Dōtonbori Canal: Failed New Year’s Countdown

“Hi Sir, have fun and enjoy the New Year’s Eve”, the friendly receptionist with glasses managed to guess my intentions when I was about to leave the lobby of Hotel Kaga.

“Hi, you know that….Hahaha….You too, Sir. See you”, I lightly joked.

“See you, Sir”, the receptionist was still smiling.

I started walking on street with the ambient temperature near zero degrees Celsius. My face froze as I followed my swing of steps towards Dobutsuen-mae Station. For the third time I passed Saka-suji Avenue.

“Tonight there will be a lot of drunk people on the streets”, I thought reminding my logic to continue to be careful even though Japan is a safe country.

My Enjoy Eco Card was still effective until that night to explore underground alleys of Osaka City. Now I was driving with Osaka Metro Midosuji Line carriage to Namba Station. I purposely put Dōtonbori Canal as my last destination in Osaka City and I cleverly placed it during New Year’s Eve celebrations.

“Surely there will be lively”, I excitedly thought.

The train I was in was full. Some of them were not Japanese faces. Surely they were travelers who intended a same thing as me, enjoying New Year’s Eve. My journey to Namba Station went very quickly because from Dobutsuen-mae Station there wasn’t a single station which I passed. I would be there in ten minutes.

Exiting the gates of Namba Station, I walked along Mido-suji Avenue. Keep heading north. My estimate was that it would only take ten minutes to reach Dōtonbori Canal. But it was been twenty minutes I still haven’t arrived.

“Wow …. I must have strayed”, my face began to wry.

I ventured to ask a traffic policeman who seemed to be on guard on a side of sidewalk.

“Sir, do you know where is this place?”, I opened my phone and showed a neon Glico board with a picture of famous running man.

He kindly smiled and nodded while joking excitedly “Oh…There….There”.

“Thank you very much, Sir”, I waved as I walked away from him.

“You ale welcome”, the policeman looked around again.

Ten minutes of retracing the path I had taken earlier, I saw several groups of European tourists heading in a direction. I was sure that was where I was headed. I followed that group of tourists. Sure enough, they were also headed for Dōtonbori Canal.

I was at Dōtonbori Canal.
Glico neon sign with a running man.
Famous landmark in Osaka.

The Dōtonbori Canal at ten o’clock was already lively. The body of canal was filled with tourists, while restaurants and bars seemed to be full. Rich tourists would prefer to wait for New Year’s Eve from restaurants and bars which offer warm air. But I decided to wait for it at the bank of canal, wandering around here and there, trying to enjoy the atmosphere even though I was distracted by freezing air of Osaka.

An hour passed as I walked along each side of canal, then I took my place under the bridge, hoping to find some warm air. But in vain, the air had fallen below zero degrees Celsius. When I couldn’t stand the freezing air, I rushed to a Takoyaki stall. I deliberately queued, waited for order, and ate it for a long time in front of stall to get exposure to warm air which gushed from stall’s stove.

Clinging to the stove for warmth.

Almost half an hour I took advantage of that situation to manipulate cold temperature. Until finally I kicked myself out because the queue of buyers started to get crowded. I returned to the canal half an hour before New Year’s countdown.

As I struggled back against the cold on a side of the canal, I heard faintly familiar language and accents.

“Ngenteni kene wae cah, ra sah adoh adoh (just waiting here, bro, not too far)” a fainty setence was heard, it was Javanese Language.

I looked back, four men and two of them with long hair were sitting on the side of canal, holding a large bottle of alcohol. It was indeed an effective way of fighting the cold. It reminded me of a alcoholic drink I had because I bought the wrong one at Narita International Airpot on other day. But I haven’t given up, I won’t drink it.

I continued to endure the growing cold. My hands started to go numb. But I tried to stay calm. Until finally five minutes before the countdown arrived. Tourists began pouring in along the sides of canal, restaurants and bars abandoned. Everyone hoped there would be an elegant fireworks display. Until the time came, the count really began.

“Tennnn….Nineeee….Eightttt….”, the count was getting louder

“Threeee…..Twoooo….Oneeee…..Happyyyy Newwww Yeearrrr”, but everyone felt silent for three seconds.

The atmosphere of Dotonbori Canal remain quiet, nothing special. Fifteen minutes later it was still the same, quiet.

