Kochi lunas sudah. Dalam satu lompatan menuruni KURTC Bus warna oranye membuatku benar-benar berdiri di kota yang dibangun di atas hutan bakau itu. Sejenak aku berdiri mematung menilik sekitar, beradaptasi cepat dengan riuhnya pelancong di destinasi tersohor di Negara Bagian Kerala itu.

Mulai beranjak dari sebuah sudut KB Jacob Road, kini aku menyejajari Kochi Corporation Zonal Office, sebuah kantor pemerintah yang bertugas mengelola Kota Fort Kochi yang berkepadatan tujuh ratus ribu jiwa.

Hari itu masih Kamis….Entah kenapa?….Saat tengah hari, kantor pemerintah dua lantai berdinding warna krem itu gerbang depannya tertutup rapat. Berhasil membuatku berpaling muka dan kembali menatap lurus bentangan KB Jacob Road yang tegak lurus dengan garis pantai.

Siang itu aku tak akan merunut sebuah agenda terstruktur. Tanpa itinerary, akan kubiarkan kakiku melangkah sesukanya menikmati pesona Fort Kochi.

Baru saja melangkah….Bak tak serasa di kawasan pantai, itu karena jalanan Fort Kochi menyajikan suasana rindang dengan hiasan pokok-pokok tua yang menaungi sepanjangnya. Bahkan pavling block dipilih sebagai alas jalanan yang tersusun dengan sangat rapi.

Ditambah dengan keramaian para pelancong lokal dan mancanegara membuatku merasa tak begitu kesepian walau berada jauh dari rumah. Toh banyak bule yang tampak berjalan sendirian layaknya solo traveler sepertiku.

Baru menginjakkan kaki beberapa langkah di jalanan Fort Kochi, hatiku terkagum karena aku seperti dibawa ke masa lampau disaat menyaksikan model bus-bus lokal yang mengetem berburu penumpang di sepanjang sisi jalan. Bus-bus itu seakan didatangkan dari masa lalu….Jadoel, tapi justru membuat suasanan kota menjadi lebih klasik.

Kochi Corporation Zonal Office di pertemuan River Road dan KB Jacob Road.
Suasana River Road.

Menuju destinasi pertama, aku memutuskan menepi ke bibir pantai. Dari foto-foto wisata Fort Kochi yang sering kutemukan di laman mesin pencari, chinese fishing nets selalu menjadi yang tersering muncul di laman itu. Kini, aku ingin mencari keberadaannya, jika beruntung aku akan melihat dari dekat aktifitas para nelayan India di sekitarnya.

Bibir pantai tak lagi jauh, hanya tiga puluh meter saja menyejajari River Road yang sedang kulintasi. Aku segera keluar dari arus jalanan dan memutuskan segera merapat ke sana. Dalam sekian langkah aku tiba di tepian pantai dan sejauh mata memandang hamparan biru Pantai Malabar cukup memanjakan mata.

Pemandangan cantik itu dibubuhi dengan rutinitas para nelayan di sepanjang pantai. Sekelompok nelayan tampak bersantai menikmati kopi di sebuah kedai, sekelompok yang lain tampak sekedar berteduh dan berlindung dari panasnya surya serta beberapa yang lain tampak sibuk mendaratkan perahu dan membongkar muatan hasil melautnya untuk kemudian muatan itu dipindahkan ke tong pendingin.

Pemandangan lain di tepian pantai adalah kesibukan beberapa kelompok kecil nelayan yang menangkap ikan menggunakan chinese fishing nets…Nelayan kita menyebut alat ini sebagai anco atau tangkul. Karena diinstalasi di bibir pantai, maka hasil tangkapan dari pengoperasian alat tangkap itu kebanyakan berupa ikan berukuran kecil.

Berbincang-bincang bersama nelayan India itu yukks!
Nah, ikannya datang….Mari kita lihat sebesar apa ikannya?.
Mereka sedang bongkaran juga.
Wujud Tangkul atau Anco ala India.

Ikan-ikan segar dan besar hasil melaut tampak langsung diangkut menggunakan kendaraan-kendaraan pick up untuk dibawa keluar dari area pantai. Sedangkan beberapa ikan berukuran sedang dan kecil tampak langsung di jual di lapak-lapak ikan di sepanjang pantai.

Berbaur dengan masyarakat lokal memang menjadi sebuah aktivitas favorit. Bahkan terkadang sedikit senyuman yang terlempar dari wajah mereka membuatku seakan tetap dekat dengan rumah. Hal itulah yang menjadikanku betah duduk berlama-lama bersama mereka dan enggan beranjak dari bibir pantai.

Fort Kochi memang menggambarkan geliat ekonomi yang tinggi, di sembarang tempat tampak berjubal pelancong.

Di perairan, kapal-kapal wisata hilir mudik di sepanjang pantai membawa beragam turis multi-bangsa.  Kapal-kapal wisata itu tentunya menawarkan jasa sea cruise di sepanjang pantai untuk menikmati keeksotikan Fort Kochi.

Sedangkan di daratan, tak sedikit pula bus pariwisata yang terparkir di sepanjang jalanan Fort Kochi. Seakan Fort Kochi telah terdaulat sebagai kota wisata di Negara Bagian Kerala.

Tourist Boat….Tur dengan perahu berkeliling pantai barat Kerala, mungkin sampai Vembanad Lake jugakah?.
Bus pariwisata charteran di selatan India.

Genap sudah, satu jam aku menaruh diri di bibir pantai dan puas menikmati aktivitas para nelayan lokal.

Aku harus segera beranjak….

Yuk ikutin langkah kakiku lagi….Tempat selanjutnya ga jauh kok dari pantai.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->