Dōtonbori Canal: Failed New Year’s Countdown

“Hi Sir, have fun and enjoy the New Year’s Eve”, the friendly receptionist with glasses managed to guess my intentions when I was about to leave the lobby of Hotel Kaga.

“Hi, you know that….Hahaha….You too, Sir. See you”, I lightly joked.

“See you, Sir”, the receptionist was still smiling.

I started walking on street with the ambient temperature near zero degrees Celsius. My face froze as I followed my swing of steps towards Dobutsuen-mae Station. For the third time I passed Saka-suji Avenue.

“Tonight there will be a lot of drunk people on the streets”, I thought reminding my logic to continue to be careful even though Japan is a safe country.

My Enjoy Eco Card was still effective until that night to explore underground alleys of Osaka City. Now I was driving with Osaka Metro Midosuji Line carriage to Namba Station. I purposely put Dōtonbori Canal as my last destination in Osaka City and I cleverly placed it during New Year’s Eve celebrations.

“Surely there will be lively”, I excitedly thought.

The train I was in was full. Some of them were not Japanese faces. Surely they were travelers who intended a same thing as me, enjoying New Year’s Eve. My journey to Namba Station went very quickly because from Dobutsuen-mae Station there wasn’t a single station which I passed. I would be there in ten minutes.

Exiting the gates of Namba Station, I walked along Mido-suji Avenue. Keep heading north. My estimate was that it would only take ten minutes to reach Dōtonbori Canal. But it was been twenty minutes I still haven’t arrived.

“Wow …. I must have strayed”, my face began to wry.

I ventured to ask a traffic policeman who seemed to be on guard on a side of sidewalk.

“Sir, do you know where is this place?”, I opened my phone and showed a neon Glico board with a picture of famous running man.

He kindly smiled and nodded while joking excitedly “Oh…There….There”.

“Thank you very much, Sir”, I waved as I walked away from him.

“You ale welcome”, the policeman looked around again.

Ten minutes of retracing the path I had taken earlier, I saw several groups of European tourists heading in a direction. I was sure that was where I was headed. I followed that group of tourists. Sure enough, they were also headed for Dōtonbori Canal.

I was at Dōtonbori Canal.
Glico neon sign with a running man.
Famous landmark in Osaka.

The Dōtonbori Canal at ten o’clock was already lively. The body of canal was filled with tourists, while restaurants and bars seemed to be full. Rich tourists would prefer to wait for New Year’s Eve from restaurants and bars which offer warm air. But I decided to wait for it at the bank of canal, wandering around here and there, trying to enjoy the atmosphere even though I was distracted by freezing air of Osaka.

An hour passed as I walked along each side of canal, then I took my place under the bridge, hoping to find some warm air. But in vain, the air had fallen below zero degrees Celsius. When I couldn’t stand the freezing air, I rushed to a Takoyaki stall. I deliberately queued, waited for order, and ate it for a long time in front of stall to get exposure to warm air which gushed from stall’s stove.

Clinging to the stove for warmth.

Almost half an hour I took advantage of that situation to manipulate cold temperature. Until finally I kicked myself out because the queue of buyers started to get crowded. I returned to the canal half an hour before New Year’s countdown.

As I struggled back against the cold on a side of the canal, I heard faintly familiar language and accents.

“Ngenteni kene wae cah, ra sah adoh adoh (just waiting here, bro, not too far)” a fainty setence was heard, it was Javanese Language.

I looked back, four men and two of them with long hair were sitting on the side of canal, holding a large bottle of alcohol. It was indeed an effective way of fighting the cold. It reminded me of a alcoholic drink I had because I bought the wrong one at Narita International Airpot on other day. But I haven’t given up, I won’t drink it.

I continued to endure the growing cold. My hands started to go numb. But I tried to stay calm. Until finally five minutes before the countdown arrived. Tourists began pouring in along the sides of canal, restaurants and bars abandoned. Everyone hoped there would be an elegant fireworks display. Until the time came, the count really began.

“Tennnn….Nineeee….Eightttt….”, the count was getting louder

“Threeee…..Twoooo….Oneeee…..Happyyyy Newwww Yeearrrr”, but everyone felt silent for three seconds.

The atmosphere of Dotonbori Canal remain quiet, nothing special. Fifteen minutes later it was still the same, quiet.

“Ah, failed miserably”, I was getting annoyed.

Other tourists began too complain. There would be no fireworks display. Until finally ten young Japanese took the initiative to acquire the atmosphere by climbing bridge railing. They took off their clothes and left their underwear in freezing cold. Then one of them started screaming.

“Threeee….Twoooo….Oneeee”, while swerving jumping like a beautiful jumper with their head plunged into the water first.

“Byurrrrr…”

Then the same behavior began to be carried out by their friend who was ready and standing on bridge railing. Counting to three countdowns, his turn jumped into the water. And the show stopped until the tenth person. At least what they did could cure the disappointment of all visitors to Dōtonbori Canal.

The diving show was over.

By one o’clock in the morning. The air which initially felt warmer because of the crowd of hundreds of visitors was finally disbanded. The temperature quickly cooled back as visitors began to leave the Dōtonbori Canal. I started going from that place towards Namba Station.

A few minutes later, Osaka Metro took me back to Dobutsuen-mae Station. I was very lucky that my Enjoy Eco Card (One Day Pass) was still valid even though it had passed the expiration date, which was 00:00 am. Maybe this would be a bonus from Osaka Metro for New Year celebration.

Until Dobutsuen-mae Station, then I left it at a brisk pace. Saka-suji Avenue was deserted, even my steps was marked by an incident of a drunk driver who stopped his car in the middle of road until several people tried to push him to side. At an intersection I turned along with hearing  a greeting“Helloooo….Happyyyy Newwww Yearrrr, Sirrrr”, a man was riding a bicycle with his right hand holding a bottle of alcoholic drink.

“Happy New Year, sir”, I replied to show friendliness.

Until finally my steps arrived at Hotel Kaga. I felt relieved that I came in hotel safely without less anything. The receptionist was still faithful to his duties, waiting for his desk with discipline.