“Ah, failed miserably”, I was getting annoyed.

Other tourists began too complain. There would be no fireworks display. Until finally ten young Japanese took the initiative to acquire the atmosphere by climbing bridge railing. They took off their clothes and left their underwear in freezing cold. Then one of them started screaming.

“Threeee….Twoooo….Oneeee”, while swerving jumping like a beautiful jumper with their head plunged into the water first.

“Byurrrrr…”

Then the same behavior began to be carried out by their friend who was ready and standing on bridge railing. Counting to three countdowns, his turn jumped into the water. And the show stopped until the tenth person. At least what they did could cure the disappointment of all visitors to Dōtonbori Canal.

The diving show was over.

By one o’clock in the morning. The air which initially felt warmer because of the crowd of hundreds of visitors was finally disbanded. The temperature quickly cooled back as visitors began to leave the Dōtonbori Canal. I started going from that place towards Namba Station.

A few minutes later, Osaka Metro took me back to Dobutsuen-mae Station. I was very lucky that my Enjoy Eco Card (One Day Pass) was still valid even though it had passed the expiration date, which was 00:00 am. Maybe this would be a bonus from Osaka Metro for New Year celebration.

Until Dobutsuen-mae Station, then I left it at a brisk pace. Saka-suji Avenue was deserted, even my steps was marked by an incident of a drunk driver who stopped his car in the middle of road until several people tried to push him to side. At an intersection I turned along with hearing  a greeting“Helloooo….Happyyyy Newwww Yearrrr, Sirrrr”, a man was riding a bicycle with his right hand holding a bottle of alcoholic drink.

“Happy New Year, sir”, I replied to show friendliness.

Until finally my steps arrived at Hotel Kaga. I felt relieved that I came in hotel safely without less anything. The receptionist was still faithful to his duties, waiting for his desk with discipline.

“Are you happy, Sir?….Good luck for you in the new year”, he smiled at me.

“Sure, Sir…I hope so for you”, I replied. “It’s time to sleep”.

“Yeah….Heve a good sleep, Sir”

I left him for the lift, it took me to third floor. I unsteadily stepped into room. Entering the room, taking off my boots, pulling up the folding bed, and without taking a shower, I immediately threw myself down and quickly fell asleep.

Meanwhile, the bottle of alcoholic drink which had been swallowed by accident two days ago was gracefully standing on a small table in my room. Yess, I didn’t touch it on New Year’s Eve. That means, the alcoholic beverage bottle adventure ended early that morning. Because by noon I would leave Osaka and heading to Busan.

South Korea, I was coming!

Coins in America-mura

From Namba Station I took Osaka Metro on Midosuji Line, not a single station which I passed, I got off at Shinsaibashi Station. Then started to taking steps south down Mido-suji Avenue. Mido-suji Avenue itself is a four-lane street flanked by slow lanes on either side. The slow lane and the fast lane are limited by rows of shady trees which are neatly arranged following the contours of road.

In the next three hundred meters, I would be at America-mura. Its close enough distance from Namba Parks made me interested in visiting the place at same time.

America-mura or as people call it Amemura is a nine-block American-designed village located right on the east side of Mido-suji Avenue, in Chūō-ku City District to be exact. The village is bounded in south by Dōtonbori Canal, to the north by Nagahori-dori Avenue while to the east by Osaka Metro Yotsubashi Line. America-mura occupies a land area of ​​no less than sixteen hectares. Wide isn’t it?

In front of New American Plaza.

Adopting American lifestyle, this area is very thick with the “Uncle Sam” brand. Entering an alley, my steps were greeted by a Starbucks outlet and a McDonald’s outlet following after. Fashion shops with Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein logos and other well-known brands were very easy to find.

The alley in America-mura area is no more than five meters wide. Narrow path makes it be a one-way street. Street light pole is designed like a skinny and tall living character. Mural art is also easy to find on every side of America-mura. Along the edge of sidewalk installed bollards to protect pedestrians. Meanwhile, bicycle rentals are scattered at various points.

As long as you walk, America-mura is indeed designed as a place to shop. Fashion shops lined up very tightly cramming every side of road combined with bars, minimarkets, restaurants and of course lodging.

