Peeking a Devi’s Fall at Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave

<—-Previous Story

Horn sound made me see to left when I just walked out of a noodle food stall in Tashiling. Yes, that shrill sound came from Mr. Tirtha’s taxi which I never knew since when it had been parked under a tree right out of Tashiling area.

I think we don’t need to go to Devi’s Fall because its water discharge is low now. So you can see the beauty of Devi’s Fall from a cave”, said Mr. Tirtha while turning steering wheel to left and entered Shital Path Street. I just agreed with that information.

Devi’s Fall often had been nicknamed as David’s Fall since decades ago when a Swiss drowned in current at this waterfall.

OK …. We are arriving“, joked Mr. Tirtha while snapping her fingers when he had just turned right following Siddhartha Rajmag’s Street flow.

I started to enter the gate of Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave, which at its top stood the dashing Lord Shiva holding his trident in cross-legged position. Through it, then walking in tarpaulin-covered entrance route with a row of souvenir stalls on either side. Then I was greeted by the presence of Lord Vishnu statue which sleeping next to the main building.

Description: D:BC ReportsFoto and VideoGo Abroad15. NepalIMG_20180101_165707863_HDR.jpg
Main balcony.

It was time to head to a concrete balcony to bought a ticket for 100 Rupee. Before descending the stairs to cave mouth, for a moment I paid attention to details of staircase walls which were regularly spaced displaying Gods carvings which might implicitly feature a certain stories.

Stairs to cave mouth.

Temperature difference had begun to be felt on first foothold at cave mouth. Now I was ready to explore the longest cave in Nepal.

Cow Shed“, I was stunned to see a cow shed with blue iron fence. I asked a local person who was talking in front of it. He briefly said that this cow protected Lord Shiva. I nodded as if I understood.

Going down the stairs through right side of cage I felt my breath getting heavier. The damp dark cramped space made it so. Then I saw a bright light again at a temple which dedicated to glorifying Lord Shiva.

It was said that this cave was found in 16th century with cave mouth closed by grass. Local people named this cave as Bhalu Dulo. When found, there were already carvings of several Hindu Gods such as Mahadev, Parvati, Nageshwor and Saraswati.

Now stairs to cave bottom were getting sharper and slippery. Water continued to drip from stalactites which were spread evenly on cave roof. The lack of lighting made my downward journey very slow.

Be careful, ok…..

Finally, the appearance of cave bottom was amazing. A very large room was in basement. Then on a side appeared a natural gap which was the only hole to enjoy the beauty of Devi’s Fall.

Description: D:BC ReportsFoto and VideoGo Abroad15. NepalIMG_20180101_170803449_HDR.jpg
That was Devi’s Fall…. Wasn’t that cool ?.

Check out the situation of Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave here:

God’s extraordinary work of nature….

Goddess Bhagwati’s Aura at Bindhyabasini Temple

<—-Previous Story

After my eyes enjoyed Himalayas view. Two hours in Sarangkot and witnessing natural drama which began when first rays of dawn shone and then noon came.

You may completely read my adventures in Sarangkot in a story which I wrote earlier.


Passing a Morning and Getting a Sunrise in Sarangkot, Nepal

I said goodbye to Mrs. Celesse, a Belgian woman who still had a beautiful face. Maybe she was a photo model when she was young. Mrs. Calesse, who had shoulder-blonde hair, using a red jacket and a white scarf, still chose to pretty sitting in Sarangkot fot watching Phewa Lake expanse which shining blue when hit by the sun.

Parking area at the bottom of hill.

Meanwhile, at the botton of hill, precisely in a car park, I had been waiting by three other backpackers who had been heading to this place since early morning with me.

—- **** —-

Me: “So, we returned to the hotel for breakfast and taking a bath“, I said on taxi front seat to Mr. Tirtha-our taxi driver-.

Mr. Tirtha: “Sure, but before it, can I take you to two places which are located along with our way back? “, His smile held mystery and surprise.

Me: “Oh, yeah …. Is it one of International Mountain Museum, Tashi Ling, Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave or Shanti Stupa?“, I think we were still time there after breakfast.

Mr. Tirtha: “Oh No, Hahaha….These were different places…. Two places were close together, Sir“, he deliberately made me curious.

Me: “Oh yeah….Nice to hear that. How about you, bothers?“, I asked to other backpacker’s in the backseat asking for their approval. Finally we agreed to go to those place.


Main temple Building.

