Romantisme Gatokaca dan Pregiwa di Taman Sriwedari

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Gerbang Taman Sriwedari.

Karena Loji Gandrung pernah digunakan oleh Kolonel Gatot Subroto sebagai pusat komado dalam menghadapi Operatie Kraai yang dilancarkan Belanda pada Desember 1948. Itulah sebuah alasan yang nantinya akan kuketahui kenapa patung yang dipilih untuk ditempatkan di depan Loji Gandrung adalah patung Jenderal Gatoto Subroto.

Kini kita akan bicara topik lain….

Dahulu….

Sebelum Stadion Manahan dibangun oleh Keluarga Cendana melalui Yayasan Ibu Tien Soeharto pada tahun 1998. Kota Solo memiliki stadion sepakbola yang kecil tapi legendaris. Stadion yang telah melahirkan klub sepakbola profesional yang pernah mencatatkan sejarah dalam persepakbolaan Indonesia, yaitu Arseto Solo FC. Stadion itu sendiri bernama Stadion Sriwedari. Penamaan ini sendiri tentu terkait dengan letaknya yang berada di area Sriwedari.

Malam itu, tentu aku tidak berniat mengunjungi Stadion Sriwedari selepas berkunjung ke Loji Gandrung untuk mencari informasi. Hanya perlu kamu ketahui bahwa di sisi timur stadion legendaris itu terdapat taman budaya yang terkenal dengan pementasan Seni Wayang Orang. Taman budaya ini terkenal dengan sebutan Taman Sriwedari.

Lima belas menit lewat dari pukul sembilan malam, keluar dari gerbang Loji Gandrung, aku melanjutkan perjalanan survey menuju timur sejauh setengah kilometer. Menyusuri sisi selatan Jalan Slamet Riyadi, aku melangkah dalam keramaian malam. Hingga aku tiba pada sebuah name board bertajuk “I Love Solo” yang terletak di sebuah taman kecil di bawah sebuah pohon besar, tepat ditengah trotoar lebar. Inilah penanda bahwa langkahku telah sampai di tujuan.

Tempat hangout di depan Taman Sriwedari.
Patung Gatotkaca dan Pregiwa.

Aku disambut sebuah gapura megah dengan topeng “Buto” di atasnya disusul dengan sambutan patung Gatotkaca dan Pregiwa dengan warna emas di bagian halaman. Dari situ saja, aura budaya tanah jawa tercium sangat kuat. Sementara sebuah pendopo besar menggenapi salah satu sisi taman.

Dari informasi yang kubaca pada sebuah kalender event di salah satu titik. Tepat dua bulan sebelum kunjunganku, tempat ini telah menghelat sebuah pagelaran tahunan dalam usaha peletarian Seni Wayang Orang yaitu Festiwal Wayang Bocah ke-7. Rupanya Kota Solo sangat gencar dalam melestarikan budaya. Memiliki event budaya dari usia dini hingga menyediakan tempat budaya seperti Taman Sriwedari ini adalah bukti nyatanya.

Di bagian belakang-timur pendopo berdiri Gedung Kesenian Solo. Sementara di sisi kanannya tampak beberapa papan proyek rapi mengelilingi THR (Taman Hiburan Rakyat) Sriwedari. Aku mendapatan informasi bahwa taman ini telah ditutup dan akan digantikan keberadaannya dengan Masjid Taman Sriwedari. THR Sriwedari sendiri adalah salah satu legenda taman hiburan di pusat Kota Solo pada masa lalu. Dahulu kawasan ini dikenal dengan sebutan Bon Rojo (kebon rojo/kebun raja) pada era Paku Buwono X.

Sementara di sebelah belakang-barat pendopo terletaklah Gedung Wayang Orang Sriwedari. Gedung inilah yang berperan penting dalam pelestarian Kesenian Wayang Orang yang telah berfungsi hampir satu abad lamanya.

Taman Sriwedari menjadi satu tempat yang layak dikunjungi apabila saat pelaksanaan Marketing Conference nanti terdapat event budaya. Akan tetapi jika tidak ada, maka kemungkinan menjadi sangat kecil untuk mengunjunginya.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Terlelap di Amaris Hotel Sriwedari

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Aku masih berada empat kilometer dari batas barat Kota Solo. Udara tak sepanas tengah hari tadi, kini waktu sudah menunjukkan pukul 14:15 dan aku baru saja selesai mengeksplorasi Museum Pabrik Gula De’ Tjolomadoe. Seporsi rawon dan es susu coklat yang kusantap di dalam museum setidaknya membuatku lebih tenang dan jernih memikirkan tahapan survey berikutnya.