After almost an hour exploring every corner of Americamura, I was starting to feel hungry. The tantalizing aroma of East Asian food consistently scented the streets. I decided to start looking for a place to eat. Luckily, most restaurants in America-ura display their flagship menu prices at their doorstep. So each visitor can choose food according to their interests. As for me, it wasn’t about menu, I looked at each menu on display just to see what the lowest price was. It took a long time to find a restaurant to get pocket-friendly prices.

My steps finally stopped at a home-based restaurant which offering a frugal menu. This restaurant was managed by house owner and assisted by his son who seemed to be still in elementary school.

I sat on a corner seat opposite a table with a young office woman who seemed eager to eat noodle dish in front of her. I ordered chicken ramen and as usual for drinking, I relied on water provided in the teapot at every restaurant table. While sitting, I noticed the child’s agility in delivering orders after his father finished processing the menu.

Shortly after ordering, my chicken ramen came. I ate it while cracking a slurp of noodles in the bowl, of course I wanted to respect and showed that the restaurant owner’s chicken ramen was so delicious. The chicken ramen was gone in no less than fifteen minutes.

Nyammm….

Now I presented the next silence. I purposely paid with coins. Because I have a lot of coins accumulated from my adventures in Tokyo. When the boy handed a bill on small tray, I spilled a coin worth 600 Yen on the tray. The boy looked troubled and nervous to counting it. I just smiled amused to see him when he had to repeat in counting coins. The office woman next to my seat was laughing, covering her mouth with her hand.

Feeling given up in counting, he ran the tray over to counter and handed it to his father to counting. After finishing counting, his father wrote something on bill paper and his boy came back to me. Oh, his father wrote that I paid less than 12 Yen. I made up for it and the boy broadly smiled at me. I smiled back at him and started packing to leave the restaurant.

Goose Feather at Namba Parks

Leaving Osaka Castle via Uemachi-suji Avenue , I headed for Tanimachi 4-chome Station. Passing rows of red-maple trees planted on each side of road, then head to station entrance which was located at the feet of mighty Osaka Museum of History.

“Enjoy Eco Card” (another name for One Day Pass in Osaka) for 600 Yen made ut comfortable and easy to got in and out of station without having to hunt a ticket at automatic vending machine when you wanted to use the services of Osaka Metro. I just tap the card at ticket collecting gate and enjoyed traveling around Osaka as I please.

Enjoy Eco Card.

Taking Tanimachi Line and changing to Sennichimae Line at Tanimachi 9-chome Station, my journey stopped at Namba Station after traveling three kilometers and in fifteen minutes.

Arriving at the eighty-five year old Namba Station, I exited towards Namba City. Namba City is a very large shopping center in this area.

Stepping in corridor after corridor in Namba City made me interested to stop by and saw some of UNIQLO store’s winter jacket collections in a side of magnificent corridor. An interesting funny story happened to me again here. This was the result of my cheap winter jacket I was wearing. This second-hand winter jacket from Pasar Baru (a market in my town) sheded soft goose down from its inside when I tried on a UNIQLO winter jacket in dressing room. Suddenly, after I came out from fitting room, a female attendant took a broom and dustpan to clean that goose. She just smiled at me when was putting the winter jacket back into display case. Even though, I thought I wouldn’t be able to afford it, I was still determined to try it. How could I not think a thousand times to buy it if a winter jacket was priced at 12,900 Yen.

To forgot about that embarrassing incident, I hurriedly left the store and rushed to Namba Parks. This time I started to be amazed because the access to Namba Parks kept me on indoor pedestrian path, even though Namba City and Namba Parks were in different locations. The indoor corridor continued to south and was directly connected to Namba Parks.

After walking less than two hundred meters from the exit gate of Namba Station, I finally arrived at Namba Parks. The cool garden was designed at the top of shopping center with a contour made of steps like a terrace. I should have visited this park at night because there were a lot of lights installed which would definitely light up at night.

A side of Namba Parks, the park above the mall.

Namba Parks itself is also integrated with a shopping and office complex located in Naniwa City District. In the park, I only took thirty minutes because I wanted to visit Americamura soon to see the shopping and entertainment area from a different perspective.

It was already half past two in the afternoon, I started to leave Namba Parks via original route when I came to Namba Parks.

