Kumari

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It was King Prithvi Narayan Shah who first in using the two-triangular flag when he succeeded in unifying all kingdoms in Nepal on 1768. Yes, two triangles on the Nepalese national flag represent two great dynasties which once existed in the Land of a Thousand Gods, namely the Shah Dynasty and the Rana Dynasty.

“Please, come!….Please, come!” a man told me to entering a shiny red brick building. European tourists and their tour guides who seem to know the reason why they come to this place seem to flock to entering the gate. I who haven’t saved any information, just rely on that man’s humble smile. A moment later I was inside.

The man in a gray jacket who was meritorious to brought me to the Goddess.

Another man inside greeted me, “Welcome to Kumari Ghar…The house of Kumari”. Kumari is a living goddess in Hindu and even Buddhist mythology. Kumari itself is a Sanskrit term which means “Princess”. Kumari is chosen by the head of Pandita and is considered the reincarnation of Goddess Taleju, the Goddess of Guardians of the City.

Chop up buffalo meat for tomorrow’s offering ceremony.

I kept eavesdropping on tour guide’s explanation to European travelers. It was said that the last king Malla often met in secret with Goddess Taleju who was asked to protect the kingdom. His wife who was suspicious, on a night followed the King when he was about to meet the Goddess. Suddenly the Goddess was angry because her whereabouts was revealed. But the Goddess was still kind enough to remain willing to protect the kingdom, but with one requirement, i.e by providing a girl as a reincarnation of her. Well, this girl was what I was going to see this time.

All eyes were on three black windows on top floor of Kumari Ghar. From there, Kumari will be displayed in a flash. The burly men seemed to be starting to spread out in all corners and their eyes were unblinking at us. Their faces swept across to all tourists in courtyard, they were careful to not to let any video highlights or camera captures pointed towards Kumari when it was shown later.

The time came, everyone was silent as the window slowly opened. Kumari hadn’t come out yet, I didn’t blink for fearing of losing her appearance. Burly men below loudly shouted to other above, I didn’t know what they was reporting. Perhap condition were ready for Kumari to appeared in the window.

Two women rechecked condition below from above. A moment later, they gave a code to inside. An instant later, a beautiful girl who dressed in all red, crowned with gold sheets with a third eye on her forehead appeared in the window opening. Just a moment, less than half a minute.

“Wooouwww“, a word which came out from all visitors and then they were busy whispering to their friends in their language. While I was still looking at the window which had been closed since earlier with a smile. It was crazy to be able to meet a goddess who was actually alive.

Following the belief, Kumari will finish being the reincarnation of Goddess Taleju when she is menstruating and will be replaced by a new Kumari. Kumari will be selected from three years old with very strict requirements such as no scars, no fear from masked men who dancing on the blood of slaughtered buffalo, she willn’t step on the ground as long as become Kumari and only come out just once a year, i.e in Bhoto Jatra ceremony, the festival to celebrating rainy season as well as harvest season.

This Nepali culture is magical….It’s amazing.

Adalah Raja Prithvi Narayan Shah yang pertama kali menggunakan bendera dua segitiga ketika berhasil mempersatukan semua kerajaan di Nepal pada 1768. Ya, dua segitiga pada bendera nasional Nepal itu melambangkan dua dinasti besar yang pernah ada di Negeri Seribu Dewa yaitu Dinasti Shah dan Dinasti Rana.

“Please, come!….Please, come!” seorang pria menyuruhku memasuki sebuah bangunan mengkilat merah bata. Para turis Eropa beserta tour guidenya yang sepertinya telah tahu alasan mengapa mendatangi tempat ini tampak berbondong memasuki gerbang. Aku yang belum menyimpan informasi apapun, hanya mengandalkan senyuman bersahaja dari pria itu. Sebentar kemudian aku sudah di dalam.

Pria berjaket abu-abu yang berjasa menemukanku pada seorang Dewi.

Pria lain di dalam menyambutku, “Welcome to Kumari Ghar…The house of Kumari”. Kumari adalah Dewa hidup dalam mitologi Hindu bahkan Buddha. Kumari sendiri adalah istilah Sansekerta yang berarti “Putri (princess)”. Kumari dipilih oleh kepala Pandita dan dianggap sebagai reinkarnasi dari Dewi Taleju, Sang Dewi Penjaga Kota.

Mencincang daging kerbau untuk persembahan esok hari.

Aku terus menguping penjelasan tour guide kepada para pelancong Eropa itu. Konon raja terakhir Malla sering bertemu secara rahasia dengan Dewi Taleju yang diminta untuk melindungi kerajaan. Istrinya yang curiga, pada suatu malam membututi sang Raja ketika hendak bertemu Sang Dewi. Sontak Sang Dewi murka karena keberadaannya terungkap. Tetapi Sang Dewi masih berbaik hati untuk tetap bersedia melindungi kerajaan, tetapi dengan satu syarat yaitu disediakannya seorang gadis sebagai reinkarnasi darinya. Nah, gadis inilah yang akan kulihat kali ini.

Salah satu sisi Kumari Ghar yang telah berusia 263 tahun.

Semua mata mengarah pada tiga jendela hitam di lantai teratas Kumari Ghar. Dari situlah Kumari akan dipertontonkan secara kilat. Para lelaki tegap tampak mulai menyebar ke segala sudut dan matanya tak berkedip mengawasi kami. Wajah mereka menyapu suluruh turis di pelataran, mereka berjaga jangan sampai ada sorotan video atau tangkapan kamera yang mengarah ke Kumari saat dipertontonkan nanti.

Saatnya tiba, semua hening melihat jendela yang perlahan dibuka. Kumari belum juga keluar, aku tak berkedip karena khawatir kehilangan penampakannya yang akan singkat. Para pengawas di bawah berteriak lantang kepada pengawas di atas, entah apa yang dilaporkannya. Mungkin kondisi sudah siap untuk Kumari muncul di jendela.

Dua perempuan mengecek kembali kondisi di bawah dari atas. Sewaktu kemudian, mereka memberikan kode ke arah dalam. Sekejap kemudian, gadis cantik berbusana serba merah, bermahkota lembaran emas dengan mata ketiga di keningnya muncul di lubang jendela. Hanya sebentar, tak sampai setengah menit.

“Wooouwww”, ucapan seragam yang terlontar dari para pelancong dan kemudian meraka sibuk berbisik dengan temannya masing dengan bahasa bangsanya. Sementara aku masih saja memandangi jendela yang sudah tertutup sejak tadi sambil tersenyum. Gila rasanya bisa bertemu dengan seorang Dewi yang benar-benar hidup…..Hahaha.

Mengikuti kepercayaan, Kumari akan selesai menjadi reinkarnasi Dewi Taleju ketika mengalami menstruasi dan akan digantikan oleh Kumari baru. Kumari akan dipilih sejak berusia tiga tahun dengan persyaratan yang sangat ketat seperti tidak boleh ada bekas luka, tidak takut pada pria bertopeng yang menari di atas darah kerbau yang disembelih, tidak akan menginjak tanah selama menjadi Kumari dan hanya keluar sekali setahun dalam acara acara Bhoto Jatra yaitu festival perayaan musum hujan sekaligus panen.

Magis ya budaya Nepal ini….Luar biasa.

Tag: Kumari

The Beauty of the Living Goddess in Kumari Ghar

Kecantikan Dewi Hidup di Kumari Ghar