Tapi sudah enam jam sejak aku meninggalkan pelataran Grand Amira Hotel by Azana di daerah Pasar Kliwon tadi pagi. Aku memutuskan untuk segera mengurus proses check-in di Amaris Hotel Sriwedari. Itu berarti, aku harus menuju ke tengah Kota Solo kembali.  Aku memutuskan untuk menempuhnya dengan taksi online.

Tak lama aku memesannya. Hingga taksi online yang kunaiki pun mulai merangsek menuju pusat kota. Setelah menempuh jarak sejauh dua belas kilometer, akhirnya aku tiba di depan Amaris Hotel Sriwedari dalam waktu tiga puluh menit.

Rahadian di meja resepsionis.
Lobby.
Pemandangan dari kamar hotel.

Rahadian segera mengurus proses check-in di meja resepsionis dan aku memilih menikmati segelas orange juce  sebagai fasilitas welcome drink hotel bintang dua itu. Kami segera memasuki kamar dan memutuskan untuk mendinginkan tubuh di bawah siraman shower.

Aku kembali membuka itinerary yang sudah kususun di Jakarta. Aku menghela nafas panjang, karena masih banyak agenda tersisa untuk dijalani.  Tapi sebelum menuju ke tempat berikutnya, aku memutuskan meluangkan waktu sejenak untuk mencatat hal-hal penting yang telah kudapatkan sedari pagi. Aku mulai mencatat hal-hal penting perihal Es Dawet Telasih, Pasar Gede Hardjonagoro, Kereta Wisata Jaladara, Taman Balekambang, Swiss-Belinn Saripetojo dan De’ Tjolomadoe. Catatan itu akan menjadi sebuah laporan survey yang dibutuhkan Seksi Acara Marketing Conference untuk menentukan bentuk konferensi secara lebih mendetail.

Berbagi tugas dengan Rahadian dalam menyusun laporan tersebut, membuat kami lebih cepat dalam menyelesaikannya.  Genap satu jam untuk membuat ulasan detail tentang enam destinasi itu dan laporan itu sempurna terselesaikan setelah kukirimkan via email kepada Bapak Dedi Damhudi yang menjadi Ketua Seksi Acara yang tentu masih berada di Jakarta.

Restoran hotel.
Sarapan di keesokan hari.
Hari ketiga di Solo.

Merasa kelelahan semenjak dua puluh dua jam dari waktu kedatanganku di Kota Solo, aku tertidur di samping laptop yang masih menyala. Sepertinya Rahadian membiarkanku yang pulas tertidur hingga beberapa saat kemudian dia mulai membangunkanku.

Pak Donny….Bangun!. Ayo kita survey lagi. Masih banyak tempat yang harus kita kunjungi!”, ucapnya ringan sembari tersenyum ringan.

Aku sudah berapa lama tertidur, Rahadian?“, sergahku gelagapan.

Satu jam, pak”.

Astaga, sudah sore. Ayo kita berangkat!”, aku melompat dari tempat tidur.

Hampir pukul lima….Aku memutuskan berkemas untuk menuju ke destinasi berikutnya. Aku akan menuju ke timur sejauh dua blok. Destinasi ini berada di daerah Keprabon dan hanya berjarak satu kilometer dari hotel tempatku menginap.  

Mari kutunjukkan tempat itu!.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Survey Solo Bermula dari Grand Amira Hotel by Azana

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Hampir tengah malam….

Percakapan berbumbu secangkir latte tambahan dengan Pak Arman di lobby Solo Paragon Hotel & Residences masih saja hangat. Sedangkan Rihsan, anak keduanya yang berumur delapan tahun sudah terlelap di salah satu sisi sofa. Aku yakin jika tak menyudahi, pasti kongkow ini akan berakhir saat fajar. Maka akulah yang bertanggung jawab menutup percakapan ini.

Baiklah Pak Arman, sudah saatnya saya undur diri dan beristirahat di hotel”, kuucapkan sesopan mungkin setelah meneguk sisa latteku.

Oh, udah hampir tengah malam ya?. Oh iya, Pak Donny menginap dimana?”.

Di Grand Amira Hotel, Pak Arman”.

Oh, baiklah. Hati-hati pak di jalan. Sampai jumpa lagi kapan-kapan”.

Jalanan sudah sepi. Untuk mengurangi resiko keamanan, kuputuskan untuk memesan taksi online saja. Tak lama aku dijemputnya. Lalu, taksi melaju melalui Jalan Honggowongso menuju ke daerah Pasar Kliwon. Dalam perjalanan, aku mencoba melacak keberadaan Rahadian dalam perjalanannya dari Bandung menuju Solo. Tapi panggilanku tak berjawab, pesanku tak berbalas,mungkin dia pulas di kereta.

