Osakajo

Tom Cruise and Osaka Castle

5 May 20224 May 2022travelingpersecond

You know this this “Handsome Role” right?…

The picture is a scene from the movie “The Last Samurai”, when Captain Nathan, played by Tom Cruise, honorably fights with the leader of Samurai, namely Katsumoto, played by veteran Japanese actor Ken Watanabe, against the soldiers of Emperor Meiji who are trained by American Army. The background of this war is “Modernization vs Feudalism”. Emperors glorified modernization and Samurai maintained tradition.

Those are just a few of many heartbreaking mosaics that made Japan’s history when it transformed from a conventional country to a modern one. One such mosaic is Boshin War, a civil war which left a mark of destruction and was recorded in this historical place which I visited.

Yups….This is Osakajo….People call it as Osaka Castle or Osaka Castle.

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On 09:50 hours, I stepped on the platform of Tanimachi 4-chome Station, then exited through one of its gates where Osaka Museum of History and Hoenzaka Iseki proudly stood in station’s courtyard. My steps continued to be connected on Uemachi-suji Avenue with red maple tree decorations on both sides.

Its strong history made Osaka Castle be my first destination in the city with a nicknamed “Manchester From East”. I really didn’t want to delay and lose my first glance at king’s palace which is more than four centuries old. The distance is only six kilometers from Kaga Hotel where I stayed and the availability of Osaka Metro line to it made it so easy to access this destination.

Did you dare to introduceing yourself to her?

Not long in walking, I arrived at Osaka Castle, through Otemon Gate to be exact. Otemon Gate itself is on east side of palace, while on its west side is provided Aoyamon Gate. Like an ancient palace, this place is surrounded by a wide canal nearly a hundred meters long as a form of defense.

Passing a bridge, pedestrian path began to direct every tourist to enter a side of Otemon Gate. It began with a door made of two towering steel sheets. After that, plastered walls which made from fine andesite, some of which were left intact with a length and width of almost five meters.

Soon the second gate greeted. The gate with a size larger than the first one was nicknamed Osakajo Tamon-yagura which was composed of large, intact and sturdy wood. Through this second gate, tourists would automatically enter palace area which had an area of not less than six hectares.

In some fragments of its history, it’s told that this castle was destroyed by fire due to the Boshin War in 1868. Now the Boshin War itself has been illustrated by Tom Cruise in the preambule at the beginning of this article.

I arrived at southern courtyard, call it as Osaka Castle Park. This is where tourists gather and enjoy the elegance of castle made by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the leader of Japan’s Sengoku Period. I took time to take pictures with old samurai role in castle grounds. Even to got rid of loneliness, I often have fun posing behind a group of tourists who were taking pictures. Grinning horses, jumping, waving or whatever I did. Sometimes it made one of that group pointed at me while laughing after seeing their photos in their digital room. Seriously acute.

After an hour of enjoying Osaka Castle, I decided to sit down and enjoyed the Ikayaki which I bought from one of many food truck which was neatly lined up in east courtyard. A portion of Ikayaki was priced about 300 Yen. Ups, do you know Ikayaki?…. It was a large grilled squid seasoned with mirin (Japanese seasoning).

The original samurai armor is usually in black colour, right?.

Finishing in eating Ikayaki, or at exactly 10:30 am, I started to leave Osaka Castle area and planned to head to Naniwa City District.

Where would I step?………

Magazine, Osaka Metro and Osaka Castle

3 May 2022travelingpersecond

A quarter of an hour to nine….I left Kaga Hotel in Nishinari City District after leaving my backpack in reception area. I rushed to Dobutsuen-mae Station. But first, I had to stuff something into my stomach before arriving at station. Since midnight last night, when I arrived in Osaka, I haven’t eaten a bite.

I decided to look for the nearest convenience store. On the way to station, I found a FamilyMart on the edge of Saka-suji Avenue. I won’t be munching on onigiri again for breakfast. I’ve been bored since two days ago routinely chewing that food. Finally I chose a cup noodle and immediately took the queue in front of cashier. Waiting my turn, one by one, FamilyMart customers completed their payment. I only reflexively followed forward when the queue in front also advanced, but actually my eyes never looked ahead.

Cashier : “Hello”

I still didn’t budge.