“Are you happy, Sir?….Good luck for you in the new year”, he smiled at me.

“Sure, Sir…I hope so for you”, I replied. “It’s time to sleep”.

“Yeah….Heve a good sleep, Sir”

I left him for the lift, it took me to third floor. I unsteadily stepped into room. Entering the room, taking off my boots, pulling up the folding bed, and without taking a shower, I immediately threw myself down and quickly fell asleep.

Meanwhile, the bottle of alcoholic drink which had been swallowed by accident two days ago was gracefully standing on a small table in my room. Yess, I didn’t touch it on New Year’s Eve. That means, the alcoholic beverage bottle adventure ended early that morning. Because by noon I would leave Osaka and heading to Busan.

South Korea, I was coming!

Channel No 63 Hotel Kaga

That night was New Year’s Eve. This was the first time I would enjoy New Year abroad, Osaka to be exact. Inevitably I had intended to enjoy how lively Osaka night was on New Year’s Eve Countdown.

But it was only 5 p.m when I finished very late lunch menu. I left a home-based restaurant whcih stood in an alley in America-mura, after enjoying its chicken ramen.

Now I have a intention which I must fulfill….Yupz, SLEEP.

I couldn’t hide my drowsines after only sleeping at Kansai International Airport for four hours all night. I myself didn’t want to attend New Year’s countdown without fresh face that night.

“See you America-mura”, I jokingly thought as I stepped out of an alley and began to step at Mido-suji Avenue towards Shinsaibashi Station. It was almost six-thirty in the afternoon when I started boarding Osaka Metro to Dobutsuen-mae Station on Midosuji Line.

From Dobutsuen-mae Station, I continued on walking along Saka-suji Avenue to reach the inn. I slowly entered Haginochaya area and soon arrived at Hotel Kaga.

“Hello, Mr. Donny. So afternoon you arrive”, male receptionist with glasses lightly greeted me then stood up from his chair and swiftly took my blue backpack.

“Yes, Sir. Osaka is very interesting, so I will regret it if I come back to hotel too early”, I caught backpack he handed me.

“I think I should sleep to prepare myself for New Year’s Eve tonight”

“Yes, that’s a great idea, Sir”.

I asked permission to immediately entering the room after he gave me a key. I already paid the hotel fare that morning when I left my backpack. I took a quick step towards lift whose doors were already open because someone was using it, then slid up to third floor. As soon as I arrived at the room, I immediately hung up my winter jacket, took off my boots, lowered my backpack, pulled the folding mattress and threw myself onto the mattress.

A single room I booked a month before departure.
Room costs 1,800 Yen per night.

Zzzzz……..Zzzzz…..Zzzzz….I quickly drifted off to sleep because of my tired body and sleepy eyes.

It was a little past nine-thirty when I automatically woke up. That’s how I am, if there is an intention to wake up at a certain hour then without even turning on the alarm then I will wake up automatically at that hour. I rarely miss, maybe this is a remnant of my childhood habit when I often got up long before dawn to study. #discipline

I still felt lazy to get out of bed and continued to be comfortable with warm room. Keep imagining how uncomfortable it would be to travel outside where the temperature was almost zero degrees Celsius. I grabbed the TV remote beside me, I just realized that before I went to sleep I had turned on the TV. Practically the TV was watching me when I sleep, not me watching it.

Want to watch Japanese TV shows….Beware with its surprise!

Of course I didn’t know what was being said on every Japanese television show. All I know was a reality show about romance, quizzes with prizes or guessing some cases and events on the evening news. I continued to explore further until channel numbered above 40. Several sporting events as well as flora and fauna began to appear. Now the channel was at 60. I kep exploring….

61….62….

I was suddenly shocked when I entered CHANNEL NO. 63. How not, it is an uncensored adult film channel. My God, what was this…..I would try to skip it, moved on to the next channel. Not long ago moved, for some reason this hand was always curious to press the shortcut to CHANNEL NO. 63, then tried to resist and switching to another channel again. Gosh….Then switch again to CHANNEL NO. 63…..The “Black-White” battle seemed fierce in my mind. Until finally didn’t feel the time was showing nine o’clock.

It was about time I went to New Year’s celebrations with Osakans and other tourists out there. I had read the announcements at many stations that afternoon that Osaka Metro’s operating hours would be extended well past the early hours of the morning. That was good news and I didn’t have to break into my pocket to find a taxi when I got back.

I put my boots back on and put my two jackets on to fight the cold. Remember when I accidentally drank alcohol at Narita International Airport?. Yups, that alcoholic drink was still there and only one drink less at that time. I put it in my winter jacket pocket and I used it as a precaution. I have to be prepared if temperature outside got too extreme in the middle of night….WHO KNOWS?….But hopefully I won’t have to drink it again until my adventure in Osaka was over.

Coins in America-mura

From Namba Station I took Osaka Metro on Midosuji Line, not a single station which I passed, I got off at Shinsaibashi Station. Then started to taking steps south down Mido-suji Avenue. Mido-suji Avenue itself is a four-lane street flanked by slow lanes on either side. The slow lane and the fast lane are limited by rows of shady trees which are neatly arranged following the contours of road.

In the next three hundred meters, I would be at America-mura. Its close enough distance from Namba Parks made me interested in visiting the place at same time.

America-mura or as people call it Amemura is a nine-block American-designed village located right on the east side of Mido-suji Avenue, in Chūō-ku City District to be exact. The village is bounded in south by Dōtonbori Canal, to the north by Nagahori-dori Avenue while to the east by Osaka Metro Yotsubashi Line. America-mura occupies a land area of ​​no less than sixteen hectares. Wide isn’t it?

In front of New American Plaza.

Adopting American lifestyle, this area is very thick with the “Uncle Sam” brand. Entering an alley, my steps were greeted by a Starbucks outlet and a McDonald’s outlet following after. Fashion shops with Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein logos and other well-known brands were very easy to find.