Solo aman ngga pak, kalau malam-malam gini naik ojek motor?” tanyaku kepada sopir untuk membuka pembicaraan.

Aman, Insyaallah mas. Disini ojek online jalan 24 jam. Ga usah khawatir”.

Wah berarti besok malam saya bisa begadang di kota nih pak….Hahahaha

Kulineran malam saja mas Donny. Solo jagonya kuliner. Di sini kuliner ada waktunya masing-masing. Ada kuliner pagi, ada juga yang buka siang, nah malam begini juga ada yang mulai buka mas”, jelasnya singkat.

Wah unik ya Solo. Pedagang kuliner seperti punya slot waktu jualan masing-masing. Kaya kesepakatan saja….hahaha” aku mulai mengagumi keunikan kota ini.

Sang sopir taksi memang tak pernah tahu bahwa tujuanku ke Solo ini untuk melakukan survey kuliner terbaik yang akan dijadikan destinasi pada acara Marketing Conference perusahaanku. Besok pagi aku akan mulai mecicipi setiap hidangan kuliner ternama Kota Batik bersama Rahadian.

Dalam 15 menit, aku tiba di pelataran Grand Amira Hotel by Azana. Hotel modern minimalis yang telah dipesan oleh kantorku. Bagiku hotel seharga 335.000 per malam ini menjadi hotel mewah karena aku terbiasa memanfaatkan dormitory ketika melakukan backpacking. Langkahku di lobby disambut dengan senyum manis resepsionis yang tampak bergegas berdiri ketika melihat kedatanganku.

Datangnya malam sekali, Bapak Donny”, sapanya singkat.

Oh iya mbak. Saya harus ketemu teman lama dahulu di daerah Mangkubumen. Keasyikan ngobrol mbak”, sambil kuserahkan booking confirmation letter dan KTP kepadanya.

Oh begitu, tapi Bapak ga perlu khawatir, resepsionis kita melayani 24 jam, Bapak”. Senyumnya terlihat aduhai sembari memberikan kunci kamar dan kwitansi bayar.

Setelahnya aku bergegas menaiki kamar dengan lift di sebelah kanan belakang meja resepsionis.

—-****—-

Tok…Tok….Tok”, bunyi itu sepertinya sudah berlangsung dari beberapa menit yang lalu.

Astagaaaa……

Aku tertidur pulas dan kesiangan.

Tok…Tok…Tok, Pak Donny buka, Pak. Ini Rahadian”, suara itu lirih terdengar dari luar.

Pasti sejak pagi gelap tadi, Rahadian sudah tiba di hotel. Dugaanku, dia pasti menuggu lama di lobby. Kulihat di gawai pintarku banyak sekali panggilan tak terjawab darinya. Pesan whatsapp pun tak terbaca. 

Kubuka pintu itu dan muka Rahadian tampak bercanda seolah menggerutu. “Gimana sih pak, kalau guwe  kagak naik ke kamar, pasti lo bangunnya tengah hari nih. Parah Pak Donny”.

Sorry, Rahadian. Semalam aku ketemu teman lama di Solo Paragon. Jadi kemalaman pulang….Hahaha. Sana kamu mandi duluan, kita segera sarapan dan melakukan survey”, selorohku sambil mengucek-ucek mata dan melompat kembali ke tempat tidur.

Pagi ini aku akan check-out dan berpindah ke Amaris Hotel di daerah Sriwedari. Aku dan Rahadian sengaja membawa backpack kecil dan ringan, sehingga setelah check-out kami bisa leluasa bergerak tanpa harus menaruh sesuatu di Amaris Hotel terlebih dahulu.

Mau ikut survey kulinerku? ….hahaha.

Yukksss….

Kisah Selanjutnya—>

Gatokaca and Pregiwa Romanticism in Sriwedari Park

<—-Previous Story

Sriwedari Park gate.

Because Loji Gandrung was once used by Colonel Gatot Subroto as the commado centre in facing Operatie Kraai which was launched by Dutch in December 1948. That was a reason which I would find later why a statue chosen to be placed in front of Loji Gandrung was General Gatoto Subroto Statue.

Now we would talk about other topic….

In the past….

Before Manahan Stadium was built by Cendana Family*1 through Ibu Tien Soeharto Foundation in 1998. Solo City had a small but legendary football stadium. The stadium which had given birth to a professional football club that had made history in Indonesian football, namely Arseto Solo FC. The stadium itself was called Sriwedari Stadium. This naming itself was of course related to its location in Sriwedari area.