Cashier: “Hello”

I still thought thar it was the turn of someone who queueing in front of me

Cashier: “Helloooo….Sir. You…..Sir”.

Me: “Oh it’s my turn, sorry” The cashier just smiled when he saw my face was red with embarrassment. Damn….She and the queue behind me were grinning in unison because they caught me staring at a corner of a shelf with many adult magazines neatly arranged. Luckily the cashier didn’t offer me to buy the magazine….I was embarrassed.

This kind of thing is common in Japan…..

After paying, I headed to a dispenser. Pour hot water into cup noodles and took a corner of that convenience store to eat it.

Cashier: “Helloooo Sir, eat outside, please!”

Ohhh….I was embarrassed, expelled out again, even though I was avoiding cold air outside. In the end, I still ate my cup noodles while standing in front of minimarket while chilling happily….My fate.

Moments later, I were eaten all my noodles until there was no gravy left. I continued to the north. Arriving at the intersection of Abiko-suji Avenue, I immediately headed underground through one of gates belonging to Dobutsuen-mae Station which is on the south bank of main road.

Me: “Hello, How can I get a One Day Pass, Sir”. I made sure not to buy it too long like what happened two days ago in Tokyo.

Security Officer: “Doko e ikitai desu ka?”, apparently this man couldn’t speak English.

Me: “Osaka Castle, Sir”.

Security Officer: “Hooooohhhh….”. He didn’t even know

Me: “Osakajo”.

That security officer then smiled nodding and ushered me through a corridor and then he pointed to an automatic vending machine.

“Arigatou Gozaimasu”, I told him. Even though if you are looking for a machine like this, I can too. Is the One Day Pass sold separately from the machine, that’s what I meant…..Hmmh.

Never mind, I started hitting that automatic vending machine button. I could smile with relief because this machine was not as complicated as the one in Tokyo. I put in a 1,000 Yen sheet, pressed the “ENGLISH” button, continued to the “CARD” button and finally I found the “ONE DAY PASS” button for 600 Yen.

That night was the first overseas New Year’s Eve for me. I purposely bought an One Day Pass because I was going home after midnight, after New Year’s Eve Countdown of course.

Now I was getting ready to take Osaka Metro. It was also my first time experiencing subways in Japan after having only tasted surface trains nine times in a row since my arrival in Tokyo.

I started at Midosuji Line and then changed to Tanimhaci Line at Tennoji Station. Drove north for five kilometers and within fifteen minutes, I finally arrived at Tanimachi 4-chome Station in Chuo City District.

I immediately exited through the exit gate where Osaka Museum of History building and the historical landmark Hoenzaka Iseki are located. From there, I continued along Uemachi-suji Avenue towards Osaka Castle which was only one kilometer away.

Hoenzaka iseki, 5th Century warehouse building in Japan.

I arrived at Otemon gate of Osaka Castle

Let’s exploring Osakajo…..

Tom Cruise dan Osaka Castle

8 January 202122 January 2021travelingpersecond

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Gambar itu adalah penggalan adegan film “ The Last Samurai”, ketika Kapten Nathan yang diperankan Tom Cruise bertarung secara terhormat bersama pemimpin para Samurai yaitu Katsumoto yang diperankan aktor kawakan Jepang Ken Watanabe melawan tentara Kaisar Meiji yang dilatih oleh Angkatan Darat Amerika. Latar belakang perang ini adalah “Modernisasi Vs Feodalisme”. Kaisar mengagungkan modernisasi dan Samurai mempertahankan tradisi.

Itulah sedikit dari banyak mozaik memilukan penyusun sejarah Jepang ketika bertransformasi dari negara konvensional menjadi negara modern. Satu mozaik itu adalah Perang Boshin, perang saudara yang meninggalkan bekas kerusakan dan terekam di dalam tempat bersejarah yang aku kunjungi ini.

Yups….Inilah Osakajo….Khalayak menyebutnya Kastil Osaka atau Osaka Castle.

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Pukul 09:50, aku menjejakkan langkah di peron Stasiun Tanimachi 4-chome, kemudian keluar melintasi salah satu gerbangnya dimana Osaka Museum of History dan Hoenzaka iseki berdiri gagah di pelatarannya. Langkahku terus tersambung di Uemachi-suji Avenue dengan hiasan pohon red maple di kedua sisinya.

