Puro Mangkunegaran: Simbol Perlawanan Atas Kesewenangan

<—-Kisah Sebelumnya

Puro Mangkunageran.

Cerah sekali sore itu. Sudah lewat pukul lima tetapi langit masih saja bercahaya. Aku masih duduk pada sebuah kursi di sisi dalam gerbang depan Pasar Triwindu dan menikmati sajian gratis Jenang Suro.  Solo memang sedang menyambut Tahun Baru Islam yang akan datang esok hari, sehingga Paguyuban Pedangang Pasar Triwindu secara sukarela membagikan makanan khas itu ke seluruh pengunjung.

Pasar Triwindu sendiri, pada masa lalunya berjuluk Pasar Windujenar. Sebuah pasar barang seni dan barang antik yang dibangun oleh Kanjeng Gusti Pangeran Adipati Arya (KGPAA) Mangkunegara VII untuk memperingati dua puluh empat tahun masa pemerintahannya. Oleh karenanya pasar ini terletak tak jauh dari istana.

Oleh karena sejarah itulah, kunjungan ke Pasar Trwindu tak akan pernah sempurna jika tak mengunjungi istana raja sang pembuat pasar itu. Bahkan setelah perjalanan surveyku ini selesai, aku menempatkan Pura Mangkunegaran dan Pasar Triwindu sebagai paket destinasi yang sangat dianjurkan untuk dikunjungi oleh selurh peserta Marketing Conference.

Tak lama setelah selesai menyantap Jenang  Suro yang bertabur Sambal Tumpang khas jawa, aku pun meninggalkan Pasar Triwindu, melewati pelataran depannya yang luas dan kembali menatap bangunan pasar yang sangat khas dan klasik sebelum berucap sampai jumpa lagi.

Aku berjalan perlahan menyusuri  trotoar di sepanjang Jalan Diponegoro, menuju ke utara sejauh tiga ratus lima puluh meter untuk mengunjungi Pura Mangkunegaran. Menginjakkan kaki di ujung pertigaan, maka aku telah sampai di seberang gerbang istana kenamaan itu. Padatnya arus lalu lintas membuatku sedikit berjibaku menyeberangi Jalan Ronggowarsito yang menerapkan sistem satu arah dan melingkari kompleks istana tersebut.

Sementara di salah satu sudut pertigaan menyuguhkan pemandangan penuh keramaian para pengunjung sebuah hotel berpadu restoran berjuluk Omah Sinten Heritage.Setelah kuselidik, nantinya aku baru tahu bahwa restoran itu memang menjadi salah satu tempat favorit bagi kaum muda hingga pegawai kantoran untuk berhangout ria menyambut hari libur nasional esok hari.

Berhasil menyeberangi Jalan Ronggowarsito, aku bergegas menuju pintu gerbang istana melewati jalur setapak sepanjang seratus lima puluh meter dengan pelataran sangat luas di kiri-kanannya. Sebelum benar-benar tiba di gerbang, sebuah bangunan Museum Puro Mangkunegaran meyambutku di sisi kiri gerbang. Museum itu tampak sepi dan tanpa penjaga, membuatku tak bisa memastikan apakah museum tersebut masih menerima tamu untuk berkunjung atau tidak.

Museum Puro Mangkunegaran.
Gerbang istana.

Begitu pula dengan gerbang tinggi istana, pagar besi itu pun tertutup rapat tanpa penjaga. Jelas menandakan bahwa istana tak menerima tamu sore itu. Istana memang ditutup untuk pengunjung tepat pukul lima sore.

Aku hanya bisa menikmati keanggunan istana dari kejauhan dan menatap sekelilingnya dengan kagum. Tapi aku tak pernah kecewa, aku sudah sangat bersyukur bisa mengunjunginya. Inilah istana yang menjadi simbol kekuasaan Kota Solo tempoe doeloe.

Puro Mangkunegaran juga menjadi lambang perlawanan seorang bangsawan atas kekuasaaan VOC dan kesewenangan lokal yang diterapkan Pakubuwono II sebagai pemimpin tertinggi Kasunanan Surakarta. Sebuah perlawanan sengit yang membuahkan kemenangan gilang-gemilang dari seorang Raden Mas Said kala itu.

Petulanganku di Puro Mangkunegaran harus segera diusaikan karena aku tak bisa berbuat apapun di depan gerbang raksasa itu. Aku memutuskan undur diri dan menuju ke destinasi berikutnya yang sudah tertuang dalam daftar panjang surveyku.

Mari kita pergi dari sini !

Kisah Selanjutnya—->

Jongke Market: Food Souvenir Center at the Banks of Solo River

<—-Previous Story

Toko Bu Cokro inside.

The silence of Mangkunegaran Palace set my steps to leave one of power entities of kings era in Java Island. Towards half past six in the afternoon, I continued a survey agenda to Laweyan area.

An online taxi which I ordered would slowly penetrate traffic jam around Keprabon area, i.e an area where Mangkunegaran Palace was sat. Slowly I headed west, crossing Honggowongso Street and completed by fulfilling a current along Dr. Rajiman Street.

After covering a distance of five kilometers and within a span of fifteen minutes, I was dropped off at the bank of Solo River, on east side to be precise. At this stage, at first I wanted to visit Kampung Batik Laweyan, but I canceled. I chose to would directed Marketing Conference participants to Kampung Batik Kauman because of its strategic location and on the route of Jaladara Tour Train.