The alley in America-mura area is no more than five meters wide. Narrow path makes it be a one-way street. Street light pole is designed like a skinny and tall living character. Mural art is also easy to find on every side of America-mura. Along the edge of sidewalk installed bollards to protect pedestrians. Meanwhile, bicycle rentals are scattered at various points.

As long as you walk, America-mura is indeed designed as a place to shop. Fashion shops lined up very tightly cramming every side of road combined with bars, minimarkets, restaurants and of course lodging.

After almost an hour exploring every corner of Americamura, I was starting to feel hungry. The tantalizing aroma of East Asian food consistently scented the streets. I decided to start looking for a place to eat. Luckily, most restaurants in America-ura display their flagship menu prices at their doorstep. So each visitor can choose food according to their interests. As for me, it wasn’t about menu, I looked at each menu on display just to see what the lowest price was. It took a long time to find a restaurant to get pocket-friendly prices.

My steps finally stopped at a home-based restaurant which offering a frugal menu. This restaurant was managed by house owner and assisted by his son who seemed to be still in elementary school.

I sat on a corner seat opposite a table with a young office woman who seemed eager to eat noodle dish in front of her. I ordered chicken ramen and as usual for drinking, I relied on water provided in the teapot at every restaurant table. While sitting, I noticed the child’s agility in delivering orders after his father finished processing the menu.

Shortly after ordering, my chicken ramen came. I ate it while cracking a slurp of noodles in the bowl, of course I wanted to respect and showed that the restaurant owner’s chicken ramen was so delicious. The chicken ramen was gone in no less than fifteen minutes.

Nyammm….

Now I presented the next silence. I purposely paid with coins. Because I have a lot of coins accumulated from my adventures in Tokyo. When the boy handed a bill on small tray, I spilled a coin worth 600 Yen on the tray. The boy looked troubled and nervous to counting it. I just smiled amused to see him when he had to repeat in counting coins. The office woman next to my seat was laughing, covering her mouth with her hand.

Feeling given up in counting, he ran the tray over to counter and handed it to his father to counting. After finishing counting, his father wrote something on bill paper and his boy came back to me. Oh, his father wrote that I paid less than 12 Yen. I made up for it and the boy broadly smiled at me. I smiled back at him and started packing to leave the restaurant.

Goose Feather at Namba Parks

Leaving Osaka Castle via Uemachi-suji Avenue , I headed for Tanimachi 4-chome Station. Passing rows of red-maple trees planted on each side of road, then head to station entrance which was located at the feet of mighty Osaka Museum of History.

“Enjoy Eco Card” (another name for One Day Pass in Osaka) for 600 Yen made ut comfortable and easy to got in and out of station without having to hunt a ticket at automatic vending machine when you wanted to use the services of Osaka Metro. I just tap the card at ticket collecting gate and enjoyed traveling around Osaka as I please.

Enjoy Eco Card.

Taking Tanimachi Line and changing to Sennichimae Line at Tanimachi 9-chome Station, my journey stopped at Namba Station after traveling three kilometers and in fifteen minutes.

Arriving at the eighty-five year old Namba Station, I exited towards Namba City. Namba City is a very large shopping center in this area.

Stepping in corridor after corridor in Namba City made me interested to stop by and saw some of UNIQLO store’s winter jacket collections in a side of magnificent corridor. An interesting funny story happened to me again here. This was the result of my cheap winter jacket I was wearing. This second-hand winter jacket from Pasar Baru (a market in my town) sheded soft goose down from its inside when I tried on a UNIQLO winter jacket in dressing room. Suddenly, after I came out from fitting room, a female attendant took a broom and dustpan to clean that goose. She just smiled at me when was putting the winter jacket back into display case. Even though, I thought I wouldn’t be able to afford it, I was still determined to try it. How could I not think a thousand times to buy it if a winter jacket was priced at 12,900 Yen.

To forgot about that embarrassing incident, I hurriedly left the store and rushed to Namba Parks. This time I started to be amazed because the access to Namba Parks kept me on indoor pedestrian path, even though Namba City and Namba Parks were in different locations. The indoor corridor continued to south and was directly connected to Namba Parks.

After walking less than two hundred meters from the exit gate of Namba Station, I finally arrived at Namba Parks. The cool garden was designed at the top of shopping center with a contour made of steps like a terrace. I should have visited this park at night because there were a lot of lights installed which would definitely light up at night.

A side of Namba Parks, the park above the mall.

Namba Parks itself is also integrated with a shopping and office complex located in Naniwa City District. In the park, I only took thirty minutes because I wanted to visit Americamura soon to see the shopping and entertainment area from a different perspective.

It was already half past two in the afternoon, I started to leave Namba Parks via original route when I came to Namba Parks.

Tom Cruise and Osaka Castle

You know this this “Handsome Role” right?…

The picture is a scene from the movie “The Last Samurai”, when Captain Nathan, played by Tom Cruise, honorably fights with the leader of Samurai, namely Katsumoto, played by veteran Japanese actor Ken Watanabe, against the soldiers of Emperor Meiji who are trained by American Army. The background of this war is “Modernization vs Feudalism”. Emperors glorified modernization and Samurai maintained tradition.

Those are just a few of many heartbreaking mosaics that made Japan’s history when it transformed from a conventional country to a modern one. One such mosaic is Boshin War, a civil war which left a mark of destruction and was recorded in this historical place which I visited.

Yups….This is Osakajo….People call it as Osaka Castle or Osaka Castle.

—-****—-

On 09:50 hours, I stepped on the platform of Tanimachi 4-chome Station, then exited through one of its gates where Osaka Museum of History and Hoenzaka Iseki proudly stood in station’s courtyard. My steps continued to be connected on Uemachi-suji Avenue with red maple tree decorations on both sides.

Its strong history made Osaka Castle be my first destination in the city with a nicknamed “Manchester From East”. I really didn’t want to delay and lose my first glance at king’s palace which is more than four centuries old. The distance is only six kilometers from Kaga Hotel where I stayed and the availability of Osaka Metro line to it made it so easy to access this destination.

Did you dare to introduceing yourself to her?