Sejarahnya yang kuat menjadikan Osaka Castle sebagai destinasi pertamaku di kota berjuluk “Manchester dari Timur”. Aku memang tak mau menunda dan kehilangan pandangan pertama pada istana raja yang berusia lebih dari empat abad itu. Jaraknya yang hanya enam kilometer dari Hotel Kaga tempatku menginap dan tersedianya jalur Osaka Metro menujunya membuatku begitu mudah mengakses destinasi itu.

Tak lama berjalan kaki, aku pun tiba di Osaka Castle, melalui Otemon Gate tepatnya. Otemon Gate sendiri berada di sisi timur istana, sedangkan di seberang barat disediakan Aoyamon Gate. Seperti layaknya istana zaman dahulu, tempat ini dikelilingi oleh kanal lebar sepanjang hampir seratus meter sebagai bentuk pertahanan.

Melewati sebuah jembatan, jalur pejalan kaki mulai mengarahkan setiap wisatawan memasuki sisi Otemon Gate. Diawali dengan pintu berbahan dua lembar baja menjulang. Setelahnya, terpampang dinding-dinding berbahan andesit halus yang beberapa diantaranya dibiarkan utuh dengan panjang dan lebar hampir lima meter.

Tak lama gerbang kedua menyambut. Gerbang dengan ukuran lebih besar dari yang pertama itu berjuluk Osakajo Tamon-yagura yang disusun dari kayu-kayu besar, utuh serta kokoh. Melewati gerbang kedua inilah, wisatawan secara otomatis memasuki area istana yang memiliki luas tak kurang dari enam hektar.

Dalam beberapa fragmen perjalanan, diceritakakan bahwa kastil ini pernah luluh lantak oleh api akibat Perang Boshin pada tahun 1868. Nah Perang Boshin sendiri sudah diilustrasikan oleh Tom Cruise pada preambule di awal.

Tibalah aku di pelataran selatan, sebut saja Osaka Castle Park. Disinilah para wisatawan berkumpul dan menikmati keanggunan kastil buatan Toyotomi Hideyoshi, sang pemimpin Jepang Zaman Sengoku. Aku menyempatkan diri berfoto dengan samurai tua di pelataran kastil. Bahkan untuk mengusir kesepian, aku sering iseng dengan berpose di belakang rombongan turis yang sedang berfoto. Nyengir kuda, melompat, melambaikan tangan atau apapun kulakukan. Terkadang membuat salah satu rombongan itu menunjukku sambil tertawa setelah melihat hasil foto di kamara digital mereka. Parah akut memang.

Genap satu jam menikmati Osaka Castle, aku memutuskan untuk duduk dan menikmati Ikayaki yang kubeli dari food truck yang berjejer rapi di timur pelataran. Setusuk Ikayaki disana dihargai dengan 300 Yen (Rp. 41.000). Eh, tahu kan Ikayaki?…. Itu lho, cumi bakar ukuran besar yang dibumbui mirin (bumbu khas Jepang).

Baju zirah milik samurai asli kan warnanya hitam.

Kalau punya duit, boleh ngemil. Kalau ga punya duit tapi kepengen, boleh juga, ga ada yang ngelarang.

Menuntaskan Ikayaki, atau tepat pukul 10:30, aku mulai meninggalkan area Osaka Castle dan berencana menuju ke Distrik Kota Naniwa.

Kemanakah gerangan?……….

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Majalah Dewasa, Osaka Metro dan Osaka Castle

4 January 20218 May 2021travelingpersecond

<—-Kisah sebelumnya

Seperempat jam menuju pukul sembilan….Aku meninggalkan Hotel Kaga di Distrik Kota Nishinari setelah menitipkan backpack di ruang resepsionis. Aku bergegas menuju Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae. Tetapi terlebih dahulu, aku harus menjejalkan sesuatu ke perut sebelum tiba di stasiun itu. Sedari tengah malam tadi, ketika aku tiba di Osaka, belum sesuap pun aku makan.

