Pasar Tamu Kianggeh

Traveling to Kampung Ayer, Bandar Seri Begawan.

2 September 2019travelingpersecond

My curiosity was paid off precisely when my first step down the bus in one of Bandar Seri Begawan Bus Terminal platforms. Unexpectedly, my journey around Southeast Asia took me to Hassanal Bolkiah’s land.

Unique….Terminal is on ground floor of Bumiputera Multi Storey Complex and Carpark.

A step later, I was already in “Afmal Restaurant” near bus terminal to enjoy a portion of “bakso” (Indonesian name of meatballs). Needed something fresh in my mouth to relieve tangling after an overnight stay without bathing in Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2 (KLIA2). Freshness of “bakso” which I ordered became more meaningful when there was a little conversation with restaurant owner who come from Purworejo, Central Java, Indonesia….It means that He is from similar province with me in Indonesia.

After being full, I rushed to get out of terminal area through “Bebatik” alley to main road (the road name is Mc Arthur Street). Right on other side of Mc Arthur Street, you will find Brunei River which is very clean. And right in the middle of Brunei River, standing a famous village throughout Brunei. It’s called Kampung Ayer.

Every direction sign is always accompanied by an Arabic script.

I always observed every motorboat which splitting Brunei River wide. There was no other way to get to Kampung Ayer, I had to ride that motorboats.

Rushing toward Brunei River edge, I waited a motorboat arrival which heading to small port in front of me. After leaning, that motorboat was immediately filled with 2 other tourists. This boat was very fast in moving and never waited long for get passengers in river edge.

A thing that you need to know is every Singapore Dollar can be used as payment tool in Brunei Darussalam with similar value with Brunei Dollar. So, 1 Brunei Dollar is same with 1 Singapore Dollar in value. But in many transactions, Brunei residents only accept payments in Singapore’s paper money and refusing Singapore Dollar coins. But in several transactions also, this coin can function….I hope you are lucky in using Singapore Dollar coins there….hahaha.

With a 1 coin of Singapore Dollar, I finally arrived in Kampung Ayer Cultural And Tourism Gallery. This gallery is located in front of village. Free entrance made me so happy when filling a guest book in reception desk. Warm greeting from a Malay-speaking receptionist made me feel like I was in my home.

That is Kampung Ayer Cultural And Tourism Gallery.

Kampung Ayer itself was the center of Brunei’s government until end of 19th century. Therefore, The Brunei Sultan established his palace here. Another role as an important port in Brunei makes Kampung Ayer as the administrative center for commercial activities in Brunei. Every signing of important government agreements with other parties is done here.

The appeal of Kampung Ayer as government centre made 50% of Brunei’s residents live there in the 1900s.

Brunei “Keris” with 9 curves as a symbol of power.

At exit door, I began to be stunned with neat ranks of houses in Kampung Ayer. I didn’t waste my time then visiting the village. Residents friendliness made me reluctant to quickly leave Kampung Ayer.

Very kindly and funny student, they were in Malay school uniforms.

But soonly, I realized that I should immediately look for lodging to stay that night. Online searching for lodging that I did was never got a result. It maybe happen because Brunei Darussalam tourism isn’t been famous in Southeast Asia region.

I decided to pull over by waiting for a motorboat in boat shelter. Didn’t wait a long time until a motorboat was picked me up. Together with a man and his son who are Kampung Ayer residents, I headed to edge of river. Looked like that man had an important agenda, it could be seen from his way in a very neat and smooth dressing.

He: “Where are you come from?” He firstly greeted me with a smile.

Me: “I’m from Indonesia, sir”. I gave a smile and I shook his hand.

He: “Which part of Indonesia?”

Me : “Jakarta, Sir”.

He: “What profession are you doing here?”

Me: “Oh I don’t work in Brunei, sir. I am just traveling now”.

He: “Brunei is very quiet. Why do you visit Brunei? “

Me: “Oh, Brunei is very religious, sir. I deliberately go to Brunei because I intend to travel around Southeast Asia. Glad to be in your country “.

He: “Wow, it’s good to go around Southeast Asia. You don’t need to pay the boat. I paid for you”, He gave 3 Brunei Dollars to motorboat driver.

Me: “Thank you, sir, nice to meet you,” I felt shy, even though I was very happy to ride a free boat.

A little conversation with a local before I finally leaned in river edge.

Let’s….Looking for dormitory!

Berwisata ke Kampung Ayer, Bandar Seri Begawan.

20 July 2019travelingpersecond

Rasa penasaran terbayar tepat saat langkah pertamaku menuruni bus di salah satu platform terminal bus Bandar Seri Begawan. Tak kuduga, petualanganku berkeliling Asia Tenggara mengantarkanku ke negeri Hassanal Bolkiah.

Unik….Terminal berada di lantai bawah Bumiputera Multi Storey Complex and Carpark.

Selangkah kemudian, Aku sudah berada di dalam Warung Makan Afmal di sisi terminal untuk menikmati seporsi bakso. Butuh sesuatu yang segar di mulut untuk menghilangkan kekusutan pasca bermalam tanpa mandi pagi di Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2 (KLIA2). Kesegaran bakso yang kupesan semakin bermakna ketika terjadi obrolan ringan dengan si empunya warung makan yang asli Purworejo, Jawa Tengah….Wah tetangga sendiri ternyata.