Not long in walking, I arrived at Osaka Castle, through Otemon Gate to be exact. Otemon Gate itself is on east side of palace, while on its west side is provided Aoyamon Gate. Like an ancient palace, this place is surrounded by a wide canal nearly a hundred meters long as a form of defense.

Passing a bridge, pedestrian path began to direct every tourist to enter a side of Otemon Gate. It began with a door made of two towering steel sheets. After that, plastered walls which made from fine andesite, some of which were left intact with a length and width of almost five meters.

Soon the second gate greeted. The gate with a size larger than the first one was nicknamed Osakajo Tamon-yagura which was composed of large, intact and sturdy wood. Through this second gate, tourists would automatically enter palace area which had an area of ​​not less than six hectares.

In some fragments of its history, it’s told that this castle was destroyed by fire due to the Boshin War in 1868. Now the Boshin War itself has been illustrated by Tom Cruise in the preambule at the beginning of this article.

Osakajo Tamon-yagura
Osakajo which on fire…..

I arrived at southern courtyard, call it as Osaka Castle Park. This is where tourists gather and enjoy the elegance of castle made by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the leader of Japan’s Sengoku Period. I took time to take pictures with old samurai role in castle grounds. Even to got rid of loneliness, I often have fun posing behind a group of tourists who were taking pictures. Grinning horses, jumping, waving or whatever I did. Sometimes it made one of that group pointed at me while laughing after seeing their photos in their digital room. Seriously acute.

After an hour of enjoying Osaka Castle, I decided to sit down and enjoyed the Ikayaki which I bought from one of many food truck which was neatly lined up in east courtyard. A portion of Ikayaki was priced about 300 Yen. Ups, do you know Ikayaki?…. It was a large grilled squid seasoned with mirin (Japanese seasoning).

The original samurai armor is usually in black colour, right?.
A food truck in Osaka Castle.

Finishing in eating Ikayaki, or at exactly 10:30 am, I started to leave Osaka Castle area and planned to head to Naniwa City District.

Where would I step?………

Magazine, Osaka Metro and Osaka Castle

A quarter of an hour to nine….I left Kaga Hotel in Nishinari City District after leaving my backpack in reception area. I rushed to Dobutsuen-mae Station. But first, I had to stuff something into my stomach before arriving at station. Since midnight last night, when I arrived in Osaka, I haven’t eaten a bite.

I decided to look for the nearest convenience store. On the way to station, I found a FamilyMart on the edge of Saka-suji Avenue. I won’t be munching on onigiri again for breakfast. I’ve been bored since two days ago routinely chewing that food. Finally I chose a cup noodle and immediately took the queue in front of cashier. Waiting my turn, one by one, FamilyMart customers completed their payment. I only reflexively followed forward when the queue in front also advanced, but actually my eyes never looked ahead.

Cashier : “Hello”

I still didn’t budge.

Cashier: “Hello”

I still thought thar it was the turn of someone who queueing in front of me

Cashier: “Helloooo….Sir. You…..Sir”.

Me: “Oh it’s my turn, sorry” The cashier just smiled when he saw my face was red with embarrassment. Damn….She and the queue behind me were grinning in unison because they caught me staring at a corner of a shelf with many adult magazines neatly arranged. Luckily the cashier didn’t offer me to buy the magazine….I was embarrassed.

This kind of thing is common in Japan…..

After paying, I headed to a dispenser. Pour hot water into cup noodles and took a corner of that convenience store to eat it.

Cashier: “Helloooo Sir, eat outside, please!”

Ohhh….I was embarrassed, expelled out again, even though I was avoiding cold air outside. In the end, I still ate my cup noodles while standing in front of minimarket while chilling happily….My fate.

Moments later, I were eaten all my noodles until there was no gravy left. I continued to the north. Arriving at the intersection of Abiko-suji Avenue, I immediately headed underground through one of gates belonging to Dobutsuen-mae Station which is on the south bank of main road.

Me: “Hello, How can I get a One Day Pass, Sir”. I made sure not to buy it too long like what happened two days ago in Tokyo.

Security Officer: “Doko e ikitai desu ka?”, apparently this man couldn’t speak English.

Me: “Osaka Castle, Sir”.

Security Officer: “Hooooohhhh….”. He didn’t even know

Me: “Osakajo”.

That security officer then smiled nodding and ushered me through a corridor and then he pointed to an automatic vending machine.

“Arigatou Gozaimasu”, I told him. Even though if you are looking for a machine like this, I can too. Is the One Day Pass sold separately from the machine, that’s what I meant…..Hmmh.

Never mind, I started hitting that automatic vending machine button. I could smile with relief because this machine was not as complicated as the one in Tokyo. I put in a 1,000 Yen sheet, pressed the “ENGLISH” button, continued to the “CARD” button and finally I found the “ONE DAY PASS” button for 600 Yen.

That night was the first overseas New Year’s Eve for me. I purposely bought an One Day Pass because I was going home after midnight, after New Year’s Eve Countdown of course.

Now I was getting ready to take Osaka Metro. It was also my first time experiencing subways in Japan after having only tasted surface trains nine times in a row since my arrival in Tokyo.

I started at Midosuji Line and then changed to Tanimhaci Line at Tennoji Station. Drove north for five kilometers and within fifteen minutes, I finally arrived at Tanimachi 4-chome Station in Chuo City District.

I immediately exited through the exit gate where Osaka Museum of History building and the historical landmark Hoenzaka Iseki are located. From there, I continued along Uemachi-suji Avenue towards Osaka Castle which was only one kilometer away.

Osaka Museum of History.
Hoenzaka iseki, 5th Century warehouse building in Japan.
Isn’t that a maple tree?
I arrived at Otemon gate of Osaka Castle

Let’s exploring Osakajo…..

Dōtonbori Canal: Hitung Mundur Tahun Baru yang Gagal

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Hi Sir, have fun and enjoy the New Year’s Eve”, resepsionis ramah berkacamata itu berhasil menebak niatku ketika hendak meninggalkan lobby Hotel Kaga.