Aku memutuskan mencari minimarket terdekat. Dalam langkah menuju stasiun, kutemukan sebuah FamilyMart di tepian Saka-suji Avenue. Aku tak akan mengunyah onigiri lagi sebagai sarapan. Aku sudah bosan sejak dua hari lalu rutin mengunyah makanan itu. Akhirnya aku memilih sebuah cup noodle dan segera mengambil antrian di depan kasir. Menunggu giliran, satu persatu pelanggan FamilyMart itu menyelesaikan kewajiban. Aku hanya reflek ikut maju ketika antrian di depan juga maju, tetapi sesungguhnya mataku tak pernah menatap ke depan.

Kasir : “Hello”

Aku masih tak bergeming.

Kasir: “Helloo”

Aku masih berfikir itu giliran pengantri di depanku

Kasir: “Helloooo….Sir. You…..Sir”.

Aku: “Oh it’s my turn, sorry”

Kasir itu hanya senyam-senyum saja melihat mukaku yang memerah karena malu. Sial….Dia dan pengantri di belakangku kompak nyengar-nyengir karena memergoki aku memandangi sebuah sudut rak dengan banyak majalah dewasa yang tersusun rapi. Untung si kasir tidak menawariku untuk membeli majalah itu….Kan malu.

Yang beginian sudah biasa di Jepang….Duhhhh….

Selepas membayar, aku menuju ke sebuah dispenser. Menuang air panas ke cup noodles dan mengambil sebuah pojok minimarket untuk menyantapnya.

Kasir: “Helloooo Sir eat outside, please!”

Duhhhh….Sudah malu, kena usir lagi,. Padahal aku sedang menghindari hawa dingin di luar sana. Ujung-ujungnya, aku tetap saja menyantap cup noodles sambil berdiri di depan minimarket sembari berdingin ria….Nasibbb.

Sewaktu kemudian, cup noodles itu ludes hingga kuahnya pun tak bersisa. Aku melanjutkan langkah ke utara. Tiba di perempatan Abiko-suji Avenue, aku segera menuju bawah tanah melalui salah satu gate milik Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae yang berada di tepi selatan jalan besar itu.

Aku: “Hello, How can I get a One Day Pass, Sir”. Aku memastikan supaya tak kelamaan membelinya seperti kejadian dua hari lalu di Tokyo.

Petugas Keamanan: “Doko e ikitai desu ka?”, rupanya bapak ini tidak bisa berbahasa Inggris.

Aku: “Osaka Castle, Sir”.

Petugas Keamanan: “Hoooohhhhh….”. Dia belum ngerti juga

Aku: “Osakajo”.

Petugas itu lantas tersenyum mengangguk-angguk dan mengantarkanku melalui sebuah koridor lalu menunjuk ke automatic vending machine.

“Arigatou Gozaimasu”, ucapku padanya. Padahal kalau mencari mesin beginian, aku juga bisa. Apakah One Day Pass dijual terpisah dari mesin, itu yang kumaksudkan…..Hmmh.

Sudahlah, aku mulai memencat-mencet tombol automatic vending machine itu. Aku bisa tersenyum lega karena mesin ini tak serumit seperti yang di Tokyo. Aku memasukkan selembar 1.000 Yen, memencet “ENGLISH” button, berlanjut ke “CARD” button dan akhirnya kutemukan “ONE DAY PASS” button seharga 600 Yen (Rp. 82.000).

Malam itu adalah malam tahun baru di luar negeri yang pertama buatku. Aku sengaja membeli One Day Pass karena akan pulang selepas tengah malam, setelah New Year’s Eve Countdown tentunya.

Kini aku bersiap menaiki Osaka Metro. Ini juga pertama kalinya aku merasakan kereta bawah tanah di Jepang setelah sembilan kali berturut-turut hanya mencicipi kereta permukaan semenjak ketibaanku di Tokyo.

Aku mulai menyusuri Midosuji Line lalu berpindah ke Tanimhaci Line di Stasiun Tennoji. Melaju ke utara sejauh lima kilomater dan dalam lima belas menit, aku akhirnya tiba di Stasiun Tanimachi 4-chome di Distrik Kota Chuo.

Aku segera keluar melalui exit gate dimana gedung Osaka Museum of History dan landmark bersejarah Hoenzaka iseki berada. Dari situ, aku terus menelusuri Uemachi-suji Avenue menuju Osaka Castle yang hanya berjarak satu kilometer.

Hoenzaka iseki, bangunan gudang dari Abad ke-5 di Jepang.

Mari kita eksplore Osakajo…..

Kisah Selanjutnya—->