That night, of course, I had no intention of visiting Sriwedari Stadium after visiting Loji Gandrung to seek information. But you just needed to know that on east side of this legendary stadium, there was a cultural park which was famous in Wayang Orang Art*2 performance. This cultural park was known as Sriwedari Park.

Fifteen minutes past nine o’clock in evening, exiting Loji Gandrung gate, I continued my survey trip to east for half a kilometer. Along south side of Slamet Riyadi Street, I stepped into night crowd. Until I arrived at a name board entitled “I Love Solo” which was located in a small park under a large tree, right in the middle of a wide sidewalk. This was a sign that my step had reached in the destination.

Hangout place in front of Sriwedari Park.
Gatotkaca and Pregiwa statue.

I was greeted by a magnificent gate with a “Buto*3” mask on it then followed by a welcome greeting by a golden statues of Gatotkaca and Pregiwa*4 in courtyard. From there alone, Javanese cultural aura smelled very strongly. Meanwhile, a large pavilion filled one side of  park.

From the information which I read on an event calendar at one point. Exactly two months before my visitation, this place has held an annual performance in Wayang Orang Art preservation effort, i.e 7th Wayang Bocah Festival. It seemed that Solo was very active in preserving culture. Having cultural events from an early age to providing cultural venues such as Sriwedari Park was a real proof.

At back-east of pavilion stands Gedung Kesenian Solo. While on the right side, there were several neat project boards which surround THR (Taman Hiburan Rakyat) Sriwedari. I received information that this park had been closed and would be replaced by Taman Sriwedari Mosque. THR Sriwedari itself was one of legends of an amusement park at Solo city centre on the past. Previously, this area was known as Bon Rojo (Kebon Rojo/King’s Garden) in Paku Buwono X era.

Meanwhile, to back-west of pavilion was Gedung Wayang Orang Sriwedari. This building had played an important role in Wayang Orang Art  preservation which had been functioning for nearly a century.

Sriwedari Park was a place which worth visiting if there was a cultural event during Marketing Conference. However, if there was no, there was very little chance of visiting it.

Note:

Cendana Family*1 is Second President of Republic of Indonesia’s family.

Wayang Orang Art*2  is a type of classical Javanese dance theatrical performance with themes taken from episodes of the Ramayana or Mahabharata.

Buto*3 is another term for evil giant

Gatotkaca and Pregiwa*4. Gatotkacais a character in Mahabharata epic, he is a son of Bima. Pregiwa is Gatotkaca’s wife.

Next Story—->

Fall asleep at Amaris Hotel Sriwedari

<—-Previous Story

I was still four kilometers from western boundary of Solo City. The air wasn’t as hot as midday earlier, now it was 14:15 hours and I had just finished exploring De’ Tjolomadoe Sugar Factory Museum. A portion of rawon and chocolate ice milk which I ate in the museum at least made me calmer and clearer thinking about the next stage of survey.

But it was been six hours since I left the courtyard of Grand Amira Hotel by Azana in Pasar Kliwon area this morning. I decided to immediately do an check-in process at Amaris Hotel Sriwedari. That means, I have to head to the middle of Solo City again. I decided to take an online taxi.

Soon I ordered it. Until the online taxi which I was riding began to rush towards downtown. After rode twelve kilometers, I finally arrived in front of Amaris Hotel Sriwedari in thirty minutes.

Rahadian at reception desk.
Lobby.
View from guest room.

Rahadian immediately handled of check-in process at reception desk and I chose to enjoy a glass of orange juce as a welcome drink facility at this two-star hotel. We immediately entered the room and I decided to cool off myself under the shower.

I re-opened the itinerary which I had compiled in Jakarta. I took a deep breath, because there were still many agendas left to do. But before heading to the next place, I decided to take a moment to write down all important things which I have been getting since morning. I started to type all important things about Dawet Telasih Ice, Gede Hardjonagoro Traditional Market, Jaladara Tourist Train, Balekambang Park, Swiss-Belinn Saripetojo and De ‘Tjolomadoe. That notes would be a survey report which was needed by Marketing Conference Event Section to determine conference form in more detail.

Sharing the task with Rahadian in compiling the report, made it faster for us to complete it. It took one hour to make a detailed review of six destinations and the report was completed after I sent it via email to Mr. Dedi who is the Chair of Event Section who was of course still in Jakarta.

Hotel restaurant.
Breakfast on next day.
Third Day in Solo City.

Feeling exhausted after twenty-two hours from the time of my arrival in Solo, I fell asleep beside my laptop which was still on. Looked like that Rahadian let me soundly sleep until a few moments later he started to wake me up.