Hi, you know that….Hahaha….You too, Sir. See you”, aku berseloroh ringan.

See you, Sir”, resepsionis itu masih saja melempar senyum.

Aku mulai melangkah di jalanan dengan suhu sekitar mendekati nol derajat Celcius. Muka terasa beku demi mengikuti ayunan langkah menuju Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae. Untuk ketiga kalinya aku melewati Saka-suji Avenue.

Malam ini akan banyak orang mabuk di jalanan”, batinku mengingatkan logika untuk terus berhati-hati walaupun Jepang tergolong negara yang aman.

Enjoy Eco Cardku masih ampuh hingga malam itu untuk menelusuri lorong-lorong bawah tanah Kota Osaka. Kini aku sudah melaju bersama gerbong Osaka Metro Midosuji Line menuju Stasiun Namba. Aku sengaja menaruh Dōtonbori Canal sebagai destinasi terakhirku di Kota Osaka dan aku dengan cerdik menempatkannya di saat perayaan malam tahun baru.

Pasti disana bakal meriah”, batinku girang.

Gerbong kereta yang kunaiki tampak penuh. Sebagian diantaranya bukanlah wajah-wajah Jepang. Pasti mereka adalah para pelancong yang berniat sama denganku, menikmati malam pergantian tahun. Perjalananku menuju Stasiun Namba berlangsung sangat cepat karena dari Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae tak berselang satu stasiun pun menujunya. Aku tiba dalam sepuluh menit.

Keluar dari gerbang Stasiun Namba, aku berjalan kaki menelusuri Mido-suji Avenue. Terus mengarah ke utara. Perkiraanku hanya butuh waktu sepuluh menit untuk mencapai Dōtonbori Canal. Tetapi sudah dua puluh menit aku tak kunjung sampai.

Wah….Pasti aku nyasar”, mukaku mulai kecut.

Aku memberanikan diri bertanya kepada seorang polisi lalu lintas yang tampak sedang berjaga di salah satu sisi trotoar.

Sir, do you know where is this place?”, aku membuka gawai dan menunjukkan sebuah papan neon Glico bergambar lelaki berlari yang terkenal itu.

Dia tersenyum ramah dan mengangguk-angguk sambil berseloroh bersemangat “Oh…Thele….Thele”.

Thank you very much, Sir”, aku melambaikan tangan sembari melangkah meninggalkannya.

You ale welcome”, polisi itu kembali memperhatikan sekitar.

Sepuluh menit menelusuri balik jalur yang telah kutempuh tadi, aku melihat beberapa rombongan turis Eropa menuju ke salah satu arah. Aku yakin itulah tempat yang kutuju. Aku mengekor rombongan turis itu. Benar adanya, mereka juga menuju Dōtonbori Canal.

Aku di Dōtonbori Canal.
Papan neon Glico bergambar lelaki berlari.
Tengara terkenal di Osaka.

Dōtonbori Canal pukul sepuluh malam telah meriah. Badan kanal dipenuhi para turis, sementara restoran dan bar tampak penuh. Turis berduit tentu lebih memilih menunggu malam pergantian tahun dari restoran dan bar yang menawarkan udara hangat. Tetapi aku memutuskan menunggunya di tepian kanal, berkeliling kesana kemari, berusaha menikmati suasana walaupun terdistraksi dengan udara beku Osaka.

Satu jam berlalu ketika aku menyusuri setiap sisi di tepian kanal, kemudian aku berdiri mengambil tempat di bawah jembatan, bermaksud menemukan udara hangat . Tapi percuma, udara sudah turun di bawah nol derajat Celcius. Ketika aku tak sanggup menghadapi udara beku itu, aku bergegas menuju ke kedai penjual Takoyaki. Aku sengaja mengantri , menunggu pesanan, dan memakannya berlama-lama di depan kedai itu untuk mendapatkan paparan hawa hangat yang tersembur dari tungku kedai.

Nempel-nempel kompor mencari kehangatan.

Hampir setengah jam aku memanfaatkan situasi itu untuk memanipulasi suhu dingin. Hingga akhirnya aku mengusir diri karena antrian pembeli mulai ramai. Aku kembali ke kanal setengah jam sebelum hitung mundur tahun baru.

Ketika berjibaku kembali melawan dingin pada sebuah sisi kanal, aku mendengar sayup bahasa dan logat yang sangat kukenal.

Ngenteni kene wae cah, ra sah adoh adoh”, seloroh itu samar terdengar.

Aku menoleh ke belakang, empat pria dan dua diantaranya berambut gondrong sedang duduk di sisi kanal, memegang sebotol besar minuman beralkohol. Itu memang cara efektif melawan dingin. Aku jadi teringat dengan minuman beralkohol yang kumiliki karena salah beli di Narita International Airpot sehari lalu. Tapi aku belum menyerah, aku tak akan menenggaknya.

Aku terus menahan dingin yang semakin menjadi. Kedua tanganku mulai kebas. Tapi aku berusaha tetap tenang. Hingga akhirnya lima menit sebelum countdown tiba. Para turis mulai tumpah ruah ke sepanjang sisi kanal, restoran dan bar ditinggalkan. Semua berharap akan ada pertunjukan kembang api yang elegan. Hingga saatnya tiba, hitungan itu benar-benar dimulai.

Tennnn….Nineeee….Eightttt….”, hitungan semakin kencang

Threeee…..Twoooo….Oneeee…..Happyyyy Newwww Yeearrrr”, tapi semua sontak terdiam dalam tiga detik.

Suasana Dotonbori Canal tetap lengang, tak ada yang istimewa. Hingga lima belas menit kemudian tetap sama, lengang.

Ah, gagal total”, aku mulai kesal.

Turis lain pun mulai mengeluh.  Tak akan ada pertunjukan kembang api. Hingga akhirnya sepuluh pemuda Jepang berinisiatif mengakuisisi suasana dengan menaiki pagar jembatan. Mereka melepas pakaian dan menyisakan celana dalam dalam kondisi suhu yang sangat dingin.  Kemudian salah satu mereka mulai berteriak.