Go to Shin-Imamiya Station from Kansai Airport Station

I already have a ticket worth 1,060 Yen to go to Shin-Imamiya Station in Naniwa City District. Meanwhile, time continued to move away from the dawn. I was still standing on one of platforms, waiting for JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service train to arrive. On another platform, a train with a futuristic design was parked waiting for its scheduled departure.

Haruka Express Train bound for Kyoto. It costs 3,400 Yen one way. Interested?….

Not long after, the conventional model train slowly but surely slowed down entering platform from northeast side. Within seconds, the metal wheels squeaked against steel track and came to a complete stop in front of me. An officer immediately docked at the front of the carriage and stood watching towards the rear end of train. After all passengers got out, he waved at me and directed me to enter the train. Maybe he had been observing me as a foreigner who lookedhj a little different from most passengers.

I was going to go up…. It was cheap.

I entered the first carriage and took a single left seat near the door. Fifteen minutes to go to seven in the morning, when JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service started speeding away from Kansai Airport Station. Heading north towards downtown.

Not long after the train was running, the first spectacular view appeared from carriage window. The vast expanse of Osaka Bay decorated with a tinge of dawn became a beautiful charm to welcome my first morning in Osaka Prefecture.

After four kilometers, the train crossed a steel bridge which straddled the bay. Then passed under a flyover which stretched along the beach in Rinku Town area. The combination of the calmness of bay, the tinge of dawn, the situation of half-dark streets and city lights which have not been reluctant to go out, beautify the rhythm of my morning journey.

Rinku Town area.

The sight paused for a moment at Rinku Town Station. The train had to drop off and picked up some passengers.

Leaving Rinku Town Station, the train continued on Nankai-Kuko Line. The Nankai-Kuko Line itself is a train line which starts from Kansai Airport Station in the south and ends at Namba Station in the north with a total length of nearly fifty kilometers.

Far away from Rinku Town, this time the scenery changed to a stretch of farmland located around Izumisano Town. The agricultural lands were combined with several small landing house complexes owned by residents. At some point, several medium-sized apartments began to appear. Meanwhile, dry rivers looked neat with guardrails at its edges.

Expanse of agricultural land and housing.

Within thirty minutes, the train began to enter the densely built urban area, in Nishi City District to be exact. There was no more agricultural land there. The view only contained housing, apartments, offices as well as health and shopping centers.

This time I myself would not complete the trip until the last stop point, namely Namba Station. I would stop at Shin-Imamiya Station, one station away before arriving at Namba Station.

I got off at Shin-Imamiya Station at fifty minutes of JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service train ride. I immediately left Shin-Imamiya Station on Abiko-suji Avenue. Then turned right, headed south down an five meters wide alley. After walking for three hundred meters I arrived at Hotel Kaga.

Along the way to Hotel Kaga, I walked with great confidence without needing to ask anyone about hotel location because I really understood route to get there from the map I brought.

I entered Kaga Hotel which was predominantly brick red in color. Greeted by a friendly male receptionist. But it was still too early to be able to check-in. I really only meant to leave my backpack and immediately explore Osaka until evening.

But to speed up the check-in process later, I decided to pay in advance. After receiving a receipt and placing my backpack in reception area, I finally left the hotel which costed for 1,800 Yen per night and headed straight for Osaka Castle.

Menuju Shin-Imamiya Station dari Kansai Airport Station

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Aku sudah menggenggam tiket senilai 1.060 Yen (Rp. 145.000) untuk menuju Stasiun Shin-Imamiya di Distrik Kota Naniwa. Sementara, waktu terus bergerak meninggalkan fajar. Aku masih berdiri di salah satu peron, menunggu kedatangan kereta JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service. Di peron lain terlihat sebuah kereta dengan design futuristik sudah terparkir menunggu jadwal keberangkatan.

Haruka Express Train menuju Kyoto. Harganya 3.400 Yen (Rp. 463.000) sekali jalan. Berminat?….