Mr. Donny….Wake up !. Let’s take another survey. We still have many places to visit! ”, He lightly said with a light smile.

How long have I been asleep, Rahadian?”, I nervously said.

One hour, Sir”.

Oh Gosh, it’s late. Let’s go! ”, I jumped out of bed.

Almost five o’clock….I decided to pack up to go to next destination. I would head east for two blocks. This destination is in Keprabon area and only one kilometer from the hotel where I stayed.

Let me show you that place !.

Next Story—->

Solo Survey Started from Grand Amira Hotel by Azana

<—-Previous Story

Almost midnight….

The conversation spiced with an additional cup of latte with Mr. Arman in the lobby of Solo Paragon Hotel & Residences was still warm. Meanwhile, Rihsan, his second eight-year-old son, fell asleep on one side of sofa. I was sure that if it wasn’t ended, this conversation would end at dawn. Then I was the one who was responsible for closing this conversation.

Alright Mr. Arman, it’s time for me to excuse myself and rest at hotel“, I said as polite as possible after sipping the rest of my latte.

Oh, it’s almost midnight huh ?. Oh yes, where is Mr. Donny staying?”.

At Grand Amira Hotel, Sir Arman”.

Oh okay. Be careful on your way. See you again next time”.

The streets are deserted. To reduce safety risks, I decided to order a taxi online instead. Soon, I picked up by him. Then, the taxi drove through Honggowongso Street to Pasar Kliwon area. On my way, I tried to track down Rahadian on his way from Bandung to Solo. But my calls weren’t answered, my messages were unrequited, maybe he was sleeping on train.

Is Solo safe or not, sir if i ride a motorbike taxi at night?” I asked to driver to open the conversation.

Safe, Sir. In Solo, online motorcycle taxi runs for 24 hours. Don’t worry”.

Wow that means, tomorrow night I can stay up late in the city, Sir….Hahahaha“.

Culinary night, Sir Donny. Solo is a culinary centre. Culinary here has its own time. There are morning culinary delights, some are open at noon, now at night some are starting to open, Sir“, he briefly explained.

Wow, it’s unique. Culinary traders seem to have their respective sales time slots. Just like a deal….hahaha”, I began to admire the uniqueness of this city.

The taxi driver never knew that my goal to Solo was to do a culinary survey and found several culinary spots which would become a destination at my company’s Marketing Conference event. Tomorrow morning I would start in tasting every famous culinary dish of Batik City with Rahadian.

In 15 minutes, I arrived at the courtyard of Grand Amira Hotel by Azana. Modern minimalist hotel which was booked by my office. For me, Hotel with its cost about Rp. 335,000 per night had become a luxury hotel because I often used dormitories when doing backpacking. My steps in the lobby was greeted by a sweet smile from receptionist who seemed to hurry to standing when he saw my arrival.

Reception desk.
Hotel’s lobby.
My room.
My room.
My room.

“You come very night, Mr. Donny”, he briefly said.

Oh yes, Miss. I had to meet my old friend in Mangkubumen area. It had been fun conversation with him, Miss”, while I handed to her the booking confirmation letter and my ID card.

I see, but you don’t need to worry, our receptionist serves 24 hours, Sir“. Her smile looked sweety while giving a room key and payment receipt to me.

After that I rushed up to room with a lift to right behind of reception desk.

—-****—-

Knock….Knock….Knock“, the sound seemed to have been going on from a few minutes ago.

Oh my God……

I was fast asleep and late to woke up.

Knock….Knock….Knock. Mr. Donny open, Sir!. This is Rahadian”, the voice softly sounded from outside.

It must have been since dark morning, Rahadian had arrived at hotel. I guess that he have waited for a long time in lobby. I saw on my smartphone a lot of missed calls from him. Some Whatsapp messages were unread.

I opened the door and Rahadian’s face was joking as if he was grumbling. “How is it, Sir. If I don’t go up to this room, you will definitely wake up in the middle of day. It’s bad, Mr. Donny”.

“Sorry, Rahadian. Last night, I met an old friend at Solo Paragon. So I was late to go to this hotel….Hahaha. You can shower first, we’ll have breakfast and do a survey”, I joked while rubbing my eyes and jumping back into bed.

Hotel’s restaurant.
Time to breakfast.
He is Rahadian.

This morning I would check out and move to Amaris Hotel in Sriwedari area. Rahadian and I deliberately brought a small and light backpack, so that after checking out, we could freely move without having to put anything at Amaris Hotel first.

Did you want to follow my culinary survey?.

Came on!….

Next Story—->