Heading east, the taxi slowly crept down Sarangkot Street. Riding it for 20 minutes, I arrived at a T-junction. I found several school buses which looked like have yellow colour all over the world, then the journey continued with passing the crowd of cyclists and motorbikes. The taxi was slowly uncovering their way until finally it was parked on the edge of pavement.

The trident given by Lord Shiva to Goddess Bhagwati.

Visitors were free of charge when they took turns entering temple area through stairs on a side of courtyard. Having finished climbing the stairs, the large temple courtyard was in front. Some congregants began queuing to perform rituals at a white stupa on the left, while others made offerings at a cow statue which overlooking a temple building. And right in the center of courtyard stood a main building with three levels of roof which were no less crowded with congregation. It was in this building which the statue of Goddess Bhagwati was located.

A monument in courtyard.

Goddess Bhagwati herself was believed to be the Protector of Pokhara who was purified in the temple. Congregations regularly made offerings to Goddess by slaughtering various livestock. And Pokhara people should be grateful that their king Siddhi Narayan Shah contributed to building this temple in the 17th century.

Temperature was starting to warm up to spoil anyone to linger sitting on the edge of courtyard with 900 meters high above sea level. Then while breathing the fresh air, I enjoyed residential areas view with the blue background of Himalayas.


See the situation at Bindhyabasini Temple here:

Bindhyabasini Temple, Pokhara – YouTube

Let’s go to the next place …. Follow me, OK!

Next Story—->

7 Tourist Attractions in Pokhara

<—-Previous Story

Visiting Nepal is synonymous with visiting the Himalayas. And all travelers know that the Himalayan gate is in Pokhara. It has been a long time since this city, nicknamed as “Gem of Himalaya”, has opened itself to show its beauty around the world.

This had put Pokhara on the top list in my visitation to South Asia region. Not Kathmandu, but Nepal’s second largest city which is located in northwest valley of Pokhara, this was what made me hurry for a moment to leave the capital city of Nepal even though it had only been arrive a day before.

Out of context as a solo-male traveler, I firmly believe that Pokhara is one of the best solo travel destinations for female travelers also.

Here were seven tourist attractions which I visited in Pokhara:

1 Sarangkot.

Being the closest vantage point to enjoy the Himalayas had placed Sarangkot as a special place to visit for travelers who didn’t have much time to hike that famous mountains.

Early arriving in the morning and sat at the viewpoint ahead of dawn. Enjoying colors gradation which hit ice layer at Machhapuchhare peak. Undoubtedly the golden color would fascinate you.

2. Bindhyabasini Temple

Descending from Sarangkot with its background of iconic Phewa Lake, I immediately headed to a Hindu temple where the Goddess Bhagwati worshiped, which was 7 km east of Sarangkot. Exactly at 08:14 hours. the temple was already so busy with visitors and also congregants who had come to pray.

Temple location which was on a hill made me freely gaze in observing dense residential housing with Himalayas background which turn blue with white ice at its peak.

3. Old Bazaar/Purano Bazaar

Now I was moving about 2 km southward down the road to a commercial place which dated back to the 18th century. The market was dominated by Newar architecture with red brick motifs with a lane which was only enough for two vehicles passing each other.

9:15 am….It was too early for Pokhara people to trade. As far as the eye could see, my memory was spoiled with market streets view which were flanked by classic buildings on either side of road, then at the end of road, there were dammed with Himalayas face whose timeless beauty.

Because the market was so quiet, no one bothered me in enjoying Jalebi in the middle of street.

4. International Mountain Museum

After returning to hotel for breakfast. Then, I continued visiting a museum which was dedicated to Himalayan climbers who never again safely descended.

By paying 450 Rupee, I was treated to a gallery which displayed a photos series of snowy peaks around the world which was followed by the peculiarities of various ethnic Nepalese inhabitants, then closed with several heroic stories of Himalayan climbers.

5. Tashiling Tibetan Refugee Camp.

For those who haven’t had a chance to visiting Tibet, then feel its nuance by visiting Tibetan people in Tashiling. This village was inhabited by Tibetan refugees who migrated because of political intrigue.

They made a living by trading in their new home. Many travelers shopped for souvenirs at this place. I myself took time to lunch with a bowl of noodles for 150 Rupee at one of their food stall.

6. Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave.

Located near from Tashiling, the cave which was located right on a side of Siddhartha Rajmarg road, its ticket fare about 100 Rupee. Circling down the stairs in red main building, I came to the mouth of this cave. Continuing along the curves of narrow humid alleys which lead to the main cave room with a view of swift waterfall which was peeking out from longitudinal slit on a side….Very beautiful.