Threeee….Twoooo….Oneeee”, sambil melompat meliuk bak atlet lompat indah dengan kepala menghujam ke air terlebih dahulu.

Byurrrr….

Kemudian tingkah yang sama mulai dilakukan oleh temannya yang sudah bersiap dan berdiri di atas pagar jembatan. Berhitung dalam tiga hitungan mundur, meluncurlah dia ke dalam air. Dan pertunjukan itu terhenti hingga orang ke sepuluh. Setidaknya apa yang mereka lakukan bisa mengobati rasa kecewa seluruh pengunjung Dōtonbori Canal.

Pertunjukan loncat indah telah usai.

Menjelang pukul satu dini hari. Udara yang awalnya terasa lebih hangat karena kerumunan ratusan pengunjung akhirnya lindap. Suhu mendingin kembali dengan cepat karena para pengunjung mulai meninggalkan Dōtonbori Canal. Aku mulai pergi dari tempat itu menuju Stasiun Namba.

Beberapa menit kemudian, Osaka Metro mengantarkanku kembali ke Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae. Beruntung sekali Enjoy Eco Cardku (One Day Pass) masih berlaku walau sudah melewati batas masa pakai yaitu pukul 00:00. Mungkin ini menjadi bonus dari Osaka Metro untuk perayaan tahun baru.

Sampai Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae, lalu aku meninggalkannya dengan langkah cepat. Saka-suji Avenue sudah lengang, bahkan perjalananku diwarnai dengan insiden pengemudi mabuk yang menghentikan mobilnya di tengah jalanan hingga beberapa orang berusaha mendorongnya ke tepian. Di sebuah persimpangan aku berbelok bersamaan dengan selorohan “Helloooo….Happyyyy Newwww Yearrrr, Sirrrr”, orang itu mengendarai sepeda dengan tangan kanan menggenggam sebotol minuman beralkohol.

Happy New Year, Sir”, aku membalasnya untuk menunjukkan keramahan.

Hingga akhirnya langkahku tiba di Hotel Kaga. Aku merasa lega karena aku pulang dengan selamat tanpa kurang satu apapun. Resepsionis itu masih saja setia dengan tugasnya, menunggui mejanya dengan disiplin.

Are you happy, Sir?….Good luck for you in the new year”, dia tersenyum menyambutku.

Sure, Sir…I hope so for you”, aku membalasnya. “It’s time to sleep”.

Yeaa….Heve a good sleep, Sir

Aku meninggalkannya menuju ke lift, lift itu mengantarkanku hingga ke lantai tiga. Aku gontai melangkah menuju kamar. Memasuki kamar, melepas sepatu boots, menarik kasur lipat, dan tanpa mandi, aku langsung menghempaskan badan dan dengan cepat aku terlelap.

Sementara botol minuman beralkohol yang telah tertenggak satu teguk secara tak sengaja dua hari lalu itu berdiri anggun di meja kecil kamar. Yess, aku tak menyentuhnya saat malam tahun baru. Artinya, petualangan botol minuman beralkohol itu tamat dini hari itu. Karena menjelang siang nanti aku akan pergi meninggalkan Osaka dan menuju Busan.

Korea Selatan, Aku datang!

Channel No 63 Hotel Kaga

<—-Kisah Sebelumya

Malam nanti adalah malam tahun baru. Ini pertama kalinya aku akan menikmati pergantian tahun di luar negeri, Osaka tepatnya. Tak pelak aku telah meniatkan untuk menikmati bagaimana meriahnya malam Osaka saat New Year’s Eve Countdown.

Tapi ini baru pukul 17:00 ketika aku menyudahi menu makan siang yang sangat terlambat.  Aku meninggalkan restoran rumahan yang berdiri pada sebuah gang di Amerikamura, setelah menikmati sajian chicken ramennya.

Kini aku punya satu niatan yang harus kutunaikan….Yupz, TIDUR.

Aku tak bisa menyembunyikan lunglai badan setelah semalaman hanya tertidur di Kansai International Airport selama empat jam. Aku sendiri tak mau menghadiri hitung mundur Tahun Baru dalam keadaan tak segar nanti malam.

Sampai jumpa Amerikamura”,  batinku berseloroh ketika menapak keluar dari sebuah gang dan mulai menyisir Mido-suji Avenue menuju Stasiun Shinsaibashi. Hampir setengah enam sore ketika aku mulai menaiki gerbong Osaka Metro menuju Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae melalui Midosuji Line.

Dari Stasiun Dobutsuen-mae, aku melanjutkan dengan berjalan kaki menyusuri Saka-suji Avenue untuk mencapai penginapan. Aku perlahan memasuki daerah Haginochaya dan tak lama kemudian tiba di Hotel Kaga.

Hello, Mr. Donny. So afternoon you arrive”, resepsionis laki-laki berkacamata itu menyapaku ringan lalu berdiri dari kursinya dan sigap mengambil backpack biruku.

Yes, Sir. Osaka is very interesting, so I will regret it if I come back to hotel too early”, aku menangkap backpack yang dia sodorkan.

I think I should sleep to prepare myself for New Year’s Eve tonight”

Yes, that’s a great idea, Sir”.

Aku meminta izin untuk segera memasuki kamar setelah dia memberikan kunci. Aku sudah membayar biaya penginapan tadi pagi saat menitipkan backpack. Kuayunkan langkah dengan cepat mengejar lift yang pintunya sudah terbuka karena ada orang yang menggunakannya, kemudian meluncur ke lantai tiga. Begitu tiba di kamar, aku segera menggantung winter jacket, melepas sepatu boots, menurunkan backpack, menarik kasur lipat dan menghempaskan tubuh ke atas kasur.

Kamar tunggal yang kupesan sebulan sebelum keberangkatan.
Kamar seharga 1.800 Yen (Rp. 256.000) per malam.

Zzzzz……..Zzzzz…..Zzzzz….Dengan cepat aku terlelap saking lelah badan dan mengantuknya mata.