Selepas kenyang, Aku bergegas untuk keluar dari area terminal melalui Lorong Bebatik menuju sebuah jalan besar (Jalan Mc Arthur). Tepat disisi lain Jalan Mc Arthur, Kamu akan menemukan Brunei River yang sangat bersih. Dan tepat di tengah Brunei River, berdiri sebuah perkampungan terkenal di seantero Brunei. Namanya Kampung Ayer.

Setiap petunjuk jalan selalu dilengkapi aksara Arab.

Aku terus mengamati lalu lalang perahu bermesin yang membelah lebarnya Brunei River. Tidak ada cara lain memang untuk menuju Kampung Ayer, Aku harus menaiki perahu-perahu kecil itu.

Bergegas menuju pinggiran Brunei River, Aku menantikan kedatangan sebuah perahu yang menuju ke tepi. Begitu bersandar, bersamaku perahu itu langsung terisi dengan 2 turis lainnya. Perahu ini sangat cepat bergerak dan tak pernah menunggu lama di tepian sungai.

Yang perlu kamu tahu bahwa setiap dolar Singapura bisa digunakan sebagai alat bayar di Brunei Darussalam dengan nilai yang sama dengan Dolar Brunei. Jadi 1 Dolar Brunei nilainya sama dengan 1 Dolar Singapura. Hanya terkadang di beberapa transaksi, warga Brunei hanya menerima pembayaran dalam bentuk uang kertas dan menolak menggunakan koin Dolar Singapura. Tetapi ada juga di beberapa transaksi, koin ini bisa berfungsi.

Dengan koin 1 Dolar Singapura, Aku akhirnya tiba di Kampung Ayer Cultural And Tourism Gallery. Galeri ini terletak di bagian paling depan perkampungan. Free entrance membuatku begitu sumringah ketika mengisi buku tamu di bagian reception. Sapaan hangat sepasang resepsionis berbahasa Melayu membuatku seakan berada di kampung sendiri….Kampung Rambutan….eeaaaa.

Itu dia Kampung Ayer Cultural And Tourism Gallery.

Mendapatkan *Free Tourism Guiding Book*.

Kampung Ayer sendiri pernah menjadi pusat pemerintahan Brunei hingga akhir abad ke-19. Oleh karenanya, para sultan Brunei mendirikan istananya di sini. Peran lain sebagai pelabuhan penting di Brunei menjadikan Kampung Ayer sebagai pusat administrasi atas aktivitas komersial di Brunei. Setiap penandatanganan perjanjian penting pemerintah dengan pihak lain dilakukan disini.

Daya tarik Kampung Ayer sebagai pusat pemerintahan menjadikan 50% warga Brunei tinggal didalamnya pada tahun 1900-an.

Keris Brunei dengan 9 lekukan sebagai simbol kekuasaan

Di pintu keluar, Aku mulai tertelisik dengan rapinya jajaran rumah di perkampungan. Aku pun tak menyia-nyiakan waktu dengan memasuki bagian dalam perkampungan. Bersua dengan para penghuni membuatku enggan untuk cepat-cepat meninggalkan Kampung Ayer.

Lucunya anak-anak sekolah itu dengan seragam Melayu.

Tapi Aku segera tersadar bahwa Aku harus segera mencari penginapan untuk bermalam nanti. Pencarian penginapan secara online yang kulakukan tak pernah membuahkan hasil. Ini terjadi mungkin karena pariwisata Brunei Darussalam yang belum tersohor di kawasan Asia Tenggara.

Kuputuskan untuk menepi dengan menunggu perahu di boat shelter. Tak menunggu waktu lama sebuah perahu menjemputku. Bersama seorang Bapak dan anaknya yang merupakan warga Kampung Ayer, Aku menuju ke tepi. Sepertinya sang Bapak mempunyai agenda penting, terlihat dari caranya berpakaian khas Melayu yang sangat rapi dan klimis.

Dia: “Asal mana, Adek?”, Dia menyapaku pertama kali dengan senyum.

Aku: “Saya dari Indonesia, Pak”. Kubalas senyum dan kuajak berjabat tangan.

Dia: “Indonesia bagian mana?”

Aku: “Jakarta, pak”.

Dia: “Kerja apa disini?”

Aku: “Oh, Saya melawat (berwisata) Pak di Brunei”.

Dia: “Brunei kan sepi, Adek. Kok melawatnya ke Brunei?”

Aku: “Oh, Brunei religius ya Pak. Saya sengaja ke Brunei Pak karena berniat keliling Asia Tenggara. Senang bisa ke negeri Bapak”.

Dia: “Wah, bagus ya keliling Asia Tenggara. Adek, ga usah bayar ya perahunya. Ini sudah Saya bayar”, Dia memberikan 3 lembar Dolar Brunei ke pengemudi perahu.

Aku: “Terimakasih ya Pak, Senang bertemu dengan Bapak”, sambil pura-pura tersipu malu padahal senang banget naik perahu gratisan.

Sekelumit percakapan dengan warga lokal sebelum akhirnya Aku bersandar di tepi.

*Boat shelter* dekat Pasar Tamu Kianggeh

Yuk….Cari dormitory !.