7. World Peace Pagoda

Late in the afternoon, I arrived at my final destination. By another name, Shanti Stupa, this pure white pagoda was a painstaking climb on Anadu Hill. A Japanese heritage site of worship symbolized peace which uphold silence. Not allowing a slightest noise was a norm which must be obeyed during a visitation.

A natural decoration in the form of Himalayas with the ground of Phewa Lake in a view side became even more perfect with appearance of Pokhara City which was seen from above.

So, if you visit Pokhara, make sure to visit these cool places.

Next Story—->

Mengintip Devi’s Fall di Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave

Bunyi klakson membuatku menoleh ke kiri ketika baru saja beranjak keluar dari sebuah kedai mie di Tashiling. Ya, suara cempreng itu berasal dari taksi Mr. Tirtha yang entah sejak kapan sudah terparkir di bawah sebuah pohon tepat di arah keluar area Tashiling.

I think we don’t need to go to Devi’s Fall because its water debit is low now. So you can see the beauty of Devi’s Fall from the cave”, tutur Mr. Tirtha sembari memutar setirnya ke kiri memasuki jalan Shital Path. Aku mengiyakan saja informasi itu.

Devi’s Fall sering dijuluk David’s Fall sejak berpuluh-puluh tahun lalu ketika seorang Swiss tenggelam termakan arus di air terjun ini.

OK….We are arriving”, seloroh Mr. Tirtha sambil menjentikkan jari ketika baru saja berbelok ke kanan mengikuti arus jalanan Siddhartha Rajmag.

Aku mulai memasuki gapura Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave yang di puncaknya didudukkan Dewa Siwa yang gagah bersila menggenggam trisula. Melewatinya, untuk kemudian menelusuri jalur masuk beratap terpal dengan deretan kios souvenir di kiri-kanan. Kemudian aku disambut dengan kehadiran patung Dewa Wisnu yang tertidur di sebelah bangunan utama.

Description: D:\BC Reports\Foto and Video\Go Abroad\15. Nepal\IMG_20180101_165707863_HDR.jpg
Balkon utama.

Saatnya menuju ke bagian balkon beton untuk membeli selembar tiket seharga Rp. 13.500. Sebelum menuruni tangga menuju mulut goa, sejenak aku memperhatikan detail dinding tangga yang dengan jarak teratur menampilkan pahatan Dewa-Dewi yang mungkin secara implisit menampilkan sebuah lakon tertentu.

Tangga menuju mulut goa.

Perbedaan suhu sudah mulai terasa pada pijakan pertama di mulut goa. Kini aku bersiap menelusuri goa terpanjang di Nepal.

Cow Shed”, aku tertegun memperhatikan sebuah kandang sapi berpagar besi biru. Bertanyalah aku kepada orang lokal yang sedang berbincang di depannya. Katanya singkat bahwa sapi ini melindungi Dewa Siwa. Aku mengangguk seakan faham.

Menuruni tangga melalui sisi kanan kandang aku merasa tarikan nafas semakin berat. Ruang sempit gelap lembab membuatnya demikian. Kemudian cahaya terang kembali kujumpai pada sebuah kuil yang didedikasikan untuk memuliakan Dewa Siwa.

Description: D:\BC Reports\Foto and Video\Go Abroad\15. Nepal\IMG_20180101_170114903_HDR.jpg
Dasar Donny….Kamu mencuri gambar….Kan “No Camera”….Parah.

Konon goa ini ditemukan pada abad ke-16 dengan kondisi mulut goa tertutup rerumputan. Orang lokal menamai goa ini Bhalu Dulo. Ketika ditemukan, sudah terdapat ukiran beberapa Dewa Dewi Hindu seperti Mahadev, Parvati, Nageshwor dan Saraswati.

Kini tangga menuju ka dasar goa semakin tajam dan licin. Air terus menetes dari stalagtit yang terhampar merata di atap goa. Sedikitnya lampu penerangan membuat perjalanan ke bawah menjadi sangat pelan.

Hati-hati ya…..

Akhirnya penampakan dasar goa terpampang menakjubkan. Ruangan yang sangat luas berada di bawah tanah. Kemudian di salah satu sisi tertampil sebuah celah alami yang menjadi satu-satunya lubang untuk menikmati keindahan Devi’s Fall.

Description: D:\BC Reports\Foto and Video\Go Abroad\15. Nepal\IMG_20180101_170803449_HDR.jpg
Itu Devi’s Fall….Keren kan ya?.

Lihat situasi Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave disini:

Karya alam milik Tuhan yang luar biasa….