Lewat sedikit dari jam setengah sembilan malam ketika aku otomatis terbangun. Seperti itulah aku, jika ada niatan bangun pada jam tertentu maka tanpa menyalakan alarm pun maka aku akan terbangun dengan sendirinya pada jam yang dimaksud. Jarang sekali meleset, mungkin ini sisa kebiasaanku di waktu kecil ketika sering bangun jauh sebelum shubuh untuk belajar. #sokdisiplin

Aku masih merasa malas untuk beranjak dari kasur dan terus ternyamankan dengan hangat ruang kamar. Terus membayangkan begitu tak nyamannya jika bepergian di luar sana yang suhunya hampir menginjak nol derajat Celcius. Kusambar remote TV di sampingku, aku baru sadar kalau sebelum tidur tadi aku telah menyalakan TV. Praktis TV lah yang menontonku di saat tidur, bukan aku yang menontonnya.

Mau nonton acara TV Jepang….Waspadalah….Waspadalah!

Tentu aku tak tahu apa yang diperbincangkan pada setiap acara Televisi Jepang. Yang kutahu itu hanya reality show tentang percintaan, kuis berhadiah atau menebak-nebak beberapa kasus dan kejadian dalam acara berita malam. Aku terus menjelajah lebih jauh hingga ke channel bernomor di atas 40. Beberapa  acara olahraga serta flora dan fauna mulai hadir. Kini channel menginjak angka 60. Aku terus menjelajah….

61….62….

Tiba-tiba aku terperanjat ketika memasuki CHANNEL NO. 63. Bagaimana tidak, itu adalah channel film dewasa tanpa sensor. Wuannnjiiirrrr, apalagi ini…..Aku mencoba untuk melewatkannya saja, berpindah ke channel berikutnya. Belum juga lama berpindah, entah kenapa tangan ini selalu penasaran memencet pintas ke CHANNEL NO. 63, lalu mencoba melawan berpindah ke channel lain lagi. Geblek….Kemudian berpindah lagi ke CHANNEL NO. 63…..Pertempuran “Hitam-Putih” tampak sengit di benakku. Hingga akhirnya tak terasa waktu sudah menunjukkan pukul sembilan.

Sudah saatnya aku pergi ke perayaan Tahun Baru bersama warga Osaka dan turis lainnya di luar sana. Aku telah membaca pengumuman di banyak stasiun siang tadi bahwa jam operasional Osaka Metro akan diperpanjang hingga lewat dini hari. Itu berita yang menggembirakan dan membuatku tak perlu membobol kantong untuk mencari taksi saat pulang nanti.

Kupakai kembali sepatu boots dan kukenakan kedua jaketku untuk melawan dingin. Masih ingat ketika aku tak sengaja menenggak alkohol di Narita International Airport?. Yups, minuman beralkohol itu masih ada dan hanya berkurang satu tenggakan saja kala itu. Aku memasukkan ke kantong winter jacket dan kufungsikan sebagai langkah antisipasi. Aku harus bersiap apabila suhu diluar nanti menjadi terlalu ekstrim di tengah malam….WHO KNOWS?….Tapi mudah-mudahan saja aku tak perlu menenggaknya lagi hingga petualangan di Osaka berakhir.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Uang Koin di Amerikamura

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Dari Stasiun Namba aku menaiki Osaka Metro di arus Midosuji Line, tak berselang satu stasiun pun, aku turun di Stasiun Shinsaibashi. Kemudian mulai mengambil langkah ke selatan menelusuri Mido-suji Avenue. Mido-suji Avenue sendiri berupa jalanan empat ruas yang diapit oleh jalur lambat di kiri-kanannya. Jalur lambat dan jalur cepatnya dibatasi oleh jajaran pepohonan rindang yang tertata rapi mengikuti kontur jalan.

Dalam tiga ratus meter ke depan, aku akan sampai di Amerikamura. Jaraknya yang cukup dekat dari Namba Parks membuatku tertarik untuk sekalian menyambangi tempat itu.

Amerikamura atau khalayak sana menyebutnya Amemura adalah perkampungan yang didesain ala Amerika sepanjang sembilan blok dan terletak persis di sisi timur Mido-suji Avenue, di Distrik Kota Chūō-ku tepatnya. Sebelah selatan perkampungan ini dibatasi oleh Dōtonbori Canal, sebelah utara dibatasi oleh Nagahori-dori Avenue sedangkan sebelah timur dibatasi oleh jalur Osaka Metro Yotsubashi Line. Amerikamura menempati lahan tak kurang dari enam belas hektar. Luas bukan?

Di depan New American Plaza.

Mengadopsi lifestyle bangsa Amerika, maka daerah ini sangat kental dengan brand Paman Sam. Memasuki sebuah gang, langkahku disambut oleh gerai Starbucks lalu gerai McDonald’s meyusul setelahnya. Toko-toko fashion dengan logo Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein dan brand ternama lainnya sangat mudah ditemukan.

Gang di kawasan Amerikamura memiliki lebar tak lebih dari lima meter. Jalurnya yang sempit membuat arusnya dibuat satu arah. Tiang lampu jalan didesain bak karakter hidup yang ceking dan tinggi. Seni mural juga mudah ditemukan di setiap sisi Amerikamura. Sepanjang tepi trotoar dipasang bollard untuk melindungi pejalan kaki. Sedangkan persewaan sepeda bertebaran di berbagai titik.

Sepanjang kaki melangkah, Amerikamura memang didesain sebagai tempat berbelanja.  Toko fashion berjajar sangat rapat menjejali setiap sisi jalan berpadu dengan bar, minimarket, restoran dan tentunya penginapan.

Hampir satu jam berkeliling ke setiap sudut Amerikamura, aku mulai merasa lapar. Aroma menggoda makanan khas Asia Timur konsisten mencemari jalanan. Aku memutuskan untuk mulai mencari tempat makan. Beruntungnya, kebanyakan restoran di Amerikamura menampilkan harga menu andalannya di depan pintu. Jadi setiap pengunjung bisa memilih makanan yang sesuai dengan minatnya. Kalau aku, bukan perihal menu, aku menilik setiap menu yang terpampang hanya untuk melihat berapa harga terendahnya. Lama sekali mencari restoran untuk mendapatkan harga yang bersahabat dengan kantong.