Tak lama kemudian, kereta bermodel konvensional perlahan tapi pasti melambatkan laju memasuki peron dari sisi timur laut. Dalam sekian detik, roda besinya mendecit mencengkeram jalur baja dan berhenti sempurna di depanku. Seorang petugas segera merapat di bagian gerbong terdepan dan berdiri mengawasi ke arah ujung belakang kereta. Setelah semua penumpang keluar, petugas itu melambaikan tangan kepadaku dan mengarahkanku untuk memasuki kereta. Mungkin sedari tadi dia mengamatiku sebagai orang asing yang berpenampilan sedikit berbeda dengan penumpang kebanyakan.

Aku mah naik yang begituan aja….Murah.

Aku memasuki gerbong pertama dan mengambil bangku tunggal sebelah kiri di dekat pintu. Lima belas menit lagi menuju pukul tujuh pagi, ketika JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service mulai melaju meninggalkan Stasiun Kansai Airport. Merangsek ke utara menuju pusat kota.

Tak lama kereta berjalan, pemandangan spektakuler pertama tertayang dari jendela gerbong. Hamparan luas Teluk Osaka berhiaskan semburat fajar menjadi pesona apik menyambut pagi pertamaku di Prefektur Osaka.

Genap empat kilometer, kereta melintas di jembatan baja yang mengangkangi teluk itu. Kemudian melintas di kolong-kolong flyover yang membentang di sepanjang pantai di Kawasan Rinku Town. Paduan tenangnya teluk, semburat fajar, aroma setengah gelap jalanan dan lampu-lampu kota yang belum enggan padam begitu memperindah irama perjalanan pagi itu.

Kawasan Rinku Town.

Pemandangan itu berhenti sejenak di Stasiun Rinku Town. Kereta harus menurunkan dan mengambil beberapa penumpang.

Meninggalkan Stasiun Rinku Town, kereta terus menjelajahi Nankai-Kuko Line. Nankai-Kuko Line sendiri adalah jalur kereta yang berawal dari Stasiun Kansai Airport di selatan dan akan berakhir di Stasiun Namba di utara dengan panjang keseluruhan hampir lima puluh kilometer.

Jauh meninggalkan Rinku Town, kali ini pemandangan berganti dengan hamparan lahan pertanian yang berlokasi di sekitar Kota Izumisano. Lahan-lahan pertanian itu berpadu dengan beberapa kompleks landing house berukuran mungil milik warga. Di beberapa titik mulai terlihat beberapa apartemen berukuran sedang. Sedangkan sungai-sungai kering tampak rapi dengan pagar pembatas di tepinya.

Hamparan lahan pertanian dan perumahan.

Dalam tiga puluh menit, kereta mulai memasuki kawasan urban yang padat bangunan, di Distrik Kota Nishi tepatnya. Tak tampak lagi lahan pertanian disana. Pemandangan hanya berisi perumahan, apartemen, perkantoran serta pusat-pusat kesehatan dan perbelanjaan.

Kali ini aku sendiri tak akan menuntaskan perjalanan hingga stop point terakhir yaitu Stasiun Namba. Aku akan berhenti di Stasiun Shin-Imamiya, berselang satu stasiun sebelum tiba di Stasiun Namba.

Aku turun di Stasiun Shin-Imamiya pada menit ke lima puluh dari perjalanan kereta JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service. Aku segera keluar meninggalkan Stasiun Shin-Imamiya di Abiko-suji Avenue. Kemudian berbelok ke kanan, menuju ke selatan untuk menelusuri gang selebar lima meter. Setelah berjalan sejauh tiga ratus meter aku tiba di Hotel Kaga.

Sepanjang berjalan menuju Hotel Kaga, aku melangkah dengan sangat percaya diri tanpa perlu bertanya kepada siapapun tentang letak hotel karena aku sangat memahami rute menuju kesana dari peta yang kubawa.

Aku memasuki Hotel Kaga yang berwarna dominan merah bata. Disambut oleh staff resepsionis pria yang ramah. Tetapi masih terlalu pagi untuk bisa melakukan check-in. Aku memang hanya bermaksud untuk menitip backpack saja dan segera mengeksplorasi Osaka hingga malam.

Tetapi untuk mempercepat proses check-in nanti, aku memutuskan untuk membayar di awal. Setelah menerima tanda bayar dan menaruh backpack di ruang respsionis, akhirnya aku pergi meninggalkan hotel seharga 1.800 Yen (Rp. 256.000) per malam itu dan langsung beranjak menuju Osaka Castle.

Kisah Berikutnya—->