Aura Dewi Bhagwati di Bindhyabasini Temple

Usai sudah mata telanjangku menikmati pemandangan Himalaya yang memukau. Dua jam berada di Sarangkot dan menyaksikan drama alam yang bermula saat sinar fajar pertama memancar hingga kemudian pergi tersingkap siang.

Kamu boleh membaca seksama petualanganku di Sarangkot pada kisah yang telah lebih dahulu kutulis.  


Menembus Pagi Mejemput Fajar di Sarangkot, Nepal

Aku berpamitan pada Nyonya Celesse, perempuan Belgia yang masih saja berbekas paras ayunya. Mungkin dia berprofesi sebagai foto model semasa muda. Nyonya Calesse yang berambut pirang sepundak, berjaket merah dengan syal putih masih memilih duduk manis di Sarangkot menyaksikan hamparan Phewa Lake yang biru mengkilat dihantam sinar surya.

Parkiran di bawah bukit.

Sementara di kaki bukit, tepatnya di parkiran mobil, telah menunggu 3 backpacker lain yang sejak pagi buta menuju ke tempat ini bersamaku.


Aku: ” So, we returned to the hotel for breakfast and taking a bath”, ucapku di bangku depan pada Mr. Tirtha si Pengemudi taxi.

Mr. Tirtha: “Sure, but before it, can I take you to two places which are located along with our way back? ”, senyumnya menyimpan misteri dan kejutan.

Aku: “Oh, yeah….Is it one of International Mountain Museum, Tashi Ling, Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave or Shanti Stupa?”, kufikir masih ada waktu kesana setelah sarapan.

Mr. Tirtha: “Oh No, Hahaha….That are different places …. 2 places are close together, sir”, sengaja membuat penasaran.

Aku: “Oh yeah….Nice to hear that. How about you, friend?“, tanyaku ke trio backpacker di jok belakang meminta persetujuan.

Akhirnya kami sepakat menuju ke tempat yang dimaksud.


Bangunan utama kuil.

Menuju timur, taksi merangsek pelan menyusuri Sarangkot Road. Menempuhnya selama 20 menit, aku tiba di sebuah pertigaan. Berpapasan dengan bus sekolah yang sepertinya seragam berwarna kuning di seluruh benua, kemudian perjalanan berlanjut  dengan menyibak pelan kerumunan pesepeda dan pemotor hingga akhirnya taksi terparkir di sebuah tepian tanah trotoar.

Trisula pemberian Dewa Siwa untuk Dewi Bhagwati.

Pelawat tak dipungut biaya apapun ketika bergantian memasuki area kuil melalui tangga di salah satu sisi turap. Selesai menaiki tangga, pelataran kuil yang luas terpampang di depan. Beberapa jemaat mulai mengantri untuk beritual ke stupa putih di sebelah kiri, sementara yang lain memberikan sesajen di sebuah patung sapi yang menghadap ke sebuah bangunan kuil. Dan tepat di pusat pelataran berdiri bangunan utama dengan tiga tingkat atap yang tak kalah ramai dengan jemaat. Di bangunan inilah patung Dewi Bhagwati berada.

Sebuah tugu di pelataran.

Dewi Bhagwati sendiri dipercaya sebagai Pelindung Pokhara yang disucikan dalam kuil. Jemaat secara rutin memberikan persembahan kepada Sang Dewi dengan menyembelih berbagai hewan ternak. Dan rakyat Pokhara perlu berterimakasih karena raja mereka Siddhi Narayan Shah telah berjasa membangun kuil ini pada abad ke-17.

Suhu yang mulai menghangat memanjakan siapa saja untuk berlama-lama duduk di pinggiran turap berketinggian 900 meter diatas permukaan laut. Lalu sembari menghirup udara segar, aku menikmati perumahan penduduk berlatar biru Himalaya.


Lihat situasi di Bindhyabasini Temple disini:

Ayo kita ketempat berikutnya….Ikuti aku, ya!

7 Destinasi Wisata di Pokhara

Mengunjungi Nepal identik dengan mengunjungi Himalaya. Dan seluruh pelancong tahu bahwa gerbang Himalaya itu ada di Pokhara. Sudah lama kota berjuluk “Permata Himalaya” ini membuka diri untuk mempertontonkan keelokannya ke penjuru dunia.

Hal inilah yang menempatkan Pokhara menjadi top list dalam kunjunganku di kawasan Asia Selatan. Bukan Kathmandu, tapi kota terbesar kedua Nepal yang terletak di barat laut lembah Pokhara inilah yang membuatku bergegas sejenak meninggalkan ibukota Nepal walaupun baru sehari tiba.