Langkahku akhirnya terhenti pada sebuah restoran rumahan yang menawarkan menu hemat. Restoran ini dikelola oleh si empunya rumah dibantu oleh anak laki-lakinya yang tampak masih bersekolah dasar.

Aku duduk di bangku pojok berselang satu meja dengan perempuan kantoran berusia muda yang tampak bersemangat menyantap sajian mie di depannya. Aku memesan chicken ramen dan seperti biasa untuk minum, aku mengandalkan air putih yang disediakan dalam teko di setiap meja restoran. Dalam duduk, aku memperhatikan kelincahan anak itu dalam mengantarkan pesanan setelah bapaknya selesai mengolah menunya.

Tak lama setelah memesan, chicken ramenku pun datang. Aku menyantapnya sambil membunyikan serutupan mie di mangkok, tentu aku ingin menghormati dan menunjukkan bahwa chicken ramen si empunya restoran begitu nikmat. Chicken ramen itu habis tak kurang dari lima belas menit.

Nyammm….

Kini aku menampilkan kekonyolan berikutnya. Aku sengaja  membayar dengan uang koin. Karena  aku memang memiliki banyak uang koin yang terkumpul sedari petualanganku di Tokyo. Ketika si anak memberikan bill di nampan kecil, aku menumpahkan koin senilai 600 Yen (Rp. 81.000) di nampan itu. Si anak terlihat kerepotan dan gugup menghitungnya. Aku hanya tersenyum geli melihatnya ketika dia harus mengulang-ulang dalam menghitung koin itu. Perempuan kantoran di sebelah bangku pun tampak tertawa menutup mulut dengan tangannya.

Merasa menyerah menghitungnya, si anak melarikan nampan itu ke meja kasir dan menyerahkan kepada bapaknya untuk menghitung. Setelah selesai menghitung, si Bapak menuliskan sesuatu pada kertas bill dan si anak kembali menujuku. Oh, si Bapak menuliskan bahwa aku membayar kurang 12 Yen. Aku menggenapi kekurangan itu dan si anak tersenyum lebar menatapku. Aku membalas senyumnya dan mulai berkemas untuk meninggalkan restoran.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Bulu Angsa di Namba Parks

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Meninggalkan Osaka Castle melalui Uemachi-suji Avenue , aku menuju Stasiun Tanimachi 4-chome. Melewati deretan pohon red-maple yang tertanam di setiap sisi jalan, kemudian menuju pintu masuk stasiun yang terletak di kaki-kaki perkasa Osaka Museum of History.

Enjoy Eco Card (nama lain One Day Pass di Osaka) seharga 600 Yen (Rp. 82.000) membuatku nyaman dan mudah untuk keluar masuk stasiun tanpa harus hinggap di automatic vending machine ketika ingin menggunakan jasa Osaka Metro. Aku tinggal men-tap kartu itu di ticket collecting gate dan menikmati berkeliling Osaka sesuka hati.

Enjoy Eco Card.

Menaiki Tanimachi Line dan berpindah ke Sennichimae Line di Stasiun Tanimachi 9-chome maka perjalananku berhenti di Stasiun Namba setelah menempuh jarak tiga kilometer dan dalam waktu tempuh lima belas menit.

Tiba di Stasiun Namba yang berusia delapan puluh lima tahun, aku keluar menuju ke Namba City. Namba City merupakan pusat perbelanjaan yang sangat luas di daerah itu.

Menelusuri koridor demi koridor megah di Namba City membuatku tertarik untuk mampir dan melihat beberapa koleksi winter jacket milik UNIQLO store di salah satu sisi koridor megah. Kejadian menggelitik kembali menimpaku di sini. Ini akibat dari winter jacket murahan yang kukenakan. Winter jacket bekas keluaran Pasar Baru itu merontokkan bulu-bulu angsa lembut dari sisi bagian dalam ketika aku mencoba sebuah winter jacket milik UNIQLO di kamar pas. Sontak, setelah aku keluar dari kamar pas itu, seorang petugas wanita mengambil sapu dan pengki untuk membersihkan bulu-bulu itu. Dia cuma tersenyum menatapku yang sedang meletakkan winter jacket ke tempat display semula. Padahal aku sudah berfikir tak akan mampu membelinya, tetap masih tetap saja nekat mencobanya….Dasar sok gaya. Bagaimana aku tak berpikir seribu kali untuk membelinya jika sepotong winter jacket di banderol dengan harga 12.900 Yen (Rp. 1.750.000).

Untuk melupakan insiden memalukan itu, aku bergegas meninggalka store itu dan bergegas menuju ke Namba Parks. Kali ini aku mulai terkagum karena akses menuju ke Namba Parks membuatku tetap berada di jalur indoor pejalan kaki, padahal Namba City dan Namba Parks berada dilokasi yang berbeda. Indoor corridor itu terus menuju ke selatan dan terkoneksi langsung dengan Namba Parks.

Setelah berjalan tak sampai dua ratus meter dari exit gate Stasiun Namba, akhirya aku tiba juga di Namba Parks. Taman keren itu didesain di bagian atas pusat perbelanjaan dengan kontur yang dibuat berundak-undak bak terasering. Seharusnya aku mengunjungi taman ini saat malam karena terlihat banyak lampu terpasang yang pastinya akan menyala di malam hari.

Salah satu sisi Namba Parks, taman di atas mall.

Namba Parks sendiri juga terintegrasi dengan kompleks perbelanjaan dan perkantoran yang terletak di Distrik Kota Naniwa. Di taman itu, aku hanya menyempatkan tiga puluh menit saja karena aku ingin segera mengunjungi Amerikamura untuk melihat area belanja dan hiburan dengan sudut pandang yang berbeda.

Waktu sudah menunjukkan jam setengah dua siang, aku mulai meninggalkan Namba Parks melalui jalur semula saat aku mendatangi Namba Parks.

Kisah Selanjutnya—->