I quickly thought to eliminate Kampung Batik Laweyan from the list of destinations and I chose a replacement destination, namely Jongke Market. This market would become a destination for hunting food souvenirs for all participants later.

In fact, there was nothing special in this twenty-eight year old market apart from prices which were offered by food souvenir sellers inside. Amazingly, I still found food souvenirs at a price of seven thousand Rupiah in this market.

I started my exploration in an area around Jongke Market by visiting the famous food souvenir outlet, i.e Toko Bu Cokro. This shop which was located right on the side of Dr. Rajiman Street was so striking because of large size of the shop to massive food souvenir displays. I myself got a recommendation for this place from one of my colleague who came from Solo.

Meanwhile, precisely on front opposite were row of food souvenir outlets with the largest stall called Erlangga Jaya. Some food souvenir such as ampyan, chicken fried claw and intip were quickly seen in this outlet. Meanwhile, the front yard which also had function as a parking area looked neat with pavling block.

The front of Toko Bu Cokro.
Food souvenir outlets near Jongke Market.
Food souvenir outlets near Jongke Market.

Meanwhile, I realized that Jongke Market itself has been closed since an hour ago. I was just trying to find out its location to get accurate information. I took my steps towards the west, passed Solo River and arrived within three hundred meters. A row of bicycle stalls could be clearly seen from road side. Meanwhile, at inside, there were rows of sweets, vegetables, groceries, meat and clothing stalls. The name of Jongke itself was also used by a village name which was located around market.

Meanwhile, in a series of Marketing Conference agendas, Jongke Market would be accompanied by other destinations in same category, namely Javenir which is located one kilometer on the western boundary of Solo City and Toko Abon Mesran Mistopawiro which is located in Jayengan area. So it was hoped that all participants would be spoiled by the existence of several options for hunting food souvenirs.

The afternoon slowly turned dark, while my itinerary still featured six places to visit. It didn’t matter if that places still open or have closed, I would visit it.

Let’s continued…..

Next Story—->

Mangkunegaran Palace: A Resistance Symbol to Arbitrariness

<—-Previous Story

Mangkunageran Palace.

Very sunny that afternoon. It was past five o’clock but the city’s sky was still shining. I was still sitting on a chair inside of Triwindu Market front gate and enjoying free dish of Jenang Suro*1. Solo was indeed welcoming the Islamic New Year which would come tomorrow, so Association of Triwindu Market Trader distributed this special food to all visitors.

Triwindu Market itself, in the past was called as Windujenar Market. An art and antique goods marketplace which was built by Kanjeng Gusti Pangeran Adipati Arya (KGPAA) Mangkunegara VII*2  to commemorate twenty-four years of his reign. Therefore this market was located not far from the palace.

Because of that history, a visitation to Triwindu Market will never be perfect if you don’t visit the palace from the king who built this market. Even after all my survey trip in Solo City was over, I put Mangkunegaran Palace and Triwindu Market as destination packages which were highly recommended for all Marketing Conference participants to visit.

Not long after I finished in eating Jenang Suro which was sprinkled with Javanese typical Sambal Tumpang, I left Triwindu Market, passed through its wide front yard and looked back to very distinctive and classic market building before saying good-bye.

I slowly walked along Diponegoro Street sidewalk, heading north for three hundred and fifty meters to visit Mangkunegaran Palace. Walking at the end of T-junction, then I arrived across  of palace gate. Heavy traffic flow made me struggling to cross Ronggowarsito Street which implemented a one-way system and circled palace complex.

While in one corner of the T-junction, there was a view of visitor crowds to a hotel which was combined with a restaurant, called Omah Sinten Heritage. After I investigated, later I found out that this restaurant had indeed become one of favorite places for young people to office employees to hangout to welcoming national holidays on tomorrow.

Successfully crossing Ronggowarsito Street, I rushed towards palace gate through a path along a hundred and fifty meters with a very wide yard on either side of it. Before actually arriving at the gate, a building of Puro Mangkunegaran Museum greeted me on left side of the gate. The museum looked deserted and without guards, so I couldn’t be sure whether the museum was still accepting visitors to visit or not.

Puro Mangkunegaran Museum.
Palace gate.

Likewise with the palace high gate, its iron fence was tightly closed without guards. It clearly indicated that the palace didn’t receive guests that afternoon. The palace was indeed closed for visitors at exactly five o’clock in the afternoon.

I could only enjoy the elegance of Mangkunegaran Palace from a distance and stare around in awe. But I’ve never been disappointed, I was already very grateful to be able to visit it. This was the palace which is a symbol of the power of Solo City in the past

Mangkunegaran Palace also became a resistance symbol from an aristocrat against VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) power and local arbitrariness which was applied by Pakubuwono II as a supreme leader of Surakarta Sunanate. A fierce resistance which resulted in a brilliant victory from Raden Mas Said at that time.

My visitation at Mangkunegaran Palace had to be rushed to stop because I couldn’t do anything in front of its giant gate. I decided to finish this visitation and headed to next destination which was included in a long list of my survey.

Let’s get out of here!

*1: Jenang Suro is porridge which is made from rice which was cooked with various traditional herbs and spices such as coconut milk, lemongrass and bay leaves so that it tastes more savory than usual porridge. This porridge is a symbol of gratitude to God and is usually served to welcome 1 Muharram or Islamic New Year.

*2: Kanjeng Gusti Pangeran Adipati Arya (KGPAA) Mangkunegara is a title for the ruler of Mangkunegaran region.

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