Berikut tujuh destinasi wisata yang kukunjungi di Pokhara:

1 Sarangkot.

Menjadi titik pandang terdekat untuk menikmati pegunungan Himalaya menempatkan Sarangkot sebagai gtempat istimewa untuk dikunjungi para pelancong yang tak memiliki banyak waktu untuk mendaki pegunungan tersohor itu.

Datanglah di awal pagi  dan duduklah di viewpoint mendahului fajar. Nikmati gradasi warna yang menyiram lapisan es di puncak Machhapuchhare. Niscaya warna keemasannya akan membuatmu terpesona.

2. Bindhyabasini Temple

Menuruni Sarangkot berlatar Phewa Lake yang ikonik, aku segera menuju ke sebuah kuil Hindu tempat pemujaan Dewi Bhagwati yang terletak 7 km di sebelah timur Sarangkot. Tepat jam 08:14 kuil sudah begitu ramai dengan lalu lalang pelawat dan juga jemaat yang datang untuk bersembahyang.

Letak kuil yang berada di sebuah bukit membuatku dengan leluasa memandangi rapatnya perumahan penduduk yang berlatar pegunungan Himalaya yang membiru dengan warna putih di puncaknya.

3. Old Bazaar/Purano Bazaar

Kini aku bergerak 2 km ke arah selatan menuruni jalanan menuju sebuah tempat perniagaan yang sudah ada sejak abad ke-18. Pasar dengan dominasi arsitekur Newar bermotif bata merah dengan belahan jalur yang hanya cukup bagi dua kendaraan yang saling berpapasan.

Pukul 09:15…Masih terlalu pagi buat masyarakat Pokhara untuk berdagang. Sejauh mata memandang, memoriku dimanjakan dengan pemandangan jalanan pasar yang dihapit oleh bangunan klasik di kiri- kanan kemudia di ujung jalan sana dibendung dengan wajah Himalaya yang keelokannya abadi.

Saking lengangnya pasar, menikmati Jalebi di tengah jalanan pasar pun tak ada yang mengganggu.

4. International Mountain Museum

Sekembali dari hotel untuk menyantap sarapan. Kemudian, aku melanjutkan bertamu ke sebuah museum yang didedikasikan bagi para pendaki Himalaya yang tak pernah lagi turun dengan selamat.

Dengan membayar Rp. 55.000, aku disuguhi galeri yang menampilkan sederet foto puncak bersalju di seantero dunia disusul dengan kekhasan berbagai etnis penghuni Nepal, kemudian ditutup dengan beberapa kisah heroik para pendaki Himalaya.

5. Tashiling Tibetan Refugee Camp.

Bagi yang belum sempat mengunjugi Tibet, maka rasakan nuansanya dengan mengunjungi para Tibetan di Tashiling. Perkampungan ini ditinggali oleh pengungsi Tibet yang bermigrasi karena intrik politik.

Mereka menyambung hidup dengan cara berdagang di tempat tinggalnya yang baru. Banyak para pelancong yang berbelanja souvenir di tempat ini. Aku sendiri menyempatkan menyantap makan siang dengan menu semangkuk mie seharga Rp. 20.000 di salah satu kedai makan milik mereka.

6. Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave.

Berjarak selemparan batu dari Tashi Ling, goa yang terletak persis di tepian jalan Siddhartha Rajmarg ini berbiaya masuk Rp. 14.000. Melingkar menuruni tangga dengan bangunan utama berwarna merah, aku sampai pada mulut goa. Berlanjut menyusuri liukan lorong-lorong sempit nan lembab yang berujung pada ruangan utama gua dengan pemandangan derasnya air terjun yang terintip dari guratan celah memanjang di salah satu sisi….Indah sekali.

7. World Peace Pagoda

Menjelang sore, aku tiba di destinasi terakhirku. Dengan nama lain Shanti Stupa, pagoda putih bersih ini harus ditanjaki dengan susah payah di Bukit Anadu. Sebuag situs peribadatan peninggalan jepang perlambang perdamaian yang menjunjung kesunyian. Tak diperkenankan berisik sedikitpun adalah norma yang harus ditaati selama berkunjung.

Hiasan alam berupa Pegunungan Himalaya beralas Phewa Lake dalam satu sisi pandang menjadi semakin sempurna dengan penampakan kota Pokhara bak maket terlihat dari atas.

Jadi, jika kamu berkunjung ke Pokhara pastikan mengunjungi tempat-tempat keren ini ya.